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Driver’s side headlight connector on the Champagne Brick was a little iffy so I replaced it. Amazingly Advance Auto had one in stock and only $5. This was the old one...
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May 14, 2018 23:16
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Put my summers back on. I thought it might look a little too cheeky with the spacers and small tires but it looks pretty drat good. stock offset/skinny tires with a 2" spacer sits at almost the same place on the outside as the wide tires at stock offset.    Also.....hmmmmm....... 
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May 15, 2018 01:03
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Finally got that drat oil filter housing cap off. New problem: I guess I deformed the cap a little trying to use a crescent wrench on it.. the socket and cap are now one.  At least I won't have to worry about losing it!
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May 15, 2018 05:30
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All that tool talk made me jealous of US Tool prices / deals. I just got a Bosch Blue Professional drill/driver 10.8 volt kit. Next in line will be an impact wrench when I can afford it. The impact drill will be amazing for all those drat screws / small bolts that are littered everywhere in cars. I do have an air impact wrench, so not a huge deal.
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May 15, 2018 06:40
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Took a gander at my upper radiator hose, only to discover the water pump belt tensioner pulley cut through one end of it and the valve cover burned through the other end. I would have chalked it up to typical GM design fuckery, but turns out it was partially my fault. The plastic shroud that hides the top of the radiator and support brace also has a built-in holder to keep the upper hose up and out of the way of the engine. Thing is, you gotta tuck the hose back in whenever you put the shroud back on. Otherwise it literally freeballs inside of the blast furnace masquerading as an engine bay. I forgot to tuck that back in the very first time I took the cover off, so I've gone about a month with the hose either just hanging free or resting directly on the engine. A new hose is definitely in the works. And it's a miracle nothing's leaking (I think). Did get a low coolant warning, but I think that's the in-tank sensor being finicky. I hope.
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May 15, 2018 13:14
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Powershift posted:Put my summers back on. I thought it might look a little too cheeky with the spacers and small tires but it looks pretty drat good. stock offset/skinny tires with a 2" spacer sits at almost the same place on the outside as the wide tires at stock offset. No, you're good. Right at "cheeky", but not into "taking the piss." quote:Also.....hmmmmm.......
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May 15, 2018 17:04
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      I worked real fuckin' hard today 
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May 16, 2018 01:41
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Finally did the starter on friend's HHR. The hammer trick had slowly stopped working. She tried to start it when I got there, nice big flash and a bit of magic smoke.  Guess we timed that just right. I feel the need to strangle GM engineers though, that's a pretty tight engine bay compared to the Cobalt and Ion. Also scrapped the Saturd.   Balliver Shagnasty posted:And it's a miracle nothing's leaking (I think). Did get a low coolant warning, but I think that's the in-tank sensor being finicky. I hope. Which car? The Delta platform is notorious for that sensor making GBS threads out. Have to replace the expansion tank, but it's ~$35ish on Amazon.
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May 16, 2018 04:37
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 SaturdSTR posted:Which car? The Delta platform is notorious for that sensor making GBS threads out. Have to replace the expansion tank, but it's ~$35ish on Amazon. 2002 STS, on the same platform as the last-gen Bonneville and Aurora. Should have followed my first mind and replaced the entire tank, although that would have been $100 for a brand-new one. 90s Solo Cup fucked around with this message at 05:46 on May 16, 2018 |
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May 16, 2018 05:43
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Yeah, looks like a pretty similar design. Amazon has it for $93 for OEM, $117 for Spectra.  If it was just a one-off low coolant warning, it may be a bit low. Too bad GM never offered the sensor by itself.
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May 16, 2018 07:00
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Balliver Shagnasty posted:
Pour out a
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May 16, 2018 18:00
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If it's anything like the Saturn we had, it was pouring out 5w-30 all by itself.
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May 16, 2018 19:05
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Hypnolobster posted:If it's anything like the Saturn we had, it was pouring out 5w-30 all by itself. Oh mine usually turned oil into a cloud.
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May 16, 2018 19:40
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My $1200 SW2 turned high-mileage 20W-50 to copoius smoke, even with a bottle of Ring Seal and the PCV bypassed. Still got 36mpg. edit: Didn't leak a drat drop either.
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May 16, 2018 21:15
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Hypnolobster posted:If it's anything like the Saturn we had, it was pouring out 5w-30 all by itself. This. Didn't smoke unless it'd been parked several days, but it was definitely marking its territory.
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May 16, 2018 21:36
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Went to look at this as a birthday present to myself. Brought it home. It's filthy, but very nice.
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May 17, 2018 00:22
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Enourmo posted:Given that the ball joint is one of the 3 things triangulating the entire wheel in space, a busted/floppy one can be a serious drat detriment to the handling of a car. The strut may help smooth out bumps, but if it was wandering/numb-feeling before and now it feels tighter and more precise, it's almost 100% having the ball joint intact that makes the difference. It's way tighter and way more precise than it was before. Surprisingly so. Combine that with all the other upgrades I've been doing has really been adding up to a much better driving experience. I've got all four struts replaced with KYB AGX adjustable gas struts, a front strut tower brace I pulled from an Impala at the wreckers, 12.7" rotors and dual piston GXP calipers up front, and I just installed a ZZP rear sway bar this afternoon. After a preliminary drive around the city today it feels planted in a way that really lets the front end go. Now to find an aux trans cooler and see about that 3" exhaust.
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May 17, 2018 03:51
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Got my calipers back from being powder coated and installed them. I'm loving how they look. 
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May 17, 2018 03:56
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EvilBeard posted:Went to look at this as a birthday present to myself. Brought it home. It's filthy, but very nice.  Do a burnout. 
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May 17, 2018 04:02
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Cage posted:Happy birthday! I'm old, its not allowed.
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May 17, 2018 04:42
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EvilBeard posted:I'm old, its not allowed. Fine, then post your jorts
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May 17, 2018 12:30
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EvilBeard posted:I'm old, its not allowed. Be a rebel.
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May 17, 2018 12:55
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EvilBeard posted:I'm old, its not allowed. I saw a C5 driven by an old dude turning left in front of me (was stopped at red light, he had protected left turn) from the other direction and heard tire squealing and rowdy V8 noises, and was shocked. Then realized it was a Charger a little further up the road. 
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May 17, 2018 13:05
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Fine, then post your jorts OK, you got me. I have a dirty, dirty secret. It's an automatic.
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May 17, 2018 18:47
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EvilBeard posted:OK, you got me. I have a dirty, dirty secret. It's an automatic. *GASP* How are the autos in those anyway? I assume they're some flavor of regular slushbox and not something like the newer manumatics/dual clutch boxes
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May 17, 2018 19:50
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Gonna stop making GBS threads up the hot hatch thread with used_car_things.txt about my new Twingo:jammyozzy posted:Regrettably it does not, but I now know what my second change will be. The first is trying to work out why neither the retrofitted DAB radio nor the factory aux input work. I sense PO wiring fuckhattery.... Update: Yyyyyyyyup.  This is where the DAB aerial cable ends behind the passenger-side dash. I can't work out what the gently caress, that cable unplugged from the now missing DAB box, so why cut it and then leave the remote for the DAB box behind? My only guess is a thief saw the power cable for the dab box plugged in, tried to rip it out from under the dash and then got frustrated and did this. On the plus side I got the aux input working. Obviously as noted very briefly on page 76 of the manual, the (factory, remember) aux input box emulates a CD changer, and requires you to switch the source to CD on the (also factory) radio, pick CD1 and go from there. This is so you can use the radio controls to drive a ~10 year old iPod via said input box. The source labelled 'aux' on the radio itself, as far as I can tell, has no function. 
jammyozzy fucked around with this message at 20:08 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 19:53
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Bajaha posted:*GASP* Slushbox. Maybe a few years from now I buy a coupe with a manual and really mod it out, but I'm just digging the wind and sun and driving with the top down. I washed and detailed it today, found the rear defrost on the top was disconnected on the driver's side. I fished it out and reconnected it. It's got a bunch of little surface scratches on the bumpers and edge of the trunk. My friend is going to bring his equipment over and we're going to give it one hell of a polish and see what we can do. Most of it is going to come out. 
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May 17, 2018 20:12
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Just tossed out the old radiator hose and happened to find what looked like a build date. 6-22-01 If I read that correctly, that means the hose was original to that car. Which means I was riding around with a 16-year-old upper radiator hose. I should probably check all of the other hoses on that car.
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May 17, 2018 21:05
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Balliver Shagnasty posted:Just tossed out the old radiator hose and happened to find what looked like a build date. Pretty normal, I don't think anyone ever replaces rad hoses or for that matter fuel or brake lines, seals and o-rings etc as a preventative measure. That's why buying 20+ year old cars is so much fun/expensive. I know I didn't care about such things until 2008 when a rad hose burst on my 97 ford falcon and I thought "you loving dummy, all rubbers are poo poo by now" during the long walk home with groceries. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 21:18 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 21:16
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Bajaha posted:*GASP* 4 Speed auto. Highly shameful.
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May 17, 2018 21:36
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A GM auto at that, never seen a good one because they usually are the oldest tech deemed reliable enough/good enough so you get power sapping and boring types. Every time they add on a couple of gears poo poo goes bad for a decade. E: BTW that still is a nice vette. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 21:52 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 21:44
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Fo3 posted:Pretty normal, I don't think anyone ever replaces rad hoses or for that matter fuel or brake lines, seals and o-rings etc as a preventative measure. That's why buying 20+ year old cars is so much fun/expensive. Come to think of it, I haven't heard of anyone replacing brake or fuel lines unless a)they either ruptured or b)they were in the middle of a restoration or repair and replaced it because it was easy to get to at that point. I wouldn't have noticed that particular detail if the hose wasn't hosed up from my own negligence.
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May 17, 2018 21:50
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Fo3 posted:A GM auto at that, never seen a good one because they usually are the oldest tech deemed reliable enough/good enough so you get power sapping and boring types. Every time they add on a couple of gears poo poo goes bad for a decade. I agree, it's a very bleh transmission. If I wanted to scour near and far for the exact one I wanted, it could take months. I found this one which was a few years older than I originally wanted, but it was low miles, so I decided to just roll with automatic. It's solid for what it is.
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May 18, 2018 00:17
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Ordered new rotors and pads. For some reason the 4 piston rear rotor in the warped... and squeals like a stuck pig. Measured both the pads and the rotor... they are fine... So I'm upgrading to Baer Sport Rotors. Hopefully I can get them on Monday...
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May 18, 2018 18:10
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EvilBeard posted:Went to look at this as a birthday present to myself. Brought it home. It's filthy, but very nice. I'm jealous, I just had to get rid of my '90. Corvettes are way too much fun.
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May 18, 2018 22:34
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I put some tubes on the front of my car to keep my meth safe and pulled my nose clip from the loft Also does anyone have recommendations on removing powdercoating for welding and paint matching powder coat?  
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May 20, 2018 02:00
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Helped the old man replace the rear hatch on his outback after a piece of timber went through the old one and smashed the poo poo out of it. Mostly went smoothly except for one of the wiring connections being a different plug so dads going to splice in the one off the junked door and call it a day.
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May 20, 2018 02:46
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Found that the dash illumination and marker lights aren't working on the new car. Checked the fuses, they're all good. Looks like I'm taking the steering column apart tomorrow to see if I can repair the multifunction switch.
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May 20, 2018 04:46
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Swapped the summer tires onto my Tarrandus, my 97 Ranger. When I pulled off the front left wheel, part of the hub(?) came with it. [url] https://flic.kr/p/25YJBZK[/url] It's held together by the lugnuts holding the wheel on. It's the same on the other side. How would these normally stay together? The brake disks were replaced a couple of months ago, this is the first time I've taken the wheels off since.
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May 20, 2018 19:47
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After further inspection, I have brake lights and turn signals, but no tail lights or marker lights. I took the dash and steering column apart. I took off the multifunction switch and couldn't find anything wrong inside. Got a trouble light. I have 12v coming in on the orange wire per the wiring diagram for the car, and I have 12v going out on the brown wire. I tested the switch and it has 12v on both parking and headlights, but I have nothing else. According to the schematic, it goes to the fuse panel under the hood, and then goes to all the external lights. Now I just have to trace the wiring in the whole car. The body control model and the relay are working best I can tell. This is what I get for buying a car at noon and not thinking to check the marker lights and taillights.
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May 20, 2018 20:26
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