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No experience with that level of saw. Mine was like $85 and has a 10”bar.
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Jun 4, 2018 22:12
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StormDrain posted:I picked up an electric chainsaw polesaw, which is an electric chainsaw and a pole to operate it remotely and it’s dandy for small trimming. My gas powered one was awesome for bigger jobs and a total beast when it ran properly but for convenience sake I have no regrets with the electric. Between that and the sawzall with the landscaping blade I’m set until I have a big branch to drop. I'm in this boat, I have a corded electric polesaw that detaches into an electric chainsaw. It works great, I've used it to remove a few small trees and a lot of branch trimming The cord isn't an issue so long as you're not a doofus
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Jun 4, 2018 22:51
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Leperflesh posted:e. A corded chainsaw also sounds a bit worrysome in that a tangled or knotted cord that encourages you to yank or suddenly/unexpectedly limits your movement could cause you to screw up a cut and get kickback. If I were buying an electric chainsaw I'd want a cordless one. Cords are fine, they just introduce an additional prep step before the cut (eg "do I have plenty of slack in my extension cord?")
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Jun 4, 2018 22:52
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I have a decent sized yard, and more often than not things I am cutting with a chainsaw ate further groom the house amd rewire a really long extension cord. Decent thick, long extension cordd are expensive, and then they have to be managed while you are moving around. For this reason I prefer a gas powered saw.
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Jun 4, 2018 23:31
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z0331 posted:No sump pump pit - just a capped drain pipe that *might* not be fully clogged and *might* be a general drain out to somewhere. Probably also original to the house. Just get one of these too https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-115-Volt-Condensate-Removal-Pump-CSP010/204480032 and drain it to whereever (outside?)
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Jun 5, 2018 13:45
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I would love to get that battery powered Milwaukee chainsaw, but its like $400.
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Jun 5, 2018 13:51
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Ghostnuke posted:Does anyone know if electric chainsaws are worth a poo poo? I'd like to buy a chainsaw in general, but I would like to avoid having another carburetor that's gummed up 90% of the time. StormDrain posted:I picked up an electric chainsaw polesaw, which is an electric chainsaw and a pole to operate it remotely and it’s dandy for small trimming. My gas powered one was awesome for bigger jobs and a total beast when it ran properly but for convenience sake I have no regrets with the electric. Between that and the sawzall with the landscaping blade I’m set until I have a big branch to drop. I use my 36cc Kombi with a 10" blade to cut down 6-8" trees. It's too much, but it worked very excellently. Ghostnuke posted:I'm thinking about this one. Looks like it should be beefy enough to cut down an actual tree. devicenull posted:Just get one of these too https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-115-Volt-Condensate-Removal-Pump-CSP010/204480032 and drain it to whereever (outside?) Reminder to all: look for signs of water when buying a house!
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Jun 5, 2018 14:07
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Can you get a chainsaw with one of those crazy conductivity sensors that instantly stops table saws? Because that would be a cool thing. I'm extremely careful with tools but I still don't think I would run a chainsaw without something like that.
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Jun 5, 2018 14:48
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devicenull posted:Just get one of these too https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-115-Volt-Condensate-Removal-Pump-CSP010/204480032 and drain it to whereever (outside?) Hm, might be an option. We actually bought a 70-pint dehumidifier last night. It was full to the brim within 12 hours. Our inspector wasn't very good, but when we looked at the house there was no (to me) obvious signs of water damage. Looking again at the stone foundation walls, there are I guess indications of water but you have to look pretty closely. I'm sure this has happened before, but I think it's also just been really, really wet this spring. Actually the likely offending side of the house where the water is leaking in is where our deck is, so I'm thinking rain/snow melt just is collecting under the deck boards and then not drying up. I need to redo this deck eventually anyway (boards are steady but very old and some are in pretty rough shape and the railing is hilariously wobbly in parts) and was thinking of looking into installing a membrane under the planks to try to collect/drain away water. Has anyone done anything like that?
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Jun 5, 2018 15:03
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z0331 posted:Hm, might be an option. We actually bought a 70-pint dehumidifier last night. It was full to the brim within 12 hours. I think you need French drains outside. I'm so glad code required it for my house, the hill is very much clay and water runs down from uphill like a motherfucker, if not for the drains I'd have an issue.
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Jun 5, 2018 15:11
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Our AC stopped working but thankfully it was a $5 fuse fix. Life is good.  (for now...........)
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Jun 5, 2018 15:42
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Ashcans posted:Can you get a chainsaw with one of those crazy conductivity sensors that instantly stops table saws? Because that would be a cool thing. I'm extremely careful with tools but I still don't think I would run a chainsaw without something like that. The guy who invented the SawStop pitched his idea to a bunch of table saw makers and none of them was willing to pay him what he wanted for it. So he started his own company and refuses to license the tech so the only way to get a SawStop is to buy a SawStop, and they're super mega expensive. Arguably worth it to save your fingers, but only if you can actually pay like three grand for a table saw. There is no SawStop chainsaw. I don't think it would work: SawStop works by detecting the change in conductivity presented by your skin, but table saws are only used indoors on reasonably dry wood. Also the stopping tech relies on slamming the spinning saw blade into a one-time-use destructive casing. The chainsaw would need to be able to tell the difference between the wet bark of a tree and your finger, and it would need a novel mechanism to instantly stop the mechanism. Not saying it's definitely impossible, but... yeah, people have had this idea already and as far as I can tell, nobody has patented one yet.
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Jun 5, 2018 16:58
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SiGmA_X posted:Sigh kids these days. Well there’s things that I do and there’s things that I recommend others do... I’m waiting for that next large branch to cut to justify a new two stroke chainsaw.
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Jun 5, 2018 18:32
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StormDrain posted:Well there’s things that I do and there’s things that I recommend others do...
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Jun 5, 2018 20:03
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Any recommendations on lawn mowers? First time having a lawn so looking for longevity and ease of use. Just grab whatever Honda and be done with it? I'm guessing around 5,000 sq ft of grass.
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Jun 6, 2018 00:45
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Dustoph posted:Any recommendations on lawn mowers? First time having a lawn so looking for longevity and ease of use. Just grab whatever Honda and be done with it? I'm guessing around 5,000 sq ft of grass.
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Jun 6, 2018 01:20
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Can I sit on it while drinking a beer? Or does it at least have a strap for the baby on top?
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Jun 6, 2018 01:47
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Dustoph posted:Can I sit on it while drinking a beer? Or does it at least have a strap for the baby on top?
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Jun 6, 2018 01:53
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Ghostnuke posted:Does anyone know if electric chainsaws are worth a poo poo? I'd like to buy a chainsaw in general, but I would like to avoid having another carburetor that's gummed up 90% of the time.
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Jun 6, 2018 02:14
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gvibes posted:Paging Motronic - weren't you talking about some expensive but very very stable gasoline variant? What was that again? Was it Truefuel? In my mind, all small carbs are the same as far as storage procedures go. Others may disagree, I may just not know what I am talking about (very likely, I loving hate carbs, haven't rebuilt one since automotive school a decade ago!), but my personal history with these tools has shown me that I am doing it okay, and I'm not going to change because effort. Also, this: https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2288931/Stihl_Motomix_vs_Trufuel_50:1 This post was worth exactly what you paid for it.  E: You might, *might*, want to run TruFuel/MotoMix before storing your saw or other tools at the end of the season, but still... Drain and run em dry, if that. Post is still worth what you paid for it. SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jun 6, 2018 |
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Jun 6, 2018 02:28
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Dustoph posted:Any recommendations on lawn mowers? First time having a lawn so looking for longevity and ease of use. Just grab whatever Honda and be done with it? I'm guessing around 5,000 sq ft of grass. Depends on you price range. Honda is the gold standard, Toro is decent for the cheaper stuff. I think Ego is good if you want electric. If you're looking at riding then I have no idea. https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-lawnmower/
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Jun 6, 2018 02:33
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Toro Timemaster 30". If you're not willing to spend $1k on a lawnmower why even bother buying a house, bro?
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Jun 6, 2018 02:50
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Can confirm. Just bought a house and wife came home with a Gravely ZTM one day.
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Jun 6, 2018 02:56
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I have a toro recycler and have done zero maintenance on it and have treated it like poo poo for 7 years and it still fires up with no issues.
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Jun 6, 2018 03:26
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We bought a Fiskars push reel mower because we have a small flat lot with not very much lawn, and the gas-powered mowers in the $200 price range were pieces of poo poo that generally tended to fail within a year or so. I really like having a mower that is not noisy and smelly, but my fiancé whines about how it doesn't do well with some weeds and those hard grass seed stem things (we let the lawn get out of control before we got the mower and are still dealing with the repercussions - haven't moved in yet so we're not over there all the time) so we're going to get an electric weed whacker for overgrown lawn mitigation and edging and stuff, which I think is a nice compromise. I don't know much about lawn mowers, but I think the push reel mower is nice for small flat lawns. Also we can mow whenever the gently caress we want because it's quiet. There was a gas mower that came with the house, but we couldn't get it started due to the choke line (?) and some other cables/tubes having had disintegrated while the thing was sitting outside in the harsh PA winter. Queen Victorian fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Jun 6, 2018 |
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Jun 6, 2018 04:26
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We got a reel mower too. Our yard is not flat at all which makes it less effective but I wanted something easy to carry down stairs to store in the basement (no outside storage) and cheap. Our neighbor got that Ryobi cordless mower and it seems to work well but neither of us have large yards.
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Jun 6, 2018 12:50
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Oh yeah, that's the other thing - we don't have a garage or shed, so the mower lives in the basement (with exterior walkout door). Easier to lug up and down and also probably a good idea to avoid storing gasoline engines right in the house.
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Jun 6, 2018 13:16
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gvibes posted:Paging Motronic - weren't you talking about some expensive but very very stable gasoline variant? What was that again? Was it Truefuel? That's the stuff. I run gas with stabil if I'm gonna burn a lot, but all of my small tools end up with TruFuel at least before storage and I've not had to rebuild or clean a carb in years now. poo poo starts easily when it's cold out too. SiGmA_X posted:I'm going to stick with mixed E0. You do realize this is 100% not an option for a huge number of people...... It would take me 45 minutes to get to the closest place that has it - and "it" is 94 octane VP racing fuel that costs about the same per gallon as TruFuel.
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Jun 6, 2018 13:39
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I have a 20% grade in some places. https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/walk-behind-mowers/20353-awd-recycler-mower has softer rubber wheels and all wheel drive that made it a lot grippier on the hills. Can't go back to a normal mower.
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Jun 6, 2018 13:47
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Motronic posted:You do realize this is 100% not an option for a huge number of people...... What do you get 1/5gal containers of TruFuel for?
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Jun 6, 2018 13:56
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Motronic posted:That's the stuff. You say "before storage". Do you fill the tank with TruFuel when storing equipment for the off-season? Or do you just run that as the last fill up and run the equipment dry? I've seen two schools of thought here. One, which seems the "traditional" route, is to run the tank dry before storage. The other method involves filling the tank completely with stablized fuel, runnin it briefly to move the saltablizers through the system, and storing it that way. I believe the rationale for the latter method is that minimizing the headspace in the fuel tank will reduce condensation, and extend the life of the fuel system as (obviously) the materialsbare designed to be constantly immersed in gas. I've always just ran things dry and not had a problem, but if there's a better way I'm all for trying it out.
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Jun 6, 2018 13:56
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LogisticEarth posted:You say "before storage". Do you fill the tank with TruFuel when storing equipment for the off-season? Or do you just run that as the last fill up and run the equipment dry? Those "2 schools" depend on the thing. Some stuff you really can't run all the way dry - we're talking bigger things with a float bowl like pressure washers, etc. Those get enough to run through and get stored wet. I'm not terribly concerned about filling the tank all the way - this is non-ethanol fuel and is not going to pick up condensation from the air in the tank. Things without float bowls end up getting run dry or not....depends on if it's something I occasionally use "off season" or not. I haven't noticed any difference either way.
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Jun 6, 2018 14:05
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SiGmA_X posted:To be honest, I didn't realize that. I drive about 15min and pay ~$4/gal, I thought that was roughly the norm based on what I know from friends/family around the nation. I would buy TruFuel instead if I had that sort of price happening. It probably depends a lot more than anything else on what EPA region you are in. The air pollution policy people seem to be in charge of that. What do you mean "for"? Like what do I use them for or what am I paying for them? Worst case I'm paying $20 a gallon when it's not on sale and I need to pick it up at LowesDepot, but you can usually find it for more like $12/gal in 5 gal pails at non-big-box local supply houses.
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Jun 6, 2018 14:15
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Queen Victorian posted:We bought a Fiskars push reel mower because we have a small flat lot with not very much lawn, and the gas-powered mowers in the $200 price range were pieces of poo poo that generally tended to fail within a year or so. I really like having a mower that is not noisy and smelly, but my fiancé whines about how it doesn't do well with some weeds and those hard grass seed stem things (we let the lawn get out of control before we got the mower and are still dealing with the repercussions - haven't moved in yet so we're not over there all the time) so we're going to get an electric weed whacker for overgrown lawn mitigation and edging and stuff, which I think is a nice compromise. The Fiskars one is nice. I have one, and used to use it primarily, but I found it doesn't cope well if you mow your grass especially high. If I keep my grass at 4" then I need to mow at 6" (one third rule) which would bog the reel mower down. I'd also have to bag it (there is a bagging attachment btw!) Because it doesn't do recirculating mulching, and 2" long clippings aren't something you want to leave on the lawn. All that said I still really like it and would agree advocating for it if you aren't mowing super high like I am and have a small area to mow. It's probably not a good fit for a 5000sqft lawn, though. Also, the sharpening kit Fiskars sells is super worth it, if you've never sharpened the blades before. It takes maybe 30 minutes, but it is like night and day. The Dave posted:I have a toro recycler and have done zero maintenance on it and have treated it like poo poo for 7 years and it still fires up with no issues. Sharpen your blade you butcher 
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Jun 6, 2018 15:13
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Hubis posted:Sharpen your blade you butcher Oh that's something I lied about, I replaced the blade 2 years ago, that wasn't because of any faults though, just maintenance.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:25
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I have the Scotts 20” reel mower. It’s fine for what it is, but I wouldn’t recommend it for anything over 3000 sq ft, maybe less. Also I wish it cut a bit shorter. I’ve had multiple neighbors ask if I wanted to borrow their “real” mowers so I don’t have to push mine around. Once they try it they realize how easy it is. Also my grass looks better than theirs. 
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Jun 6, 2018 15:56
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Queen Victorian posted:We bought a Fiskars push reel mower because we have a small flat lot with not very much lawn, and the gas-powered mowers in the $200 price range were pieces of poo poo that generally tended to fail within a year or so. I really like having a mower that is not noisy and smelly, but my fiancé whines about how it doesn't do well with some weeds and those hard grass seed stem things (we let the lawn get out of control before we got the mower and are still dealing with the repercussions - haven't moved in yet so we're not over there all the time) so we're going to get an electric weed whacker for overgrown lawn mitigation and edging and stuff, which I think is a nice compromise. This is exactly me except in IL. Got a gas mower with the house, but it took me 10 tries to start every time. Went and got a Fiskar push reel and it's great. All push reels have issues with tough weeds and grass, but I need a weed wacker for the edges anyway and it's like an extra minute to clip the things the mower didn't get. Way lighter, quieter and cheaper than a gas mower.
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Jun 6, 2018 22:25
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The trick to reel mowers is to mow waaaaaay more often, before it gets long enough to bog the blade or require bagging. In Florida, that means every day. 
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Jun 7, 2018 15:53
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Work your rear end off constantly in order to allow your hipster mower to work effectively, wow what a great trick
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Jun 7, 2018 19:59
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QuarkJets posted:Work your rear end off constantly in order to allow your hipster mower to work effectively, wow what a great trick No kidding. I’m going to burn gas to mow once a week as lord Nikolaus Otto intended.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:32
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