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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

jerry seinfel posted:

I recently bought a house and i'm consistently amazed at all the dumb poo poo the past owners did

Too long for a thread title but never not correct.

Even the new house I bought suffers from it a little.

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tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

cakesmith handyman posted:

Too long for a thread title but never not correct.

Even the new house I bought suffers from it a little.

Home Sperging: The prior owner was a bigger rear end in a top hat than goatse.cx

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


PO more like Piece O' poo poo

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
I love that the previous owner new enough about electrical to be dangerous. If you want to turn a light on you first have to turn on that switch and then this one :downs:

I constantly forget about the 3rd light switch in the corner of the garage that needs to be flipped to turn the power on to everything out there.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!

Hubis posted:

[TELL] Me About Gutter Guards and/or Cleaning Pro Tips/Tricks.
The bolt on gutter guards are what I would recommend:


If your gutters are sections joined together and/or not using hidden mounts--you might want to think about replacing your gutters with seamless. Will help with the low spots. Plus the guys that come out with the seamless machine would install the guards at the same time.

The American version of the bristly thing in the gutters would be these, I think: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GUTTERSTUFF-5-in-x-48-in-K-Style-Foam-Gutter-Filter-GS-K5-SPAN/203318223

Still waiting to find someone I know that owns and uses a looj--the reviews seem mixed, but what a fun toy to have: https://smile.amazon.com/iRobot-330-Gutter-Cleaning-Robot/dp/B00A1590RS

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Four HUNDRED dollars?

VERTiG0
Jul 11, 2001

go move over bro
I have these six 10-gallon fabric grow pots on my deck that I'm using for growing veggies this summer (not weed). They're just right on my deck, and the deck is about 7 years old with a stain/paint thats flaking off like crazy after this awful winter. I'm going to use my pressure washer to hopefully get rid of most, if not all of that stain poo poo this weekend or next.

I have a drip irrigation system that I'm going to set up to water these six pots automatically so the deck wood directly underneath the pots will constantly be moist, but after I pressure wash the deck should I just put them back on the wood directly or should I put those plastic planter saucers underneath them to protect the wood from the moisture? I don't plan on painting or staining the deck again, at least this year.

Will this gently caress the deck up in those spots or can I safely not worry?

VERTiG0 fucked around with this message at 23:53 on Jun 1, 2018

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I would elevate them on something to allow airflow under the bags.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
I'm so loving pissed. A development company bought this gorgeous place In Chestnut Hill. They then proposed to tear it down and put up five townhouses. Luckily, a local conservancy group got involved and were able to prevent the teardown. The compromise isn't great -- they split the land in half (which is not enough for a house this size) and put in some somewhat contemporaneous-appearing but oversized townhouses.

And as I drove past the original house today, it looks like they gutted it and are selling it. I think they might actually have ripped out anything they could sell and walked. And since it's on the registry of historic homes, renovating it would now be super-expensive and difficult at best. I suspect they're going to let it rot until it's unsafe and needs to be ripped down so they can just put in two more townhomes.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...
How absurd it is that tearing down something like that would even be considered an option. I mean I bitch about teardowns in my neighborhood, but the houses they are ripping down to overbuild on are generally unspectacular ramblers and split levels from the 60s/70s in poor repair.

The Dave
Sep 9, 2003


I live in Springfield Delco and there’s this awesome big old house on a nice sized lot on Saxer Ave that obviously has fallen behind on up keep. Some scum bag is trying to sell the lot to a developer for a subdivision of 8 lots.

I’m sure it would be a lot of time and money to fix the house up but I’m going to be really bummed to see it go.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I'm in the mood to build a lil clubhouse for the kiddos. It's going to be small and ugly... !!! First I need to convince my husband, lol.

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost
In other house-selling news, I talked to my neighbor and he was able to get out of foreclosure. Good for him. He lost his job a year and a half back and his new job pays half as much. loving 28 years into his mortgage and he missed a few payments and the bank went to foreclose. He borrowed some money from family and owns it now.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


^^^ :peanut: I'm very very very happy for him <3

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The best result. gently caress banks.

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


Man, a big house in good condition like that, you’d figure the development company would just subdivide it into a couple of condos.

As much as I dislike the developers that scoop up the gorgeous old houses here, I’m glad they tend to just carve up the nice ones that are larger than most people want. Would the local zoning around there even support that though?

I’m glad that guy got to keep his house :)

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

BadSamaritan posted:

Man, a big house in good condition like that, you’d figure the development company would just subdivide it into a couple of condos.

As much as I dislike the developers that scoop up the gorgeous old houses here, I’m glad they tend to just carve up the nice ones that are larger than most people want. Would the local zoning around there even support that though?

I’m glad that guy got to keep his house :)

Local zoning might prohibit it, and the layout of a center-hall Colonial is such that it can be difficult to subdivide them without extensive changes. (Plus people who split up houses to rent them out tend to be more interested in money than in historic conservation.)

I'm super-happy about my neighbor keeping his house for a number of reasons. One, gently caress the banks who jump all over homeowners but get bailed out when they screw up themselves. Two, I want that lot someday, but I don't want to get it by someone losing his goddamned house because he hit a rough patch. Three, a developer would probably just outbid me anyway and stick something gross there.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Is there something I can buy on amazon that will give me the time and energy to do all the projects?

tetrapyloctomy
Feb 18, 2003

Okay -- you talk WAY too fast.
Nap Ghost

Jaded Burnout posted:

Is there something I can buy on amazon that will give me the time and energy to do all the projects?

If you have the money, yes.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Jaded Burnout posted:

Is there something I can buy on amazon that will give me the time and energy to do all the projects?

there is, but it's not on amazon :cocaine:

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


There's something I'm having trouble figuring out, and it's how you go from a door lining to a fitted door.

All the resources I've managed to find are either how to fit a door lining or how to hang a door in a doorway that's all but finished. I can't figure out the right wording to get from doorlining to door fitting, i.e. how do you go from a symmetrical opening to an asymmetrical one you can fit a door in.

In other news I'm getting the worried feeling that I'm going to have to redo most of the door linings because at least a couple of them aren't plumb, level, or straight.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Jaded Burnout posted:

There's something I'm having trouble figuring out, and it's how you go from a door lining to a fitted door.

All the resources I've managed to find are either how to fit a door lining or how to hang a door in a doorway that's all but finished. I can't figure out the right wording to get from doorlining to door fitting, i.e. how do you go from a symmetrical opening to an asymmetrical one you can fit a door in.

In other news I'm getting the worried feeling that I'm going to have to redo most of the door linings because at least a couple of them aren't plumb, level, or straight.

The prehung doors are so cheap, what’s the point anything else as a homeowner? Rip down to framing, measure the rough opening, buy the next width up and a bunch of shins.

eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:15 on Jun 3, 2018

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


What's a prehung door?

Also this was supposed to be completed by an actual builder, well, see my renovation thread for why that isn't happening now.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

Jaded Burnout posted:

What's a prehung door?

Also this was supposed to be completed by an actual builder, well, see my renovation thread for why that isn't happening now.

Door that comes mounted with hinges with it to its own jamb.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Jaded Burnout posted:

There's something I'm having trouble figuring out, and it's how you go from a door lining to a fitted door.

All the resources I've managed to find are either how to fit a door lining or how to hang a door in a doorway that's all but finished. I can't figure out the right wording to get from doorlining to door fitting, i.e. how do you go from a symmetrical opening to an asymmetrical one you can fit a door in.

In other news I'm getting the worried feeling that I'm going to have to redo most of the door linings because at least a couple of them aren't plumb, level, or straight.

I'm trying to figure out your wording, so here's what I did when I put a wall in.

I chose a door width, bought a door and lining kit to suit my wall thickness and door width, framed out to the outer width of the lining kit, installed the lining kit, hung the door. Still to do is install architrave/trim on both sides.

That's it really, I can imaging it could get complicated if you wanted a hardwood kit or something of a non-standard size but if you're painting just buy a lining kit.

E: if the openings don't already have trim and linings don't worry about square, fit the lining kit straight and level, cover gaps with trim, that's what it's for.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Jaded Burnout posted:

What's a prehung door?

Also this was supposed to be completed by an actual builder, well, see my renovation thread for why that isn't happening now.

https://www.menards.com/main/doors-...43685876&ipos=2

Shim, screw through shims, trim.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


These are what I have in my doorways right now in varying states of plumb



The bit I’m having trouble with is what you do to it next. My (incomplete) understanding is that you chip out space for the hinges and tack on architraves but how does the door stop part of the frame work?

These aren’t paired with any specific doors, they’re just generic liners.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

The liner I bought is stepped, you'd either have to install a bit of timber all round flush with one side or install a lining kit inside what you've got. What's the height from floor to liner as-is?

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

eddiewalker posted:

The prehung doors are so cheap, what’s the point anything else as a homeowner? Rip down to framing, measure the rough opening, buy the next width up and a bunch of shins.

I'm so close to doing this for a few doors in my house but I assume "buying the next width up" means I'd have to plane off the side of the door or something to cut it down to size and I just know I'd end up with a weird pentagon instead of a rectangle.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Fallom posted:

I'm so close to doing this for a few doors in my house but I assume "buying the next width up" means I'd have to plane off the side of the door or something to cut it down to size and I just know I'd end up with a weird pentagon instead of a rectangle.

No, I should’ve said “next size down.” You buy the biggest door that will fit in your rough opening so you have just enough wiggle room to shim it straight. It’s totally a process you can youtube your way through.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


cakesmith handyman posted:

The liner I bought is stepped, you'd either have to install a bit of timber all round flush with one side or install a lining kit inside what you've got. What's the height from floor to liner as-is?

Right, so, I let this stew while I ate dinner then remembered this



“Inc stops”, you say. Then I remembered this stack of thin PAR that’s been in the corner of a room for a long while.



By my count it’s enough side stops for 6 doors and enough header stops for 3 or 4. They’re not very straight. There are 10 doors.

Also in this pile was a spare 30mm liner which makes sense because one of the more awkward doorways (of course that one) doesn’t have a liner yet.

The current opening for the liners is approx 770-780 wide and 1960-1970 tall of memory serves.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

eddiewalker posted:

The prehung doors are so cheap, what’s the point anything else as a homeowner? Rip down to framing, measure the rough opening, buy the next width up and a bunch of shins.

Yeah, but they don't make the kind of doors I need in prehung form - if I could get solid wood Victorian five panel doors in weird sizes like 27" x 84" I'd be all over it. My options for new doors (and I need several) are hoping some doors of the right size and style turn up at the local construction salvage yard, or having them custom made.

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


I think... it would be very helpful to have a buddy around when installing door frames.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

cakesmith handyman posted:

The liner I bought is stepped, you'd either have to install a bit of timber all round flush with one side or install a lining kit inside what you've got. What's the height from floor to liner as-is?

Doors are always measured from top down, not floor up.

Those images are of the door framing of 2x4s. You will add your door lining to the sides of those. Pre-cut for hinges and doorknob before hanging. Use Shims to make it square on the 3 sides. Measure down and cut the hinges and doorknob on the door. Make sure there is about 1-2 inches of gap on the bottom of the door (hence the measure from top down as to not gently caress with hinge placement). Hang door, add trim framing flush with the lining and your done.

Prehung doors are the lining and door already cut to size and hinged/mortised. Just have to shim and nail the lining and then hang the door and frame it.

Queen Victorian posted:

Yeah, but they don't make the kind of doors I need in prehung form - if I could get solid wood Victorian five panel doors in weird sizes like 27" x 84" I'd be all over it. My options for new doors (and I need several) are hoping some doors of the right size and style turn up at the local construction salvage yard, or having them custom made.

You could get a 30x84 and trim 1.5 off the left and right. If it is not hardwood then just add new rails on the sides. The pannels will be closer to the edges but at least its not custom prices.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


JEEVES420 posted:

Doors are always measured from top down, not floor up.

Those images are of the door framing of 2x4s. You will add your door lining to the sides of those. Pre-cut for hinges and doorknob before hanging. Use Shims to make it square on the 3 sides. Measure down and cut the hinges and doorknob on the door. Make sure there is about 1-2 inches of gap on the bottom of the door (hence the measure from top down as to not gently caress with hinge placement). Hang door, add trim framing flush with the lining and your done.

While you may be right about the process of hanging the door, that is not the door framing. That is the door lining. There's a few hints like me having seen the construction of the walls they're in but a big one is the way it has "WHT LINING INC STOPS" printed on the side.

I appreciate you trying to help but if you confidently say the wrong thing it just causes more confusion.

whalesteak
May 6, 2013

Alternately, I think 28x80 is a relatively common size, and it's not terribly difficult to lengthen an interior door. You may still want to have it done professionally, but it wouldn't be as pricey as a fully custom door.

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

Pretty sure I'm going to end up taking one of my existing doors, strip all the awful paint, finish it how I want, and then ship it to Lancaster so an Amish carpenter can use it as a template to make the four of them I'm missing in the exact non-standard sizes I need (frames and jambs and poo poo are all still there - just need the doors themselves), also in wood and finish that matches all the remaining doors.

The vast majority of prehung options I found were unacceptable. I did manage to find the right five-panel design, but they were all made out of MDF and composite stuff.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Jaded Burnout posted:

While you may be right about the process of hanging the door, that is not the door framing. That is the door lining. There's a few hints like me having seen the construction of the walls they're in but a big one is the way it has "WHT LINING INC STOPS" printed on the side.

I appreciate you trying to help but if you confidently say the wrong thing it just causes more confusion.

Right so as you suspected that pile of timber is your stops, though why they come separate I don't know, you're set for standard 1981*762 doors by the look of it. If you don't like the look of the stops you can just buy more timber of the right size. You'll need some for the missing stops anyway.

Start by fixing the stops to the side you don't want the door swinging, brad nails or predrill and small screws will do. Then crack on with the rest of the hanging the door.

US crew, prehung doors aren't a thing over here in the UK.

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Jun 4, 2018

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


cakesmith handyman posted:

Right so as you suspected that pile of timber is your stops, though why they come separate I don't know, you're set for standard 1981*762 doors by the look of it. If you don't like the look of the stops you can just buy more timber of the right size. You'll need some for the missing stops anyway.

Start by fixing the stops to the side you don't want the door swinging, brad nails or predrill and small screws will do. Then crack on with the rest of the hanging the door.

Yah this was the missing piece of the puzzle. Thanks :)

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JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Jaded Burnout posted:

While you may be right about the process of hanging the door, that is not the door framing. That is the door lining. There's a few hints like me having seen the construction of the walls they're in but a big one is the way it has "WHT LINING INC STOPS" printed on the side.

I appreciate you trying to help but if you confidently say the wrong thing it just causes more confusion.

I worked in construction building houses and also a cabinetry shop prepping doors and frames for commercial buildings. Just saying...

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