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BMan posted:I ordered some refill coils from filaments.ca and they threw in a free master spool, neat Both times I've purchased PETG and PLA from the same brand, the PETG has sat higher on the spool. I wonder if they can't wind it as tightly?
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Jun 1, 2018 17:03
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It's noticeably springier than PLA, so maybe? I've never noticed any of my PET spools being particularly loose, though. If anything they usually feel more tightly wound than the PLA ones.
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Jun 1, 2018 17:17
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When I got my first roll of petg I was still using the stock spool peg on the mpsm, which has a ton of rolling resistance. When the printer pulled in filament, the spool would make a sound similar to the one you get when you pick up a 30-pack of water bottles and they all rub together. It was kinda cool, and also extremely annoying.
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Jun 1, 2018 18:04
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Has anyone tried the new Creality Ender 3 yet? I have seen a bunch of positive reviews and recommendations for people to get it, even some claims it puts out nearly Prusa quality prints at a way lower cost, but obviously I don't know how accurate or unbiased that really is. Requiring a little more set up and fine tuning out of the box isn't a deal breaker for me but I'd like to know as much as possible about what I'd be getting in to.
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Jun 1, 2018 18:20
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Pretty much any FDM printer can put out "prusa-quality" prints with enough tweaking and calibration. The Prusa advantage is that its good quality-control and clever self-calibration features mean you don't have to do that.
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Jun 1, 2018 18:22
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Parts Kit posted:I have the V2 and just nipped off the old and spliced in the new. Perfect, that's what I want to do. Can you post or send the link you of which one you bought.
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Jun 1, 2018 18:32
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FromTheShire posted:Has anyone tried the new Creality Ender 3 yet? I have seen a bunch of positive reviews and recommendations for people to get it, even some claims it puts out nearly Prusa quality prints at a way lower cost, but obviously I don't know how accurate or unbiased that really is. Requiring a little more set up and fine tuning out of the box isn't a deal breaker for me but I'd like to know as much as possible about what I'd be getting in to. For the price of the Ender 3 I'd just get a Monoprice printer and get a known good printer with a full year replacement warranty that includes shipping both ways if something ever goes bad.
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Jun 1, 2018 18:51
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ClassH posted:Perfect, that's what I want to do. Can you post or send the link you of which one you bought. https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M/ It comes with splices and a connector to do it with by the way, so you don't have to cut off the original connector if you don't want to. They'll just have to stick out of the wire wrap is all. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 1, 2018 |
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Jun 1, 2018 23:25
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periodic reminder that PET is love, PET is life As long as you have a bed that can keep it attached (clean glass at 90C works very well for me) it's just absolutely gorgeous stuff. Strong, warp-free, odorless, clean, sandable, cheap. Get on it
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Jun 2, 2018 00:53
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I'm a big fan of Onyx after how well it held up on my last project. Unfortunately it is still plastic and still breaks when you hit it with 3 ounces of titanium at x thousand rpm.  
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Jun 2, 2018 01:02
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Great Beer posted:I'm a big fan of Onyx after how well it held up on my last project. Unfortunately it is still plastic and still breaks when you hit it with 3 ounces of titanium at x thousand rpm. Onyx is the Markforged brand for their carbon-reinforced nylon, right? I have a spool of MatterHackers' NylonX, which is functionally identical as far as I can tell, and it's excellent stuff. Extremely stiff, tough and strong, and has a great look. I'm kind of stingy with it because it's rather expensive but man does it make nice parts. I've also seen it sold under the brand "CarbonX" at about 2/3 the price of NylonX and less than half the price of Onyx. Maybe I'll try that one when I use up this roll. But yeah basically PETG is the superior alternative to PLA and nylon is the better ABS.
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Jun 2, 2018 01:45
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Had a good day on my printer today. I have motion on the X and Y and the motors are starting to be wired up  And I had a bit of fun, enjoy the highlights   A novel solution to the belts rubbing? We shall see 
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Jun 2, 2018 14:42
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I recently converted my printer Z axis to a funky single motor gear transmission of my own design. More pics and writeup on the OpenBuilds site: https://openbuilds.com/builds/voxel-ox-with-helix-gear-z-transmission-single-z-motor.7174/
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Jun 3, 2018 15:54
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peepsalot posted:I recently converted my printer Z axis to a funky single motor gear transmission of my own design. That's really interesting, do you have a video of the mechanism operating?
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Jun 3, 2018 16:41
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I'm looking to pick up a beginner printer $300 or cheaper with the intention of printing minis and parts for gunpla (armor pieces, weapons, terrain). It seems like the general recommendations for my budget are the Monoprice Select Mini V2, MP Select Plus, or the Ender 3. A big plus would be minimal modifications required out of the box. Any advice on where to start?
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Jun 3, 2018 16:52
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Ender 3 would be my bet, the creality design is just a really solid budget printer at any size Can anyone with some duetwifi experience help me out I believe I have uploaded a corrupted config file and now my board disconnects when I try to access the settings panel my board disconnects. This has the unfortunate impact of not being able to upload a new config file to replace the now currupt config I still have terminal access through pronterface/YAT and have been able to upload the latest firmware in my poking. Can anyone here help me out with how to upload a config file and have the board read it? Thanks y'all, just this and one or two things and my printer is up and runnings🏃
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Jun 4, 2018 04:29
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Yank the MicroSD card and put it in a computer Edit: This section might be useful too if config.g isn't the issue: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Inst..._your_Duet_WiFi
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Jun 4, 2018 04:52
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porksmash posted:Yank the MicroSD card and put it in a computer Now im a little over my head in software, but I think I get it I delete the config file from the duet sd card put a generated config file on it Then I place it back into the duet and run a command to use the latest config file? I understand this method of placing files onto the SD and then issuing a command to update the board. But with the config.g does it just do that at startup? Or do I need to issue a command to update the config? Edit: I fixed the issue, my wifi module just needed to be rebooted, go figure Jestery fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Jun 4, 2018 |
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Jun 4, 2018 06:33
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Say I broke a small plastic button mechanism internally, could I use a 3d printing pen to make a repair to the broken bit and would it hold up to repeated mashing by future users? The button is kind of mounted on a pushrod, and the part of the button that sleeves around the pushrod has cracked. Due to how tight the button is in its cavity it doesn't return to its original position correctly any more without a lot of jiggling.
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Jun 4, 2018 12:52
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Sagebrush posted:periodic reminder that PET is love, PET is life Printing PETG on bare glass got me a chip in my glass. I use a spritz of hairspray for everything now.
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Jun 4, 2018 12:59
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Sagebrush posted:Onyx is the Markforged brand for their carbon-reinforced nylon, right? I have a spool of MatterHackers' NylonX, which is functionally identical as far as I can tell, and it's excellent stuff. Extremely stiff, tough and strong, and has a great look. I'm kind of stingy with it because it's rather expensive but man does it make nice parts. Nylon is better than ABS at everything -- including warping.
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Jun 4, 2018 14:38
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Budgie posted:Say I broke a small plastic button mechanism internally, could I use a 3d printing pen to make a repair to the broken bit and would it hold up to repeated mashing by future users? Probably yes / probably no. 3D printed parts aren't as strong as injection-molded parts, and tiny parts definitely don't stand up well to repeated stress. It'll probably get crunched. A real 3D printed part will still be stronger than one made with a pen, though, because it will have better layer adhesion. insta posted:Nylon is better than ABS at everything -- including warping. The carbon version hardly warps at all, and Taulman's 910 is very stable. Plain Nylon-6 warps pretty severely yes but that's why the printer-specific blends exist.
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Jun 4, 2018 16:52
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Budgie posted:Say I broke a small plastic button mechanism internally, could I use a 3d printing pen to make a repair to the broken bit and would it hold up to repeated mashing by future users?
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Jun 4, 2018 17:07
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Sagebrush posted:The carbon version hardly warps at all, and Taulman's 910 is very stable. Plain Nylon-6 warps pretty severely yes but that's why the printer-specific blends exist. Nylon-X? What about bed adhesion? I've never been able to get glue sticks to work properly and that's been the hold-off on me printing Nylons.
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Jun 4, 2018 17:17
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NylonX or Taulman 910 are what I use, yes. And not all glue sticks are created equal; they have different blends of PVA and PVP (and maybe other adhesives) and so some stick much better than others. The only ones I've had consistent reliable performance from are the Elmer's "disappearing purple" school glue sticks. Other blends do nothing or appear to even weaken the adhesion. Apply a light coat of that to the heated glass bed and it'll stick. I forget the bed temperature I use but it's not anything crazy, probably between 70 and 90 degrees.
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Jun 4, 2018 17:36
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Budgie posted:Say I broke a small plastic button mechanism internally, could I use a 3d printing pen to make a repair to the broken bit and would it hold up to repeated mashing by future users? Eh, maybe? Sounds like a job for a CA glue or something like E-6000 or a small dab of gorilla glue of it can hold itself stable while it expands/cures. 3d printing pens can be cool but The "thing" with them is that (unlike a hot glue gun) it doesn't really melt onto or around things, because the little squirt of melted plastic doesn't hold much heat. As soon as it hits something it pretty much cools instantly. That's of course what makes it possible to "draw" with it in mid air but it also means it doesn't work like a hot glue blob, it's not going to easily gap fill a repair or otherwise act like a glue itself.
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Jun 4, 2018 17:37
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Wow Taulman stuff got expensive.
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Jun 4, 2018 17:51
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~$35/lb on Amazon? That's the price it's always been. It's more that the other filaments got a lot cheaper while Taulman stuff, being for a specialty market, didn't. I remember when a spool of regular old PLA cost sixty dollars. Again, using PETG for the majority of stuff and 910/nylonX (basically depending on whether the part should be a bit flexible or as stiff as possible) only where required is a good combination that won't break the bank.
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Jun 4, 2018 18:06
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I paid $20 a spool from Taulman a few years ago. Just wish they were 1.75mm now instead of 3mm.
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Jun 4, 2018 19:29
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That Gobbo posted:I'm looking to pick up a beginner printer $300 or cheaper with the intention of printing minis and parts for gunpla (armor pieces, weapons, terrain). It seems like the general recommendations for my budget are the Monoprice Select Mini V2, MP Select Plus, or the Ender 3. A big plus would be minimal modifications required out of the box. Any advice on where to start? I have never used the Ender 3 so I have no comment on it, but the Monoprice Select Plus is pretty solid out of the box and there is a fairly good sized community for it and it's clone brethren (Wanhao Duplicator i3 Plus and several others). There are a lot of mods and add ons you can get for it, but none of them are required. In case you didn't know, use code SELPLUS at check out on Monoprice to get $100 off, brings it down to $300.
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Jun 4, 2018 19:38
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Anyone got any experience with getting 2020 extrusion in the UK? I can cut it myself but is £6ish per 500mm from China the best option or are there companies in the UK that are better?
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Jun 4, 2018 19:48
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mewse posted:That's really interesting, do you have a video of the mechanism operating? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u3MYdSj3Oc Skip to 5:30 if you just wanna see the gears move.
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Jun 4, 2018 20:55
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I've got a casting project coming up, anyone ever tried lost wax casting filaments of any sort? I'm looking at this stuff through a Prusa Mk2 : https://www.machinablewax.com/product.php?product=52
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Jun 5, 2018 12:25
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Yooper posted:I've got a casting project coming up, anyone ever tried lost wax casting filaments of any sort? Well, I've done investment casting with PLA... from talking to some other people, best bet there is to get the natural, unpigmented stuff. Or try the wax, be interested to find out how it works. PLA's a lot cheaper though. 
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Jun 5, 2018 13:54
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What's a good 3D printer for a novice who just wants to print off OK-looking D&D terrain?
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Jun 5, 2018 14:53
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Gort posted:What's a good 3D printer for a novice who just wants to print off OK-looking D&D terrain? The MP Select Mini V2 is pretty bees-knees low investment point and high quality printing.
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Jun 5, 2018 16:18
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Foxtrot_13 posted:Anyone got any experience with getting 2020 extrusion in the UK? I can cut it myself but is £6ish per 500mm from China the best option or are there companies in the UK that are better? I haven't bought any yet but I think RS has it cheaper
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Jun 5, 2018 18:21
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The MP Select Mini V2 is pretty bees-knees low investment point and high quality printing. Hmm, I'm reading around this one a bit and it sounds like it has some wiring problems - are things like this commonly necessary?
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Jun 5, 2018 20:31
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Gort posted:Hmm, I'm reading around this one a bit and it sounds like it has some wiring problems - are things like this commonly necessary? Depends on how you define "necessary". I've not bothered to "fix" that issue and have yet to have any bed heater problems, but I bought my v2 within the last couple months and there are several 'stealth' upgrades to the unit that aren't really documented. Like, the bed wiring on my unit doesn't look anything like the one in that guide and I didn't see any pinch/bend points in the range of motion when I checked it out. I've also been printing pretty much non-stop and haven't had any heating issues. One plus on the Mini V2, it has very limited risk of setting itself on fire because it actually has thermal runaway protections enabled in the current shipping firmware.
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Jun 5, 2018 21:07
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Not a double-post, guess what just hit the Monoprice website? https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=30994 I don't know how excited/not excited I should be about it. Looks interesting.
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Jun 5, 2018 21:22
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