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mewse
May 2, 2006

So I ordered a mk2 clone bed (mk42 clone) like a year ago from orballo printing out of spain.

It arrived and it came with standoffs, but not the correct standoffs. It did have the correct countersunk screws tho.

I printed some standoffs out of PETG and I got it all wired up. I had to modify my X motor mount to put the endstop further to the left so the inductive probe would hit the correct dot on the front left of the bed.

After loading a mk2 clone firmware I discovered that the Z axis was basically hardcoded for TR8 drive screws, and my ghetto 5mm threaded rods from Tom's dolly guide weren't going to work.

So it's been on the shelf for months and months, along the way I printed new X motor ends so that I could mount new leadscrews for the Z axis which I finally did it this weekend and guess what!! The clone bed doesn't heat up!!!!!!!

:negative:

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BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


mewse posted:

So I ordered a mk2 clone bed (mk42 clone) like a year ago from orballo printing out of spain.

It arrived and it came with standoffs, but not the correct standoffs. It did have the correct countersunk screws tho.

I printed some standoffs out of PETG and I got it all wired up. I had to modify my X motor mount to put the endstop further to the left so the inductive probe would hit the correct dot on the front left of the bed.

After loading a mk2 clone firmware I discovered that the Z axis was basically hardcoded for TR8 drive screws, and my ghetto 5mm threaded rods from Tom's dolly guide weren't going to work.

So it's been on the shelf for months and months, along the way I printed new X motor ends so that I could mount new leadscrews for the Z axis which I finally did it this weekend and guess what!! The clone bed doesn't heat up!!!!!!!

:negative:

Want a real MK42? I upgraded to MK2.5 and I don't need mine any more. There are a couple of holes in the PEI though. I'm in Edmonton.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

rawrr posted:

I'd just use something like http://dangerousprototypes.com/store/print3d

I've had stuff SLA printed in China and they've been great; they're even hand finished (trimmed and I guess media blasted).

Got any example photos? I'm not seeing much on DangerousPrototype's site.

mewse
May 2, 2006

BMan posted:

Want a real MK42? I upgraded to MK2.5 and I don't need mine any more. There are a couple of holes in the PEI though. I'm in Edmonton.

That would be awesome, I appreciate the offer, but I've ordered a chinese clone bed now and I already own a real mk2s so I'm not really suffering or anything.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
So there is different types of 2020 aluminium extrusion with different gaps and that's important.

Lesson learnt, now to buy some overpriced t-slot nuts

rawrr
Jul 28, 2007

sharkytm posted:

Got any example photos? I'm not seeing much on DangerousPrototype's site.

I don't use them (I order directly from via Taobao), so I can't speak for their quality specifically.

Here's a random video I found comparing them vs shapeways - there are probably more pics and videos if you google for them.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBTaB1unanM

BabelFish
Jul 20, 2013

Fallen Rib
Finished up my prusa MK2 to MK2.5 upgrade, for the $150-$200 you're going to spend on it, it's totally worth it. The bed alone makes getting stiffer prints off much easier, and the new hotend shroud + fan is way quieter.

NeurosisHead
Jul 22, 2007

NONONONONONONONONO
Prusa Mk3 kit showed up today! Got drunk putting together the y axis so now it's bedtime, but I'm excited to keep playing with my new toy!

Lowen SoDium
Jun 5, 2003

Highen Fiber
Clapping Larry
SO need some help troubleshooting my prints.





You can see that the first several layers of this bench are fine, but then it started to print hollow and brittle.

I read that this is caused by underexstrution and that I should try turning up the feed rate from 100% to 105% and increase the temp. I set it to 215.





You can see it made it a lot farther before having issues, but once the bow of the ship gets narrower, it starts messing up again.

Any idea what I should try next?

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

BabelFish posted:

Finished up my prusa MK2 to MK2.5 upgrade, for the $150-$200 you're going to spend on it, it's totally worth it. The bed alone makes getting stiffer prints off much easier, and the new hotend shroud + fan is way quieter.

The Springsteel bed is probably the simplest and best upgrade coming from glass and hair spray.

Stupid_Sexy_Flander
Mar 14, 2007

Is a man not entitled to the haw of his maw?
Grimey Drawer

Lowen SoDium posted:

SO need some help troubleshooting my prints.





You can see that the first several layers of this bench are fine, but then it started to print hollow and brittle.

I read that this is caused by underexstrution and that I should try turning up the feed rate from 100% to 105% and increase the temp. I set it to 215.





You can see it made it a lot farther before having issues, but once the bow of the ship gets narrower, it starts messing up again.

Any idea what I should try next?

Partial clog.

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004

BabelFish posted:

Finished up my prusa MK2 to MK2.5 upgrade, for the $150-$200 you're going to spend on it, it's totally worth it. The bed alone makes getting stiffer prints off much easier, and the new hotend shroud + fan is way quieter.

When did you order and how long did it take to come? It's definitely tempting although I'm not really having any issues with the PEI bed right now. I don't really notice the noise from the hotend fan, where I think my noise comes from is the stepper motors, is there a proven way to quiet those down?

ClassH
Mar 18, 2008

NeurosisHead posted:

Prusa Mk3 kit showed up today! Got drunk putting together the y axis so now it's bedtime, but I'm excited to keep playing with my new toy!

Would love to see some of the prints when you get it all together.

NeurosisHead
Jul 22, 2007

NONONONONONONONONO

ClassH posted:

Would love to see some of the prints when you get it all together.

I'm really excited to see if everything prints weird on the y axis now

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
This thing looks fun, would love to see it properly sorted , at the moment it seems like a promising proof of concept.

https://youtu.be/G4RTAdGF7wg



#navel gazing

Is delrin rod a stupid idea for smooth rods.

It's as cheap, and potentially less hassle to get good bushings for.

/Naval gaze

Jestery fucked around with this message at 02:05 on May 2, 2018

stevewm
May 10, 2005
I had went and tightened all the belts on my Rostock Max as they where a little loose... And then immediately after started a short 1 hour print.

Came back to a print that was slanted/distorted a bit.

Note to self: Tightening belts changes the geometry, re-calibration is needed! Deltas can be annoying in that way...

mewse
May 2, 2006

Jestery posted:

#navel gazing

Is delrin rod a stupid idea for smooth rods.

It's as cheap, and potentially less hassle to get good bushings for.

/Naval gaze

Steel is smoother. For the hypercube, tech2c went with hollow aluminum rods initially on the X axis + self lubed brass bushings(?), then went to carbon fiber rods with igus bushings.

I think if you're going to use delrin it would work better for the bushings rather than the rod. The rod needs high rigidity.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape

mewse posted:

Steel is smoother. For the hypercube, tech2c went with hollow aluminum rods initially on the X axis + self lubed brass bushings(?), then went to carbon fiber rods with igus bushings.

I think if you're going to use delrin it would work better for the bushings rather than the rod. The rod needs high rigidity.

Makes sense, Ty for entertaining my naval gaze

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

An 8mm delrin rod is going to be pretty flexible.

e: yeah, beaten, but yeah.

Jestery
Aug 2, 2016


Not a Dickman, just a shape
I was thinking something a bit more substantial like 10 or 12mm but I don't think it would help much.

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

mattfl posted:

When did you order and how long did it take to come? It's definitely tempting although I'm not really having any issues with the PEI bed right now. I don't really notice the noise from the hotend fan, where I think my noise comes from is the stepper motors, is there a proven way to quiet those down?

Trinamic drivers?
https://youtu.be/sPvTB3irCxQ

mattfl
Aug 27, 2004


That's uhh quite involved lol.

porksmash
Sep 30, 2008
I just upgraded my super old Makerfarm printer with TMC2130 drivers and it's fantastic. It did take me 2 nights of tinkering to get it to function correctly, and then another 3 nights of tuning to get my currents, speeds, thresholds, and sensorless homing to be perfect. Now my printer is literally silent except for the 30mm hotend cooling fan. It's so quiet I got girlfriend permission to keep it in the same room while she's studying. I used the chinese TMC2130s available on AliExpress. Make sure you buy v1.1 with some pins sticking up as the earlier versions are incorrectly built and make the driver act like a TMC2100 which is a waste.

The week after I finished tuning it I bought a Hypercube Evolution with a Duet board so I'm not sure why I bothered.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Canadian goons:

Filaments.ca is getting into master spools. The spools are a proprietary design (not RichRap's) and they have injection molded master spools you can buy if you can't print them yourself. I haven't tried it myself yet, but the prices are insane, literally half of their normal spool prices.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Neat, thanks for the tip. Hope it works out!

I have all these empty spools and no idea what to do with them, but it seems wasteful to toss them out for some reason.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo
Pros of using PETG: it has no curling problems

Cons of using PETG: I have to use all my ABS until i can buy more PETG.

Edit: gently caress abs except for it's sourthern-heat-inside-a-car temperature resistance.

Cannon_Fodder
Jul 17, 2007

"Hey, where did Steve go?"
Design by Kamoc
AliExpress and eBay need to hurry the gently caress up, I'm still sitting here with a skeleton frame and no goddamn electronics. :argh:

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer

porksmash posted:

I used the chinese TMC2130s available on AliExpress. Make sure you buy v1.1 with some pins sticking up as the earlier versions are incorrectly built and make the driver act like a TMC2100 which is a waste.

The week after I finished tuning it I bought a Hypercube Evolution with a Duet board so I'm not sure why I bothered.
I bought my second set of TMC2130 stepsticks from aliexpress and would like to reiterate that you want the ones with the pins sticking up because the pins aren't the only difference in the boards. If you get the regular kind with all the pins pre-installed down, you have to remove the SPI pins and solder them back on the other side. Once you do that, you'll find that there's a 0 ohm link surface mount part you'll also need to remove. Finally, once you think you're done you also need to set the configuration pins which are two sets 0402 2-way jumpers (3x 0402 pads in a row making a 6 pin block). 0402 is v.v.small and hard to bridge with solder without getting something else as well, unless you have the proper equipment.

Long story short, don't be like me and think you can just mod any ole "TMC2130 stepstick" board into the controllable kind. The official versions come pre-configured for SPI use and you just have to solder the headers on correctly.

PlaneGuy
Mar 28, 2001

g e r m a n
e n g i n e e r i n g

Yam Slacker

BMan posted:

Canadian goons:

Filaments.ca is getting into master spools. The spools are a proprietary design (not RichRap's) and they have injection molded master spools you can buy if you can't print them yourself. I haven't tried it myself yet, but the prices are insane, literally half of their normal spool prices.

I like the idea of masterspools and I pretty much buy everything from filaments.ca, BUT if everyone makes their own proprietary masterspool what's the loving point? Like yeah, I can buy filaments.ca econofil, but if some really nice niche stuff and it comes in richrap masterspool format.... poo poo this is sounding like vhs vs beta

bring back old gbs
Feb 28, 2007

by LITERALLY AN ADMIN

Mister Sinewave posted:

Neat, thanks for the tip. Hope it works out!

I have all these empty spools and no idea what to do with them, but it seems wasteful to toss them out for some reason.

yeah I had a badass pile of them at my old place. I was thinking about making a chair out of them like people do from milk crates, or using them to make some giant tank treads, but then I threw them on the corner on a recycling day and that was that.

EDIT: how is there a "format" for master spools?

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!
What the gently caress are "master spools", even?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

I make my own spools out of laser-cut plywood because that way they don't melt when you bake filament to dry it out. I assemble them like barrels out of two circular cutouts and a bunch of slats.

The Taulman guy is usually pretty smart so I don't know why the gently caress he thought it was a good idea to sell nylon filament that needs to be dried at 110C on a styrene spool with a Tg of like 80C. Matterhackers, too, with the NylonX. gg guys

Note: when respooling filament it really helps to have a lathe or other powerful, speed-controlled rotary tool

PlaneGuy
Mar 28, 2001

g e r m a n
e n g i n e e r i n g

Yam Slacker

bring back old gbs posted:

yeah I had a badass pile of them at my old place. I was thinking about making a chair out of them like people do from milk crates, or using them to make some giant tank treads, but then I threw them on the corner on a recycling day and that was that.

EDIT: how is there a "format" for master spools?

well, everyone's been using rich's masterspool as a guide. It's kind of the only reason it's taking off.

"richrap" posted:

Quite a few people asked about the critical dimensions for MasterSpool (750g version) - so here they are -

Outer spool diameter is 202mm
The inner ring diameter for the filament coil is 102mm
The mounting hole size is 52.5mm
For the 750g Spool the width of the filament coil is 46.7mm

So the companies making refills assume a 100mm diameter. The filaments.ca spool is only 75mm, so nothing you buy at filaments.ca can fit on a community masterspool since the hole in the middle's too small.

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Yeah, it's kinda dumb. But for these prices, I can't complain too much.

EVIL Gibson
Mar 23, 2001

Internet of Things is just someone else's computer that people can't help attaching cameras and door locks to!
:vapes:
Switchblade Switcharoo

PlaneGuy posted:

Like yeah, I can buy filaments.ca econofil, but if some really nice niche stuff and it comes in richrap masterspool format.... poo poo this is sounding like vhs vs beta

Knowing that people will have to respool filament from one to another when diameters change, the action of spinning filament off to get on the other will feel much like the dedicated tape rewinders.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

biracial bear for uncut posted:

What the gently caress are "master spools", even?

It's filament bound up with zip ties and vacuum bagged with no spool in the middle. You print a master spool that you put around the filament then cut the bindings to let it loose. The idea is to have less waste with empty plastic spools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeJo-kKBtLk&t=406s

CapnBry
Jul 15, 2002

I got this goin'
Grimey Drawer
I love the idea of the masterspool but who came up with the dimensions, 103mm inner coil, 46mm width, 52.5mm hub? Why not numbers we can remember like 100mm/50mm/50mm? Also they are only designed to hold 850g of PLA which I guess is because EU shipping rates for under 1kg are much cheaper, but there's 18% more filament in a 1kg roll, and 40% more filament in a 1kg ABS roll so I feel like this is more a "master spool for 850g of PLA" than a universal standard.

I tried to spool 1kg of PLA onto a v4 masterspool, and while I can't wind it as tight as it could be manufactured I think the deficiency is immediately clear (the spool on the right holds what won't fit)


A masterspool is the same diameter as our normal spools but like 35% thinner (46mm vs 62mm). I'm fully behind the idea of not having to ship and dispose of a 300g spool with every 1000g of filament I buy, but the standard masterspool has really lovely dimensions unless we're all going to start buying 850g spools of PLA and 700g spools of ABS. I suppose that could be changed by just increasing the standard width to ~60-65mm.

EDIT: Also it really bothers me that the design is not symmetric for some reason. Look at those teardrop-shaped holes. One is ~1.5mm from the zip tie hole and one is like 4mm away.

CapnBry fucked around with this message at 14:37 on May 3, 2018

insta
Jan 28, 2009
B-b-b-b-but RichRap!

Some Pinko Commie
Jun 9, 2009

CNC! Easy as 1️⃣2️⃣3️⃣!

Rexxed posted:

It's filament bound up with zip ties and vacuum bagged with no spool in the middle. You print a master spool that you put around the filament then cut the bindings to let it loose. The idea is to have less waste with empty plastic spools:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aeJo-kKBtLk&t=406s

Less waste than just using the spools that come with 99% of the suppliers you can buy from?

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mewse
May 2, 2006

CapnBry posted:

I love the idea of the masterspool but who came up with the dimensions, 103mm inner coil, 46mm width, 52.5mm hub? Why not numbers we can remember like 100mm/50mm/50mm? Also they are only designed to hold 850g of PLA which I guess is because EU shipping rates for under 1kg are much cheaper, but there's 18% more filament in a 1kg roll, and 40% more filament in a 1kg ABS roll so I feel like this is more a "master spool for 850g of PLA" than a universal standard.

I tried to spool 1kg of PLA onto a v4 masterspool, and while I can't wind it as tight as it could be manufactured I think the deficiency is immediately clear (the spool on the right holds what won't fit)


A masterspool is the same diameter as our normal spools but like 35% thinner (46mm vs 62mm). I'm fully behind the idea of not having to ship and dispose of a 300g spool with every 1000g of filament I buy, but the standard masterspool has really lovely dimensions unless we're all going to start buying 850g spools of PLA and 700g spools of ABS. I suppose that could be changed by just increasing the standard width to ~60-65mm.

EDIT: Also it really bothers me that the design is not symmetric for some reason. Look at those teardrop-shaped holes. One is ~1.5mm from the zip tie hole and one is like 4mm away.

Agreed <1kg spools are dumb

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