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  Got the front tyre on myself  Had a similar issue where the last ~30% of so of the second side would not go over the rim. Got the suggestion on ADVrider to flip it over to the side I had already seated and unseat it 180 degrees from where I had the problem. Had to back about 40% of the first side off of the rim, but was then able to get the problem side seated, then go back and just barely get the one I'd unseated back in. In hindsight, that makes so much sense and I feel dumb as for not getting it. Also, in the second picture it is leaning against the bubblewrapped crashbars I had to order from America because nobody in AU carries them for a Gen1 KLR. eBay told me it was coming in two packages and I assumed they'd be left + right... nope, it was both bars wrapped together like that, and the four stupid stainless bolts in a separate box about the size of a Mac Mini, with air bags, individually wrapped in baggies. I... what? builds character posted:If it’s not broken, I just smear some oil around the contact parts (so, all of it) and then put it back on. Will do! The PO had some kind of blue stuff on it (that I'm going to clean off with a razor), but he may not be the best model to work from...
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Apr 26, 2018 12:57
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Just picked up an 08 SV650. Rode it around yesterday and noticed the front end clicks when i use the brakes. I can feel it and hear it. It also has peculiar handling that I can't describe in words. Tire pressures are 33 psi front and back. I've ridden several SVs and there is definitely something "off." Do I need to replace the steering head bearings?! If so, suggestions? It looks like people change out ball bearings for tapered stem? This will be my first foray into bearings... I have an abba stand and a decent set of tools plus a garage to work in so this could be doable.
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Apr 27, 2018 15:40
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Just picked up an 08 SV650. Rode it around yesterday and noticed the front end clicks when i use the brakes. I can feel it and hear it. It also has peculiar handling that I can't describe in words. Tire pressures are 33 psi front and back. I've ridden several SVs and there is definitely something "off." Are the calipers tight in their mounts?
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Apr 27, 2018 15:53
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Are the calipers tight in their mounts? Good question. I'll check tonight. I also plan to raise the front and feel for notchiness probably this weekend.
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Apr 27, 2018 16:08
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I replaced my steering head bearings a couple of years ago. The best tip I would have given myself is to use a steel pipe instead of a plastic one, as a ram for the lower bearing inner race (the one that goes around the bottom of the steering stem). Plastic bounces too much and it isn't heavy enough. It'll also crack, eventually. As a reference, it took a few hours, with my PVC pipe ram and not having heated the bearings or frozen the stem. Like with tires, there's probably some technique to it.
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Apr 27, 2018 16:40
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Slide Hammer posted:I replaced my steering head bearings a couple of years ago. The best tip I would have given myself is to use a steel pipe instead of a plastic one, as a ram for the lower bearing inner race (the one that goes around the bottom of the steering stem). Plastic bounces too much and it isn't heavy enough. It'll also crack, eventually. As a reference, it took a few hours, with my PVC pipe ram and not having heated the bearings or frozen the stem. Like with tires, there's probably some technique to it. Your username is relevant. I've been reading up and yeah it seems very doable. I'll see what my manual says. Cost of taper bearings from all balls is only $35 so that's nice. Luckily there's a legit shop nearby that can help me get out of a pinch if I find myself stuck.
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Apr 27, 2018 16:45
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I'm pretty sure the answer will be a combination of "don't be daft" and "it depends" but here goes: How far over do you reckon I'd need to tip my ZX6E to get away with minimal oil spillage when removing the clutch cover, having not drained the pan first? I've no access to a drain pan currently and would prefer to get the cover off ASAP so I can see which part is broken and get a replacement ordered.
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Apr 27, 2018 17:29
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Is there no local auto supply shop (or the equivalent of a supermarket "superstore" a la Wal-mart with an auto section) somewhat nearby you? Failing that, any chance you've a disposable aluminum roasting tray in the kitchen somewhere? A few pounds will save you a huge mess. Even just a few ounces of spilled oil can be a pain in the rear end to clean up.
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Apr 27, 2018 17:44
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Just picked up an 08 SV650. Rode it around yesterday and noticed the front end clicks when i use the brakes. I can feel it and hear it. It also has peculiar handling that I can't describe in words. Tire pressures are 33 psi front and back. I've ridden several SVs and there is definitely something "off." The clicking could just be the pads moving in the calipers, or the forks. But checking the head bearing for play (or smooth operation) is never a bad idea.
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Apr 27, 2018 17:55
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Jazzzzz posted:Is there no local auto supply shop (or the equivalent of a supermarket "superstore" a la Wal-mart with an auto section) somewhat nearby you? Hmm. No auto store (that stocks oil pans), and I don't really do roasts. Bargain shop might have an aluminium tray, I'll pop my head in there first.
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Apr 27, 2018 18:31
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Renaissance Robot posted:I'm pretty sure the answer will be a combination of "don't be daft" and "it depends" but here goes: Not that far I think. You could get the wheels up on some wood blocks, this will make it tip further over on the side stand. Or you can dig a small hole for the side stand, but put something sturdy in the hole so it doesn't sink deeper. But you'll definitely spill some oil anyway. There's also a chance of getting grime in there once it's open. Good excuse to buy a combined oil drain / bucket like this:  If you keep it clean, and clean the area around the drain plug before draining, it will be fine to refill.
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Apr 27, 2018 19:27
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I actually have one of those, it's just in my parents' garage right now. I'm not best pleased with it anyhow because the lovely moulded screws pop out if you tighten them even slightly too much, which led me to slop a bunch of dirty oil all over the pavement the first time I used it. Good idea, poor execution. gently caress knows why they thought the breather hole needed to be at the bottom of the can.
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Apr 27, 2018 19:49
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XYLOPAGUS posted:Just picked up an 08 SV650. Rode it around yesterday and noticed the front end clicks when i use the brakes. I can feel it and hear it. It also has peculiar handling that I can't describe in words. Tire pressures are 33 psi front and back. I've ridden several SVs and there is definitely something "off." The pads will click when you go from braking with the wheel rolling backwards to braking with it rolling forwards. That’s really only relevant in your garage though. If the stem is loose, that will make noise AND make the handling wonky. You should be able to check it by rocking it with the brakes on if it’s bad. Slight looseness might not reveal itself until you’re under hard braking. There is also “SV suspension clunk”: http://forums.sv650.org/showthread.php?t=138462 The clunk only shows up under hard and fast suspension movement (ie running over a pothole). My bike does this, but handles like a dream, so it’s probably not this, but know that this is a thing if you do experience it. Also ALL of the SV’s already have tapered bearings, none of them have ball bearings afaik.
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Apr 27, 2018 21:27
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Renaissance Robot posted:I actually have one of those, it's just in my parents' garage right now. I'm not best pleased with it anyhow because the lovely moulded screws pop out if you tighten them even slightly too much, which led me to slop a bunch of dirty oil all over the pavement the first time I used it. Get some aluminum foil and make a kind of catch out of that, directing the oil down into whatever container.
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Apr 27, 2018 22:54
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Alright, stupid question. Just put riser plates on my gsxr 600 trackbike, which also has a dynojet QS (so non-oem shifter rod length). The shifter pedal now will not return from being pushed up/down, whether I put the rearset shift rod extension on it or not. I did have to give the shift knuckle a couple of healthy whacks to get it onto the transmission rod piece - dunno if it’s possible I broke the shifter return spring or what. My other thought is that I angled the knuckle wrong, but several different angles haven’t changed the problem. Anyone experience something similar? What did I gently caress up this time? E: i feel a loose circlip on the transmission shaft. Looks like I knocked it off center or something. Gotta open poo poo up I guess, smfh M42 fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Apr 28, 2018 |
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Apr 28, 2018 01:54
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I don't think I've ever seen a shift shaft damaged internally like that but I would think it is possible, the parts are not that robust. Did you hit it with like an actual hammer? How do you mean you feel a loose circlip?
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Apr 28, 2018 04:08
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:The pads will click when you go from braking with the wheel rolling backwards to braking with it rolling forwards. That’s really only relevant in your garage though. Thanks for this quality post. That article is confirming everything previously said here. This is my third SV (I still have my second). I'll get the front wheel off the ground and check the steering head bearings and also torque the calipers and probably also check wheel bearings for grins. Off topic: this bike seems to run cooler than the other. Sounds like it's time for a coolant flush!
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Apr 28, 2018 05:58
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Every few hundred miles or so I start to get problems with the keihin carb on my xr. If I drain the float bowl it resolves itself. I think sediment collects in the deep wing parts of my ascerbis tank, and when I run close to empty, it gets sucked into the carb. The obvious solution is a fuel filter and cleaning out the tank. Unfortunately the taps on the tank sit very low, only a couple of inches above the carb intake, and the filter protrudes too far upwards. Is there some wizardry with filters to make them flow better at an extreme angle? Should I just resign myself to frequent bowl drains?
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Apr 28, 2018 11:39
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:I don't think I've ever seen a shift shaft damaged internally like that but I would think it is possible, the parts are not that robust. Did you hit it with like an actual hammer? How do you mean you feel a loose circlip? I’ll get a pic later, lemme describe it. If I reach directly under the bike to grab the rest of the shift shaft, not the lil nub that the shifter knuckle attaches to, I can feel either a loose washer or a circlip sliding around on the shaft. It seems like maybe part 26 here: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2005/gsx-r600/gear-shifting Peeps have said it happens if someone crashes and lands on the shaft wrong. Definitely didn’t whack it hard, but it’s been crashed before so I dunno. Currently the shift shaft pops in and out if I push on it, not sure if that’s a thing it can normally do or a symptom of my fuckup.
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Apr 28, 2018 11:50
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Shelvocke posted:Every few hundred miles or so I start to get problems with the keihin carb on my xr. If I drain the float bowl it resolves itself. 90-degree fuel filter? I mean for fitment; not sure how that affects flow.
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Apr 28, 2018 16:31
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gently caress, the petcock and carb float valve failed on the ninja and flooded it, airbox, cylinder, and all. I’ve got it turning over and running in brief stints but it idles all over the place as it sucks fuel from... everywhere? I’m going to let it dry out tonight and try again tomorrow. Anything in particular I should know about recovering from this?
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Apr 28, 2018 19:51
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RadioPassive posted:gently caress, the petcock and carb float valve failed on the ninja and flooded it, airbox, cylinder, and all. I’ve got it turning over and running in brief stints but it idles all over the place as it sucks fuel from... everywhere? Change the oil, it'll be super contaminated with petrol now.
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Apr 28, 2018 20:36
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Piston rings gonna be ok? 
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Apr 28, 2018 22:21
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It'll be fine if you don't ride it before changing the oil. My concern would be the bearings, gears and timing chain, rings will be fine.
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Apr 28, 2018 22:35
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M42 posted:I’ll get a pic later, lemme describe it. If I reach directly under the bike to grab the rest of the shift shaft, not the lil nub that the shifter knuckle attaches to, I can feel either a loose washer or a circlip sliding around on the shaft. It seems like maybe part 26 here: https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/suzuki/motorcycle/2005/gsx-r600/gear-shifting
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Apr 28, 2018 23:40
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When I push it in, it stops actuating anything at all, when I pull it out (where it should be) it sort of works properly, sometimes. I'm gonna try to mess around with the knuckle some more, it's possible I just don't have the angle right (my shift rod is ridiculously long now because of the QS and rearsets). Def need to take a look at whatever's loose on the inner section tho. Thankfully I work at a bike shop now and I might be able to foist it off on a coworker 😈
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Apr 28, 2018 23:49
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Does anyone make a quick shifter of the type that sits in the middle of the shift shaft and just momentarily fours ignition but doesn’t require a power commander or dynojet box? Basically I want a dynojet quickshifter with the stock ecu. Does such an animal exist?
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Apr 29, 2018 01:03
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Shelvocke posted:Every few hundred miles or so I start to get problems with the keihin carb on my xr. If I drain the float bowl it resolves itself. Just put in an in line fuel filter between the petcock and carb.
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Apr 29, 2018 15:49
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Ugh. Anyone have recommendations on where to order an aftermarket speedo from? I get some stuff from a google search but hate running blind. Standard metric 2240:60mph ratio, need an odometer plus trip meter with standard wire cable input. Noticed a high-pitched whine from the gauge cluster when coming to a stop, made a mental note to check it when I got home. Speedo saved me the trouble and broke before I got there. Front tire linkage seems fine, cable seems fine, rotates with the front tire and all; speedo won't budge. Take it out of the head and the flywheel is locked hard. Not even sure how that's possible since the worm gear it's attached to is plastic, but yeah. This is the third or fourth time I've either replaced or rebuilt this speedo. Hell with it, going aftermarket.
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Apr 29, 2018 16:23
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builds character posted:Just put in an in line fuel filter between the petcock and carb. Some people hate those things, I had them on my RD that of course had a bit of a rusty tank. Never had issues with it. If there is crap in the tank, take the drat tank off and properly drain all the poo poo out of it. You can also buy a replacement petcocks for acerbic tanks for all of $20: https://www.amazon.com/Acerbis-LEPAZA7734-Petcock-Universal-Fit/dp/B0022ZIB9S (make sure you get the right one) The filter on the petcock should catch any crap. The only time I've heard draining a petcock helping is when you've got really old gas in it. If you are pulling poo poo into the carb, I would think it would clog it and stay clogged. Maybe that's not how it always works.
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Apr 30, 2018 06:16
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Does anyone make a quick shifter of the type that sits in the middle of the shift shaft and just momentarily fours ignition but doesn’t require a power commander or dynojet box? The original quickshifters worked exactly this way, by interrupting the timing signal. I've no idea how well - or if at all - this would work with more sophisticated EFI or RBW systems.
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Apr 30, 2018 07:07
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n8r posted:Werds Great, thanks. I didn't know the tanks have filters in the petcocks, I'll have them off.
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Apr 30, 2018 11:47
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TheNothingNew posted:Ugh. Anyone have recommendations on where to order an aftermarket speedo from? I get some stuff from a google search but hate running blind. I used to have a TrailTech Vapor for my EX250. It worked pretty well, tho since the product was made for off-road bikes, the tach did not go as high as I needed. Still, speedo and odo worked well, as far as I could tell. It used the bicycle method of wheel magnet/sensor.
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Apr 30, 2018 16:33
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Shelvocke posted:Great, thanks. I didn't know the tanks have filters in the petcocks, I'll have them off. Be prepared for the filters to fall apart when you pull the petcock and start messing around. I think they're pretty often all plastic in construction and will likely have degraded quite a bit. +1 on cleaning the whole tank. If it's a problem of grit getting in the cap somehow, you can also get one of those fine mesh filters that sits inside the cap and filters gas as it comes in, and also a certain amount of schmutz from the environment.
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Apr 30, 2018 17:43
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:+1 on cleaning the whole tank. If it's a problem of grit getting in the cap somehow, you can also get one of those fine mesh filters that sits inside the cap and filters gas as it comes in, and also a certain amount of schmutz from the environment. "filters down to the smallest of microns" Well poo poo, here I've only been filtering to the mediumest of microns.
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Apr 30, 2018 17:58
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My microns are easily the biggest around. Nobody has bigger microns. Just the best microns.
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Apr 30, 2018 19:41
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Figured out the shifting issue 
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May 2, 2018 01:25
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Finally found a used Sargent seat for the SV650 right when I was about to buy new. Got the seat and it is in great shape but... (after about 250 miles this past weekend) I slide like crazy on this thing and can't really find a comfortable spot. Braking I cram against the tank and acccel my rear end hits the passenger seat. I don't remember it being so high either... My current plan is to get more time on it. Maybe 2 weeks of commuting and another long weekend ride. Sargent wants $90 for a returb and seat modification but I have no idea what would actually be more comfortable. I seem to remember my other one being magical and perfect. Other option is to put it back on eBay and try a Corbin.
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May 2, 2018 04:28
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I have an annoying rattling noise coming from the front end when riding between 4.5 and 5k rpm, any tips of how to find out what's loose? It doesn't show up if I'm just revving the engine on a stand.
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May 2, 2018 08:11
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Collateral Damage posted:I have an annoying rattling noise coming from the front end when riding between 4.5 and 5k rpm, any tips of how to find out what's loose? It doesn't show up if I'm just revving the engine on a stand. Does it happen under breaking, acceleration and maintaining speed??
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May 2, 2018 11:34
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