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Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

goodness posted:

Which one should I get? Main use will be magnetizing plastic/resin models. It seems dumb to get the tiny thing that is more expensive, but I've read dremels can melt the plastic if they are too strong?


Please do your penis-sounding by hand.

:ohdear:

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BlackIronHeart
Aug 2, 2004

The Oath Breaker's about to hit warphead nine Kaptain!
Most Dremel and Dremel-esque knockoffs have a speed control so melting plastic shouldn't be too much of a concern.

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

goodness posted:

Which one should I get? Main use will be magnetizing plastic/resin models. It seems dumb to get the tiny thing that is more expensive, but I've read dremels can melt the plastic if they are too strong?


Is a pin vice not an option? That's what I use, and I've never had issues with it. I don't know if I'd want to use a Dremel or something for fear of drilling too deep.

Big Willy Style
Feb 11, 2007

How many Astartes do you know that roll like this?
Yeah a dremel is kind of overkill for plastic if you only want to drill. You're going to have more control with the pin vice.

TTerrible
Jul 15, 2005

Hixson posted:

These are good skeletons. I like the green

Content: I painted another blade slave











And here’s the family all together



What is your opinion on that Dremel knock off, tho.

goodness
Jan 3, 2012

When the light turns green, you go. When the light turns red, you stop. But what do you do when the light turns blue with orange and lavender spots?

Avenging Dentist posted:

Is a pin vice not an option? That's what I use, and I've never had issues with it. I don't know if I'd want to use a Dremel or something for fear of drilling too deep.

I didn't think they worked that well but youtube shows otherwise. Ill try that

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte
I use a variable speed Dremel. It's great.

Cheap too.

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

TTerrible posted:

What is your opinion on that Dremel knock off, tho.

i expect no less

Avenging Dentist
Oct 1, 2005

oh my god is that a circular saw that does not go in my mouth aaaaagh

Yeast posted:

I use a variable speed Dremel. It's great.

Cheap too.

Yeah, I like my Dremel too, but I don't use it for pinning. It's kind of awkward to hold/use compared to a pin vice.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

goodness posted:

Which one should I get? Main use will be magnetizing plastic/resin models. It seems dumb to get the tiny thing that is more expensive, but I've read dremels can melt the plastic if they are too strong?


A Dremel is a legit good tool to just have on hand around the house so go that way. $20 sounds sketchy though so I'm jump on a cheapish one with solid reviews on Amazon

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!
It's better to use an electric screwdriver with a Chuck adapter. 200-300 rpm vs 6000rpm.

Don't drill a hole in your thumbnail bed like me.

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

dexefiend posted:

It's better to use an electric screwdriver with a Chuck adapter. 200-300 rpm vs 6000rpm.

Don't drill a hole in your thumbnail bed like me.

:shudder::vomarine:

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Yeah, I was so nauseous I almost threw up.

bird food bathtub
Aug 9, 2003

College Slice

w00tmonger posted:

A Dremel is a legit good tool to just have on hand around the house so go that way. $20 sounds sketchy though so I'm jump on a cheapish one with solid reviews on Amazon
For the Dremel, it's overkill for modeling things like magnetising and the like, but still useful to have around the house so buy both a Dremel and a pin vice.


For you.....what the gently caress is going on in your avatar?

Kung Fu Fist Fuck
Aug 9, 2009

dexefiend posted:

Yeah, I was so nauseous I almost threw up.

heh, hole in your thumbnail? quaint :clint:

LazyAngel
Mar 17, 2009

grassy gnoll posted:

Thanks. That's a mighty fine coppery shade you have going there.

For more examples, here's Maximus with the gold done to the Scale75 recipe, and the steel done with Cobalt Alchemy (the blue one);



The Scale75 metallics are a bit more liquid than the rest of their paints, nearly as much as the Vallejo Model Air metallics, and seem to go on even smoother just brushed on, although I've yet to try them in an airbrush. Really good coverage too - the gold base is just their Viking Gold over black primer, and it only took a couple of coats, whereas VMA tended to be a bit more trnasluscent.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Crossposting from the Oath Thread.

All around, I'm pretty happy with how these three turned out, and it was a welcome reprieve from painting black armor.

Floppychop posted:

Oath complete!

Claiming Journal for the free hand on the parchment flight stand things. I attempted at least 1 fleur-de-lis on each model. They came out... okay.


Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008

What a view!

Grimey Drawer

Floppychop posted:

Crossposting from the Oath Thread.

All around, I'm pretty happy with how these three turned out, and it was a welcome reprieve from painting black armor.
They're really cool. What golds did you use for them?

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Electric Hobo posted:

They're really cool. What golds did you use for them?

I kept it pretty simple.

-base of VMC Gold
-wash with Reikland Fleshshade
-layer of Liberator Gold in everything but the recesses
-edge highlight of Stormhost Silver

Grey Hunter
Oct 17, 2007

Hero of the soviet union.
Accidental destroyer of planets
Cross posting from the oath thread.

Grey Hunter posted:

Oath Complete

I pushed myself this month, a good number of models, weathering, custom transfers (and weathering of them), Object light sourcing as well.



The Big beasty.



The Rebel's reply.



Babbies first OSL.




Some support.




The Troops. Stormtroopers are HARD. Hard to paint and hard to photo.



The barricades. zzzz

Kilazar
Mar 23, 2010
Finished the leader of my Stealth team. F edge highlighting black. I am no good at it when I can't get that magical 45 degree angle.

On another note, I am loving the hell out of the newer gloss agrax shade gw put out. It is talent in a bottle.

Eventually I will go back in and add a glow effect to the barrell. But I am still learning subtle OSL and do not want to mess it up. Once I get better after practice on test models, I will come back to him. The eye glow was pure accident.

Kilazar fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Apr 26, 2018

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
I'm considering spraying and painting my next set of Primaris intercessors on the sprues then assembling and doing touch-up work. Is this feasible and/or time-saving?

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

TheBigAristotle posted:

I'm considering spraying and painting my next set of Primaris intercessors on the sprues then assembling and doing touch-up work. Is this feasible and/or time-saving?

Do you care about your paint job? If not, go for it.

If you do, however, you'll have to reprime and repair all of the spots where you trimmed the bits off the sprue, as well as any frosting that occurs from supergluing the pieces together. And don't forget about moldline removal - you can't do that with a painted model.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
drat. So much for laziness

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

TheBigAristotle posted:

I'm considering spraying and painting my next set of Primaris intercessors on the sprues then assembling and doing touch-up work. Is this feasible and/or time-saving?

I probably spend at least an hour per model cleaning up flashing, gluing together subassemblies, drilling barrels, and doing all the prep work necessary to get things ready for priming. Even after priming I end up going back and doing touch-up on mold lines that I missed. Your "touch-up" phase would likely take twice as long.

What has worked for me is to glue subassemblies onto pieces of sprue in places I won't see. Then I can airbrush and paint them separately before gluing it all together and doing final touch-ups. This seems to save time and work well.



berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

TheBigAristotle posted:

drat. So much for laziness

Eh, it's not being lazy if it works - that's being smart.

TheBigAristotle
Feb 8, 2007

I'm tired of hearing about money, money, money, money, money.
I just want to play the game, drink Pepsi, wear Reebok.

Grimey Drawer
With my latest Primaris intercessors, I removed the pieces, ran an xacto over the rough spots, smoothed out the moldlines. Then I assembled the models, primed, washed and painted. Spots that aren't visible were fine bc the averland sunset spray worked well as a yellow for shadowed areas anyway.

I won't be winning any awards but my yellow is vastly improved since my first tacticals. I will probably in the future use the paint-in-parts method, as it can be annoying to try and reach a red brush into places and scrape a yellow spot and have to fix it.

The issue I've had really is highlighting edges. I just don't know if I have the brush control to put it off. Are there maybe drybrush techniques that work?

Mr. Bad Guy
Jun 28, 2006
I made a wet pallet, and it's super helpful! My favorite part of painting so far is constantly checking the box art to see what color every little goddamn thing on these fuckers is supposed to be. loving' 'zerkers and their bronze trim and rivets everywhere. I'm not slavishly following the box art, just seeing where to contrast things for the most visual distinction. Unfortunately things have been busy lately so I still haven't finished my first mini but I'm making progress! I'd like to think that with more experience it'll take a lot less time. I think I'm probably getting too hung up on details.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

I've been having issues with masking tape. It always pulls up the layer it was stuck too. Not the whole thing, just a few spots.

I've been using Tamiya masking tape and I've let the primer dry for days, put the base layer down and let it dry for days and I'm still having issues.

Is there something simple I'm missing?

Kilazar
Mar 23, 2010

Floppychop posted:

I've been having issues with masking tape. It always pulls up the layer it was stuck too. Not the whole thing, just a few spots.

I've been using Tamiya masking tape and I've let the primer dry for days, put the base layer down and let it dry for days and I'm still having issues.

Is there something simple I'm missing?

Dont leave it on for more than an hour or two? I only had that issue when I would mask the night before and come back to my project the next day.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Kilazar posted:

Dont leave it on for more than an hour or two? I only had that issue when I would mask the night before and come back to my project the next day.

I just have it on long enough to airbrush then I take it off right away.

I'm using Stylenrez primer and Vallejo paints.

Salynne
Oct 25, 2007

Floppychop posted:

I just have it on long enough to airbrush then I take it off right away.

I'm using Stylenrez primer and Vallejo paints.

You can put some varnish down first, even just a thin layer of matte.

moths
Aug 25, 2004

I would also still appreciate some danger.



You can also repeatedly stick the masking tape to your pants leg or sweatshirt and remove it to get its tackiness down.

Kilazar
Mar 23, 2010

Floppychop posted:

I just have it on long enough to airbrush then I take it off right away.

I'm using Stylenrez primer and Vallejo paints.

How fresh is the layer of paint you are masking on? I don't mask on layers until they have cured for a couple hours.

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Kilazar posted:

How fresh is the layer of paint you are masking on? I don't mask on layers until they have cured for a couple hours.

At least a day. I've even let the primer cure for at least 24 hrs before I put the base layer on

thiswayliesmadness
Dec 3, 2009

I hope to see you next time, and take care all
Some quick snaps of my almost done Dreadknight conversion




Guy Goodbody
Aug 31, 2016

by Nyc_Tattoo
There's some kind of painting competition called Dawn Crown going on in Japan, and the stuff they're turning out is intense

https://twitter.com/Sandman9215/status/990006451576885248

https://twitter.com/Pla_Shiba/status/990219474035855361

Schadenboner
Aug 15, 2011

by Shine

I feel like a native speaker would have known to avoid words spanning both sides of the book.

That's literally all I can say against it. By the Emperor's left nipple.

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!



A sketch of red urban camo.

Trying to prepare for my Batman Miniatures Scarecrow/Militia guys that will show up this week.


Edit: did a little more work

dexefiend fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Apr 29, 2018

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Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!
That camo is loving so sick.

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