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I think shaving the saddle is more typical, messing with the actual bridge is for repairs rather than setups.
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Apr 24, 2018 10:51
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That falls under "permanently mess with" for me - it's lowering the action in a way you can't undo without replacing the saddle piece, right? So it's not as easy as cranking it back up with an allen key
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Apr 24, 2018 15:56
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baka kaba posted:That said it might be worth trying a few string gauges first before you commit to a setup, especially if you're not sure what you like on this guitar. Also I'm not totally sure what an acoustic setup usually involves, they're less adjustable than an electric - do they permanently mess with the bridge? They also adjust the truss rod. Okay, I'll do what you suggested a few posts back and bring both guitars to the store and compare them and see what they say. If they recommend new strings, is there anything I should be looking for or avoiding in terms of brands, sizes, types etc.?
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Apr 24, 2018 16:19
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Mak0rz posted:If they recommend new strings, is there anything I should be looking for or avoiding in terms of brands, sizes, types etc.? Most strings are pretty decent, really, and it's a cheap enough thing for you to experiment with - especially once you're able to change them out in a a few minutes. (It will happen once you do it enough times...) The main thing with acoustic strings is that there are (mostly) two varieties: 80/20 bronze and phosphor bronze. 80/20 is a darker, warmer tone that stays pretty consistent is a sound you could describe as "more traditional." Phosphor bronze is a brighter, chiming tone that feels more "modern" and comes through clearer through pickups, but don't last as long because they have more treble to lose. A lot of brands will have both varieties in their line, so check the package. Which one you go with is really up to you!
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Apr 24, 2018 20:06
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I've been working through Joe Stump's sweep picking book -- which is, surprisingly, one of the best guitar books I've ever bought -- and I came across this arpeggio: Apparently, it is possible to mute the open strings, as Joe Stump does so on the recording, but since I am not a god-tier shredlord like Mr. Stump, I'm completely thrown for what the best strategy for muting them is. Any ideas? The ascending portion is manageable with progressive palm muting, but the descending portion is....problematic.
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Apr 24, 2018 21:45
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Mak0rz posted:They also adjust the truss rod. The gauge is probably the most important thing here, if your problem with the new guitar is that it's higher tension than the old one. Otherwise it's more of a preference thing and you'll need to experience a bunch of different kinds to have an opinion on that. All the major brands like D'addario and Ernie Ball have some basic inexpensive acoustic strings, there are fancier ones too (like Elixir) but you're best off getting a 'normal' set at first, just so you have something to compare to. So yeah, don't get upsold on those I guess Just make sure that whatever you get, you remember what gauge they are. Acoustic sets are annoying, in that they get called "extra light" etc instead of just using the number. Just makes it harder to remember exactly what you're using imo
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Apr 24, 2018 22:44
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baka kaba posted:Just make sure that whatever you get, you remember what gauge they are. Acoustic sets are annoying, in that they get called "extra light" etc instead of just using the number. Just makes it harder to remember exactly what you're using imo This isn't entirely accurate. Acoustic string packs also list the gauge. It's not like a store employee is going to look at you slack-jawed of you say you want Martin acoustic tens or something.
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Apr 25, 2018 00:11
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Chip McFuck posted:It's not like a store employee is going to look at you slack-jawed of you say you want Martin acoustic tens or something. (I kid.)
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Apr 25, 2018 00:18
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Anime Reference posted:They might, for buying such tiny little strings. But legit I did not know you could get acoustic 10s short of like special orders
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Apr 25, 2018 00:21
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Shugojin posted:But legit I did not know you could get acoustic 10s short of like special orders I always thought acoustic strings came in 13, 12 and gently caress You so I was surprised at how robust the selection was. Wish I'd known about them back when I still had an acoustic (although that thing was a shitheap so it might not have helped.)
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Apr 25, 2018 01:12
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Chip McFuck posted:It's not like a store employee is going to look at you slack-jawed if it's guitar center they probably will
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Apr 25, 2018 02:39
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The Muppets On PCP posted:if it's guitar center they probably will
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Apr 25, 2018 03:15
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Anime Reference posted:I always thought acoustic strings came in 13, 12 and gently caress You so I was surprised at how robust the selection was. Wish I'd known about them back when I still had an acoustic (although that thing was a shitheap so it might not have helped.) The naming convention for most acoustic strings is something along the lines of: 13s - "Medium" 12s- "Light" 11s - "______ Light" (Usually "Custom Light", but GHS uses "Extra Light," SIT calls them "Pro Light" and there are a few other variants) 10s - "Extra Light" ("Ultra Light" for GHS) Of course, there's variance in gauge across the other five strings for different brands, so keep notes on what you like!
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Apr 25, 2018 05:13
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Chip McFuck posted:It's not like a store employee is going to look at you slack-jawed of you say you want Martin acoustic tens or something. That absolutely happened to me last time I bought acoustic strings from a store. I seem to always end up dealing with the surly gatekeeper dude every time I go into one.
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Apr 25, 2018 05:32
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After The War posted:The naming convention for most acoustic strings is something along the lines of: Ernie Ball calls 11s "Light" and 12s "Medium Light" 🤔 Actually going off this image search
So the heaviest set anyone makes is always called "medium", even though it's at the extreme, and everything else is some random variation on "light", like they're falling over themselves to describe every gauge as like strumming angel hair, you won't believe how mega light these are, the best I know it's weird marketing silliness but is there anything behind it at all? Does plain "light" or "medium" reflect a standard set of tensions, so different materials and construction might produce a "light" set using different gauges? And "light" should always feel exactly the same whatever the brand?
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Apr 25, 2018 08:51
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They won't even be consistent within the same brand. D'addario sells 11-49 and 13-56 electric sets that are both "Medium" (and a 12-60 set that's "Extra Heavy".)
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Apr 25, 2018 10:37
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baka kaba posted:
When I was still working in music stores, if customers ever asked what the deal was, I told them the names were determined in the "Drunken Mustache" era.  (Pictured: The Guitar Emporium employee asking if you'd like guitar strings or a gauge more suitable for polio victims, like 13s)
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Apr 25, 2018 13:48
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After The War posted:When I was still working in music stores, if customers ever asked what the deal was, I told them the names were determined in the "Drunken Mustache" era. Which is extra fun, because I was watching this youtube video with a Martin from 1902 and the guy mentioned that you had to use SUPER SUPER SUPER light, low tension strings on it or else you'd pull the bridge off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sF6pi-WiP7o
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Apr 25, 2018 18:30
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At first I thought 00-42 was the gauge you were meant to use, and I was all "come on!!" Still trying to decide whether that guitar is too much (nah). Shame about the bridge though. Hope whoever buys it doesn't put some ULTRA LIGHT strings on it like an idiot After The War posted:(Pictured: The Guitar Emporium employee asking if you'd like guitar strings or a gauge more suitable for polio victims, like 13s) Circuses full of strongmen all pulling the sickest bends
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Apr 25, 2018 20:05
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I’ve settled on lights for everything. Sounds best to me and forces me to stay relaxed. Yooooo manlove you wanna do a cool black metaly thing so I can shred some silly minor solos over it?
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Apr 25, 2018 20:14
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Whoops sorry I got distracted with the first week at a new job, I'll do it tonight when I get home
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Apr 25, 2018 21:03
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Don’t worry I can’t remember to do anything ever even when I have nothing going on Anyone know the best free/cheap video editing software for Mac I can easily add text in? Can I just do that in iMovie? I’ve got the split tuner video good but hosed up on audio so I figured I’ll just sprinkle text in.
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Apr 25, 2018 21:07
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yeah imovie lets you add text but iirc it's called titles or some poo poo like that don't forget to use some still shots and add the ken burns effect
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Apr 25, 2018 21:29
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Having a problem with my 4-5 year old guitar. Sometimes when I bump the volume knob with my hand while playing the sound will short out and I have to jiggle the knob to get it to come back at all. It will cut out almost entirely even if the knob isn't actually moved. I'm assuming this just means there is some loose connection but I've never dug at the insides of a guitar before, so I'm wondering if this is something I could fix myself with a soldering iron or if I should just go to a repair shop.
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Apr 25, 2018 21:30
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The Muppets On PCP posted:yeah imovie lets you add text but iirc it's called titles or some poo poo like that That's a funny way to say Star Wipe. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=72bUheqRE5o
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Apr 25, 2018 21:41
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Should just be an easy fix where you resolder a joint or replace a pot, cap, or wire. The inside of a guitar is pretty easy to fix.
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Apr 25, 2018 21:49
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Agent355 posted:Having a problem with my 4-5 year old guitar. Sometimes when I bump the volume knob with my hand while playing the sound will short out and I have to jiggle the knob to get it to come back at all. It will cut out almost entirely even if the knob isn't actually moved. Most likely is just a loose connection. Is the pot screwed on tightly? You shouldn't be able to jiggle it. If the pot itself is loose it could be making contact with the wood of the guitar, creating a short. Either way, bad connections are pretty easy to diagnose. Gently pull the wires soldered to the pot and if you can feel some give in the solder joint, it needs to be resoldered. While you're at it, you should also check the input jack. Occasionally, the force of inserting and removing the instrument cable or retightening the nut a lot can cause the jack to rotate in place, breaking the solder joints. This doesn't happen often, but it's good to check just in case.
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Apr 25, 2018 22:38
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It's a good idea to keep tabs on the input jack anyway, I've found they have an annoying habit of unscrewing themselves.
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Apr 25, 2018 22:50
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It could just as easily be a dirty/rusty pot. I had this problem in my amp and a few guitars. If the volume drops in and out as you rotate it, or there is a scratchy noise, then it could just be a dirty pot. Someone suggested this to me a few months back and it was a life changer. I recommend everyone have some electrical contact cleaner on hand for their guitar equipment. I got Deoxit, but there are probably a million brands that are all about the same. But it works like a magic. Out of about 20 pots I tried it in, only one didn't solve the problem. I have a feeling it might be a damage or bad pot though. I even used it only computer speaker volume knob and the volume knob for my Amplitube Stealth pedal. It started to get a bit addictive until I had nothing more to use it on. You use it by simply taking the knob off the top and spraying with the little nozzle at the seam between the shaft and the body of the pot. You will need to create a sprayshield with a paper towel, cause otherwise it will get everywhere. Then twist the shaft through the full range of motion a dozen times or so. You sometimes get a feel for when all the gunk is gone. Repeat if necessary. Usually its not even needed. Then put your knob back on and its good to go. Dozens of videos on youtube if you have no idea what I am talking about. I have read that you should not use WD-40 as it is a lubricant and not at all the same sort of thing.
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Apr 25, 2018 23:31
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Kilometers Davis posted:I’ve settled on lights for everything. Sounds best to me and forces me to stay relaxed. Ok i quickly pooped out a little riff to solo over. Here's the wav file and a soundcloud link for anyone who cares to listen without downloading it. Just put the wav file on repeat https://soundcloud.com/lfranco321/f-minor-solo-background https://www.dropbox.com/s/t5t7wqwm5ofhlrn/F%23%20Minor%20Solo%20Background.wav?dl=0 Key is F# minor starts with simple f#/a diad to A maj7 then down to a little sixes thing still staying in the key, roots at D then c# then D (B-D, A-c#, B-D), then a turnaround with an augmented arpeggio going D/F/A/D So barebones roots are F#m, Amaj7, D, C#, D, turnaround (I'm playing this in B standard hence the low range) I may upload more if I can quickly think of other stuff Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Apr 26, 2018 |
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Apr 26, 2018 00:34
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Okay I replaced the strings with new, lower gauge ones. Sounds much better and it's now way easier to play  I'm noticing some subtle buzzing from a couple of strings though. Seems to be coming from the bridge/saddle, I think? Is it just a case of them needing to settle or something? E: seems to be gone now, I think. Or maybe it was just my imagination because it sounded so much duller before 
Mak0rz fucked around with this message at 03:06 on Apr 26, 2018 |
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Apr 26, 2018 03:03
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Spanish Manlove posted:Ok i quickly pooped out a little riff to solo over. Here's the wav file and a soundcloud link for anyone who cares to listen without downloading it. Just put the wav file on repeat HELL YEAH BROTHER those riffs are great. I’ll see what I can come up with and post it up. I guess I’ll use modeling software since that’s easy. Hopefully it doesn’t dropkick my creativity. If anyone else wants to join in do it! 
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Apr 26, 2018 04:00
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Why yes, I do believe I'll try to join in! And if it's in B-standard, that's a great chance for me to practice leads on the baritone!Spanish Manlove posted:https://soundcloud.com/lfranco321/f-minor-solo-background  Brutal, man. I think I'm going to slink away and work on "Polly Wolly Doddle" for a while. Very... slowly...
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Apr 26, 2018 05:38
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Ugh I’m kind of wanting a 7 string again lately and this B standard stuff never helps
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Apr 26, 2018 05:42
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Hope you guys can find some use out of it and find something cool. Any requests for something similar in a different key/mode?
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Apr 26, 2018 05:48
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Anyone have opinions on GuitarFetish/Xaviere guitars, specifically the hollows and semi-hollows? Tried reading back in the thread like 10 or so pages, checked OP and didn't see anything mentioning them. I know their pickups are liked enough, and I've had good luck with those already. I'm under no impression that I'm gonna be getting a $1k+ guitar for $200, but I've read reviews that range from "perfect in every way" to "cat piss on dog poo poo" to "very okay". Bad quality control, or bad internet opinions? Appreciate any responses, I'm just jonesin' for a guitar that's a good bit different from what I have already and got a fuckin' fat tax return. Was looking at the XV-950 because gently caress it why not.
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Apr 26, 2018 20:01
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I liked mine
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Apr 26, 2018 20:34
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Rotten Cookies posted:Appreciate any responses, I'm just jonesin' for a guitar that's a good bit different from what I have already and got a fuckin' fat tax return. Was looking at the XV-950 because gently caress it why not. I've been pretty sorely tempted by the XV-950 too so let us know how you like it.
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Apr 26, 2018 22:24
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Spanish Manlove posted:The inside of a guitar is pretty easy to fix. I wanted to take a break from like hour 5 of replacing the electronics on my guitar to say that I hate you.
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Apr 27, 2018 01:22
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Ultra beginner question. I inherited a 12 string acousic-electric guitar. This thing: http://mitchellguitars.com/product/mitchell-md100s12e-guitar/ What is acoustic-electric? Does it hook up to an amp? It has a battery pack on the inside, but I'd have to unstring the guitar to replace the battery, which would be a pain in the rear end. Is it worth the effort? I've just been playing it acoustically, and it sounds fine.
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Apr 27, 2018 03:02
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