|
Insanely jealous of all the people who rarely have their sump pump activate. My house has this great feature where the basement was apparently built in an underground pond of iron-saturated water so my french drain fills my sump up maybe once every 45 seconds. Last year the main pump died from stress and the backup also died of stress/dead battery so my basement flooded a couple of inches. Plumber came out and installed a new sump pump from his truck (more expensive than if I had supplied the pump, but still way cheaper than I was expecting) but now it's just one industrial pump with no backup. Every time there's a bad storm my heart races with the thought of the power going out and my basement flooding again. I don't feel super comfortable about installing a backup myself since that would involve some mid-level hands-on pipework while my sump overflowed, but I also haven't had the push to buy a backup and call the plumber to come back out and install it. I've also thought about buying a generator and just snaking an extension cord from the garage to the basement when the bad times come, but that's also not a great idea for obvious reasons. And since the water is iron-rich it leaves a bunch of iron slime on the sump equipment and a beautiful (read: nasty) red streak along my curb where water is constantly flowing towards the street drain. I call it my moat and I hate it.
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 19:00
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 22:21 |
|
|
What are some fast-growing trees that can be planted in a backyard? I want something that will be able to support a rope swing after a few years, and a tree-house after about 10. Lots of shade preferred. I'm in Central Texas.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 19:19
|
|
|
I had some kind of hybrid cedars in my back yard, but I would not recommend them because while they grew very fast, they did not develop a deep root system. Net result, when a sufficiently strong windstorm swept through, they all tipped over. Fortunately no damage except to a fence that was already in bad shape, but basically I'd just caution you to make certain that the trees you plant will actually achieve the goals you have for them, not just "get big fast".
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 19:27
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I had some kind of hybrid cedars in my back yard, but I would not recommend them because while they grew very fast, they did not develop a deep root system. Net result, when a sufficiently strong windstorm swept through, they all tipped over. Fortunately no damage except to a fence that was already in bad shape, but basically I'd just caution you to make certain that the trees you plant will actually achieve the goals you have for them, not just "get big fast". Noted. I wouldn't get cedars anyway since so many people are allergic to them. I'll talk to a few landscaping companies to see what they say. The soil where I am is basically clay, so that will probably impact what species are appropriate.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 21:13
|
|
|
extravadanza posted:How close is too close to plant trees near a gas line? I want to put some small trees and shrubs along my property line, but there's a gas line about 5 feet away from the property line. In my state you're simply not allowed if it's within 30 inches. It really depends on the tree though
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 22:55
|
|
|
extravadanza posted:How close is too close to plant trees near a gas line? I want to put some small trees and shrubs along my property line, but there's a gas line about 5 feet away from the property line. You definitely want them far enough away so if they have to repair the gas line, they're not cutting down all your trees. 5 feet away seems like it would be fine. However, I think you're confused, you don't know of any gas lines in your yard 
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 00:48
|
|
|
devicenull posted:However, I think you're confused, you don't know of any gas lines in your yard ...and that tree has always been there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 02:49
|
|
|
Motronic posted:...and that tree has always been there. That tree occured by an act of God. Sue him.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 12:04
|
|
|
Motronic posted:...and that tree has always been there. Of course. Bought the house 6 months ago and the tree is nearly 6ft tall. No photos of that spot in the sales listing(because it would show the neighbors hideous house in need of serious repair). Definitely has always been there since I moved in at least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 13:13
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:What are some fast-growing trees that can be planted in a backyard? I want something that will be able to support a rope swing after a few years, and a tree-house after about 10. Lots of shade preferred. Both these things seem impossible to me but I am not an arborist. I had a Siberian Elm that grew insanely quick and I’m still not sure it would make that time table. It was also ugly, susceptible to disease, not suitable for rope swings, and probably not suitable for tree houses either. bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Apr 26, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 23:17
|
|
|
 Well then. I wonder when this decided it wanted to see the world. Edit: I can't find anything missing in my yard that matches that. I did however find that the lovely end crimp the landscaper did on a drip line had come undone making it a full pressure hose for 20 minutes, plus a drip head that had come off so it also was just peeing out water. Plus a popup sprinkler where the grass grew in so thickly over it it could no longer pop up. Yay? Walk your sprinkler zones periodically. 
H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 04:08 on Apr 27, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 03:08
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:Walk your sprinkler zones periodically. I never used my sprinkler system but I would run it every couple of months in test mode for that very reason.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 14:32
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:What are some fast-growing trees that can be planted in a backyard? I want something that will be able to support a rope swing after a few years, and a tree-house after about 10. Lots of shade preferred. While it meets your requirements of growing fast and providing shade, picking up after any kind of storm is a nightmare.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 15:27
|
|
|
Cheesus posted:Don't get a willow tree. Now that it's spring I see all these wonderful flowering trees and kind of wish we had one...then I see the giant mess they make on the property once all the pedals start falling and decide it's best to enjoy them when they're someone else's problem.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 16:36
|
|
|
Just mow that poo poo into the lawn it's free nitrogen. Sheesh.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 19:15
|
|
|
LogisticEarth posted:Just mow that poo poo into the lawn it's free nitrogen. Sheesh. This. Our yard is covered in beautiful pink and white flowers in the summer and they just get mowed with the grass, and we never use the mower bag because that seems dumb
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 20:49
|
|
|
The only time to bag clippings is if you've really let the lawn go and they would smother the grass.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 22:11
|
|
|
baquerd posted:The only time to bag clippings is if you've really let the lawn go and they would smother the grass. Or right before spraying for weeds.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 23:15
|
|
|
I have a 5 ton A/C unit which currently has space for two 20x25x1" filters, so 1000 inches total area. I use generic Merv 7 or 8 pleated filters and haven't had any airflow issues as far as I know. I would like to use a higher MERV filter to help with dust and air quality. If I get the filter box replaced/modified to accommodate two 20x25x4" filters, would it be pretty safe to go to MERV 13 or even 15 filters? I know this is very situation dependent, just trying to see if this is a good idea or not before I have any work done.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 23:33
|
|
|
LogisticEarth posted:Just mow that poo poo into the lawn it's free nitrogen. Sheesh. Willows (at least the one in my yard) drop long woody whips and waxy leaves that do not readily decompose. The proper way to deal with them is a rake. Also don't mulch your leaves anyways. Unless you have a powerful enough mower with a very good mulching blade (which you probably don't) you are not chopping the dried leaves up enough for them to decompose before matting down and smothering your soil. You will chop them up enough that they will fall down to the dirt between the bladesof grass, and they will decompose eventually, but then they will form a blanket at the soil layer that starves the dirt and roots below of oxygen and absorbs all the fertilizer you throw down on top. Blow/Rake the bulk of your leaves off the lawn and then mulch the stragglers, or bag when mowing all the leaves and dump the bag into your compost (where the environment WILL help the leaves break down faster). Sudden Loud Noise posted:Or right before spraying for weeds. Or before/after seeding.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2018 00:50
|
|
|
QuarkJets posted:This. Our yard is covered in beautiful pink and white flowers in the summer and they just get mowed with the grass, and we never use the mower bag because that seems dumb Bagging your clippings and using them as mulch for your beds actually works really well. It's not an all the time thing, but seasonally useful. Or, like I mentioned, if you've got a compost system and a garden where the compost would be more useful elsewhere. But yeah, most of the time just mulch.
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2018 00:52
|
|
|
My range (viking 4-top) has one burner where it seems to be having trouble sparking. The other burners spark and light without problems. This particular burner will only spark if I can close the gap between sparker and ground. Any ideas what I might look at to get it back to 100%?
|
|
#
?
Apr 28, 2018 03:47
|
|
|
enraged_camel posted:What are some fast-growing trees that can be planted in a backyard? I want something that will be able to support a rope swing after a few years, and a tree-house after about 10. Lots of shade preferred. Bald cypress and montezuma cypress are worth looking into.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2018 05:01
|
|
|
z0331 posted:Now that it's spring I see all these wonderful flowering trees and kind of wish we had one...then I see the giant mess they make on the property once all the pedals start falling and decide it's best to enjoy them when they're someone else's problem. Plant a Magnolia tree and eat the flowers, or eat the flowers of almost every flowering tree, flowers are normally edible and taste good. Also use them to decorate your house and make it smell nice. I do have a Magnolia tree in my backyard that needs to be removed, old owners planted it like 3' from our deck and 5' from the house. It's already gotten to the point where it is extremely annoying to deal with.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2018 15:52
|
|
|
Over the winter, my porch cement slab sank an inch or 2 at the corner. My brick porch railing(?) is now coming away from the house and with some slight pushing will rock. I dread to think what this is going to cost. I'd like to get through just 1 year without something going wild. I've got a wedding to pay for, damnit. Porch looks a bit like this: http://www.livingthecountrylife.com/blogs/betsys-backyard/2013/02/07/front-porch-and-after/ Anyone have experience with masonry? I need to level the porch slab first, but I'd rather my world to not come crumbling down because I did a poo poo job and jumped into something I shouldn't have.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2018 18:51
|
|
|
I can't seem to find the name of the service, but my parents did some thing with their porch where someone drills a hole and blast some material in there to lift it and level it out. Given how cheap my parents are, I'm guessing the service was pretty cheap.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2018 19:03
|
|
|
It's called mudjacking or polyjacking.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2018 19:44
|
|
|
Droo posted:I have a 5 ton A/C unit which currently has space for two 20x25x1" filters, so 1000 inches total area. I use generic Merv 7 or 8 pleated filters and haven't had any airflow issues as far as I know.
|
|
#
?
Apr 30, 2018 23:57
|
|
|
gvibes posted:I can't seem to find the name of the service, but my parents did some thing with their porch where someone drills a hole and blast some material in there to lift it and level it out. Given how cheap my parents are, I'm guessing the service was pretty cheap. No Butt Stuff posted:It's called mudjacking or polyjacking. Thanks gents! I've gotten a quote for this, in specific, and it's only 650 bucks. The real problem for me is that the brick and mortar is so beat up that I need to get that redone too. It'll look real silly if I mudjack my house and the mortar fails, knocking off part of my roof.
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2018 18:00
|
|
|
Anyone dealt with updating an old electrical system? I'm probably buying a 1950 home and while everything works, it would be nice to have grounded outlets  First step is combining the old breaker box outside that was added for dryer and AC loads with the fuse box inside that still handles everything else, into a single modern breaker box. I've called one electrician so far and he quoted me $3,500-$4,500. I'm wondering if any goons have gone through this and can tell me if that's about right or not. It's hard to find people with similar setups through Google to compare costs. E: his quote for everything, including rewiring the 1093 sqft house was 10K-11K.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2018 16:01
|
|
|
Is the house knob and tube wiring or romex?
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2018 16:03
|
|
|
Romex and copper, luckily.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2018 16:40
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:E: his quote for everything, including rewiring the 1093 sqft house was 10K-11K. I did this, it cost that much. It was worth every penny. Equally important find a high quality drywall/plaster repair company. I've used good and bad, it's a night and day difference. Spend the extra money. Ours was literally double but you I have difficulty finding their patch work. If you have an outbuilding or any trench work to be done, sub panel it and make it bigger than you think. It's only a few hundred more bucks in materials and the labor cost is flat. For example our 1250 sqft house now has 200A service and a 100A sub in the garage. Net difference between 150A + 50A was under a grand if I recall correctly. We have all gas heating, but if we wanted to install a fancy eletric+gas oven or water heater or car charger I'm good to go. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:04 on May 2, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 2, 2018 18:00
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:I did this, it cost that much. It was worth every penny. Equally important find a high quality drywall/plaster repair company. I've used good and bad, it's a night and day difference. Spend the extra money. Ours was literally double but you I have difficulty finding their patch work. Thanks for the input! No trench work needed currently but assuming I end up with the house, a dedicated workshop is definitely in the long term plans. Right now I'm mostly making sure I understand the costs for seller negotiation.
|
|
#
?
May 2, 2018 18:21
|
|
|
SpartanIvy posted:I've called one electrician so far and he quoted me $3,500-$4,500. I'm wondering if any goons have gone through this and can tell me if that's about right or not. It's hard to find people with similar setups through Google to compare costs. This is in the ballpark in my experience, too. Make sure all bids you get include the cost of permits and inspections.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2018 05:44
|
|
|
Anyone here have experience with drip irrigation? Common installation advice is to put a backflow preventer right on the valve, then your pressure regulator, then send the 3/4" drip tubing out to wherever it needs to go (or if you have a timer, put the backflow preventer on one of the timer's output ports, then pressure regulator). But my hose valve is over concrete, and a small puddle gets created every time that the system turns off as a result of the backflow preventer being there. What I could do is run 3/4" tubing from the valve to grass, and then install the backflow preventer there between a pair of tubing adapters so that the small amount of water just gets dumped into the ground. Is there a reason to not do this other than it being kind of hokey? I'm not sure how these little plastic backflow preventers work, is it possible that putting it at ground-level will just cause it to not work?
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2018 08:03
|
|
|
You should check your plumbing code for what kind of backflow preventer you need. Some places might require a dual check valve, like this one. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-Lead-Free-Brass-MPT-Dual-Check-Valve-LF7U2-2-3-4/203473940
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2018 16:40
|
|
|
QuarkJets posted:Anyone here have experience with drip irrigation? Backflow prevention devices should be at the HIGHEST point in the system. If yours is puking water on a regular basis it's either installed in the wrong place, wrong orientation or it's faulty.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2018 17:53
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Backflow prevention devices should be at the HIGHEST point in the system. If yours is puking water on a regular basis it's either installed in the wrong place, wrong orientation or it's faulty. Some of my emitters are higher elevation than my hose faucet. I think I'm going to install a riser on one of my unused sprinkler positions and have the drip irrigation tubing come out of there. Then gravity works in my favor, and backflow prevention is over dirt instead of concrete in case water does start to backflow.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2018 19:53
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 19, 2024 22:21 |
|
|
QuarkJets posted:Some of my emitters are higher elevation than my hose faucet. That's probably a good way to solve this. Or a hose bib hardware store pieces parts contraption that move the backflow device and outlet to above the highest emitter. Hard to give specific advice without knowing the layout to tell what looks least ugly/weird with a minimal effort.
|
|
#
?
May 5, 2018 20:01
|
|