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spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

dexefiend posted:

This is why I was indifferent with the death of WM/H. Every loving "plastic" model had mold lines across eyes, noses, cheeks, gears, recessed details ... right across the areas your eyes are attracted to.

...Warmahordes died?

berzerkmonkey posted:

These rock. I'm always a little worried that Martian Ironearth is going to be too close to the AdMech red, but there is enough tonal variation there to really make it different.

You did a great job on these models.

It's very orange, yeah. It goes weirdly well with their rust drybrush paint.

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dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Deviant posted:

Any reason I shouldn't decant some of this Nuln Oil and Seraphim Sepia into a dropper bottle since I'm clumsy and knock stuff over?

My son poured a bottle of Agrax Earthshade Gloss on the floor the day I opened it.

Luckily, I have brown carpet in my office.

spectralent posted:

...Warmahordes died?

Locally, it did (even the other stores within 50 miles).

Seldom Posts posted:

Where's a good place to buy brushes and pigment online in Canada? None of my local places have a good selection, and meeplemart seems to be constantly out of stock.

Secret Weapon has what I want, but the shipping, customs and exchange rate are :canada:

Have you checked earthpigments.com? Try and find the color matches and save in bulk? Maybe their shipping charges are better?

dexefiend fucked around with this message at 19:09 on May 29, 2018

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

spectralent posted:

...Warmahordes died?
Apparently everyone hated the new edition to the point where the game has dwindled to the point of irrelevance. My local store sold all existing stock off at 50% MSRP and still couldn't offload it all.

berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 19:14 on May 29, 2018

S.J.
May 19, 2008

Just who the hell do you think we are?

It died in some places, yeah. The game is still doing well though, but it took a while after the bad 3e launch to get back up to speed.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

S.J. posted:

It died in some places, yeah. The game is still doing well though, but it took a while after the bad 3e launch to get back up to speed.

I was trying to find the event size at Adepticon this year, but was unable to. I do know it was considerably smaller than previous years.

Duct Tape
Sep 30, 2004

Huh?

berzerkmonkey posted:

These rock. I'm always a little worried that Martian Ironearth is going to be too close to the AdMech red, but there is enough tonal variation there to really make it different.

You did a great job on these models.
Thanks! And it's all about the drybrush. Once dried, Martian Ironearth looks so-so. But put a heavy drybrush of Ryza Rust on it, then a real faint drybrush of Eldar Flesh to make edges pop, and it's great.
To practice that, I tried painting bases on a bunch of 1" wooden discs. They're only $0.10 each on Amazon, roughly the same size as your standard 25mm base, and you can try out all sorts of texture thicknesses, colors, and techniques without worrying about messing up a mini.

Zuul the Cat posted:

This is one of the best looking Tech-Priests I've seen. Nice work, dude.


I spent so much time yesterday getting rid of the mold lines on all my primaris and i just know that I missed some.
Thanks! I'm considering buying a couple for cheap on eBay (with Forgebane out, they're only $8 shipped each), painting them, and selling them to fund the hobby. I can find a bunch of painted ones listed on eBay for $50-$200, but I have no idea how much (or even if) they actually sell for. Never sold minis before.

Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Duct Tape posted:

Thanks! And it's all about the drybrush. Once dried, Martian Ironearth looks so-so. But put a heavy drybrush of Ryza Rust on it, then a real faint drybrush of Eldar Flesh to make edges pop, and it's great.
To practice that, I tried painting bases on a bunch of 1" wooden discs. They're only $0.10 each on Amazon, roughly the same size as your standard 25mm base, and you can try out all sorts of texture thicknesses, colors, and techniques without worrying about messing up a mini.

Thanks! I'm considering buying a couple for cheap on eBay (with Forgebane out, they're only $8 shipped each), painting them, and selling them to fund the hobby. I can find a bunch of painted ones listed on eBay for $50-$200, but I have no idea how much (or even if) they actually sell for. Never sold minis before.

I had a hard time unloading my fully painted AdMech army a few weeks back (post-Forgebane), but maybe it was because it was such a large force.

You might be able to find people to buy them, but you might have a hard time as well with so many cheap ones on ebay, even if they're unpainted.

Texmo
Jun 12, 2002

'Time fer a waaagh from above!
Finally got a new phone, with a nicer camera, so I feel like posting progress again

Just finished up this little guy:


Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang

Furism posted:

I'd like to use Vallejo Primer because it's "airbrush ready" and I don't need to thin it down (unlike Mr Primer Surfacer, which was the one I used before) according to Internet. It's still rather thick. Is a 0.3mm needle big enough to spray this at 25 PSI or should I go for 0.5? I gave a shot at 0.5 and Jesus that blows a lot of paint, I had to go down to like 15/20 PSI.

What would be the best? 0.5mm and lower PSI or 0.3 and higher PSI? Or am I completely wrong?

Is there another thread where I should be asking this?

Stephenls
Feb 21, 2013
[REDACTED]

Furism posted:

Is there another thread where I should be asking this?

I use an Iwata Eclipse with a .35 needle for priming, so I can’t speak to your .3, but I generally prime at 30 psi, whch is the pressure I see most often recommended in e.g. YouTube tutorials. I pretty much never go over 30, because, as you say, Jesus that blows a lot of paint.

That said? Thin your primer. Yes, it says airbrush-ready. Thin it anyway. Get a bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and a bottle of Vallejo Airbrush Flow Improver and aim for a ratio of, oh, let’s say 2 parts primer to 1 part other stuff, and then experiment with ratios of thinner (alcohol-based; thins the liquid but reduces drying time and leads to speckling), flow improver (soap-based? reduces surface tension and speckling and extends drying time), and water. Just mixing the thinner and flow improver 1:1 is a fine place to start. Get a five dollar pack of synthetic brushes from a craft store and keep one next to your airbrush, and just pour the primer and then the other stuff straight into the airbrush cup, measuring ratios by number of drops, and then stir it up with the brush.

And then, when applying your primer, don’t worry about perfect coverage on your first pass. If you apply a thin layer of primer that seems to just sort of fog over the mini, let it dry for a second, then apply another layer just like that, in about three layers you should get complete coverage; if you instead keep spraying e.g. the mini’s arm until it’s solidly covered and then move on to its torso, you’ll get uneven coverage.

Furism
Feb 21, 2006

Live long and headbang
From what you say my mistake was to not thin it down, which lead me to 0.5, which is probably too big? It's better to go 0.3 and thin down than 0.5 and not thin? Except for flowing better out of the airbrush (I suppose), is there another reason to thin down the Vallejo Primer? Do you get better details this way?

I have all these products you mention (the thinner, and the flow improver), I just didn't want to have to use them if I didn't have to. Sounds like I do have to!

Sultan Tarquin
Jul 29, 2007

and what kind of world would it be? HUH?!
I don't know how the stynylrez compares in thickness to the vallejo but they recommend a .5 needle at 20psi+ for the badger stuff.

berzerkmonkey
Jul 23, 2003

Texmo posted:

Finally got a new phone, with a nicer camera, so I feel like posting progress again

Just finished up this little guy:




This is a very good job - peace out, Necron bro!

MeinPanzer
Dec 20, 2004
anyone who reads Cinema Discusso for anything more than slackjawed trolling will see the shittiness in my posts
What's the best pin vise drill out there? I'm looking mainly to use it to drill out hands rather than to pin stuff.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon
Is there an easy way to see what size needles my airbrush has? I have a Badger Krome Renegade and I have no idea what size needles it uses, and a Badger 105 with a black knob on the back of the needle.

MeinPanzer posted:

What's the best pin vise drill out there? I'm looking mainly to use it to drill out hands rather than to pin stuff.

They're all about the same AFAIK. Get one that looks like it would be comfortable.

Neurolimal
Nov 3, 2012

MeinPanzer posted:

What's the best pin vise drill out there? I'm looking mainly to use it to drill out hands rather than to pin stuff.

At the end of the day it's just an adjustable clamp with a handle. Go with whatever look like it would be comfortable for you.

Philthy
Jan 28, 2003

Pillbug

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

Is there an easy way to see what size needles my airbrush has? I have a Badger Krome Renegade and I have no idea what size needles it uses, and a Badger 105 with a black knob on the back of the needle.

The color of the ball on the end of Badger needles tell you what size they are. You may need a conversion kit to use other sizes. (I believe the 105 will need a kit for each needle size, consists of a tip with a hole to match the size) ~$15 or ~$20 with needle.

I believe the colors/sizes are standard across all guns, but I'm not 100% sure.

That said, I absolutely looooove my Sotar and I am now a Badger convert.

Edit: Colors are not uniform across all brushes. I am seeing conflicting info between the 105 and Sotar ball colors.

Philthy fucked around with this message at 15:36 on May 30, 2018

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

Is there an easy way to see what size needles my airbrush has? I have a Badger Krome Renegade and I have no idea what size needles it uses, and a Badger 105 with a black knob on the back of the needle.


They're all about the same AFAIK. Get one that looks like it would be comfortable.

I believe the 105 comes with a .5 needle.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Booyah- posted:

I believe the 105 comes with a .5 needle.

I think the 105 is .75. Which is huge, you could spray cement through that if you thinned it a little.

Ignite Memories
Feb 27, 2005

That necron is gorgeous and also like that he is ordering two more beers.

Maybe he will share with me

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon
Looks like my XTREME 105 came with a 0.3 needle.

mango sentinel
Jan 5, 2001

by sebmojo

Ignite Memories posted:

That necron is gorgeous and also like that he is ordering two more beers.

Maybe he will share with me

Good Guy Necron

Cat Face Joe
Feb 20, 2005

goth vegan crossfit mom who vapes



Furism posted:

From what you say my mistake was to not thin it down, which lead me to 0.5, which is probably too big? It's better to go 0.3 and thin down than 0.5 and not thin? Except for flowing better out of the airbrush (I suppose), is there another reason to thin down the Vallejo Primer? Do you get better details this way?

I have all these products you mention (the thinner, and the flow improver), I just didn't want to have to use them if I didn't have to. Sounds like I do have to!

I've put Vallejo gray and black through a 0.3 multiple times with no issue. In the case of details, it's self leveling and the airbrush puts on a layer so thin that you won't have to worry about it obscuring anything.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I like to thin Vallejo primer with a drop or two flow improver, but that's mostly so I don't get dry needle tip. Stynylrez definitely doesn't need thinning in my environment, but I also live in a swamp, so caveat sprayor.

long-ass nips Diane
Dec 13, 2010

Breathe.

I also use flow improver with my primer just to make sure nothing goes weird with the tip. It doesn't clog without it, though

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

I think the 105 is .75. Which is huge, you could spray cement through that if you thinned it a little.

As sold on Amazon in the past year or two, the 105 is now including the 'Fine' needle, which is .5 vs the previous medium needle at .75. The XTreme comes with the extra fine or ultra fine at .3. If you have a blue ball on your 105, it's .5.

Krome Renegades have smaller needles. By default you get the the ultra fine needle with the tip guard prongs, that's .22 mm. It also comes with a fine needle but I forget what size that is. It's bigger.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

bonds0097 posted:

As sold on Amazon in the past year or two, the 105 is now including the 'Fine' needle, which is .5 vs the previous medium needle at .75. The XTreme comes with the extra fine or ultra fine at .3. If you have a blue ball on your 105, it's .5.

Krome Renegades have smaller needles. By default you get the the ultra fine needle with the tip guard prongs, that's .22 mm. It also comes with a fine needle but I forget what size that is. It's bigger.

I have no idea what size the fine needle is but it's never worked for me. I wonder if I just got a bad set.

It's funny seeing how much paint the 0.3 dumps through after using the 0.22. I might have to try the 0.5 just to see what happens.

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

I have no idea what size the fine needle is but it's never worked for me. I wonder if I just got a bad set.

It's funny seeing how much paint the 0.3 dumps through after using the 0.22. I might have to try the 0.5 just to see what happens.

Just checked and the Krome Renegade Fine is .33.

Badger 105 with .5 is super versatile. With sufficiently thinned paint down to around 10 psi, I can base coat different sections of an infantry-sized mini without any overspray. Or I can basecoat an entire vehicle in no time at all. It's the best brush ever. So easy to clean.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

I guess this is a good time to ask about the patriot, the nozzle on mine is on so tight that I can't get it off with finger pressure. What's the safest way to get it loose?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Booyah- posted:

I guess this is a good time to ask about the patriot, the nozzle on mine is on so tight that I can't get it off with finger pressure. What's the safest way to get it loose?

Wrap a wide elastic band around the grippy part, then gently use some needle nose pliers to loosen it.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Bloody Hedgehog posted:

Wrap a wide elastic band around the grippy part, then gently use some needle nose pliers to loosen it.

I don't even use a rubber band, but it's a good idea. I prefer something like regular pliers since the diameter is so wide.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

I don't even use a rubber band, but it's a good idea. I prefer something like regular pliers since the diameter is so wide.

Sure. Wasn't quite sure the diameter. Some brushes, like Iwata, have teen tiny little nozzles you have to use kid gloves around. Others like on my secondary Paasche Talon you could use workshop tools on since it's so chunky and robust.

My third stringer Paasche VL you could just huck at the wall until it came apart, because LOL it's a VL. Made in me-hee-co out of melted radial tires and pig-iron.

darnon
Nov 8, 2009
Also try soaking it in warm/hot water to expand the parts.

Kung Fu Fist Fuck
Aug 9, 2009

Duct Tape posted:

Thanks! I'm considering buying a couple for cheap on eBay (with Forgebane out, they're only $8 shipped each), painting them, and selling them to fund the hobby. I can find a bunch of painted ones listed on eBay for $50-$200, but I have no idea how much (or even if) they actually sell for. Never sold minis before.

on the left side of the search page you can find a tick box to show sold listings in the last 90 days

typing tech priest and ticking sold listings then sorting by price high to low shows me someone bought a pro painted titty tech priest for 150 bucks

the actual model youre talking about has sold for between $9-110 depending on certain factors, so ymmv

mango sentinel
Jan 5, 2001

by sebmojo
WIP

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Pro as gently caress.

I might have underestimated how long it is going to take to paint my Forgeworld Falchion. I just spent an hour painting 2 Howling Griffons emblems...

So much more to go.

dexefiend fucked around with this message at 04:36 on May 31, 2018

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon
I spent 30 minutes trying to freehand something on the label on the side of a gun before I said "gently caress it" and printed out a decal.

mango sentinel
Jan 5, 2001

by sebmojo
More progress for the night!



Also what's a good micro set/sol tutorial. I've got decals going on this guy's banner.

bonds0097
Oct 23, 2010

I would cry but I don't think I can spare the moisture.
Pillbug

mango sentinel posted:

More progress for the night!



Also what's a good micro set/sol tutorial. I've got decals going on this guy's banner.

Its dead simple. Gloss coat. Apply micro set. Apply decal. Apply more micro set with brush. Hair dry. Apply micro sol and use brush to flatten/stretch out the decal (just brush center out usually). Hair dry. Repeat until the decal looks how you want.

Its amazing poo poo, squad numbers on a curved primaris knee become trivial to do with these magic chemicals.

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Zuul the Cat
Dec 24, 2006

Grimey Drawer

mango sentinel posted:

More progress for the night!



Also what's a good micro set/sol tutorial. I've got decals going on this guy's banner.

Hot drat this is a good looking dark Eldar. That helmet especially is aces, and that skin-cape is terrifying.

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