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Renaissance Robot posted:Don't suppose any UK goons would know how much luck I'm likely to have asking the council if I can have a ground anchor drilled into the street outside my house?
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May 6, 2018 19:50
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Thanks Coydog, they make a cyclops 4000 with a H7 fitting which is what I need for the upper (running/low) bulb on the Honda, I'll look at picking one up when the sun starts setting earlier again.
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May 6, 2018 20:12
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Dumb question, but is that cyclops plug and play to replace an existing bulb? No worries of having to mount heat sinks or other pieces somewhere in there?
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May 6, 2018 21:15
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MomJeans420 posted:Dumb question, but is that cyclops plug and play to replace an existing bulb? No worries of having to mount heat sinks or other pieces somewhere in there? Its plug and play but you will have to mount the attached amp somewhere with double sided tape or leave it dangling depending on the bike. Some of the other non-cyclops will make it a self contained unit with fins and a small fan but its larger and wont fit every bike.
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May 6, 2018 21:26
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Keket posted:Thanks Coydog, they make a cyclops 4000 with a H7 fitting which is what I need for the upper (running/low) bulb on the Honda, I'll look at picking one up when the sun starts setting earlier again. Ask em if the 4000 lum has the same nice color temp bulb that the 7000 lum has. I didn't know you didn't have the h4
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May 6, 2018 23:21
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So I was looking at the Morimoto headlight for my RT cause I ride at night a lot, but I couldn't find what people had said about it in recent threads. I assume the light it throws is a lot better than an old style reflector and H4? I'm reading the specs on their site, though, and it seems to be saying it actually uses more power than a halogen, that can't be right, can it?quote:HIGH BEAM: 9800 LUMENS 140W (2X LIGHTS)
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May 7, 2018 14:55
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70watts is a bit high. I feel like the morimoto isn't as efficient as a lot of others, for it's output. Possibly because of light loss from the optics. You can get more light than that out of some led pods for about 15% less wattage. But you won't look as cool. 
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May 7, 2018 17:11
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Any idea where I could source a set of integrated rear turn signals for an EX250F? Like these (although I think these specific part numbers might refer to red ones, I'm after amber): No matter what I google they're almost impossible to find, I think they might have only ever come on JP and US models. Ninja 250 wiki mentions a (now defunct) source for some replicas of the original kawasaki design forward flush mount indicators (which I would also like to get), but doesn't seem to have any reference but this image to the rear ones.
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May 11, 2018 01:05
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You sure they made those as signals? I’ve only ever seen those as three red brake lights. That diagram just looks like the stock tail light. I’m not sure those were ever directional signals.
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May 11, 2018 01:47
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Look under the tail. They are totally turn signal spots, and you can even relocate yours from the sides into the red slots. I bought some amber lenses for those for cheap on ebay, and then relocated my bulb up there. It's an easy mod, and looks fantastic when it's done.
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May 11, 2018 02:43
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One of my EX250's previous owners converted them to those integrated turn signals. I put the original turn signals back on to avoid a cheap-rear end ticket, but I left all the wiring intact in the back, in case a future owner wants to switch back. In the US, the certain federally-lawful distance between the two turn signals necessitated those amber-lensed stalks that you see on most every bike here. But I bet they were original equipment in Japan. They had to have been—the holes for the bulbs are right there in the diagram.
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May 11, 2018 05:48
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Hey, I've got a carb problem I can't seem to figure out. 1981 Kz440 LTD, all stock as far as I can tell. I cleaned the carbs, and replaced most parts with these: https://www.z1enterprises.com/carburetor-kit-kz440-1980-83.html, set the pilot screws at 2.5 turns. Bike starts up immediately on choke. As soon as the idle rises, I turn the choke off, and it idles exactly where I want it. Here's the problem: Rev it above ~2500 RPM, and it'll shoot up to about 4500 and stay there. Never comes down on its own. If I block 3/4 of the intake with my hand, it'll drop back down again and stay there till I rev it. Sounds like an air leak, right? I can't find one. Checked both sides of the carbs, and all the airbox seals. I tried with Wd40, brake cleaner, and even propane, couldn't find anywhere that acted like a leak. I played around with the pilot screws, same behavior whether all the way in or out. Carbs are synced Fuel height is correct New air filter, I oiled it even though the manual doesn't specify that All vacuum ports well plugged Both cylinders firing at all rpms Good compression in both cylinders valves are adjusted What am I missing? This wouldn't be a simple incorrect jetting issue, right? Edit: Brand new plugs are black with dry soot. Indicates rich, but which jets would cause this? Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 20:49 on May 12, 2018 |
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May 12, 2018 19:55
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Hey, I've got a carb problem I can't seem to figure out. When I had a similar issue on a KZ1000P, I had to replace the vacuum slides. They had tiny tears due to age. What state are they in?
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May 12, 2018 20:56
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I was gonna suggest the vacuum slides might be sticking in the up position, sometimes they get warped with age or the sliding surfaces are just dirty.
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May 12, 2018 20:59
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Crayvex posted:When I had a similar issue on a KZ1000P, I had to replace the vacuum slides. They had tiny tears due to age. What state are they in? They looked like they're in good shape. I cleaned them up when I had the carbs apart, and the diaphragms looked good. I'll pull them again and check more carefully. They move up and down easy manually, so I don't think they're sticking.
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May 12, 2018 21:09
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Vacuum leak between the carb boots and the head? Vacuum petcock leaking fuel into the vacuum side? Throttle cable jamming somehow?
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May 12, 2018 21:22
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Slavvy posted:Vacuum leak between the carb boots and the head? >> Vacuum leak between the carb boots and the head? Doubt it, since spraying flammable stuff around there doesn't change anything at low or fast RPM. >> Vacuum petcock leaking fuel into the vacuum side? Nope, currently running from a remote fuel tank, and all the vacuum ports are plugged. >> Throttle cable jamming somehow? Nope, throttle snaps closed against the idle screw. Update: Found a very small hole in one diaphragm. Patched it with duct tape for testing, and that didn't help. (Checked, the tape is still there.) Also sealed the whole carb cap with tape just in case they were leaking, also no change. I think you guys may be onto something with these slides, but I don't know how to check if they're sticking while it's running. Edit: If I turn down the idle so it just barely runs, it seems to act a little better. Like a quick blip will drop back to that low idle. But if I blip it above 3000 or hold the revs up above 2,000 for more than a second or two, it'll just start racing up to 4000+ and not come down. Mr. Eric Praline fucked around with this message at 21:54 on May 12, 2018 |
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May 12, 2018 21:50
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Ok, new update. I pulled the airbox off so I could watch the slides. They move up when I give it throttle and down when I release. No sticking. They do *not* move up when the engine races itself. They also don't really "pulse" like my old KZ550 did. At this point, it behaves a little more like a regular lean condition. Idles around 3500, and if I turn it down, it'll slowly drop till it dies. However, it does still want to remain at 3500 or so. I'm going to pull it off and replace the jets the PO had in place, even though they were massive. Like a 102 main, when stock is 90.
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May 12, 2018 22:35
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IMO this is what's happening: you're running ultra rich and the idle is cranked the gently caress up to compensate. The slides won't operate properly with no air box but they should at least shudder and pulsate and move somewhat. Retarded huge jetting supports this theory.
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May 12, 2018 22:42
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Slavvy posted:IMO this is what's happening: you're running ultra rich and the idle is cranked the gently caress up to compensate. Yeah, explains why it ran for poo poo when I got my hands on it. I'm running the jets from the Z1 Enterprises kit, which are richer than stock for some reason, but not that bad. And this is happening with those Z1 jets and the idle almost fully closed. I'm gonna take em apart again, make sure I didn't do anything really stupid, try again tomorrow.
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May 12, 2018 23:24
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Mr. Eric Praline posted:Yeah, explains why it ran for poo poo when I got my hands on it. What's the status of your choke/enrichment during your testing?
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May 13, 2018 00:25
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I dropped one of the two bolts for the gas tank somewhere into the depths of the frame for my 2008 sv650sf and I can't seem to find it. The other one seems to be barely ferrous if at all because I can't pick it up with my magnetic pickup tool. I have no idea how to find this darn thing. I've removed the farings and torn several pairs of nitrile gloves trying to feel around the front of the frame between the cylinder, radiator and under the air box. I've also tried rocking it and bouncing the front suspension to try and get it to fall out. I'm gonna go crazy. This was just supposed to be a 10 minute job of replacing the battery.
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May 13, 2018 01:46
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You know how sometimes doctors accidentally leave surgery equipment inside patients?
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May 13, 2018 02:44
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That's gonna rattle like a motherfucker.
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May 13, 2018 02:50
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:What's the status of your choke/enrichment during your testing?
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May 13, 2018 03:56
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:You know how sometimes doctors accidentally leave surgery equipment inside patients? Dagen H posted:That's gonna rattle like a motherfucker. I sold my KTM sumo to escape the rattle. Noooooo... Send help.
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May 13, 2018 06:53
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Did you try a magnet on a stick yet
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May 13, 2018 07:02
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Renaissance Robot posted:Don't suppose any UK goons would know how much luck I'm likely to have asking the council if I can have a ground anchor drilled into the street outside my house? Zero, assuming it's a public thoroughfare. If you have a dedicated resident's parking bay then it's possibly doable (but be prepared for a long and painful argument). You *might* be able to persuade them to convert an existing bay near your house to a solo motorcycle only bay and install an anchor but most councils barely have the cash to keep ahead of lawsuits for potholes let alone new stuff. Make friends with your local councilor and see what they think.
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May 13, 2018 07:57
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Renaissance Robot posted:Any idea where I could source a set of integrated rear turn signals for an EX250F? Like these (although I think these specific part numbers might refer to red ones, I'm after amber): I'm just pissing all over your dreams this morning but that's an MOT failure right there - I can't remember the exact number but to be legal an indicator has to be more than <x>% from the edge of the widest part of the bike, and the general consensus is that this means they have to be on stalks.
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May 13, 2018 08:01
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:This is what I thought, and I even put in a distribution block on a relay last year expecting to get heated stuff. Then I read a bunch of stuff on ADVRider and I think even the Gerbing website saying it needs to be connected to the battery posts. There's no possible advantage to doing this compared to a decently-built and properly-installed relay.
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May 13, 2018 08:03
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Renaissance Robot posted:Did you try a magnet on a stick yet I did, but it appears that the tank bolts are... Not ferrous? Which seems odd to me, but I tested picking up the other tank bolt and it is hardly, if at all, attracted to the magnet. There's not enough force to even lift it off the ground. So, I don't think the magnet will work.
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May 13, 2018 08:30
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Some types of stainless steel aren't, or are only faintly magnetic. Your next option is like a big blob of clay or white tack or something on a stick. goddamnedtwisto posted:I'm just pissing all over your dreams this morning but that's an MOT failure right there - I can't remember the exact number but to be legal an indicator has to be more than <x>% from the edge of the widest part of the bike, and the general consensus is that this means they have to be on stalks. Regs are here, it looks like it's "indicators can't be more than 400mm from the edge" but there's nothing saying there has to be some distance between the edge and the indicator. My zzr certainly would have flouted any such regulation, as its indicators were the widest part of the bike. The only other requirement is that the distance between them be at least 240mm in the rear, which might be just slightly wider than the brake light on this model (I haven't checked). It's not made explicit whether that 240mm is minimum separation or centre to centre, however. I was sort of expected I'd get nowhere with the anchor, but it was worth a shot. Currently it's being bounced back and forth between departments, because apparently nobody at the council/highways offices rides and they don't seem to know what to make of the query. Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 08:38 on May 13, 2018 |
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May 13, 2018 08:31
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goddamnedtwisto posted:There's no possible advantage to doing this compared to a decently-built and properly-installed relay. That's exactly what I thought. Next time I try to mess around with the gear, it's going into the relay. It was an expensive mistake.
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May 13, 2018 16:04
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MetaJew posted:I did, but it appears that the tank bolts are... Not ferrous? Which seems odd to me, but I tested picking up the other tank bolt and it is hardly, if at all, attracted to the magnet. There's not enough force to even lift it off the ground. So, I don't think the magnet will work. Can you post a pic of where it went? You say “in the frame” which to me means it got inside the frame. I can’t picture a place on my N where you could do that, but I’m not familiar enough with the SF
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May 13, 2018 16:05
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 Is this battery completely and utterly dead?
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May 13, 2018 20:39
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Yup
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May 13, 2018 20:48
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1.7Π volts, or 5.4 volts, is definitely below the nominal minimum of 10. That's a pretty fancy, albeit confusing, multimeter you've got there
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May 13, 2018 20:49
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The Wonder Weapon posted:
It's so dead, its funeral was attended by grieving doornails.
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May 13, 2018 21:02
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Ok that's what I figured. I don't really understand why though, and I'd like to. I bought it late last season. Rode it for another 200 miles before putting the bike away for the winter, if that. Today I pull the bike out, it turns over quickly, and I drive it a few miles without issue. Then it dies at a red light and I end up wheeling it into a parking lot. A. If it's that dead, why does it even start and drive a few miles? B. Why is a brand new battery dying so quickly? Could it be because I left it hooked up in the bike all winter? Did the cold kill it? (garage isn't heated)
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May 13, 2018 21:07
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Not putting it on a battery tender probably killed it, yes. Starting the bike was probably the final nail in the coffin. Batteries can act fine when not under load, then completely poo poo the bed under load. Which is probably what you’re seeing here
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May 13, 2018 21:12
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