|
tangy yet delightful posted:You would be better off with low expansion foam for that small of a hole. Don't try and stop the foam expanding, just cut the foam flush after it dries. What is the material that the hole is in? It looks like a ceiling tile to me. Its some sort of gritty, almost chalk like material. Its rough, but feels hallow and you can easily scratch it with your nail. This is the garage wall. 
Leal fucked around with this message at 14:33 on Apr 25, 2018 |
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 14:28
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 00:56 |
|
|
Leal posted:I'm looking to fill a hole about 1/2 - 1 inch in diameter Is that EIFS? If so, they do make repair kits for it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 14:42
|
|
|
glynnenstein posted:Is that EIFS? If so, they do make repair kits for it. Trying to see what EIFS looks like through google and all I'm getting are exteriors of buildings and a diagram of all the layers that make up EIFS. But this wall doesn't have any of that, its just this gray concrete and wire mesh. Articles say if you knock on it it would sound hallow if its EIFS, but it feels like knocking on a normal wall to me. No "styrofoam-like" board across the hole, just one solid material.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 15:14
|
|
|
Leal posted:Trying to see what EIFS looks like through google and all I'm getting are exteriors of buildings and a diagram of all the layers that make up EIFS. But this wall doesn't have any of that, its just this gray concrete and wire mesh. Articles say if you knock on it it would sound hallow if its EIFS, but it feels like knocking on a normal wall to me. No "styrofoam-like" board across the hole, just one solid material. Yeah, your second picture shows it isn't EIFS. It might be cement board for water issues if it's on a garage wall.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 15:24
|
|
|
Leal posted:gray concrete and wire mesh Sounds like stucco to me.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 15:59
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sounds like stucco to me. Hm, so should I still use a (low expansion) foam to fix a hole this small, or should I grab some stucco patch instead?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 16:34
|
|
|
You could probably patch a hole that small with caulk (though 1" diameter would really be pushing it). It's mostly a question of how durable you want the patch to be and how much you care about appearances. I guess also if you care about maintaining a fire barrier -- stucco is nonflammable, unlike foam/caulk.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 16:51
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I got a problem at one of my work locations and I can't figure it out. There is a horrid smell at this hair salon and I can't find it. To me it smells like sewer gas. I've topped off every drain trap even the floor ones and checked every cleanout cap for cracks. I peeked in every cabinet and behind all the furniture to make sure some critter didn't die in an out of the way place. I checked above the drop ceiling. I even checked the kid toys to make sure some little poo poo didn't forget his lunch in there. What's left to check? Salons use crazy chemicals... maybe someone's accidentally breaking a bunch of hair clippings down in a bucket somewhere?
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 18:26
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:I got a problem at one of my work locations and I can't figure it out. There is a horrid smell at this hair salon and I can't find it. To me it smells like sewer gas. I've topped off every drain trap even the floor ones and checked every cleanout cap for cracks. I peeked in every cabinet and behind all the furniture to make sure some critter didn't die in an out of the way place. I checked above the drop ceiling. I even checked the kid toys to make sure some little poo poo didn't forget his lunch in there. What's left to check? Have you tried borrowing a dog? Dogs love finding gross smells.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 20:14
|
|
|
Is there some sort of larger crimping tool I can use to crimp something like this?  The wire is 1/8" but the barrels they need to be crimped to are killing my wrists.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 20:54
|
|
|
Sanctum posted:Is there some sort of larger crimping tool I can use to crimp something like this? You're looking for a hydraulic crimping tool. https://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 21:14
|
|
|
Got a quote from a real fence company for $980. They actually have insurance and all that. Nice.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2018 21:36
|
|
|
yippee cahier posted:Salons use crazy chemicals... maybe someone's accidentally breaking a bunch of hair clippings down in a bucket somewhere? Not ours. We don't do hair coloring or straightening, so our strongest stuff is barbicide. The store isn't big enough for something to get placed out of the way. Still, I think I tracked down the smell to the air vents. I called out our HVAC guy. He got on the roof and noticed that somebody removed not just ours, but all the filters on all the RTUs on the center. So his best guess is that without a filter, we were sucking in the smell from the grocery store dumpsters right behind there. I hope it goes away.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 00:48
|
|
|
So my landlord is a bit of an absentee doofus/slumlord and I'm getting out of here in a few months. I was cleaning my filthy dryer vent because I had all the warning signs of a clogged dryer vent and I realized there was a hole cut in the basement bathroom because the dryer was venting through the basement ceiling back into the basement! I just want to get out of this place at this point, can I just install this guy? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q4X2FS...la-350606797178
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 12:39
|
|
|
Gumbel2Gumbel posted:So my landlord is a bit of an absentee doofus/slumlord and I'm getting out of here in a few months. Is it an electric dryer? If so, that will kinda work for now.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 15:00
|
|
|
I have a strip of dirt/grass that runs along my driveway, between my driveway and my fence, about 6 inches wide and about 10 feet long. At the end of that, the fence turns 45 degrees, so there is a larger triangular patch (about 2x2x3).  Dark Grey is my driveway, Brown is the dirt area in question, White is the fence, Green is my yard, and Light Grey is the Sidewalk A few years ago I put down landscape fabric and lava rocks, because to hell with trying to mow something like that. I put up small decorative fencing to keep the rocks in and that was OK, but this year I have decided to hell with the whole mess and I just want to concrete and not worry about it again. I have removed the rocks and some of the dirt and am planning to level out the area. Looking at the edges of the sidewalk, it seems that this was probably concrete and square prior to the fence going up. A few quick questions as this is my first time working with something like this. 1) First stupid question, concrete is what I want to put in, right? This is not going to be driven on or really see much foot traffic. 2) Clearing away the dirt, it looks like the existing sidewalk/driveway goes down about 2 inches. Should I be going that thick with this area? 3) Is there anything else I need to be wary of, other than hoping for a span of a few clear, dry, above freezing days weather wise? For something this size do I have to be worried about expansion/contraction? ED: Should probably add that this is in Wisconsin, so all 4 seasons are a thing here. CzarChasm fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Apr 26, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 15:09
|
|
|
Motronic posted:Is it an electric dryer? If so, that will kinda work for now. Yes it's electric. I vacuumed what I could out of the first few feet of pipe and the dryer is already working much better, but I still would rather spend $60 and use this for a few months.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 15:22
|
|
|
So, my termite exterminator and I are not getting along well (Oh you're one day late on finishing up your contract payment, you now how to pay another full price contract!), and I'm swarming again this year. I know where they are (mostly) and know most of the signs of termites are. I was planning on going under the house with some Termidor Foam and probably in a few weeks will get some of the Termidor SC to mix and trench around the fireplace and a few of the pillars under the house, and anywhere else I might see the tunneling up any brick (It's an old house, brick underpinning and brick pillars on the foundations). Is there anything else I can do? Would bait stations work in lieu of the trenching, or just forget about those?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 16:52
|
|
|
CzarChasm posted:I have a strip of dirt/grass that runs along my driveway, between my driveway and my fence, about 6 inches wide and about 10 feet long. At the end of that, the fence turns 45 degrees, so there is a larger triangular patch (about 2x2x3). You're going to want at least 4" thick concrete if you think a car might touch it, with rebar.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 18:20
|
|
|
Put the lava rocks back 
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 18:31
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Put the lava rocks back Why?
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 23:00
|
|
|
CzarChasm posted:Why? Sorry for the short reply there, kinda going off FogHelmut's point that you need 4" concrete with rebar (or perhaps fibermesh would be enough) and that would need to be poured on top of a compacted gravel base. So to do concrete right that'll be a fair bit of work and putting back the rocks you still own would be much easier. But hey if you really hate the look and/or want the extra driveway space.
|
|
#
?
Apr 26, 2018 23:20
|
|
|
Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Yes it's electric. I vacuumed what I could out of the first few feet of pipe and the dryer is already working much better, but I still would rather spend $60 and use this for a few months. Okay, as long as you aren't signing up for carbon monoxide poisoning (gas dryer) go for it. It's not optimal but if that's what you got to work with......
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 02:24
|
|
|
tangy yet delightful posted:Sorry for the short reply there, kinda going off FogHelmut's point that you need 4" concrete with rebar (or perhaps fibermesh would be enough) and that would need to be poured on top of a compacted gravel base. So to do concrete right that'll be a fair bit of work and putting back the rocks you still own would be much easier. This is really just aesthetics. The only conceivable way for a car to be driving on this patch of concrete would be if they are either A) Barrelling down the sidewalk like a maniac or B) Purposely aiming for that section of fence. I suppose if one were to try backing out of my driveway, and cut the wheel sharply about 6 feet ahead of the slope into the street (and again, onto the sidewalk) you could do it. I mean, if you are really determined to put a car there, it can be done, but it would not be the intended goal.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 03:52
|
|
|
If the area is as small as you have listed---10x.5 and 2x2/2 is 7sqft. At 2" deep you are you are looking at three bags of concrete. Build the forms (can probably use 1x3's), mix up some concrete, dump it in, spread the concrete with a large trowel, if you want to get fancy make sure your forms are lower on the street and the curb side to ensure the finished concrete drains away from your fence, and drag a 2x4 across the forms to smooth the concrete. That small of a job it will probably take more time installing the forms than spreading the concrete. But, as others have said--you want 4" over gravel. If you are in area that freezes and putting 2" of concrete on dirt--don't expect it to last. Not the end of the world though--taking a sledge hammer to 7sqft of 2" cracked concrete will be a quick job when you need to remove it to get the right depth. If/when the 2" concrete cracks, get 1x6's to use as your forms. Dig down at least the 5.5", put gravel in the forms up to the 4" mark and then get 5 to 6 80lb bags of concrete and repeat the above steps. Best of all, you'll be a pro at smoothing out the concrete on your 2nd round.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 06:01
|
|
|
What's the quickest, easiest way to remove "carpet tack"? I don't need to remove the carpet just the tack around all the baseboards. (I also don't particularly care about putting it back afterwards) Apparently my apartment building has bedbugs  and I was given a list of things to do to prepare for the treatment. I called the office and asked how the hell do I remove carpet tack, but they said not to worry about that specific instruction. gently caress that, I want to do every single thing on the list.I have a hammer and uh, a few screwdrivers. Please help.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 06:24
|
|
|
shits.ridic posted:What's the quickest, easiest way to remove "carpet tack"? What? I mean you remove the tack strips with a crowbar per nail, but that doesn't sound like a thing you should do. Put the bar under the nail, whack it with a hammer and it will pop up. Don't do this, I bet they mean rip the carpet off the tack?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 06:31
|
|
|
H110Hawk posted:What? I mean you remove the tack strips with a crowbar per nail, but that doesn't sound like a thing you should do. Put the bar under the nail, whack it with a hammer and it will pop up. Whoops, you're correct. I just reread the thing and it says "remove carpet from tack strip" So all I have to do is rip it up with my hands, then? What gloves would you buy for this task because I don't own a single pair and I know there's like a thousand kinds at Lowes. I want to get it over with ASAP
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 06:43
|
|
|
Don't worry about it, they'll deal with it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 06:49
|
|
|
Wasabi the J posted:Don't worry about it, they'll deal with it. No they won't because the bug people are contractors and apparently not allowed to do anything but spray/fog. My neighbor told me today that they came to treat her apt last week but wouldn't do it. She was told the problem was that she had forgotten to strip the linens from her bed at the last minute before leaving for work. When the guys got there they wouldn't take her sheets off, so she was deemed unprepared and missed her entire "spot" and has to wait for the next time they come to the property which is only once a week (Fridays). I only got my notice yesterday and probably won't be ready for them because I really want to pull up the carpet edges and I definitely have to rip the mesh fabric things off the bottom of all my furniture + boxspring. And I'm tired. The only one who would do this task besides me is the maintenance crew and they clearly don't give a drat; they won't even fix my electrical outlets.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 07:05
|
|
|
Getting the carpet off the tack strips ins't the hard part... it's getting the carpet reattached to the strips. Do you have an active infestation? Or is it just preventive maintenance? And/or do you know if a neighbor you share a wall with has an infestation?
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 07:58
|
|
|
Your landlord better be reimbursing you for all this poo poo that you're having to destroy. It's probably some pro bono lawyer who would have a hard-on hearing this poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 15:37
|
|
|
They aren't reimbursing anything and neither is my renter's insurance, I checked. HycoCam posted:Getting the carpet off the tack strips ins't the hard part... it's getting the carpet reattached to the strips. Do you have an active infestation? Or is it just preventive maintenance? And/or do you know if a neighbor you share a wall with has an infestation? I don't care about getting it back on, that's their problem. I just want to make sure the chemicals are able to penetrate the perimeter of every room because even residual chemical will kill/inhibit growth so even if they try to move in on me they won't make it. Hopefully. Even if my apartment weren't infested I'd still need treatment because they go through walls and ceiling fixtures so they could be fleeing a neighbor and coming for me. Especially since we're not all being treated at the same time. And yeah, now that the sun's up I could see that I am infested. In the second bedroom (only used for storage currently) I can see signs of them on walls/ceiling.  The office said "they're in the whole building" and that's 16 units total. The list does say "only do all this poo poo in infested rooms." But it also says to do these things in every room because the entire apartment is being treated. I just want to rip the carpet out and need to buy gloves. Should I get those ones that are like thick suede or whatever? I tried ripping some with my bare hands. gently caress, that was hard
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 16:35
|
|
|
shits.ridic posted:They aren't reimbursing anything and neither is my renter's insurance, I checked. Cut a diagonal hole in the corner of the carpet with a box cutter and use it as a handle. It'll tear up really easily
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 17:10
|
|
|
shits.ridic posted:No they won't because the bug people are contractors and apparently not allowed to do anything but spray/fog. My neighbor told me today that they came to treat her apt last week but wouldn't do it. She was told the problem was that she had forgotten to strip the linens from her bed at the last minute before leaving for work. How long after they poison your bed is it safe to then sleep on it? (You know, put your face into it and breathe deeply for 8 hours at a stretch.) Do you have a list of chemicals? I get the apartment not wanting to be responsible for tenant contents (bed linens), but they should be handling the carpet tear up. That is hard work, and getting it back on without the right tools is dependent on if the carpet has relaxed/stretched into the shape of your room or not. If it hasn't you need a carpet stretcher to actually get it onto there. Gloves: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Firm-Grip-Large-General-Purpose-Gloves-2001L/100249720 - I have those and they are fine for general purpose work. You want something that isn't the cheapest, fits snugly, and is comfortable.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 17:12
|
|
|
I didn't want to go into this for fear of derailing with general renter's woes or whatever, but just for context on how dumb they are: I have learned that in November 2017 (annual pest inspection time) signs of bedbugs were spotted in someone's apartment. I don't know whose, or if the unit was even occupied at the time but it turns out nothing was done. Nobody in the office paid attention to the pest control reports apparently? Idiots. So here we are six months later and everyone needs to be treated and this morning I saw a huge purple leather couch in the dumpster. Could my own tomato-red recliner be next?  So yeah, the management sucks at managing their property. That's how we got to this point and that's why they do things like tell me to rip up the carpet but say they won't help but then tell me nevermind don't bother ripping up the carpet. I don't have faith in these people. H110Hawk posted:How long after they poison your bed is it safe to then sleep on it? (You know, put your face into it and breathe deeply for 8 hours at a stretch.) Do you have a list of chemicals? I get the apartment not wanting to be responsible for tenant contents (bed linens), but they should be handling the carpet tear up. That is hard work, and getting it back on without the right tools is dependent on if the carpet has relaxed/stretched into the shape of your room or not. If it hasn't you need a carpet stretcher to actually get it onto there. Thanks for the glove help. I had option paralysis or whatever it's called. I can't get answers about the poison being used except to say that the unit must be vacated for 4 hours. Gumbel2Gumbel posted:Cut a diagonal hole in the corner of the carpet with a box cutter and use it as a handle. Thank you this sounds like a lifesaver. Folks if I can't get the carpet up without a stretcher then I guess it's not coming up. But I promise you the apartment maintenance definitely won't be doing it. I sure do feel great about having signed a new lease on April 1st.  VV Are you referring to the kind where the palm has little black plastic dots all over it, like this? Because I might actually have a pair of those somewhere. VV shits.ridic fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Apr 27, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 17:45
|
|
|
shits.ridic posted:I just want to rip the carpet out and need to buy gloves. Should I get those ones that are like thick suede or whatever? I tried ripping some with my bare hands. gently caress, that was hard I've tried so many different pairs and kinds of work gloves, both leather and synthetic, and keep going back to the cheapo knit gloves with the rubberized palm that extends up and over the fingertips. They stand up better than leather and the rubber portion covers enough to handle water and wet stuff without it getting the gloves wet. When they wear out, my wallet barely feels it unlike fancy leather, crappy Mechanix-style gloves, and those weirdo ones with all the plastic poo poo on em.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 17:55
|
|
|
shits.ridic posted:And yeah, now that the sun's up I could see that I am infested. In the second bedroom (only used for storage currently) I can see signs of them on walls/ceiling. gently caress that's rough. There have been infestations in my building, but luckily never my unit, and it's a horror show. One lady here had an allergic reaction to the bites, including one on her eyelid that made her face swell up and was carried away by paramedics.  She never came back, apparently she just abandoned most of her possessions and moved away after.Don't worry about trying to re-tack the carpet or whatever after, because they will certainly need to come back in a month or two and do it all again. And again. All it takes is one female or a couple eggs to survive the purge and the problem comes back. They are ridiculously hard to eradicate. H110Hawk posted:How long after they poison your bed is it safe to then sleep on it? (You know, put your face into it and breathe deeply for 8 hours at a stretch.) Do you have a list of chemicals? Usually like 4 or 6 hours. Mostly they use pyrethrins which break down very quickly when exposed to light. They aren't spraying long-lasting poisons in people's bedrooms. Which is obviously a mixed blessing, because without a lingering toxic effect anything that isn't killed that day won't be killed. For a longer lasting effect they usually use a mechanical rather than poisonous product, like diatomaceous earth which is basically just silica. It's like a very fine sharp sand/dust. You shouldn't huff it, the particles will irritate the lungs, but it can't stay airborne for more than a few minutes. It doesn't poison the bugs, it slices them up and dehydrates them. Human skin is thick enough it isn't a problem, but it can be irritating thin skinned pets like rodents and can cause problems if your dog snorts it, so don't let your pets play in it. It is very long lasting, being as it's already 12 million years old, so it's great for spreading around in the spaces between the walls and such as a long-term barrier. That's probably why they need the carpet edges untacked, so they can get it into the walls. shits.ridic posted:I didn't want to go into this for fear of derailing with general renter's woes or whatever, but just for context on how dumb they are: Nah, don't bother throwing out your furniture. It won't help.  Bedbugs are attracted to body heat, not upholstery. They don't build cozy nests. When they aren't feeding they are just as happy hanging out in a clock or a light fixture as a bed or couch.For increased peace of mind you can buy your own diatomaceous earth and put a dusting of it on the underside/back/inside of your recliner, dresser, and other large pieces of furniture. It's not flammable or anything, so some paranoid people even put a thin dusting of it inside their electronics (electronics are warm, and so can look attractive to bed bugs looking for a warm mammal to feed on). Any hardware store or garden center should carry it. It's cheap as hell. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_...arth+food+grade Oh, everyone says get the food grade stuff, even though you aren't going to eat it. It's all 80-90% silica, but the food grade stuff guarantees that the other 10-20% isn't going to be anything toxic to have around. A dust mask isn't a bad idea while you are applying it, it isn't toxic and the dust will settle within a few minutes, but you want to avoid inhaling the dust.
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 18:07
|
|
|
Pyrethrins? So it's the same poo poo as flea control products I can get at the grocery store? Really? I feel myself settling into the "my life is over" mindset. This image from google says it all to me 
|
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 18:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 00:56 |
|
|
shits.ridic posted:Pyrethrins? So it's the same poo poo as flea control products I can get at the grocery store? Really? They get a more concentrated version than the consumer grade stuff, but yeah. They can only use stuff that will be completely harmless to mammals within a few hours, which is exactly the same problem flea control products are dealing with. The other alternative is to tent the whole building and move everyone out for a week. You can probably get a listing of exactly what chemicals the company will be using, they may even list it on their website. e: And your life isn't over. It's isn't even going to suck much. Humans lived with bed bugs for thousands of years. Objectively they are no more harmful than mosquitoes or fleas. We just lived without them in much of the first world for 80 years, so the idea of them has gotten really gross. We associate it with filth and poverty, but that's more a coincidence than a cause. I'm not trying to downplay the experience which is horrible and makes you feel like a leper, because people who know won't want to visit your home or let you ride in their car for fear of contamination. But it won't make you sick, you won't die, and things will get better. Facebook Aunt fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Apr 27, 2018 |
|
#
?
Apr 27, 2018 18:37
|
|