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Dennis McClaren posted:You could have bought yourself a $4000 dollar ice cream cone that would have brought you more pleasure, and lasted longer. I have no idea what this means, so I'll assume that buying a $400 Saab would have resulted in ALL OF THE BAD THINGS™ happening.
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Apr 22, 2018 21:08
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I took it out of storage, changed the oil, and knocked the rust off of the rotors. It still works. Mostly.
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Apr 22, 2018 23:00
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I made my car's exhaust cry tear drops. Almost done 
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Apr 22, 2018 23:11
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Umm okay that's dope Edit: Is that an FB in the background? hattersmad fucked around with this message at 02:21 on Apr 23, 2018 |
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Apr 23, 2018 01:07
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I washed Winter off of it. I only use the pay and spray rinse over winter (no brush or anything) so it was barely even white anymore.
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Apr 23, 2018 02:10
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Scrubbed it's rear end, cleaned the inside, vacuumed, took some pictures and put it up for sale. EZ $$, hopefully.
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Apr 23, 2018 02:21
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hattersmad posted:Umm okay that's dope 
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Apr 23, 2018 02:50
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Okay this is not my ride but it rides behind my ride: Continued prepping my cargo trailer for an upcoming move. It's an 8.5x8x24 freight train of flimsy plywood wood and thin metal studs. My last cross-country move, two years ago, saw it maxed out at 14,000lbs. It worked well, but there were definitely some things I wanted to improve for this move:
Okay the first problem was really not that much of a problem, but I had an amazon gift card and wanted a power jack so I went for it. The thing I learned researching electric trailer jacks is that all of them, from every manufacturer, have basically an equal number of bad reviews saying it was DOA, or failed after a few months, or failed just after the warranty period. So with that in mind I decided to accept that the jack will fail within a year, and if it goes farther then great. Because I use a weight distributing hitch, I wanted enough lift capacity to get both my tongue weight and the back end of my truck up a ways and spent more than I probably will next time. Ol' cranky:  Removed and rusty:  Sanded, painted, power jacked. New jack and fancy bucket thing instead of my stack of old wood:  Because I recently replaced my motorcycle battery, I used the old one as the power source for this jack. Given that this trailer has the world's shortest a-frame, I have to mount the battery inside which means I need to figure out a solution for boxing and venting it. That will probably wait for next season and I'll just ride dirty in the meantime, disconnecting it between uses and keeping the battery on a tender in the garage/outside. The e-tracks were easy enough to reinstall, this time with larger diameter self-tapping metal screws than I used before. 12 or so of the 15 tracks held up fine, but at the aft end of the trailer I'd strung 2x4s between opposing tracks to make a large shelf, and the weight and moment were too much when hitting a big bump. The breakaway battery situation is the most ridiculous chintzy poo poo I have ever paid for. The big 7-way cable runs from the truck, down into a battery box containing the breakaway battery, and individual wires leave the box to go to the lights or whatever. I've never opened the box, because it is fastened with what I assumed were some weirdo Torx size between T15 and T20. In prepping for this trip, I discovered that they are actually 8-point double square truss head screws- ie, they are designed for a #2 square drive (like deck screws) but the head has two squares at 45 degrees to each other which makes it look a lot like a Torx. The box is mounted under the frame, so I undid all that and discovered that the battery is not even connected to anything in the 7-way cable. The battery is only connected to the breakaway switch and frame ground, meaning it doesn't recharge at all, it just sits in an inaccessible box shut tight with weird fuckin' screws and dies slowly every time you briefly unplug the cable to hook it up for towing. Let's fix that. I found this charge hookup on amazon for a whopping $5, cracked open the box, and tapped into the 12v wire to get some charge action going. Now every time I tow the battery will be recharged by the truck, and the little diode in that box will prevent any erroneous power flow back to the truck. Working on all of this while laying under that tiny a-frame, my square driver popped out of the drill I was using and fell down landing right on my loving front tooth. It didn't chip but it worried me.  The WD hitch I use is a Curt 17007. This design relies on two bolts clamping the hitch at a desired angle, but after crossing the country I found mine drooping slightly from the starting position. This meant unscrewing it, resetting the preload, and retorque on all the bolts. The pain of it was that I couldn't find any of my drivers or wrenches larger than 1" since most of my stuff is packed now, so I rebought a 1-1/16" and 1-1/8" wrench to get it sorted. Now that most of this is taken care of, I can start packing this thing full of my life. Ramp door face is not impressed. 
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Apr 23, 2018 03:16
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Put brakes on my MILs 4Runner, and my FILs (awd, supercharged) Previa. ... Actually, discovered halfway though the 4Runner job that despite realizing that the RF caliper was seized last weekend when he attempted this himself, and not removing the LF caliper at all, he only bought one caliper. Guess how many we needed? Lucky bastard, O'Reilly's had one in stock. Then found out that the rear brakes on his van were GRINDING LOUDLY and he had purchased pads only without even peeking at them. Yeah, as expected one of the rotors was trashed, and he boogered up a caliper bolt using a 12pt socket while I was busy. Cue a 30 minute drive to their place to steal a (hopefully usable) rotor from his old (non awd or supercharged, and badly leaking oil) Previa. Again, lucky bastard, the pad was a hair away from being metal to metal. But the reason I was busy while he boogered that bolt? Finally got around to asking my neighbor about her son's 96 Ford Ranger that has been parked for a couple months...and they said I could have it for $500! Kid says it didn't have any power. Went over with a jump box, cranked it right up. 4cyl, manual, extended cab XLT with sliding rear glass and locking tailgate. Gross of course, but I drove it up the road and it feels just like the 96 Ranger work truck I used to have. And the AC works! Parked it at my house, will exchange cash for title tomorrow.  Seat covers are in its near future... And figuring out what has been done to that poor center console.  But it has sliding rear glass and the AC works! For $500! 
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Apr 23, 2018 03:57
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:I have enough in my collection, thank you. But that one has Ontario rust! You don't know what you're missing - even plastic will corrode on the shores of the Great Lakes. Think of the possibilities!
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Apr 23, 2018 03:58
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Just picked up a buffer ... Spent three hours yesterday deep cleaning my interior. It had been a while and it started smelling like dog. It's also that time of year that my dog started shedding so that's fun. Just bought a rear seat cover so it hopefully doesn't get as hairy. The 4runner finally looked and smelled good inside. It was a sunny day so it was nice to be outside and I didn't mind. Went to get a car wash and as I'm finishing up, clouds roll in and it starts pouring. I called it a day. Today I spent a few hours rinsing it off and waxing it. Using a buffer made it go quicker which was nice. Changed the oil and filter (thanks fumoto valve) without so much as a drop on my hands. Changed the cabin filter too. I still have suspension and cv axles to replace when my hand heals up. Also realizing I need new tires. It's so oddly relaxing to work on vehicles but it can be so exhausting.
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Apr 23, 2018 06:18
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ExecuDork posted:But that one has Ontario rust! You don't know what you're missing - even plastic will corrode on the shores of the Great Lakes. Think of the possibilities! This one has 4 years of Minnesota rust (with another 6 years of typical Texas paint + interior damage), that's enough for me.  Not looking forward to changing the sway bar end links... though that may give me an excuse to buy an electric rattlegun. Or hell, find a small compressor + tank and a real rattlegun.It doesn't look bad on the underside - except for bolts.  angryrobots posted:But the reason I was busy while he boogered that bolt? Finally got around to asking my neighbor about her son's 96 Ford Ranger that has been parked for a couple months...and they said I could have it for $500! Kid says it didn't have any power. Went over with a jump box, cranked it right up. 4cyl, manual, extended cab XLT with sliding rear glass and locking tailgate. Gross of course, but I drove it up the road and it feels just like the 96 Ranger work truck I used to have. And the AC works! Parked it at my house, will exchange cash for title tomorrow. Nice!
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Apr 23, 2018 06:39
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Would like to kick whoever last serviced my car right in the nuts. I attempted another go at oil change but they monkeyed the sump drain bolt on so hard that it won’t budge at all. Next attempt will be a ring spanner and if that doesn’t work I’ll get an adapter for my impact driver but I’ll have to travel for that cause they aren’t available up here at all
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Apr 23, 2018 07:49
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Dr. Garbanzo posted:Would like to kick whoever last serviced my car right in the nuts. I attempted another go at oil change but they monkeyed the sump drain bolt on so hard that it won’t budge at all. Next attempt will be a ring spanner and if that doesn’t work I’ll get an adapter for my impact driver but I’ll have to travel for that cause they aren’t available up here at all Would it be possible that a breaker bar would be an easier solution for you?
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Apr 23, 2018 15:13
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Dennis McClaren posted:Would it be possible that a breaker bar would be an easier solution for you? It could very well be tbh. It just shits me that they put it in so tight and makes me wonder how easy the filter will be to get off. What should have been an easy job keeps getting harder.
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Apr 23, 2018 15:30
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Old stock 13/16" MBC New 1" MBC for a '93 T100 (insert girth joke here)  Had to get a little creative with the tubing going from top mount to side. Pedal is now rock hard about half way down, but still slow to grab. Probably because I did not swap drums in the back, and pads/rotor in the front. Will do those when I have time to pull the hub/locker/ball joints later. Bonus glamour shot after scraping a crapton of pollen off. 
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Apr 23, 2018 15:39
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Meydey posted:Old stock 13/16" MBC That is a very pretty truck. 
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Apr 23, 2018 15:57
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KakerMix posted:That is a very pretty truck. Thanks. Its got some fading on the bed, some half-assed rust repair on the passenger side bed, and a bent rear bumper. The original stripes are cracked , there are nicks and dings, and overall it rides like poo poo because of 30-year old bushings/joints. Still its my baby and probably the best $900 I ever spent (in 2005). Next step is new springs and bushings.
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Apr 23, 2018 16:09
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Meydey posted:Thanks. Its got some fading on the bed, some half-assed rust repair on the passenger side bed, and a bent rear bumper. The original stripes are cracked , there are nicks and dings, and overall it rides like poo poo because of 30-year old bushings/joints. Toyota trucks and 4Runners of that vintage have gone stratospheric lately but that hasn't stopped me from joining.  May 5th it will be at port and boooyyy it's going to be great.
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Apr 23, 2018 16:23
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KakerMix posted:Toyota trucks and 4Runners of that vintage have gone stratospheric lately but that hasn't stopped me from joining. That is rad. Love the mirrors and TURBO stripes.
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Apr 23, 2018 16:28
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EvilBeard posted:
That's lovely. I like the '56 - they always seem to take a back seat to the '55 and especially the '57. My Dad has had a '55 since just after I was born, but it's in pretty sad shape at the moment. He's retired now, so maybe he'll get around to restoring it. Go look up what the gauge is expecting, and make sure that you have that sender. It may not want the factory sender, or maybe there's a switch on the back for the sender type or something Handen posted:I got some junk GXP calipers from the same guy who I bought the rotors from and I'll be using them to get my core charge refund on the paint-stripped remans I ordered from Rockauto and painted myself. The guy at the paint shop recommended I absolutely not use engine enamel, but I got hung up on this colour so I mentally told the guy to gently caress off and bought the paint anyway. I did a high heat primer, then "Old Pontiac Engine Blue" by Plastikote, then a gloss coat that reactivated the enamel coat and made it melty and runny and almost completely hosed until I aimed a hairdryer at it to cure it or some poo poo. Now it seems pretty alright, but time will tell what brake dust and weather can do to it. Looks cool. Thanks for using something besides red or yellow. FWIW: I wanted white for the calipers on my white Crown Vic, and no one makes a white caliper paint that wasn't $50. After a bit of research, I went with Motor Coater from KBS Coatings. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/Motor-Coater.html Note the last line in the description: "Great for Brake Calipers Too!" A pint was $25, and I used maybe 1/4 of that. It comes out glossy and stays that way. I used the brush on so I wouldn't have to mask the calipers on the car as much, and it's a bit thick, but worked pretty well. It's still white, at any rate - hasn't turned yellow or flaked/chipped. They do have it in Pontiac Light Blue, as well as pretty much every standard classic engine color and primary colors. quote:THERE'S A 4T65E AUX COOLER?! Please for the love of god I need information! I was just thinking about this today as my trans temp crested above 100şC for the first time since last fall. hattersmad posted:Umm okay that's dope Sure looks like it, with extra big wheel openings, a funny car cage, and a big fuckoff drag spoiler. tehk posted:First gen rx7 full chassis car. Should be fast Awwwwww, yeah. Ambihelical Hexnut posted:batteries and breakaways My project for the weekend was figuring out why the blower fan on my wife's Kia Spectra5 was intermittent, then quit altogether. I bought a replacement blower, because until last week, you could smack the fan, and it would work again. I actually pulled it out and inspected everything a few weeks ago, and saw no problem. Last week it quit altogether and no amount of pounding would spur it back to life. Replacement fan also did not work, and both tested OK on the bench. First suspect was the relay, bit it also tested good. A bit (more) research pointed me to the MOSFET blower speed controller (which replaced the resistor pack on earlier models) and the wiring/plug thereof.  Well, the wire looks like it got a little warm but not so...    Oh, poo poo. MOSFET itself seems OK:    Wee bit of heat marking on the terminals, maybe. As far as I can tell, heat cycling made one of the high current terminals loosen up and, along with the shell melting, allow the terminal to slide further off of the blade = more heat, lather rinse repeat. I removed the shell, cleaned up the terminals a bit, crimped them a bit tighter with a pair of pliers, and plugged them in directly. Everything worked fine like that, and was secure, so I added a bit of heat shrink.   Reinstalled:  And called it a day. Remians of the shell:  I can get a replacement plug with pigtails, but they are stupidly expensive. In no way is this ever worth $15, much less the $30 that most of them charge. I'll find one in a wrecked Kia/Hyundai or something if I feel the need. Glad it wasn't the MOSFET. That damned thing is $90!
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Apr 23, 2018 18:02
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I replaced my radiator cap because after discovering my coolant wasn't going into my engine or oil, I decided to give the engine bay a wipe down to see if I could find where it was leaking out from. Found a bunch of spray in the area surrounding the radiator cap. Replaced it, ran it hard, no spray. Also I replaced my radiator and my running Temps dropped 60 degrees which is nice, also my center console doesn't get super warm anymore because the tyranny fluid is finally getting adequate cooling.
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Apr 23, 2018 19:10
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loving tyrranical cars!
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Apr 23, 2018 19:30
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KakerMix posted:Toyota trucks and 4Runners of that vintage have gone stratospheric lately but that hasn't stopped me from joining. Wasn't there someone in here that had a USDM turbo 4Runner several years ago? I know the US version was a 22RE with a factory turbo, but a lot of parts were unobtanium. Nice to see another one.
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Apr 23, 2018 20:39
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Pulled the trigger on an aluminium bed, just waiting to hear back from Aqualu in the morning with a time frame and freight cost. Here's a picture that is intentionally in link form so I didn't have to re-upload: http://www.hardbody4x4.com/uploads/6/4/2/2/6422733/_____9138090_orig.jpg I'll be losing a lot of details, like the tray ribbing and raised lettering on the tailgate, but I think I have a plan for those. As for the missing 3 hooks on the tailgate, I've asked Aqualu if they would weld some on. Kinda sad I'm gonna have to abandon the original bed. I think I have to retain my original headache rack for the new bed, so at least there'll be that. I'll have to figure something out for the steel to aluminium contact, maybe some thin rubber strips to keep them separated. As for the rest of the bed, I guess it'll be going up on kijiji soon so maybe someone willing to put forth the effort can salvage it for their 45. If it doesn't sell within a couple months though, I'll keep the tailgate for wall art, cut off and keep the bed sides for future potential salvage, and scrap the rest.
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Apr 23, 2018 23:17
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Finally installed the missing door trim on Negative Ions. Also fixed the clutch pedal. Ion clutch pedals are plastic - the cup that the pushrod goes into eventually cracks and falls apart; first indication is the pedal seems really sloppy and the slip point winds up being close to the firewall. Eventually the pushrod punches through the clutch arm itself. That happened on the Saturd. GM now makes a replacement bushing: Since I already knew where it was, it was just a matter of popping out the retainer, pulling the pushrod out of the pedal, cleaning the remains of the broken bushing, and popping it in with a finger (.... and dropping it 10 or 15 times). Then pop the pushrod back in, put pressure on the pedal, and put the retainer back in. ~10 minutes, and the clutch feels perfect now. Negative Ions now has all of the trim it's supposed to have. The paint is pretty rough on it - the clearcoat is fine, but there's a lot of chips in it all over the place. Even on the roof.  (and some dickhead sanded the spoiler down to bare plastic) Still, looks a lot better with all the trim. Previously it was missing the door frame trim (where you'd expect the B pillar), and the trim along the driver's door window was coming apart. I started swapping the alloys over from the old car, then put one of each wheel/tire side by side and realized there's a pretty decent size difference. Explains why it seems like the RPMs are a bit higher at the same speeds.... because they are. Don't feel like getting the ECU reprogrammed for the larger wheels, and the speedometer being ~2.5 mph off (on top of how off it is already... it reads a little low, just like the old car) would trigger my OCD pretty bad. 2 of the tires it came with are half worn (.. but 4 years old), 2 of them look brand new (... 2 years old). Yanked the sub and amp out of the old car, not sure if I'll install them in Negative or not. Just want to swap the (practically brand new) rotors over; these have some runout/pad deposits/whatever you want to call it. After that, Saturd will get scrapped. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 24, 2018 02:05
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Wasn't there someone in here that had a USDM turbo 4Runner several years ago? I know the US version was a 22RE with a factory turbo, but a lot of parts were unobtanium. No idea, must have been before I was 'in' to AI. USDM turbos were, like you said, a 22RE with an automatic transmission. This one I have is a 2.4 turbo diesel 5 speed because of course it would be. If I get bored I can always sell it off to someone here in the US because $$$$$$$$$$$$$. Fermented Tinal posted:Pulled the trigger on an aluminium bed, just waiting to hear back from Aqualu in the morning with a time frame and freight cost. Rust
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Apr 24, 2018 02:35
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I wanted to finally install the upgrades to my sound system that I bought forever ago. Ford of Australia decided to make accessing the rear speakers as difficult as possible One speaker down, three others and a bunch of wiring to go And I found out that our whippet that is afraid of loud noises and sudden movements loves to hang out in the garage with me. I loaded up a sled with hand towels so she could be warm 
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Apr 24, 2018 03:29
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Darchangel posted:
Yea definitely. I already have a nice enclosure for them and wires running into the vee nose, but relocating the breakaway batt and cutting a vent hole in the trailer wall will have to wait until next season.
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Apr 24, 2018 03:59
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KakerMix posted:Rust C'est la vie.
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Apr 24, 2018 04:07
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Negative Ions now has all of the trim it's supposed to have. The paint is pretty rough on it - the clearcoat is fine, but there's a lot of chips in it all over the place. Even on the roof. I tend to drive more than most folks, though less than you do, and I've gotten stone chips on every panel of the car. Roof rails, trim, trunk, one rock even thoroughly dented the trim (and flaked off the paint) on my 06 3 series. I got pretty good a touch up painting. Vermont had a fair amount of rocks and rock salt mixed in their road treatments. -.- Brine coats everything on the car, sand/salt is like bead blasting the car. 
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Apr 24, 2018 04:09
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Mines covered in quite a few stone chips mostly on the front bumper and bonnet. Driving through the country didn’t help in that respect either. Managed to get the sump bolt off so an oil change has been completed without any coming out of the bolt/ filter afterwards which is nice.
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Apr 24, 2018 04:27
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The hood and bumper are in pretty good shape, most of the chips I've found have been on the doors and roof.  Thankfully.... the body panels (aside from the roof itself) are black plastic under everything, and the car is black, so the chips don't stand out unless you're looking for them. KakerMix posted:No idea, must have been before I was 'in' to AI. USDM turbos were, like you said, a 22RE with an automatic transmission. This one I have is a 2.4 turbo diesel 5 speed because of course it would be. If I get bored I can always sell it off to someone here in the US because $$$$$$$$$$$$$. I could have sworn his was a manual, but it may have been swapped. Really not sure, it's been several years since it was posted. Nice job finding a diesel 4Runner. never knew they made those.
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Apr 24, 2018 05:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:The hood and bumper are in pretty good shape, most of the chips I've found have been on the doors and roof. Woah hey, this isn't a 4Runner sir this is a ~Hilux Surf~ 
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Apr 24, 2018 07:06
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Potato, potato. 
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Apr 24, 2018 07:12
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Uglyhoodmobile is now on Firehawk Indy 500's and actually completely functional. It just needs a hood and a headunit.  Ugly hood is still ugly, but it drives awesome and is going on a 1100 mile roadtrip in 3 days more or less untested
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Apr 25, 2018 00:42
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^^^^That is very nice. I put a battery in the roughranger and pulled it into the shop.  Everything works except the speedo/odo, which is apparently (probably) the VSS in a 96. I also found a big vacuum leak where the line goes into the charcoal canister, so I plugged that at the intake for now and it seems to idle normally, even with the AC cycling. The truck badly needs a stage 0 but... Even underneath it doesn't look monkeyed with. Still sporting the original exhaust and catalytic converter. But it is awfully disgusting inside and out, and this horrible body molding which I'm not sure is even factory, is falling off and I'm amazed it's all still there. 
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Apr 25, 2018 03:31
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Not factory. I'm pretty sure it may have been a dealer-installed option. If it's not a dealer thing, it's something out of a JC Whitney catalog. I found a couple of them with similar trim going through Google, but Ford was usually a fan of attaching trim like that through holes in the bodywork + plastic retainers when it was factory installed. That's certainly faded enough to have been on there as long as the truck has been on the road, so I'm voting dealer installed when it was new. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:03 on Apr 25, 2018 |
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Apr 25, 2018 06:46
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I would like to know more about your pink convertible.angryrobots posted:I put a battery in the roughranger and pulled it into the shop.
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Apr 25, 2018 16:14
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Fermented Tinal posted:Pulled the trigger on an aluminium bed, just waiting to hear back from Aqualu in the morning with a time frame and freight cost. Update to this, freight's been figured out and now I'm waiting for an invoice and payment options from Aqualu, hoping they'll take email interac cause that's easiest for me. Bed should be here in 2-3 weeks! Ultimately I'm paying about half as much as the steel replacement bed would've run.
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Apr 25, 2018 17:30
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