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Gloss - Airbrush Pledge Floor Care with Future Matte - Testors Dullcote
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Jun 5, 2018 22:52
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dexefiend posted:Gloss - Airbrush Pledge Floor Care with Future Same but Future I use for semigloss, and Tamiya x-22 for gloss.
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Jun 6, 2018 02:02
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Ugleb posted:Your Mortarion scheme is better than the studio. Those bright wings are great! Thank you! Those are the GW Creeping Vines. They're really good - they're a soft, bendable plastic that you can wrap around things to a degree. It takes washes amazingly well, the paint is just Rakarth Flesh + Reikland Fleshshade and then a variety of yellows and oranges for the leaves.
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Jun 6, 2018 02:22
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dexefiend posted:Gloss - Airbrush Pledge Floor Care with Future Can you get Testors Dullcote in a non-rattlecan form?
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Jun 6, 2018 02:36
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Yes. It's a lacquer bottle from Testors.
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Jun 6, 2018 02:44
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Are spray paints that are paint and primer ok to use for models?
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Jun 6, 2018 14:39
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BigRed0427 posted:Are spray paints that are paint and primer ok to use for models? You can, but I'd be afraid that it might go on a bit thick. Try it with a test model first. What are you thinking of? If it's the Army Painter paint, you're good (though I always have bad luck with those sprays.) If you're looking at Krylon or something, why not just use a flat black/white/gray? The problem with the colored paints is that you aren't going to get a match for your bottle paint. Touchups are going to look bad.
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Jun 6, 2018 14:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:You can, but I'd be afraid that it might go on a bit thick. Try it with a test model first. What are you thinking of? If it's the Army Painter paint, you're good (though I always have bad luck with those sprays.) If you're looking at Krylon or something, why not just use a flat black/white/gray? The problem with the colored paints is that you aren't going to get a match for your bottle paint. Touchups are going to look bad. i'm looking at the stuff from home depot and a craft store near me and that seems to be all they got. I dont have the time today to drive at least a half hour to go buy the Cidital Paint one so I was hoping for another brand of something.
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Jun 6, 2018 14:57
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berzerkmonkey posted:Touchups are going to look bad. To elaborate, most non-hobby spray paints are lacquer, and paint+primers will tend to have a complete finish instead of a paint-receptive surface like primers. Any manual touch-ups are going to look really off in terms of sheen, blending into the base coat will be difficult, and you're going to have trouble getting paint to stick to the finished surface unless you put it on thick (at which point it ends up looking terrible.) Since your acrylic paint wont have the kind of surface bond that acrylic-on-primer gets your miniature may be prone to paint flaking off, as well. If you want lacquer-vibrant colors for miniatures you're best off just looking into white primer + inks (unless what you're looking for is a metallic). Wal-marts tend to have a small selection of cans in a locked cabinet near Automotive, if that's near you. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 15:02 on Jun 6, 2018 |
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Jun 6, 2018 14:59
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BigRed0427 posted:i'm looking at the stuff from home depot and a craft store near me and that seems to be all they got. I dont have the time today to drive at least a half hour to go buy the Cidital Paint one so I was hoping for another brand of something. I use Rustoleum Painter's Touch or Krylon for priming and they've always worked fine for me.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:12
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BigRed0427 posted:i'm looking at the stuff from home depot and a craft store near me and that seems to be all they got. I dont have the time today to drive at least a half hour to go buy the Cidital Paint one so I was hoping for another brand of something. Is there a Lowes, or WalMart near you? They will have Krylon flat/matte (or something similar) for like $2.50 a can. HD doesn't sell Krylon, iirc, but whatever their $2-$3 per can flat/matte should be ok.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:12
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Personally I like Valspar
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Jun 6, 2018 15:13
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Ok i'll take another look tommrow. In the mean time I got a bottle of Simple Green Pro HD to strip what I already did. (Its a bottle of purple stuff.) Did 1 cup of the stuff and four cups water as per the bottle's instructions. Now the wraith lord and war walker are just soaking.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:17
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I've recently started painting 40k miniatures, and think I got a little confused as to what exactly an undercoat actually is. I thought that the spray can of Macragge Blue, that I bought from GW, was the same thing as doing an undercoat AND a basecoat simultaneously. This is not the case? It seems to work just fine as a starting point for dry brushing and painting in details. I've already finished one of my intercessor squads, and want to check here before I begin on the rest of my army, in case I'm doing it wrong. Should I be spraying them all black with that Chaos Black undercoat first, letting it dry, then spraying on the Macragge blue base paint afterwards? Will it affect the finished colour noticeably?
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Jun 6, 2018 15:42
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An undercoat is just a layer of paint you use to affect the final layer; if you paint over black your final layer will be darker, over white it will be whiter. If you prefer to heavily thin your paints they might get a blue tinge if you apply directly over the blue base; in that event you'd use a black/grey to neutralize it. It's by no means a mandatory apply-to-all-models thing.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:47
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I airbrush gesso and it works well for me for primer chat.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:47
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Gunder posted:I've recently started painting 40k miniatures, and think I got a little confused as to what exactly an undercoat actually is. I thought that the spray can of Macragge Blue, that I bought from GW, was the same thing as doing an undercoat AND a basecoat simultaneously. This is not the case? It seems to work just fine as a starting point for dry brushing and painting in details. I've already finished one of my intercessor squads, and want to check here before I begin on the rest of my army, in case I'm doing it wrong. Should I be spraying them all black with that Chaos Black undercoat first, letting it dry, then spraying on the Macragge blue base paint afterwards? Will it affect the finished colour noticeably? All the citadel rattlecan spray paints are primer.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:53
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Two Beans posted:All the citadel rattlecan spray paints are primer. I guess I'll just stick to the Macragge Blue spray for my ultramarines undercoating then. I'm planning on covering them all in that Munitorum Varnish spray at the end anyway, so hopefully, the paint will be protected from chipping and rubbing off with that stuff on it. (I get decent discounts on GW stuff, so it almost always works out cheaper than whatever else is on offer).
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Jun 6, 2018 15:57
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Two Beans posted:All the citadel rattlecan spray paints are primer. Are they? I thought I recently saw/heard something saying that this was not the case.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:57
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The first post in this thread actually states: quote:It should be noted that Citadel/Games Workshop primer is widely considered NOT a primer, it’s merely spray paint. But many people still use it and are happy with it.
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Jun 6, 2018 16:08
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BigRed0427 posted:i'm looking at the stuff from home depot and a craft store near me and that seems to be all they got. I dont have the time today to drive at least a half hour to go buy the Cidital Paint one so I was hoping for another brand of something. Citadel (and any hobby primers) are just off batches of Rustoleum or Krylon anyway.
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Jun 6, 2018 16:48
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I nabbed a Badger 105 new and on the cheap, can anyone recommend a good and affordable compressor and any other items I might need? Apart from cleaning gear, I already got recommendations on that from a friend. For now I'm just gonna borrow my uncle's loud af compressor, but I'd prefer something I can have in my back basement and don't have to use in the garage
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Jun 6, 2018 18:37
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Cat Face Joe posted:Citadel (and any hobby primers) are just off batches of Rustoleum or Krylon anyway. That info is a little dated and/or wrong. Citadel sprays are meant to be used on bare plastic, and anyone that has ever tried to strip them afterwards can absolutely confirm that it does contain a bonding agent. EDIT: Quoted the wrong drat post on mobile. I meant to reply to the OP indicating that Citadel sprays aren’t primer and potentially need to be applied to primer.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:57
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Shadin posted:That info is a little dated and/or wrong. Citadel sprays are meant to be used on bare plastic, and anyone that has ever tried to strip them afterwards can absolutely confirm that it does contain a bonding agent.
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Jun 6, 2018 19:19
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TheBigAristotle posted:I nabbed a Badger 105 new and on the cheap, can anyone recommend a good and affordable compressor and any other items I might need? Apart from cleaning gear, I already got recommendations on that from a friend. I don't have a specific recommendation beyond make sure you get one that has a tank on it.
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Jun 6, 2018 19:43
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Xpost from 40k thread:
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Jun 6, 2018 19:53
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Pierzak posted:Does this still apply to the last generation of primers, e.g. Corax White? I've used Skull White with good effect, but heard bad things about the new one. It definitely applies to the new ones. I didn’t start painting until 2016 so all I’ve used is Chaos Black, Leadbelcher, and Caliban Green from the new lineup.
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Jun 6, 2018 20:04
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TheBigAristotle posted:I nabbed a Badger 105 new and on the cheap, can anyone recommend a good and affordable compressor and any other items I might need? Apart from cleaning gear, I already got recommendations on that from a friend. One of the Master compressors with a tank would be good. I would grab one of the airbrush combos so you have a spare on hand in case your 105 has issues. You will need an Badger adapter kit and some teflon thread tape, because the 105 leaks air like a son of a bitch (at least mine does.) Major Spag posted:Xpost from 40k thread: That's a solid red. I like them.
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Jun 6, 2018 20:04
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berzerkmonkey posted:One of the Master compressors with a tank would be good. I would grab one of the airbrush combos so you have a spare on hand in case your 105 has issues. You will need an Badger adapter kit and some teflon thread tape, because the 105 leaks air like a son of a bitch (at least mine does.) Thanks, I'll take a look Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I don't have a specific recommendation beyond make sure you get one that has a tank on it. I've been seeing this recommendation a lot.
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Jun 6, 2018 20:21
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TheBigAristotle posted:I nabbed a Badger 105 new and on the cheap, can anyone recommend a good and affordable compressor and any other items I might need? Apart from cleaning gear, I already got recommendations on that from a friend. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Jun 6, 2018 20:22
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The Master airbrush pack is still a really good introduction to airbrushing; I've only had two issues, one of which is my fault: 1. The cap on the air hose separated from the braided hose; I attribute this to myself because I've accidentally spilled many a solvent on said hose. In case that wasn't the reason; this happened after about a year of use. 2. After 2-3 years of use the tank has started leaking; I still need to disassemble the whole thing and see if it's just a loose nut or damaged hose. The compressor is great and is still kicking to this day, as is the airbrush. It's not great for fine detail, but it has excellent coverage and the needle can survive everything short of intentionally trying to break it. Excellent priming/base coat/varnish brush, useful alongside a fine brush both so you can use two colors at once for easy weird blending before cleaning out the colors, and to offload the gruntwork from your pricier brush. E: Tanks are recommended a lot because it means your compressor can work up a reserve of compressed air then wait for you to use it up; without the tank long sessions will overheat and eventuallt wear oyt your compressor's motor, as it will be running the entire time.
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Jun 6, 2018 20:24
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I want to do the following, could anyone confirm it's not a terrible idea? My goal is to paint Ironjawz in yellow using the stuff I already own. * Vallejo White Primer * Averland Sunset all the miniatures using an airbrush. Thin it down 50/50 with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner, apply maybe two coats? * Do the shading on the armor * Airbrush with Vallejo Golden Yellow (also thinned down 50/50). * Then do the skin, pants, bindings, etc. What I'm really concerned about is having a nice yellow armor that's not too bright and doesn't look like poo poo.
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Jun 6, 2018 20:28
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That should work just fine, though I question why sandwich the shading between two coats. If you shade the white primer with grey-darkgrey-black they will survive a couple extra coats just fine. speaking of airbrushing, I heavily recommend Vallejo Liquid Mask to everyone; you can brush it on (immediately clean the brush with warm water and soap after) areas to protect them if you're not confident about your airbrush precision. Very useful for Eldar patterns that aren't straight tapeable lines. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jun 6, 2018 |
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Jun 6, 2018 20:34
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goodness posted:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Just make sure you have an adaptor for the Badger. They use their own size. I think the newer Badgers might come with one these days, I'm not certain. My Sotar 20/20 did.
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Jun 6, 2018 22:07
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Neurolimal posted:That should work just fine, though I question why sandwich the shading between two coats. If you shade the white primer with grey-darkgrey-black they will survive a couple extra coats just fine. I was thinking to do the shading using either a Seraphim Sepia or Cassandora Yellow wash, as I've seen recommended on a few tutorials. They usually do it after the layer coat. Would it look better if I did a shade on the primer like you suggested?
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Jun 6, 2018 22:48
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Philthy posted:Just make sure you have an adaptor for the Badger. They use their own size. I think the newer Badgers might come with one these days, I'm not certain. My Sotar 20/20 did. My patriot didn't come with one, I got a quick disconnect pair which works well instead of a hose adapter.
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Jun 6, 2018 22:49
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Booyah- posted:My patriot didn't come with one, I got a quick disconnect pair which works well instead of a hose adapter. Same. Adapters are cheap and easy to find, you'll feel real dumb if you forget one.
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Jun 6, 2018 22:56
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Serenade posted:Same. Adapters are cheap and easy to find, you'll feel real dumb if you forget one. Cheap yes, easy to find no. At least not in person.
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Jun 6, 2018 23:04
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Dang, I'm glad that someone already came in to ask the questions about compressors. With this ebay sale it would almost be irresponsible not to buy an airbrush.
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Jun 6, 2018 23:07
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Furism posted:I was thinking to do the shading using either a Seraphim Sepia or Cassandora Yellow wash, as I've seen recommended on a few tutorials. They usually do it after the layer coat. Would it look better if I did a shade on the primer like you suggested? Like most topics in painting it's up to personal preference. There's nothing wrong with your plan, just thought I'd point that out. Zenithal Priming (i.e priming white, then airbrushing black/grey paint or primer around panel lines and edges) offers some pretty lovely blended shading for large surfaces, while washes are great for harshly darkening recesses, they're not incompatible but it depends on what kind of style you want to go with.
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Jun 7, 2018 00:17
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