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shy boy from chess club posted:Thats a wicked nice mower, my granpa has a couple like that that hes restored. Kohler makes the best gas engines hands down. I have a 22hp twin on one of my commercial mowers with 2500 hours on it and it runs perfect, still has crosshatch in the bores and plenty of power. I just regasketed it this winter and now its really like new with no leaks. You're making me want to rebuild the 314 sitting in our barn. What oil in the Kawa's? My Hustler just hit warranty and I'm thinking of switching to synthetic for no good reason.
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May 9, 2018 23:49
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Someone told me once to not run synthetic in small motors.... I think it was a service guy at Honda powersports now that I think of it. Seemed counter intuitive to me but he actually said it promoted leaking. I don't know if there is any truth to that or not, I assumed not but maybe? 
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May 10, 2018 00:02
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Yes every salesperson has some highly instructive personal anecdote about never putting synthetic oil in engine x and to only use Company Brand Engine oil for $$$. Weird. Couple months ago I bought a new dishwasher but was hanging in the background with the salesman while my wife was doing the talking. He tried to convince her that not loading your dishwasher to capacity would damage it because all that soap has to go somewhere and dispense its chemical power I guess. I think that was his segue into an extended warranty.
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May 10, 2018 00:29
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the spyder posted:You're making me want to rebuild the 314 sitting in our barn. I just run regular Castrol GTX 10w30. I havent tried synthetic in anything though maybe it would be a good experiment once I change that crank seal.
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May 10, 2018 01:07
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Darchangel posted:95 HP, really? Wow. And that's to the wheels. The 2.8 (ignore what the intake manifold says) was rated at 125 bhp, so factoring in a 24% drivetrain loss through the 440T4, that's about right.
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May 10, 2018 03:09
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TotalLossBrain posted:Yes every salesperson has some highly instructive personal anecdote about never putting synthetic oil in engine x and to only use Company Brand Engine oil for $$$. Weird. There is a bit of truth to this. If you rinse your dishes you tend to end up with foggy glassware due to the detergent not having enough grease to react with.
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May 10, 2018 11:49
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What? No. That's wrong. A big part of it is how dish detergent doesn't have phosphates in it anymore, and how people perceive the "squeak" from hard water meaning things are clean. "Squeaky clean" was 1940s marketing. A squeak means you have a thin layer of soap scum on the dish/your skin, that makes the frictive surface. It has nothing to do with "enough grease for the detergent to react (?) with," and more to do with "you've got hard water and a terrible rinse cycle." By the time it's time to dry the dishes, all stuff in the machine, even excess detergent, should have been rinsed away, machine full or empty doesn't matter.
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 15:21 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 15:17
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Hard water vs soft water is a horrible failure of some kind. It's one thing to read up and understand that soft water is "better" but having lived with hard water my whole life I hate how if you use one molecule too much soap it feels like it takes way longer to rinse off. I can't get myself to work with it.
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May 10, 2018 15:44
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Oh shoot thanks for reminding me to get more salt.
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May 10, 2018 16:34
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Wasabi the J posted:Oh shoot thanks for reminding me to get more salt. I’ve never forgot to buy salt and then had to dump in 200 pounds. Never.
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May 10, 2018 16:37
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The first two months at this apartment I hated the soft water. But it's better now. I've lived with super hard water my entire life so I thought that it had to "squeak," but now hard water feels grody. It took jumping over a HUGE mental hurdle.
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May 10, 2018 16:57
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:I’ve never forgot to buy salt and then had to dump in 200 pounds. Never. Huh? Salt for your dishwasher?
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May 10, 2018 17:00
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Huh? Salt for your dishwasher? Some have built-in water softeners.
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May 10, 2018 17:04
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:Huh? Salt for your dishwasher? Some people also have whole home water softeners. Usually located next to the water heater. Softener:  Salt: 
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May 10, 2018 17:22
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slidebite posted:Someone told me once to not run synthetic in small motors.... I think it was a service guy at Honda powersports now that I think of it. Seemed counter intuitive to me but he actually said it promoted leaking. I don't know if there is any truth to that or not, I assumed not but maybe? They say the same thing about older cars. As I understand it, synthetic doesn't "promote" leaking so much as it's better at breaking down the sludge and gunk that's currently keeping your engine sealed. So it exposes horrible gasket failures and gets blamed for it.
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May 10, 2018 17:50
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Some synthetic oils contain detergents, so they will definitely break down all the crap that's been in the engine for decades, exposing all the leaks they were clogging.
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May 10, 2018 17:53
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There's two issues with old engines, one was detergents. Use non detergent oil for several years and crap builds up but the engine runs okay. Switch to detergent oil without a rebuild and suddenly all that gunk breaks free and clogs everything up. The issue with synthetics is they penetrate better and reveal bad seals. But you can get non-detergent synthetic and get all the leaking, with none of the gunk breakdown.
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May 10, 2018 17:56
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When I bought my ZG1400 Kawi, the dealer told me to not use Synthetic until I had at least 10,000KMs on it. I promptly put synthetic in it my first change, and the world did not end.
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May 10, 2018 19:02
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xzzy posted:But you can get non-detergent synthetic and get all the leaking, with none of the gunk breakdown. Truly the best of both worlds.
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May 10, 2018 19:05
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slidebite posted:When I bought my ZG1400 Kawi, the dealer told me to not use Synthetic until I had at least 10,000KMs on it. Old-school engine builders will swear up and down that you must break in an engine with regular mineral oil to get proper ring seating. I think I read a study on this in the past decade or so but now I can't remember the findings.
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May 10, 2018 19:07
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xergm posted:Some people also have whole home water softeners. Usually located next to the water heater. I looked into getting one for the house since the water is super-hard, but only the Kinetico guy offered a dual-tank softener (which cuts back on late or unnecessary cycles, the latter of which I'd really like to avoid since we're on a septic tank). People seem to love their Kineticos, but they're expensive and I've heard something like the brine tanks are more prone to causing flooding. The capacity is also lower than some others, which shouldn't matter much in terms of sustaining good water quality since it's dual-tank, but it sounds like that can decrease the life of the mechanical bits from more frequent cycling. Pain in the rear end. I'd like one freaking choice on this house to be easy for once.
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May 10, 2018 19:48
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Im going to switch my brand new mower to synthetic next oil change now that it has 500 hours on it just to see what happens. Then Ill have at least one anecdote in the endless synthetic oil discussions we all will probably have for eternity.
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May 10, 2018 22:31
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shy boy from chess club posted:Im going to switch my brand new mower to synthetic next oil change now that it has 500 hours on it just to see what happens. Then Ill have at least one anecdote in the endless synthetic oil discussions we all will probably have for eternity. It's probably going to leak. The tolerances just seem to be so much more loose that it happens no matter what, from what I've seen.
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May 10, 2018 22:40
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Its a Kawasaki so its already leaking. Its just a matter of increased flow at this point.
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May 10, 2018 22:50
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I've owned a dozen high mileage shitboxes and put synthetic in every one of them (i drive a lot, so less frequent oil changes is nice). The leaky ones don't leak worse, the ones that don't leak don't start leaking (ok, the only car that hasn't leaked oil is the toyota with 245k miles). The only engines that really shouldn't have synthetic are engines without oil filters. Detergent oils (both synthetic and conventional) are designed to suspend dirt particles so they can be carried to the filter. If you don't have a filter, like many small engines and ancient cars, you'll have dirt floating around the oil all the time, not great. You're really supposed to use a non-detergent oil which is designed to drop all the particles to the bottom of the pan. That's why old cars (like pre-60's) need to have the oil pan pulled and cleaned before running a modern oil. It was a common service back in the day to remove and clean the pan, it's where all the dirt ended up. The sludge wasn't there because lack of maintenance, per se, it was there because that's just how things worked.
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May 10, 2018 22:52
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TotalLossBrain posted:Old-school engine builders will swear up and down that you must break in an engine with regular mineral oil to get proper ring seating. That's I was told when I picked up 389 from the rebuilder. In fact, he wanted me to run Delvac in it for 500-miles, them change it + filter, then run natural 10w40 thereafter. I've been doing it, but I also change the oil every 24-months since I don't put 2k/year on it & the acids build up. I wind up changing fluids on a time schedule, not by mileage...the brake fluid every three years, for example. 
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May 11, 2018 01:36
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I only run synethic in my small engines, including the 10 year old snowblower that had its first ever oil change two years ago. When my Mazda 6's motor was rebuilt I ran synethic 5W20 or whatever it was in it for 1k, had it changed out for dino after and every change was always dino because I hated that car. Never had issues with the engine itself, just the entire rest of the car.
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May 11, 2018 01:44
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PainterofCrap posted:That's I was told when I picked up 389 from the rebuilder. In fact, he wanted me to run Delvac in it for 500-miles, them change it + filter, then run natural 10w40 thereafter. I've been doing it, but I also change the oil every 24-months since I don't put 2k/year on it & the acids build up. You should be changing oil at least every 12 months. 24 is way too long, even if it isn't being driven.
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May 11, 2018 02:19
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My unsupported synthetic oil anecdote is that service life is the significant difference and that's wasted or detrimental to certain engines. A small engine that gets serviced every season, an unfiltered engine, or an infrequently driven vehicle should all have their oil changed long before conventional or synthetic matters.
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May 11, 2018 03:53
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 This is all I bothered to recover from my strut bearings. They both fell apart the moment I defused the strut bombs. Look at that peening on the lower race  I'd been autocrossing on these 
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May 11, 2018 09:07
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Darchangel posted:They say the same thing about older cars. As I understand it, synthetic doesn't "promote" leaking so much as it's better at breaking down the sludge and gunk that's currently keeping your engine sealed. So it exposes horrible gasket failures and gets blamed for it. Negative Ions has had a steady diet of conventional its entire life, if Carfax is to be believed. I have 5 quarts of Mobil 1 High Mileage in the trunk waiting for this weekend. And I already know the spark plug tube seals are leaking a little.  No external leaks yet, that may changed this weekend.Upside: at least I'm using High Mileage, so it should help somewhat. chrisgt posted:I've owned a dozen high mileage shitboxes and put synthetic in every one of them (i drive a lot, so less frequent oil changes is nice). The leaky ones don't leak worse, the ones that don't leak don't start leaking (ok, the only car that hasn't leaked oil is the toyota with 245k miles). You... you have a Toyota that doesn't leak?  I kinda thought that was what Toyotas were good at. At least the 1MZ-FE is, anyway.100% agree on the extended oil changes being the biggest benefit of synthetic. Going by the oil change shop sticker on the windshield, the new-to-me car was due for an oil change at 138,800, or in December. I got it with 138,300 in April, I'll break 142k tomorrow. The upside is 2 of the POs (out of 3) took it to oil change shops that reported oil changes to Carfax, so I know it's had pretty steady 3-5k oil changes its entire life - I don't think pushing it to 7k this one time will hurt. I do know it has bulk conventional Valvoline 5w30 in it right now, and whatever oil filters Valvoline Instant Oil Change uses, but I have 5 quarts of Mobil 1 High Mileage + an OEM filter sitting in the trunk waiting for this weekend. It's also still dead on the full mark, so either it got overfilled (I doubt it, I've been checking it every fillup and it hasn't changed at all), or this thing just doesn't burn anything yet. To be honest, I'm half tempted to pull the Mobil 1 15k mile filter out of the wrecked car... it only had about 1000 miles on that oil change, and that's a better filter than the OEM AC Delco filter. But that just seems like something you don't normally swap to another car... right? My Altima was the leakiest engine out of everything I owned; if anything, it leaked less once I switched to Mobil 1 High Mileage. I did replace the front crank seal while I had it, and the valve cover gasket, but that thing leaked like a sieve when I got it. The oil leaks were mostly gone when I got rid of it (though it was weeping coolant from the head gasket the entire time I had it). The Twinkie Czar posted:My unsupported synthetic oil anecdote is that service life is the significant difference and that's wasted or detrimental to certain engines. A small engine that gets serviced every season, an unfiltered engine, or an infrequently driven vehicle should all have their oil changed long before conventional or synthetic matters. Delivery driver checking in. I do a metric fuckton of idling in the hottest parts of the day if I'm working food delivery (the slowest parts of the day for food delivery are 2-5pm), just to keep the a/c going, if I'm not near one of the few malls still open (if I am, I'll park and go inside). If I'm delivering business goods or prescriptions, then I'm sitting in stop and go traffic for "rush hour" (which is 3-7pm here, depending which highway you're on). I deliver for multiple companies, ranging from Amazon (restaurants, Prime Now, and Amazon Fresh), to other general restaurant delivery for 3 different platforms, to medication delivery, or even running bloodwork to labs, to TVs from major electronics retailers, to potting soil, to as much random poo poo as you can possibly think of to pack into a compact car. The most WTF delivery this year has been one spool of welding wire, from a major big box home improvement retailer... going a mile down the road to the distribution center of the same retailer. Seems a bit asinine that they had to "buy" it from one of their stores, pay to get it delivered... instead of just pulling it out of their own stock and charging it to the distribution center. I've honestly lost count of how many companies I contract with at this point (it's gotta be close to 10), I just know my 16GB work phone is packed to the gills with on-demand apps. I alternate between crawling through traffic, parking for an hour with the ac on, to cruising at 75 for an hour or two across multiple cities/counties. I'm really thankful for GM's oil life monitoring system. It's pretty good at accounting for most of the variables I've thrown at it. It's thrown "change oil" messages at me anywhere from 5000 to 12000 miles, depending how I've been driving. I do a lot of road trips too (especially now that I'm in a long distance relationship - averaging 2 round trips a month until I move). Supposedly it's calibrated for conventional oil (my car predates dexos), but I'm a lot more comfortable with synthetic. Particularly with all of the stop/start (of the engine) that I do, and the sitting in traffic. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:13 on May 11, 2018 |
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May 11, 2018 10:08
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The only thing my toyota (02 sequoia) leaks is front diff oil, but that's my fault. I replaced the ADD when it was zero degrees out and did a lovely job sealing it up. It's easier to to add a pint of oil every 3k miles than fix the problem... But no, the 2uz-fe has 245k miles and doesn't leak a drop. 6k mile synthetic oil changes, the level on the dipstick doesn't budge. Toyota made a good engine. FWIW I run castrol GTX high mileage full synthetic, the green bottle. Changing a grumpy sounding subaru to the stuff made it stop clattering so bad. Although I think it was running whatever the cheapest poo poo you can buy at walmart is, motorcraft or whatever.
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May 11, 2018 13:32
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TotalLossBrain posted:My wife's dad is terrible with cars. I love him and I help him out because cars just ain't his thing. He set his old Chevy pickup on fire while looking for fuel leak. The fire department had to come put it out....
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May 11, 2018 17:23
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chrisgt posted:The only thing my toyota (02 sequoia) leaks is front diff oil, but that's my fault. I replaced the ADD when it was zero degrees out and did a lovely job sealing it up. It's easier to to add a pint of oil every 3k miles than fix the problem... But no, the 2uz-fe has 245k miles and doesn't leak a drop. 6k mile synthetic oil changes, the level on the dipstick doesn't budge. Toyota made a good engine. You may want to read again, gtx high mileage is a synthetic blend. The castrol full synthetic high mileage is the edge high mileage in a black bottle. 
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May 12, 2018 03:40
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Lawnmower + moron chat: my mom deep-fried a weedeater by buying injector cleaner instead of 2-stroke oil to mix into the gas. I guess the bottles were on the same shelf or something.
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May 12, 2018 19:10
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Minor electrical failure: Here's what happens to the port of an iPhone if you attempt to charge it after it was dropped in water.  Phone me still works great though!
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May 12, 2018 20:50
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Javid posted:Lawnmower + moron chat: my mom deep-fried a weedeater by buying injector cleaner instead of 2-stroke oil to mix into the gas. I guess the bottles were on the same shelf or something. Oh man, any chance we can get a post-mortem on that motor? I'm morbidly curious as to what that would do to it.
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May 12, 2018 21:42
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I'd imagine it would just seize from a lack of lubrication, like any time you run a 2-stroke without oil.
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May 12, 2018 22:07
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chrisgt posted:The only thing my toyota (02 sequoia) leaks is front diff oil, but that's my fault. I replaced the ADD when it was zero degrees out and did a lovely job sealing it up. It's easier to to add a pint of oil every 3k miles than fix the problem... But no, the 2uz-fe has 245k miles and doesn't leak a drop. 6k mile synthetic oil changes, the level on the dipstick doesn't budge. Toyota made a good engine. I run the same thing in my grumpy 240k mile EJ25D for the same reason. It sounds a lot happier than it did on the generic Chevron oil my dad was putting in it before. Still leaks though.
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May 12, 2018 22:16
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Shifty Pony posted:Minor electrical failure: Here's what happens to the port of an iPhone if you attempt to charge it after it was dropped in water. Does the iPhone really not have water sensors? My mom dropped her samsung note whatever in the pool and it told her to unplug the phone until it dried.
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May 12, 2018 22:58
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