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A $2500 2006 Mazda sounds a little suspiciously cheap, but I'd probably trust that a lot more than any 90s Dodge. Mazdas are pretty solid overall, though anything 12+ years old is going to be a crapshoot and depend on maintenance history like was said. There's got to be a better list of options for used cars in your area.
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Jun 1, 2018 19:16
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:do not suggest that anyone buy an intrepid I didn't. It's a matter of the particular cars suggested and a general recommendation. A '98 Intrepid is a sub-$1000 car. Any car in that category is going to be a maintenance lottery. It doesn't matter who made it.
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Jun 1, 2018 19:21
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Is a Chrysler product that costs $10k more than the competition but burns $1k less fuel annually likely to be cheaper to own in the long run, or is the Hybrid Pacifica likely to cost a fortune to keep fixing? I'm curious which of these four options is likely to be cheapest to own long-term: Pacifica Hybrid, Odyssey, Sienna, Grand Caravan. https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/Find.do?action=sbs&id=39483&id=38764&id=39726&id=39622
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Jun 1, 2018 19:23
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The Toyota or Honda will be the cheapest to own in the long run, no questions asked. What is with this thread and putting Chrysler products up against literally any Japanese brand??
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Jun 1, 2018 19:35
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The Pacifica Hybrid is pretty tempting and the Pacific is a compelling product. Hybrid systems are pretty reliable regardless of who makes them. If you were talking about a lower price premium I think it's more tempting, but at that price point you have to save a thousand bucks a year in gas for ten years to break even against the purchase premium (not accounting for time value of money etc). That seems like a steep sell. Solution: Used Pacifica Hybrid beacuse I am assuming that much like most FCA product it will depreciate at roughly 9.8 m/s/s
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Jun 1, 2018 19:42
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:why on earth would the first statement be true The only reliability I'm talking about is what the old car review sites say (and they're 75% 10/10, 25% rated 1/10 on about every car so they're pretty useless), I don't have any opinion on it other than that, which is why I posted in this thread. Guinness posted:A $2500 2006 Mazda sounds a little suspiciously cheap, but I'd probably trust that a lot more than any 90s Dodge. Mazdas are pretty solid overall, though anything 12+ years old is going to be a crapshoot and depend on maintenance history like was said. http://wichita.craigslist.com (if you think a 98 Dodge listed for 2,500 is ludicrous you'll crack up seeing some of the cars and prices on there.) Here's the Mazda 3 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/254947888576941 There was also an 00 Odyssey that I was eyeing, but from what I've read they need a transmission fluid change every 30k (and the first thing Google autocompletes is HONDA ODYSSEY TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS) so I guess I'm just looking for a car with maintenance records in general at my $2,500 price point.
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Jun 1, 2018 20:30
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thylacine posted:The only reliability I'm talking about is what the old car review sites say (and they're 75% 10/10, 25% rated 1/10 on about every car so they're pretty useless), I don't have any opinion on it other than that, which is why I posted in this thread. They're all 20-year-old cars and are going to have all the problems any 20-year-old car will have. As I said before, the maintenance histories of the individual cars means a lot more than who made it. They're all going to have random stuff break at regular intervals.
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Jun 1, 2018 20:34
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panthers are pretty reliable in your price range
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Jun 1, 2018 20:35
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If he's buying a $2,500 car, I hope he has like... another $2,500 for immediate repairs in the next year.
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Jun 1, 2018 21:35
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I've had many cheap cars, they don't just magically fall apart because they're cheap. Amazingly products that cost at least 20-30k new don't just disintegrate after 10 or 15 years unless they're driven by morons and not kept up. Plenty of people actually do keep up on maintenance and caring for their cars and that's why there is a mix of new and 10-15 year old cars on the road. 20 years might be pushing it unless it's an enthusiast car or it was owned by a geezer, but god drat I've never spent $2,500 on any kind of maintenance on a car. The only cheap car I had that was a turd was a 90's Dodge Truck and I got that for free. My $400 Volvo 240DL lasted 5 years and my $700 Ford Taurus lasted four. The only major things they both needed were tires and that's about $400 all together. Turning a wrench and doing basic stuff doesn't really cost that much when you have a car-wise dad and a garage full of tools+Youtube to help you out. I'm sure I spent more on gas during the time I owned those cars than maintenance. Now yes, if you're scared to open the hood go buy a new car or less than 5 years old car, but plenty of us can manage fine with older used cars, it's not that big of a deal.
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Jun 1, 2018 22:08
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thylacine posted:Turning a wrench and doing basic stuff doesn't really cost that much when you have a car-wise dad and a garage full of tools+Youtube to help you out. I'm sure I spent more on gas during the time I owned those cars than maintenance. "Basic stuff" doesn't include extensive A/C repair work ($1200-2000) or automatic transmission replacement/rebuilding ($2000-4000), and that's the kind of stuff that goes wrong in 20 year old cars. If you're penny-pinching normal people can do their own brakes, cooling system, alternator, debug electrics, etc, but those two big jobs are the major killers of beaters. You can put in a used transmission, but that's outside the comfort zone of most home mechanics.
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Jun 1, 2018 22:26
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thylacine posted:Turning a wrench and doing basic stuff doesn't really cost that much when you have a car-wise dad and a garage full of tools this is common fyi
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Jun 1, 2018 22:30
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Yeah, most old cars go to the scrapyard when the transmission dies and it costs more than the car's worth to fix. And A/C almost always needs major repair by about the 150,000 mark.
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Jun 1, 2018 22:49
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A 20 year old intrepid or a 13 year old mazda? How is this even a question, our resident FCA fanboy excepted (who actually owns a miatas with a fiat badge). I lean toward the 3 over the 6. I think one of the motors in the 6, I want to say the v6, but I could be wrong, had a couple of issues.
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Jun 1, 2018 23:48
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Someone talk me out of getting a BMW E90/E46 or E39/E60 in the 100k-150k mileage range as a commuter car. I like to work on my own cars (experience with Jeeps, Subarus, Honda, and Saab). I'm well aware that these can either be super reliable or horrible money pits (Again, I've owned and maintained multiple Saabs, I'm a glutton for punishment.  ) I tend to do the beater route and drive it till the wheels fall off.If I do go with a 10-15 year old BMW is there anything specific to look for/avoid? (Like early '00 Saabs with sludge, or Subaru's with Headgaskets) It seems like the basic "Well maintained with records" is the name of the game as usual. Trying to keep it under $5000 and from looking at Craigslist, that gets me anywhere from 2000-2007 and 110k-170k, JayKay fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Jun 2, 2018 |
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Jun 1, 2018 23:58
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JayKay posted:Someone talk me out of getting a BMW E90/E46 or E39/E60 in the 100k-150k mileage range as a commuter car. I like to work on my own cars (experience with Jeeps, Subarus, Honda, and Saab). I'm well aware that these can either be super reliable or horrible money pits (Again, I've owned and maintained multiple Saabs, I'm a glutton for punishment. Have you considered a '98 Intrepid?
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Jun 1, 2018 23:59
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Deteriorata posted:Have you considered a '98 Intrepid? I learned to drive on my family's '96 Intrepid. I'd rather not do that again. Edit: Also that's the redesign, ew.
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Jun 2, 2018 00:03
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nm posted:A 20 year old intrepid or a 13 year old mazda? Thanks for the actually helpful answer. Unfortunately the 3 is gone. The 6 says it has 4 cylinders but it has dual exhausts which doesn't seem logical unless it's some kinda "sport" model? I don't see any extra badges: https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-mazda-6/6604668643.html JayKay posted:
Talk of buying a car that isn't brand new or a few years old just gets mostly poo-poo'd on in this thread. You see if you buy a $5,000 car you will absolutely under every possible circumstance have $5,000 in repairs in the next year so you might as well buy a $30,000 car. I think we need to start a new thread in AI specifically for beaters or if anyone knows of a forum dedicated to buying older cars that would also be great, take less effort, and maybe someone could put it in the OP.
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Jun 2, 2018 00:16
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thylacine posted:Thanks for the actually helpful answer. Unfortunately the 3 is gone. The 6 says it has 4 cylinders but it has dual exhausts which doesn't seem logical unless it's some kinda "sport" model? I don't see any extra badges: https://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/d/2006-mazda-6/6604668643.html This is BFC, though. Beaters are great if you know how to wrench and have an eye as to what to buy/avoid, but people with those skills tend not to post here. A three-year-old car will generally have a year or two of warranty left and several more years of trouble-free life in them, so they're more what people are looking for and what get recommended here.
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Jun 2, 2018 00:23
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Deteriorata posted:This is BFC, though. Beaters are great if you know how to wrench and have an eye as to what to buy/avoid, but people with those skills tend not to post here. Oh, sorry I don't even know what BFC is so maybe I posted in the wrong place in the first place.  I just found this thread from the AI generic questions thread.
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Jun 2, 2018 00:30
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thylacine posted:Oh, sorry I don't even know what BFC is so maybe I posted in the wrong place in the first place. Well, I guess technically BFC is a subforum below this (it was originally Budget, Finance, and something). Come on over to AI and you'll find lots of love for beaters.
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Jun 2, 2018 00:35
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JayKay posted:Someone talk me out of getting a BMW E90/E46 or E39/E60 in the 100k-150k mileage range as a commuter car. I like to work on my own cars (experience with Jeeps, Subarus, Honda, and Saab). I'm well aware that these can either be super reliable or horrible money pits (Again, I've owned and maintained multiple Saabs, I'm a glutton for punishment. You probably want to avoid turbos. The N54 engines will probably be wanting turbo replacement around that time, unless the owner got incredibly lucky and changed their oil more often than BMW told them to. I'd go for newer / higher mileage over older / lower mileage (assuming naturally aspirated). Don't buy a car with a CEL unless you've scanned it yourself and confirmed it's not one of the painful to solve electrical gremlins. Edit: High pressure fuel pumps. The turbo engines had horrible failures, and it's an expensive job. Treat fueling issues as a do-never-buy. Twerk from Home fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Jun 2, 2018 |
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Jun 2, 2018 01:06
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I can't in good faith recommend an old BMW in the BFC thread, but come on over to the AI BMW thread if you're adventurous and want to do it anyway.
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Jun 2, 2018 01:15
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In 1999, a friend bought a lightly used (~20k miles) 1996 Intrepid ES, partly on my endorsement. It was cheap, roomy, handled well for its size, had good pickup, and was in the shop as much as it was on the road. I think he spent more on repairs in two or three years of ownership, than the purchase price of the car. And that's when it was three to five years old. On the bright side, your '98 may have had everything break and be replaced twice already, so it could be practically a new car.
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Jun 2, 2018 06:58
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JayKay posted:Someone talk me out of getting a BMW E90/E46 or E39/E60 in the 100k-150k mileage range as a commuter car. I like to work on my own cars (experience with Jeeps, Subarus, Honda, and Saab). I'm well aware that these can either be super reliable or horrible money pits (Again, I've owned and maintained multiple Saabs, I'm a glutton for punishment. This is all gonna depend on your appetite for cost. There are a few major known issues that have been covered for the E90. There are major known issues for the other models too. Do your research carefully, buy a car with most known issues sorted (or get a heavy discount if they're not) and expect to pay a premium for parts and consumables even if you can do work yourself. I am doing this transition myself (E39 M5, so even dumber) but I only drive like five thousand miles a year and there is never a point in time where I require the car - if for instance my VANOS solenoid breaks, I can sit the car for a week or two while I work on it. If you're driving a lot and you need the car available at a moments notice, I'd think very carefully. The phrase "commuter car" implies miles and criticality.
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Jun 2, 2018 13:08
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Number_6 posted:In 1999, a friend bought a lightly used (~20k miles) 1996 Intrepid ES, partly on my endorsement. It was cheap, roomy, handled well for its size, had good pickup, and was in the shop as much as it was on the road. I think he spent more on repairs in two or three years of ownership, than the purchase price of the car. And that's when it was three to five years old. Dodge of Thesus
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Jun 2, 2018 14:54
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Number_6 posted:In 1999, a friend bought a lightly used (~20k miles) 1996 Intrepid ES, partly on my endorsement. It was cheap, roomy, handled well for its size, had good pickup, and was in the shop as much as it was on the road. I think he spent more on repairs in two or three years of ownership, than the purchase price of the car. And that's when it was three to five years old. That's sort of my attitude toward it. For a '98 to be on the road yet after 20 years, it had to have bee one of the well-made ones in the first place and aggressively maintained. We're not looking at a fleet of cars in aggregate, we're looking at that particular car. If it's still in good shape after 20 years, it's probably good for a bunch more.
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Jun 2, 2018 15:04
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tranten posted:How does this tactic work with the Costco deal? It says on Costco’s site you go into the dealer to see their “Costco no haggle price” so I’m assuming the dealer will cite that and make you come in instead of giving it to you over email. Are the Costco prices the same across all dealers in a given area, or what? Costco will have an association with 1 dealership for each brand in a region. They will want you to come in, but they have a binder that lists the price in relation to invoice ($250 over invoice for example), and the price for various options. If you tell them exactly what you want, they can generate an exact price pretty quickly. But the feeling I got was there is no wiggle room. That is why it is no haggle. The Costco price was on the lower end of the Truecar.com price range. Not the absolute best deal, but a pretty good one. Last year, I was specifically looking for a Dodge Charger Scat Pack without a sunroof. The Scat Pack models were not that common on dealer lots, and every single one in the Chicago area had a sunroof, so I was looking to special order. I went to the Costco dealership, and got their price. I then went to a much closer dealership, and got the closer dealership to beat the price by a couple hundred dollars. I think having the quote on the other dealership’s forms helped. Also the fact that I wanted to order something they didn’t have on their lot. I also did all this on various weekday early afternoons, when the dealerships are all dead. I took my wife to a third dealership that actually had one of the cars in stock on a weekend, so she could sit in it and make sure she would tolerate it. We were very quickly shown the door by a manager once we started asking questions about ordering a car.
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Jun 2, 2018 18:31
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Dodge of Theseus That really needs to be an AI thread title at least once.
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Jun 2, 2018 18:56
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Well I did not buy the 98 Intrepid, I moved up a whole 10 years in automotive history from my 95 Taurus to an 05 Escape with plenty of recent maintenance, a/c, and brand new tires. See ya next time.
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Jun 2, 2018 20:18
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DNK posted:That really needs to be an AI thread title at least once. Buy a PT Cruiser, send it around the US to other posters, everyone replaces a part. If it's a body panel it must not color match any other body panel.
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Jun 2, 2018 20:42
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thylacine posted:Well I did not buy the 98 Intrepid, I moved up a whole 10 years in automotive history from my 95 Taurus to an 05 Escape with plenty of recent maintenance, a/c, and brand new tires. See ya next time. Much better choice well done
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Jun 3, 2018 03:14
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Pitch me your finest automocars Proposed Budget: $40k max New or Used: I'm open to either, but I live in Seattle and the motor vehicle excise tax uses a depreciation schedule that is incredibly punishing for used luxury cars with very high initial MSRPs: http://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/depreciation-schedule.html Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) Capacity for two adult passengers and one 85 lb dog who likes to sleep in the car (full sprawl mode). Due to my backseat dog hammock setup, loading him into a 2 door by moving seats would be a huge pain in the rear end but I'm willing to consider 2-door hatchbacks that a big dog can actually get into the back of if the seats lie reasonably flat since I can just throw a bed back there. I don't want anything that rides higher than a regular car as I think it looks silly and my dog has a harder time getting in and out. I like the overall size of my current car (old Toyota Corolla) pretty well. How will you be using the car?: (Do you tow things? Haul more than 5 people on a regular basis? Have a super long commute? How are you going to use this vehicle? Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?) Currently I have a walking commute and my 12 year Toyota Corolla sits in a parking garage and is driven ~5 times a month. I use this car for, basically, out of town errands and trips. Ideally I want to do more car vacations and road trips, but the Corolla is uncomfortable for trips longer than a couple hours, has a fair amount of road/wind noise at highway speeds, has literally no infotainment, and is gutless for passing. It's also boring and I'd like something that I can take around a corner without it rolling around. I'd like something reasonably fun to drive (defined as: less body roll than a Toyota Corolla, can pass on the freeway, sounds cool). Must haves: I want comfy seats and generally to be comfy on longer drives. I want modern safety gizmos like blind spot monitoring/rear cross traffic and I want them to work well. Android Auto. Sunroof. I don't drive stick. More interesting than a Toyota Corolla. No electrics or plug-ins, I don't have a spot to charge them. Nice to haves: Parallel parking assistance. Heads up display. BIG sunroof. Dual zone climate control. Cool color. 20+ mpg combined; I drive this infrequently enough that the gas mileage doesn't matter so much. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) I'm going to keep this car for a long time, so I'd like a good warranty. I don't want basic maintenance and repair costs to be ridiculous. I drive this in and around a city with some pretty poo poo roads, so anything that's really expensive to do minor cosmetic repairs on (or has expensive tires) is going to eat money that I don't want to spend. I get nails in my tires frequently and rock chips in my paint and windshield, as examples, and I do like to get those things fixed. For related reasons, ride quality matters. I also don't want finishes that are just going to look like poo poo in regular every day use, like white leather or glossy black plastic trim on high-touch surfaces. Ed: the only brands I absolutely will not consider are VW and Audi. The Oldest Man fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Jun 3, 2018 |
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Jun 3, 2018 06:09
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I read your edit, but with VW's new long rear end warranty, a Golf wagon is basically ideal for your wants/needs. They're also not nearly the reliability nightmare they used to be.
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Jun 3, 2018 06:52
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You are in Seattle so you are legally obligated to consider a Subaru Forester. Get an XT with Eyesight. When you sell it in 10 years it will still be worth 80% of what you paid. Edit: this one https://www.cartersubaruballard.com/new/Subaru/2018-Subaru-Forester-seattle-wa-2dc155420a0e0a6b40de81f5741308f9.htm?searchDepth=1:1 50th Anniversary edition in Heritage Blue Meydey fucked around with this message at 08:58 on Jun 3, 2018 |
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Jun 3, 2018 08:50
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07 Impreza, is that out of the head gasket danger zone?
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Jun 3, 2018 14:12
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Standard Subaru caveats about needing to be autistically obsessive about routine maintenance if you want to still have a vehicle past the 100,000 miles point apply
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Jun 3, 2018 14:40
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Deteriorata posted:Well, I guess technically BFC is a subforum below this (it was originally Budget, Finance, and something). Budget, Finance, and Careers. After the name change I forgot what the B stood for. I was guessing Business.
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Jun 3, 2018 14:52
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Grumpwagon posted:07 Impreza, is that out of the head gasket danger zone? Nope. However, if it has been done with an MLS gasket, it will run forever.
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Jun 3, 2018 17:05
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Meydey posted:You are in Seattle so you are legally obligated to consider a Subaru Forester. Get an XT with Eyesight. When you sell it in 10 years it will still be worth 80% of what you paid. This post is the darkness inside me telling me to give in and buy my mom's car. Edit: no Android Auto saves me from being eaten by a boxer-4 grue. The Oldest Man fucked around with this message at 19:41 on Jun 3, 2018 |
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Jun 3, 2018 19:27
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