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Maybe the clown who had them before you used enamel on the drones. Try some sort of enamel thinner on one. As far as the primer being in the recesses, that’s somewhat typical for stripping models. Usually when you prime over it no significant amount of detail is lost.
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May 28, 2018 15:58
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:I've got some second hand metal Infinity miniatures. Stripping them is driving me crazy. I soaked them in acetone for a bit, and then with a toothbrush the majority of the paint comes off almost immediately. The only things that remain are primer in some recesses (looking almost like a dark wash) and some of the drones that had crazy thick paint on them. So I sit them in acetone for the rest of the day. After that, no progress at all. So I let them sit in it overnight and most of the day. At this point they have been in acetone for probably 30 hours or so. Zero progress. I can't touch the primer in the recesses, and the drones still have nasty thick clumps of yellow in some parts. You can use a pick (little metal tool like the dentist uses) for stuff in recesses. I have had success with toluene on stubborn material that was resistant to acetone.
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May 28, 2018 16:16
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Anyone have any advice on making custom stencils? I recently picked up the Giant Killer Robots board game and want to repaint up those mechs.
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May 28, 2018 16:21
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Just a heads-up, there's a one-day-only 60% A.C. Moore coupon today. So if you've been waiting to buy a $64 Patriot 105 this is the day.
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May 28, 2018 19:25
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Does Stynylrez work on metal? It's worked great on everything I've thrown at it before, but I've got some older metal minis in this stash and I've never tried the stuff on pewter/white-metal before.
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May 28, 2018 19:51
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Does Stynylrez work on metal? It's worked great on everything I've thrown at it before, but I've got some older metal minis in this stash and I've never tried the stuff on pewter/white-metal before. It's worked amazing on my metal Sisters of Battle I recently painted up.
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May 28, 2018 20:14
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Finished up a Tech-Priest and my next batch of 10 Skitarii. The weapons on the TPD and Skitarii Alpha are magnetized, as well as all the heads on all the Skitarii.     
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May 28, 2018 20:49
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Duct Tape posted:Finished up a Tech-Priest and my next batch of 10 Skitarii. The weapons on the TPD and Skitarii Alpha are magnetized, as well as all the heads on all the Skitarii. those came out fantastic
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May 28, 2018 20:53
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Does Stynylrez work on metal? It's worked great on everything I've thrown at it before, but I've got some older metal minis in this stash and I've never tried the stuff on pewter/white-metal before. Everything I paint is metal, and it's worked wonderfully so far. Good clean surface, bonds well to the mini, looks good.
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May 28, 2018 22:38
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Think I'm gonna try dipping a set of snowtroopers, now that my stormtroopers are done. And maybe some black Nova troopers.
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May 28, 2018 22:42
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:
If you put them in a jar with any paint stripper containing dichloromethane, the paint will come off in 30sec I’ve rescued hundreds of badly painted metal models using that stuff. Please note it’s extremely toxic. Read the instructions carefully.
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May 28, 2018 23:21
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Where do you buy scary poo poo like that?
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May 28, 2018 23:49
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Literally any hardware store. It’s just the stuff used to strip paint of metal drainpipes, roofing etc. If you’re in the US this will work https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klean-Strip-1-gal-Stripper-GKS221/100207981 Yeast fucked around with this message at 23:58 on May 28, 2018 |
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May 28, 2018 23:51
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Be aware that it will straight up melt any plastic/resin/greenstuff/whatever components. The metal is the only thing that will survive.
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May 29, 2018 00:04
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Is there a service that'll paint d&d minis? What if I just wanted 1 hero mini painted exquisitely? Most of the models I see base it upon army or use warhammer figures as the model. Would anyone here be interested in doing something like that for me? I am considering a HeroForge figure.
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May 29, 2018 00:08
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Firstborn posted:Is there a service that'll paint d&d minis? What if I just wanted 1 hero mini painted exquisitely? Most of the models I see base it upon army or use warhammer figures as the model. I'd think most commission painters who do Warhammer minis would also do D&D minis for the same price/mm.
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May 29, 2018 00:45
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Firstborn posted:Is there a service that'll paint d&d minis? What if I just wanted 1 hero mini painted exquisitely? Most of the models I see base it upon army or use warhammer figures as the model. If you're near a major city you can probably hire a decent local commission painter without fooling with shipping.
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May 29, 2018 02:25
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I'd like to use Vallejo Primer because it's "airbrush ready" and I don't need to thin it down (unlike Mr Primer Surfacer, which was the one I used before) according to Internet. It's still rather thick. Is a 0.3mm needle big enough to spray this at 25 PSI or should I go for 0.5? I gave a shot at 0.5 and Jesus that blows a lot of paint, I had to go down to like 15/20 PSI. What would be the best? 0.5mm and lower PSI or 0.3 and higher PSI? Or am I completely wrong?
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May 29, 2018 08:35
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What's everyones take on removing mold lines? The big garage-kits I work on, it's a requirement. And because the kits are big, it's easy to get rid of them. These minis though, is it worth it to try and get every mold line? Once they're painted up, are the lines generally small enough that they blend with everything, or do you still get in there with a blade and get out every mold line no matter how small?
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May 29, 2018 08:46
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Always thin your mold lines, drill your paints and file your gun barrels.
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May 29, 2018 09:33
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What's everyones take on removing mold lines? The big garage-kits I work on, it's a requirement. And because the kits are big, it's easy to get rid of them. These minis though, is it worth it to try and get every mold line? Once they're painted up, are the lines generally small enough that they blend with everything, or do you still get in there with a blade and get out every mold line no matter how small?
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May 29, 2018 10:34
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:What's everyones take on removing mold lines? The big garage-kits I work on, it's a requirement. And because the kits are big, it's easy to get rid of them. These minis though, is it worth it to try and get every mold line? Once they're painted up, are the lines generally small enough that they blend with everything, or do you still get in there with a blade and get out every mold line no matter how small? I probably spend an hour prepping each model in terms of removing mold lines, drilling barrels, adding bits to the bases, and gluing them to pieces of sprue for airbrushing. In general they really stand out.
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May 29, 2018 13:16
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On plastic minis, it is usually sufficient to just scrape at them with the back of an Xacto knife or a Citadel(tm) Mouldline(tm) Scraper(tm).
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May 29, 2018 13:34
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I’ll spend however long it takes scraping mold lines and green stuffing+filing my stuff, but I understand that that is my decision and there’s absolutely no problem if another person doesn’t feel the need to do the same. Unless of course you’re bragging about a paint job and have left the model festooned with mold lines. In that case I will silently judge you.
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May 29, 2018 13:46
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I loathe mold lines, remove em all. Even the ones nobody will see. Because you'll know its there.
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May 29, 2018 14:13
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I usually dont notice mold lines either at the start, but they begin to really stand out after priming. Use the corners of the back of your X-acto and you can scrape off most mold lines without harming detail significantly. That being said, companies that are cool with having their mold line run down detail-heavy areas are the worst companies.
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May 29, 2018 14:21
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Destroy all mold lines
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May 29, 2018 14:30
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Neurolimal posted:That being said, companies that are cool with having their mold line run down detail-heavy areas are the worst companies. This is why I was indifferent with the death of WM/H. Every loving "plastic" model had mold lines across eyes, noses, cheeks, gears, recessed details ... right across the areas your eyes are attracted to. Whomever they subcontracted their design -> molding process should be sued for negligence. Going back to the former Great Satan of GW was amazing. I went from an hour (or more) of mold line removal per model to a couple minutes. Also, the lovely resin/plastic hybrid they used didn't want to cooperate, as opposed to real plastic. GW plastics are so dreamy. 
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May 29, 2018 14:31
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Duct Tape posted:Finished up a Tech-Priest and my next batch of 10 Skitarii. The weapons on the TPD and Skitarii Alpha are magnetized, as well as all the heads on all the Skitarii. These rock. I'm always a little worried that Martian Ironearth is going to be too close to the AdMech red, but there is enough tonal variation there to really make it different. You did a great job on these models.
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May 29, 2018 14:38
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Flipswitch posted:I loathe mold lines, remove em all. Even the ones nobody will see. Because you'll know its there. This. Even lines I know can't possibly be seen need to go.
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May 29, 2018 14:38
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I never notice most mold lines until I'm painting, which makes me very mad but I'm too lazy to strip, scrape, and start over.
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May 29, 2018 14:40
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Duct Tape posted:Finished up a Tech-Priest and my next batch of 10 Skitarii. The weapons on the TPD and Skitarii Alpha are magnetized, as well as all the heads on all the Skitarii. This is one of the best looking Tech-Priests I've seen. Nice work, dude. mango sentinel posted:I never notice most mold lines until I'm painting, which makes me very mad but I'm too lazy to strip, scrape, and start over. I spent so much time yesterday getting rid of the mold lines on all my primaris and i just know that I missed some.
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May 29, 2018 14:59
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mango sentinel posted:I never notice most mold lines until I'm painting, which makes me very mad but I'm too lazy to strip, scrape, and start over. If you didn't do airbrush or blending over the mould line, you can usually just scrape it without stripping the model. Not priming that one small line isn't really going to hurt.
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May 29, 2018 15:15
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Keeping brushable primer on hand is good for those cases when you discover mould lines after priming.
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May 29, 2018 15:16
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Two Beans posted:Keeping brushable primer on hand is good for those cases when you discover mould lines after priming. I’ve scraped mound lines after priming and brushed Stynylrez back onto the spot and it looked perfect. Hell now I almost expect to do that each time just because primer makes the lines so much easier to see.
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May 29, 2018 15:25
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Where's a good place to buy brushes and pigment online in Canada? None of my local places have a good selection, and meeplemart seems to be constantly out of stock. Secret Weapon has what I want, but the shipping, customs and exchange rate are 
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May 29, 2018 16:13
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Any reason I shouldn't decant some of this Nuln Oil and Seraphim Sepia into a dropper bottle since I'm clumsy and knock stuff over?
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May 29, 2018 17:42
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Deviant posted:Any reason I shouldn't decant some of this Nuln Oil and Seraphim Sepia into a dropper bottle since I'm clumsy and knock stuff over? That seems like a great idea to me. I've managed to knock a few pots of Agrax Earthshade over and I must say washes are a pain to clean up.
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May 29, 2018 17:49
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Deviant posted:Any reason I shouldn't decant some of this Nuln Oil and Seraphim Sepia into a dropper bottle since I'm clumsy and knock stuff over? You'll just need to get bottles bigger than the standard Vallejo/Scale75/whatever sized ones, as those aren't big enough to hold the entire contents of GW's new double-sized shade pots.
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May 29, 2018 17:53
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Stephenls posted:You'll just need to get bottles bigger than the standard Vallejo/Scale75/whatever sized ones, as those aren't big enough to hold the entire contents of GW's new double-sized shade pots. Yeah, I wasn't gonna fully transfer it, I'll probably split it with my roommate anyway, so that works out well.
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May 29, 2018 17:56
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