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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-1-4-and-3-8-in-Drive-Torx-Bit-Socket-Set-11-Piece-HTXBS11PCSR/203559459 15 bucks with lifetime warranty. They're not as strong as the snap ons but you can buy almost 3 full sets for the price of 1 snap on socket.
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Apr 27, 2018 00:10
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builds character posted:Also look at the mercedes metris - I have a friend who went into a dealership just looking and ended up buying one for way less than retail and he really likes it. My work bought these as their new fleet vehicles to replace our current Tacoma + topper setup, and not even a year in one's been written off after going 80km/h down a washboard road up north. What I heard is they were going to a reserve, down your typical gravel road only about 2.5 hours out of the city and no one had told them the road wasn't done yet, so it got super lovely all of a sudden. Everything up front on the metris suspension wise was toast, some bent components too but I don't know the extent of it. We'd done the same trip with Tacos for years, no issues. Small truck chat: Rangers are great, Nissan's/Tacos you'll be paying more for parts so that's always turned me off of them. The best light truck I've owned was an 88 chevy s10. They're kind of hard to come by nowadays but not impossible. Try looking further out for Rangers. Around here a decent one goes for 5k and a really nice one is about 9. Have you considered a roof tent for your Wrangler?
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Apr 27, 2018 00:35
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Breakfast Feud posted:My work bought these as their new fleet vehicles to replace our current Tacoma + topper setup, and not even a year in one's been written off after going 80km/h down a washboard road up north. What I heard is they were going to a reserve, down your typical gravel road only about 2.5 hours out of the city and no one had told them the road wasn't done yet, so it got super lovely all of a sudden. Everything up front on the metris suspension wise was toast, some bent components too but I don't know the extent of it. We'd done the same trip with Tacos for years, no issues. Regarding mileage, what mileage should I start avoiding? I was thinking 60k or less, but that seems to mean I will have to be incredibly lucky or pay quite a bit more. Should I fear trucks with more that 100k? Rangers are hard to find in regular cab with 4x4 as well, but I have months to sit and look. I never considered a rooftop tent, but I already have a normal tent I'm using. I don't thing a rooftop tent will do anything extra for me.
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Apr 27, 2018 01:01
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The Gardenator posted:Dealership came back with the issue being the Front wheel Hub assembly. I am currently trying to get them to guarantee that this is the issue and that if not they will warranty the brake issue (and not just the parts replaced). Brake pedal is hard at the bottom, I don't think the issue is the Hub assembly. One of the more common ABS issues is a wheel speed sensor failure; on GMs, that's often part of the wheel hub. Having a bad wheel speed sensor (usually) also takes out your traction control. To be honest, that's what my mind first went to when you said your mechanic said the ABS controller was bad.
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Apr 27, 2018 02:18
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Nyyen posted:Regarding mileage, what mileage should I start avoiding? I was thinking 60k or less, but that seems to mean I will have to be incredibly lucky or pay quite a bit more. Should I fear trucks with more that 100k? Rangers are hard to find in regular cab with 4x4 as well, but I have months to sit and look. How long do you plan on owning it for, and how bad is rust in your area? Also, the age of the truck will come into play. My old work bought a cheap 3 year old Transit Connect with some ludicrous amount of miles because it was a courier that owned it. Some premature wear and tear and weird failures happened like a coolant hose bursting and the muffler making GBS threads out its lining but the cost of repair still made it worth owning. It's still running in their fleet, 4 years later. I'd own a high mileage newer vehicle, but I'd go into it anticipating repairs sooner than later. With used trucks (and cars) it's super hard to say what your truck's life expectancy is going to be. Bought a 97 ranger with 180k km on the clock which proceeded to blow the head gasket almost immediately. Bought an 88 s10 with over 200k km and it leaked a bunch but it ran until I used it to pull a vehicle 300lbs heavier than it out of a snowbank. My current dodge is an 84, sat in a field for 15 years and has under 50k km. It leaks oil a bunch but it runs pretty well overall. Go over it with a fine tooth comb when you see it. Rust on the fuel lines, brake lines, make note if everything looks rusted together especially the suspension - a big sign it's been neglected. A lot of sellers will clean the engine bay real nice if a truck leaks but if you get under it with a flashlight the areas by the top of the bellhousing and near the driveshaft are good indicators. Check all the fluids, etc.
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Apr 27, 2018 03:00
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Breakfast Feud posted:How long do you plan on owning it for, and how bad is rust in your area? Also, the age of the truck will come into play. My old work bought a cheap 3 year old Transit Connect with some ludicrous amount of miles because it was a courier that owned it. Some premature wear and tear and weird failures happened like a coolant hose bursting and the muffler making GBS threads out its lining but the cost of repair still made it worth owning. It's still running in their fleet, 4 years later. I'd own a high mileage newer vehicle, but I'd go into it anticipating repairs sooner than later. I'm headed to Minnesota so rust is likely a big deal. I was hoping to own it till the wheels fell off or my life situation changed. I tend to be nice to my cars and keep the mileage low due to bike commuting and being a cheapass.
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Apr 27, 2018 03:26
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Hey, I got my control arms back on and afterwards discovered I now have a spot in the steering wheel both directions that clunks/makes the wheel jump a bit. It is worse on the right side. It doesn't clunk at any other point in the rotation and will only make the noise if you have switched sides. Here's a video of the problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FVsICcgoyFw. I should also mention right after I finished it and went inside my dad went to look at it and turned the wheel so hard he broke the column lock not realizing the key wasn't in it (Manual steering) not sure if that's related.
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Apr 27, 2018 03:51
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Let's talk adhesive remover. Whoever had this car before me didn't realize the clogged sunroof drains were causing the interior leaks; instead they put tape over the side rails of the roof, plus the top of the windshield and back window. Sunroof is unclogged now; no leaks inside. I've tried "Oops!", with a pretty rough old bath towel, and it really didn't remove much (that poo poo will normally take anything off of anything, and carries defatting warnings). Any suggestions? The paint's a 50 ft job at best (original, but chipped and peeling; thankfully the plastic body under it is the same color). It looks like it had duct tape for a year or two on it.
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Apr 27, 2018 08:52
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There's an aerosol spray from 3M that's simply labeled as adhesive remover. It's worked OK for me in the past. Spray, Let it soak a few minutes, spray some more, then deal with a gooey mess to scrape off. It was cheap from an auto parts store iirc.
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Apr 27, 2018 10:54
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Have you tried WD-40? It's Goof-Off at 100th of the price.
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Apr 27, 2018 13:52
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Has anyone here used ASAP's mobile tire mounting/balancing service? My wife's car needs some new tires, and if I can avoid a trip to the shop it's totally worth the cost to me. ($100 for four wheels, but shipping is free instead of thirty bucks, no shop fee for mounting and balancing, plus time is money, blah blah blah.) If anyone has thoughts on Altimax RT43s versus Michelin Premier A/Ses for a 2015 Fit, I'll take that too. I have the latter on my Forester and am happy with them, but there's no other tire in stock size that rates as well as it. For the Fit, though, people seem pretty happy with the Altimaxes. Thirty bucks premium per tire seems steep, though given how great the Michelins are at wet braking I guess it only takes one five-foot-too-long stop to regret that decision. =)
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Apr 27, 2018 16:42
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STR posted:Let's talk adhesive remover. Gas?
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Apr 27, 2018 16:58
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Nyyen posted:I have months to sit and look. Regarding cab size, my Ranger has the "Extended" and the backseat is tiny. It's quite useful as a place to keep things that I might want or need while I'm driving, and as a secure place to leave things - my lid doesn't lock. The extra space up front is useful, but whenever I put a person back there I feel bad. Rust is life. Rust is death. Rust is eternal. Unless you fly down to Arizona or something and drive back in a time capsule.
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Apr 27, 2018 17:14
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Twerk from Home posted:4x4 minivans aren't really a thing other than the recent, expensive AWD Toyota Sienna or the old as gently caress Toyota Previa.
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Apr 27, 2018 18:47
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Are brake rotor dust shields really that important? Just changed out my fronts and noticed that driver's side front dust shield was pretty much non-existent. I'm pretty sure I've seen them at cock auto, for cheap, though at a cursory glance I can't seem to find them, but........ Ummmm yeah, are they really that important?
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Apr 27, 2018 21:42
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I mean all my older cars never had dust shields so they aren't essential but it allows road dirt and debris (or salt if you live up north) onto your brakes so if they are cheap you may as well get them to make future brake jobs easier.
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Apr 27, 2018 21:53
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Breakfast Feud posted:Rangers are great, Nissan's/Tacos you'll be paying more for parts so that's always turned me off of them. The best light truck I've owned was an 88 chevy s10. They're kind of hard to come by nowadays but not impossible. Try looking further out for Rangers. Around here a decent one goes for 5k and a really nice one is about 9. I had an '89 S-10. The words "Iron Duke" make my eye twitch. If you do it, get the V6.
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Apr 28, 2018 00:13
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GD_American posted:I had an '89 S-10. The words "Iron Duke" make my eye twitch. Also, don't get the 60 degree v6.
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Apr 28, 2018 00:24
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More poo poo not in the goddamn repair manual for my ram van: Odometer didn't work on purchase. Opened it up, found an exploded plastic gear, located and ordered a replacement gear, inserted said gear. Odometer still not rolling. What next?
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Apr 28, 2018 04:22
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Javid posted:More poo poo not in the goddamn repair manual for my ram van: Odometer is seized and exploded the replacement gear?
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Apr 28, 2018 04:33
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Odometer is seized and exploded the replacement gear? Not that I can tell. I drove it a mile or so, then took it apart again to check for that very outcome.
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Apr 28, 2018 04:40
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Not sure what year your van is but I had to do that repair on my VW which is fully mechanical. If yours is too I would first take it off the odometer and spin it by hand and make sure it actually works and if not figure out where stuff stops spinning, gears either seized/cracked or just free-spinning on their shafts can both cause this. Free-spinning gears can be fixed by just roughing up the shaft and pushing it on (don't do this to the ones connected directly to the numbers). If it does work make sure the cable from the trans to the odometer is good and not binding or rounded off or something. You can use a drill to spin the odometer if you want but go slow for obvious reasons.
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 04:47 on Apr 28, 2018 |
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Apr 28, 2018 04:41
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There's no cable, it's run by a little electric motor that drives the gear. Everything SEEMS to spin freely, though there's no real way to spin it manually. The odo is built into the speedometer (which does work) and both appear to be entirely electrical.
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Apr 28, 2018 04:49
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So the signal is coming from the rest of the system fine. Can you pull off the motor and see if the rest spins ok? Alternatively if you know the voltage the motor runs at put some power into it and see if it spins (be very careful with this 12v will kill it).
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 05:22 on Apr 28, 2018 |
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Apr 28, 2018 04:55
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Autoexec.bat posted:So the signal is coming from the rest of the system fine. Can you pull off the motor and see if the rest spins ok? Alternatively if you know the voltage the motor runs at put some power into it and see if it spins (be very careful with this 12v will kill it). I can spin the mechanism fine with the motor removed; don't know the motor voltage or even how to find that out, and probably lack the equipment to power it if I did.
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Apr 28, 2018 05:20
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That's probably for the best. When turning it by hand does the mileage increase? The motor is likely fine since you said the speedo works.
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Apr 28, 2018 05:24
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Yeah, it increases the mileage. I added the two miles I drove loving with it. :v It's a different motor than whatever thing works the speedo arm. Here's what I'm dealing with here:   
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Apr 28, 2018 05:38
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That makes a lot more sense and is different than the one I saw a picture of. If I had to guess your odometer motor is likely toast. The only solutions I can think to test it for sure are all a bit sketchy but basically you either need to apply power to the motor to check the motor or make the trans spin so you can check voltage from the control board to the motor. Personally I would start by applying a single AA (1.5v) and see if it spins, two in series if nothing happens. Ideally with the motor disconnected from the circuit so it doesn't back-feed and break something else. Although if anyone else here knows a better way to test the motor/signal in this situation please chime in. I also may be crazy enough to chock it and jack up the drive wheels then read the control voltages while it idles in gear  you should probably not do that.
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Apr 28, 2018 05:55
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It's soldered to the board, so yeah. I was really hoping I did something wrong and this wasn't another case of "go find something nobody makes or sells anymore". gently caress.
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Apr 28, 2018 06:02
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You're telling me, my project is also a Chrysler product and is 7 years older. I am not ready to tackle my cluster since the tach only works 50% of the time, the fuel gauge 75% of the time, and none of the lights work except the parking brake indicator and if you rev it enough the left turn signal works for a while. At least the temp gauge/speedo/odometer work. Your van was a '92 Ram Van right?
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Apr 28, 2018 06:07
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Yep. This thing doesn't even have a tach 
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Apr 28, 2018 06:16
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There are a bunch of used clusters on Car-Part.com from a quick search.. Search 1992 Dodge Ram 250 Van Speedometer -> Head only (MPH) I'm sure one of those yards will ship you one and if you're lucky one may be nearby. Just steal the motor or use the other one and change the numbers to match your old one.
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Apr 28, 2018 06:20
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Oh yeah, a place near me has like the second cheapest A-grade cluster they have listed, which is nice. I just hate junkyard parts for this kind of failure because who knows if it's gonna fail in the same way in another 500 miles.
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Apr 28, 2018 06:25
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Well sure, but that's the thing about less desirable cars that are over 25 years old. You just can't get new parts sometimes. Heck I can't even buy a rear bumper for my Turismo anywhere in the state of Georgia in any color used. At least motors don't fail often and you can solder it over if you don't trust the junkyard circuit board.
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Apr 28, 2018 06:32
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Yeah, it's just annoying. Can't do poo poo on that until Monday, so here's another one: One of my rear doors leaks; the rubber weather seal is apparently irreplaceable, as it's not even listed on car-part or anywhere else. A window shop squirted some caulking type stuff behind the seal on that door and it stopped leaking, but now the leak has moved to the other door. However, my leak testing involves a garden hose and a volunteer, so gently caress knows how much it resembles actual rainfall. Other poo poo that has never leaked in the worst rainstorm was dribbling water while she was blasting the rear of the van with it, so whatever. The leak is really fun, too; PO informed me of it and showed me the plastic he had duct taped in that spot to keep it diverted; I had it parked for 3 weeks in varying degrees of rain and went out every day to look for water intrusion, without success. Eventually wrote it off as him just being a moron (other things he said did not work, do) but then a couple weeks later it rained again and the door was puking water everywhere. Eventually narrowed it down to parking pointed uphill vs. downhill, uphill the gutter rim thing on the roof causes water to accumulate in that spot with no drains and it leaks, downhill the water all drains out the front of the gutters way forward where it's not an issue. This is actually my single worst issue right now, since a leak into the interior holds up the entire rest of the camper build plan. The best part is the roof vent, which is missing and its hole is capped by a bucket lid, a piece of wood, and a couple screws. And THAT doesn't leak at all. ...I guess I don't actually have a question, that was just a rant. E: no wait! I remembered an actual question! This thing needs front brake pads soon. I'm looking at the options and I see that there's normal and heavy/towing pads. I will probably tow occasionally but not as a regular thing, do I need the towing pads to haul anything at all, or is it just a case of extra wear on the normal ones if I tow with them? Javid fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Apr 28, 2018 |
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Apr 28, 2018 07:08
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Not or. And. This is definitely an and situation.
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Apr 28, 2018 14:05
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Temperamental  question:I have an '00 Jaguar XK8 Convertible (65,000 miles), had a ton of work done late last year (just in time to go into storage for the winter). Timing chain/guides/tensioners, thermostat & housing, water pump, spark plugs, a dying coil, you name it. The coil was replaced as I was occasionally getting put into "limp home", after which I'd get a code indicating misfire on Cyl 8. Cut to this week, I'm out and about and the car misfires, goes into limp home again and throws two codes - one for random misfire and one for misfire excessive emissions. As I was stopped by the side of the road with the engine running and googling the codes, limp home stops and the car is back to normal again. I'd thought it might be a fuel issue - the pump is audible while the engine is running which seems wrong. It's like a quiet high pitched squeal - if you've ever heard an alternator interfering with a radio it sounds like that. The sound does not vary with throttle input, though. I changed the fuel filter in the hopes that there might be a simple blockage to clear; no dice. I guess I'd be happy to just disregard this as a hissyfit from an 18 year old Euro car if it weren't for the sound... Any thoughts? Is the fuel pump on the way out? I'm not having issues starting the car or applying load so 
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Apr 28, 2018 14:43
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Check the easy stuff first. Make sure the fuel filter(s) are clean and flowing freely. Check and see if there's an evap valve or something on that model that is known to go bad. Make sure you top off the electrical smoke reservoir with genuine Lucas electrical smoke fluid.
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Apr 28, 2018 15:00
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Javid posted:Yeah, it's just annoying. With some research you can likely find a replacement rubber seal that is similar enough to work. I am surprised no one makes them but you could take a generic one and cut it at an angle where needed and RTV it back together as a short term fix.That and lots of silicon and your leaks should be fixable. As for brakes I believe the heavy duty ones are usually ceramic which is just better in general (quieter, less dusty, etc) and most importantly they heat up less from what I hear which is good for towing. You could use cheaper ones for short tows but I usually don't go cheap on brakes especially on heavier vehicles.
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Apr 28, 2018 15:51
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MrYenko posted:Make sure you top off the electrical smoke reservoir with genuine Lucas electrical smoke fluid. I googled this but only found commercial application results. What is an electrical smoke reservoir for a car? Where is it located usually? I've never heard of this. Almost makes me feel like I'm getting punked with the "Blinker Fluid" joke.
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Apr 28, 2018 16:10
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