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Great Beer posted:I feel like I've stumbled on to some kind of secret to first layer adhesion that never gets talked about. I've been struggling with getting some PLA to stick to my aluminum build plate. Painters tape, glue sticks, bare metal weren't working even after leveling all four corners to the best of my ability. I needed a print asap so I got annoyed and threw some printer paper on it. That reminded me of the automated 3d printing system that was up on hackaday last year. It'd print on paper then drop the floor out when it was done: https://hackaday.com/2017/06/24/hackaday-prize-entry-a-3d-printer-management-system/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pEV_lTtuz6U
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May 24, 2018 22:38
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That's pretty neat. I bet it would be really useful for automating a print farm. Integrate a QR code on the paper so it can scan, load the appropriate file, and dump it into a conveyor belt to bring it to a location for shipping.
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May 24, 2018 23:33
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Does anyone have any recommendations for a 3D pen?
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May 24, 2018 23:55
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duffmensch posted:Does anyone have any recommendations for a 3D pen? I own this el cheapo that works okay for the limited use it gets (mostly fixing up separated layers or making small ugly functional things): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B076HK7XN3/ Devon at Make Anything uses his for art projects and has tried a lot of them: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEpQnHMpFsM https://www.makeanything.design/favorites/
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May 25, 2018 00:22
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porksmash posted:I'd say eSun PLA+ is the easiest, cheapest material for just printing stuff. I've never been disappointed and I get great prints out of it every time. I agree with this, and also that their fire engine red is loving awesome. Related, I really want to print miniatures but realize that FDM isn't the best format for that. I'd still like to see just what I can do, so I've put a little bit of effort into it. The first time I printed in Slic3r PE, .05 layers, .25 nozzle. Not bad, but standard supports ruined the overall quality. I might use them for mooks, but not good enough for painting and display. Printed in eSun PLA+ fire engine red:    I was introduced to meshmixer tree supports last night, and decided to give them a whirl with what the printer was loaded with. .08 layers, .4 nozzle, eSun PLA+ grey:    What a god damned difference tree supports make! It definitely feels more like art than science to determine the right model orientation and support settings, but ... gently caress man. I'm going to spend the weekend trying to dial in the .25 nozzle printing with tree supports. It's almost good enough as is for me to feel comfortable displaying, with no more clean up needed than what my thumbnail could offer. I'm excited to see what I can do!
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May 25, 2018 01:05
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I just messed with printing some minis last week and came up with some really good results. I detached the base in meshmixer and printed separate (had issues with the base warping) and printed the actual mini 40-45 degrees tilted back using tree supports. On my cr-10s using the stock .4 nozzle and .08mm layers I was getting very good results for an fdm
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May 25, 2018 02:14
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Tried this calibration cube at 200C, 45mm/s max, but changed the layer height from .26 to .13 and dang the results are about perfect. There's one string in the Y and the points in the X and Y are very slightly blobby. The side I was having separation issues on looks bang on so far. Sides/corners look pretty dang straight, which was where it was most noticeable printing at 200C and .26 before. Guess I got to suck it up and quit printing at .26 and low temps then.
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May 25, 2018 02:29
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Cura’s support game is way beyond Slic3r’s, in my opinion. Give that model a shot with line supports and it might come out really well.
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May 25, 2018 03:57
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Wow that grey one turned out incredibly well! What model are you using and how tall did you print it?
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May 25, 2018 04:49
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Mister Sinewave posted:Wow that grey one turned out incredibly well! What model are you using and how tall did you print it? It's the paladin demo model from HeroForge, printed at 30cm top to bottom. tuyop posted:Cura’s support game is way beyond Slic3r’s, in my opinion. Give that model a shot with line supports and it might come out really well. This i3 Mk3 is my first printer, and I just assembled it about a month ago. I haven't used any slicers other than Slic3r and PrusaControl, but I love learning how to use new tools! Any Cliff's Notes on what to be ready for fiddling with Cura for the first time?
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May 25, 2018 05:12
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NeurosisHead posted:It's the paladin demo model from HeroForge, printed at 30cm top to bottom. What are you thinking Cura will give you ? Cura does hide things from you including things like the settings if you want to print the perimeter first or infill first. I think it's rude of them to tuck them away assuming a person doesn't need them.
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May 25, 2018 05:19
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tuyop had mentioned that they felt Cura created better supports than Slic3r. I don't mind plugging a model into Meshmixer to make tree supports, but I also like the idea of a slicer that natively creates supports that aren't as obtrusive as Slic3r's.
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May 25, 2018 05:37
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Meshmixer is an arcane piece of software. I only ever gently caress with it once or twice to get a relieble tree support profile and then God forbid I have to touch it again. Usually a couple hours work though
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May 25, 2018 06:35
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NeurosisHead posted:It's the paladin demo model from HeroForge, printed at 30cm top to bottom. You got some big hands. 
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May 25, 2018 06:46
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NeurosisHead posted:tuyop had mentioned that they felt Cura created better supports than Slic3r. I don't mind plugging a model into Meshmixer to make tree supports, but I also like the idea of a slicer that natively creates supports that aren't as obtrusive as Slic3r's. The latest version of Cura added tree supports as one of the experimental features.
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May 25, 2018 08:42
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This guy's 3d printed tabletop channel had some good results doing minis with Cura with some settings tweaks. The video is pretty slow and you can kind of skip the first 7 minutes if you want to get right to the settings he's talking about : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qDW7g3JOqLA A Cura developer has made some comments about the settings changes in the video comments which are interesting.
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May 25, 2018 09:52
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Rexxed posted:This guy's 3d printed tabletop channel had some good results doing minis with Cura with some settings tweaks. The video is pretty slow and you can kind of skip the first 7 minutes if you want to get right to the settings he's talking about : I'll dive into that after work today, thanks!
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May 25, 2018 15:57
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I need to replace the PEI on my heat bed on the mk3 . Instructions say to use d-limonene which is an organic solvent to remove the glue. Can I use Simple Green instead. Is there any advantage of using this over something more fast acting like acetone? Mind you, the mk3 bed is a piece of Springsteel and not the whole bed so it can take some harsh chemicals.
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May 25, 2018 19:28
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Rexxed posted:This guy's 3d printed tabletop channel had some good results doing minis with Cura with some settings tweaks. The video is pretty slow and you can kind of skip the first 7 minutes if you want to get right to the settings he's talking about : Thanks I loving hate this guy and his "#1 magic sauce" video e: and the Cura developer in the comments essentially says "you're just making it print slower and that's why it looks sharper" Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:40 on May 25, 2018 |
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May 25, 2018 19:37
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Sagebrush posted:Thanks I loving hate this guy and his "#1 magic sauce" video Yeah it sounds like he's selling something but it's just a file of cura settings. The main ones he mentioned in the video are top layers 99999 so it thinks everything is a top layer, 100% infill, and 12.5 mm/s. I didn't look at the files and he mentioned a friend is getting good results with less infill, but the results are pretty good for a regular .4mm nozzle.
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May 25, 2018 19:47
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Sagebrush posted:Thanks I loving hate this guy and his "#1 magic sauce" video yeah here lemme save you a very painful 22 minutes: use cura at 100% infill and print really, really slowly. you should use a retraction test to dial that in for your filament, but that's pretty much it.
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May 25, 2018 20:36
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The infill doesn't even matter. He's overriding it with the other settings he put in. All you have to do to achieve that quality is ensure your extruder is calibrated, print with several perimeters, and massively slow down your perimeter speed.
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May 25, 2018 20:43
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I think the top layers 9999 and bottom 0 setting was also halving the speed for the outside layer and he was set to 25 mm/s so it was doing 12.5 mm/s on the outside. Then the second outside shell was 25 mm/s. Then the infill was 12.5 mm/s as noted by the Cura dev in the comments because it's treating most of the model as a top layer and that's obviously unnecessary. It was like 5am when I watched it so I should have been a bit more clear about the details because of all of his repetitive positivity for
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May 25, 2018 20:47
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Yeah, but his cura settings are dumb, and he doesn't seem to have any idea what it's actually doing. Just print slow. You don't have to trick cura into thinking everything's a top layer, that's dumb. Honestly his prints still don't even look that good for the speed he's printing at, getting temp and retraction right are just as important and he doesn't do any of that.
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May 25, 2018 22:43
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:I got some of that esun pla+ in fire engine red and it's absolutely my new favorite. The layer adhesion is a huge step up from the inland stuff I've been using, and it's still cheap. The new Inland Premium PLA+ is the ESUN PLA+, just cheaper. It is just hitting Microcenters now, comes in a blue box, $15.99.
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May 26, 2018 07:15
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So I was revising my extruder config, and messed something up. At one point I entered 'M92 182.3' instead of having the E front of the number. Now, when I send the command 'G1 E100 F100' to extrude 100mm over 60 seconds, it instead retracts for that distance/time. what do? code:e2: G1 E100 and G1 E-100 do the same thing 
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May 26, 2018 21:35
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Djarum posted:The new Inland Premium PLA+ is the ESUN PLA+, just cheaper. It is just hitting Microcenters now, comes in a blue box, $15.99. please don't tempt me, my nearest microcenter involves a nightmarish journey into the suburbs
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May 26, 2018 22:52
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CloFan posted:So I was revising my extruder config, and messed something up. At one point I entered 'M92 182.3' instead of having the E front of the number. Now, when I send the command 'G1 E100 F100' to extrude 100mm over 60 seconds, it instead retracts for that distance/time. What version of Marlin are you running? There was a notable bug a few versions back that caused something very similar to that behavior. And yeah, the firmware should have just ignored that line. I suggest that you just run an M502 (resets your options to the hardcoded defaults), and if that doesn't work, reinstall the board firmware and start fresh.
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May 27, 2018 15:27
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So, I am starting a Fusion 360 tutorial and clicking around I discovered that Fusion has a python API? So I can probably do some of the type the model type stuff I wanted. E: so, I duplicated a machining project I'm working on that I had in SCAD. There are some things that will probably take getting used to, but it came together pretty quickly, and the timeline feature was pretty useful when I found I had misplaced an object that was used in a bunch of operations. Rewind, fix the position, jump back and everything is good. The rendering is nice, but drat are those credits expensive (I'm just doing everything local, but some features are cloud-only). The actual rendering process is surprisingly opaque. I'm not getting a progress bar or anything, just a pegged CPU, and then later things show up in the render gallery. carticket fucked around with this message at 03:21 on May 30, 2018 |
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May 30, 2018 01:08
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Got a Noctua 40mm fan to replace or supplement the 30mm fan on my Monoprice mini.  Not sure why they opted for tiny rubber buttplugs instead of normal machine screws to hold it in place though.
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May 31, 2018 00:39
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Parts Kit posted:Got a Noctua 40mm fan to replace or supplement the 30mm fan on my Monoprice mini.
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May 31, 2018 01:15
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Ah okay, that makes sense. Thanks!
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May 31, 2018 01:56
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loving poo poo the Noctua is quiet. I know they have a rep for that but drat, you have to stick your ear right on top of the thing to hear it. Now if only the rest of the printer was that quiet.
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May 31, 2018 02:39
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If you want a cheaper alternative to the noctua fan, or need a quieter fan that they don't offer check out Sunon. I have one that is super quiet and powerful. Noctua are dead quiet, but the Sunon is like a whispered breath in your ear it's great and cheap
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May 31, 2018 03:00
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I know it's dumb, and I KNOW they make an extremely high quality product, but I can't bring myself to use Noctua stuff because I hate brown.
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May 31, 2018 13:07
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I replaced the stock 40mm fan on my E3D Titan Aero with a cheapie 40x40x20 "gdstime" fan from eBay. I had one on hand from another project and when I compared the specs, it is massively quieter while moving the same amount of air at a higher static pressure (so it actually moves more air than the original did). I'm not sure why E3D decided to buy the loudest goddamn 40mm fan on the planet to have running all the time, but I highly recommend the upgrade once your fans start becoming the loudest part of your printer. Sometimes when it turns on, it vibrates all weird, but I just flick it and it runs fine. I think I paid like $2 for the fan so you kinda get what you pay for I guess. Downside: I can't hear it running so I forget I turned the printer on to preheat. The E3D fan was so loud I could easily hear it buzzing away from the other room.
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May 31, 2018 13:41
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Parts Kit posted:Got a Noctua 40mm fan to replace or supplement the 30mm fan on my Monoprice mini. Do you have v2? I need to replace my fan as it is going out I think. Did you wire it directly to the 12v or use the existing fan wires?
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May 31, 2018 14:12
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I ordered some refill coils from filaments.ca and they threw in a free master spool, neat   That label had me confused, PETG is denser than PLA and shouldn't need a thicker coil, and indeed the PETG I ordered was about as thick as the PLA. I guess they mixed up PETG and ABS.
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May 31, 2018 16:24
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Don't mind me, just posting some fresh print images.   
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May 31, 2018 18:27
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ClassH posted:Do you have v2? I need to replace my fan as it is going out I think. Did you wire it directly to the 12v or use the existing fan wires?
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May 31, 2018 23:03
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