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ionn posted:BTW, throwout bearing vs clutch release bearing. What's the dialectal split there? I just keep hearing both, but around the civilized parts where I grew up it's called urtrampningslager. TOB is more common but I've heard it called both in 
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May 23, 2018 11:19
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Ts...i mean. I guess i could put in a new brake piston. If you want to be picky...
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May 28, 2018 07:50
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This weekend I did my first ever timing belt job on an MX-5 (on my NA, which is getting a proper service before selling it and the thing was due). Have done it before on the same kind of engine in a 323 where the only real problem was physical access, which is obviously a non-issue here, especially since I pulled the radiator. Nice change to have room to work for once, have only done timing belts on cramped FWD cars before. The whole thing did leave me with a few questions though: -How does one best remove the woodruff key and timing gear from the crankshaft? The guides I saw just had some variation of "remove the key and the timing belt drive gear", but both were stuck enough that I felt I would do damage to stuff before they would come out. Would more leverage prying between block and gear have done it? There was no sign of oil leakage by the main seal and I didn't want to break poo poo that already wasn't (and I didn't have a new woodruff key) so I just left that thing alone. -There's a rubber seal thing on the metal plate that sits behind the cam gears that seals up against the water pump. What does that thing really seal from what? If there is anything leaking there (coolant or oil), I would think it's something that shouldn't really be there to begin with, and if it does it could easily get allover the place anyway. -There is a lip on the water neck / thermostat housing that seemingly prevented me from removing the water pump unless I removed that thing first. Is there some point to that design? Or was I just not wrangling the pump in the right way to get it out anyway?
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May 28, 2018 13:37
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The rubber seal should come on a Gates pump. The woodruff key should pop off with a tiny tap with a punch, try some penetrating oil. Its really the same as the DOHC 323 B6s except the tensioner is different? I think you can just thread some bolts onto the timing gear and use a prybar or puller. Again, differential heating may be key.
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May 28, 2018 16:09
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The rubber seal strip came with the water pump, but it was mounted on the metal plate. Everything about the timing belt kit seemed identical to the 323, including the tensione. But I didn't change the crank seal on that one either (didn't actually change any bits, just fixed a leaky water pump gasket). I gave the key some taps from various directions, but still was unable to pull it out. And I assumed the key locked the timing gear in place as that seemed as solidly affixed as anything. It's all buttoned up and done with now and I do not plan on going back in there again.
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May 28, 2018 16:23
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Throwing my 1999 on SA Mart if anyone is interested. Would be nice to sell to a goon instead of Craigslist. Any opinions on selling this on Bring a Trailer? All the NBs they list have far fewer miles, almost seems like a gamble or its not something they'd approve to auction. giundy fucked around with this message at 03:44 on May 29, 2018 |
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May 28, 2018 22:53
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giundy posted:Throwing my 1999 on SA Mart if anyone is interested. Would be nice to sell to a goon instead of Craigslist. You've got pm.
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May 29, 2018 08:29
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EVERYWHERE 
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Remember to grease the caliper slide pins from time to time, folks. I noticed some stickiness on the rear brakes after winter storage, thankfully I checked it out quickly and it was a 30 minute fix. Haven't always been so diligent, that cost me a few hundred for new rotors and pads on my daily driver.
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May 29, 2018 23:44
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giundy's car took me down a dark road. I'm looking for a Miata, and his is really nice, but as soon as I got it, I'd have to throw a bunch of money into turbocharging it. So I'm looking for a car already turbo'd. As you explore Miata-based stuff on the internet, if you see a well-sorted turbo car (preferably with an FMII kit, that's what I'm most familiar with) in the sub-$8k range, please let me know. I'm in no rush, but my wife just told me that the Avalon I'm using as a beater will be perfect for our son, so I "need" to get a new car.  Edit: I prefer a later NA, NB is an option. 1.6 NAs are no-go. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 00:15 on May 30, 2018 |
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May 30, 2018 00:05
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That's part of the reason for parting with it, the turbo bug is expensive, better to let someone else deal with that depreciation if you can trouble shoot it.
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May 30, 2018 03:44
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giundy posted:That's part of the reason for parting with it, the turbo bug is expensive, better to let someone else deal with that depreciation if you can trouble shoot it. It's more than a turbo bug, it's a transformative change for the car. As some smart guy said: meatpimp posted:"Need" is a relative term. I find normally aspirated Miatas to be boring. Even regular supercharged ones are. It's not until the 200+ hp range in a Miata does the car become fun for me (and pushing 300hp is a blast). Is there a need for it? Nope. But for me it takes something that feels like a roofless appliance and changes it into a proper sports car.
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May 30, 2018 11:48
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Not that I disagree, but dumping its own cost in turbo parts into an old car just doesn't seem very appealing to me. Plus I enjoy being able to just drive it at any point (0 days downtime in over 5 years) and not constantly loving around with the bolt-on nonsense. One thing I still need to take care of are the rear brakes. I got a used pair of large (276mm?) calipers and before putting them on, wanted to check that everything's fine. The pistons were fully retracted, but the adjustment screw spins freely for a long time until it encounters heavy resistance. How hard should it be to extend the piston? I'm worried about stripping the adjustment screw (again). Also that screw was rather wet - hard to tell what, but could be brake fluid. Is that normal or could this indicate a leak? IIRC in the old ones it was pretty dry.
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May 30, 2018 23:28
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mobby_6kl posted:Not that I disagree, but dumping its own cost in turbo parts into an old car just doesn't seem very appealing to me. Plus I enjoy being able to just drive it at any point (0 days downtime in over 5 years) and not constantly loving around with the bolt-on nonsense. I drove one with a built 1.6 and huge turbo pushing 19psi with over 220k miles on the odometer and it never hiccuped. These cars with turbo motors are no less reliable than stock if they're set up right. The other one I had was stock motor at 15psi and the only time it left me stranded was when I tore the rear end out with a launch. I knew it was the weak link and was just waiting to put a Torsen in it. The only other failure it had was that I tore second gear out of it, but it was able to be driven. 
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May 31, 2018 00:54
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mobby_6kl posted:Not that I disagree, but dumping its own cost in turbo parts into an old car just doesn't seem very appealing to me. Plus I enjoy being able to just drive it at any point (0 days downtime in over 5 years) and not constantly loving around with the bolt-on nonsense. It's probably brake fluid which means it's time for a new caliper, or you can rebuild it.
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May 31, 2018 02:10
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I bought a turbo Miata for around 4-4.5k some years back and transferred all the turbo bits to my other car, then sold it stock for around 3.5k. Then sold the wheels for $800 (te37s) Then sold the turbo car later for around 5.5k.  Both were 1.8 NAs, so they're out there. Best buying it already done and tweak to taste like you're saying.
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Jun 1, 2018 23:42
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TrueChaos posted:It's probably brake fluid which means it's time for a new caliper, or you can rebuild it. 
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Jun 7, 2018 21:11
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Sorry for the double post but I'm a bit stuck with the rebuild so hopefully somebody would know what's up. The seal on the right is the one I took out from the parking brake lever, on the left is what I got in the kit. Am I supposed to also take out the part that's still stuck in the caliper? It's metal with a thin layer of rubber. The new seal looks like it would fit in its place. Or did I just get the wrong seal in the kit? As I understand this is just to keep the dust and crap out and not the fluid in so I might get away with reusing it until I get the right seal. 
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Jun 8, 2018 17:59
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It looks like the old seal broke in half and part of it is still in there. I would remove all of the old seal and replace it with the new one.
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Jun 8, 2018 18:06
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I bought a '17 GT a few months ago and it's time to upgrade the suspension. This is a daily driver that will never see a track--I'm tired with the wallowing soft factory suspension. I was thinking of going with the Flyin' Miata Koni Stage 2 suspension package but I've heard the Koni shocks have quality issues. Does anyone have opinions or experience with this kit or the Konis in particular?
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Jun 9, 2018 01:04
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I have some Konis if you'd want to buy them. I had them on the car last year for most of the year with no issues.
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Jun 9, 2018 01:09
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What was your opinion of them for a street car?
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Jun 9, 2018 01:25
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I didn't have them degassed (autox stuff, lowers the car pretty significantly on stock springs) on stock springs and stock sways. They were fine on full soft and took some bumps better than the stock Bilsteins (high speed stuff like railroad tracks) but slow undulations (concrete pads on the freeway for example) were reallllly obnoxious. They made the car stick like glue even on the OEM tires and definitely increased the maximum cornering speed by a significant amount. Phone fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jun 9, 2018 |
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Jun 9, 2018 01:52
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Scored a hardtop for my 95M, in the matching color even! I dunno what the odds are on that, but I know I paid dearly for the experience. $1100 I'm guessing is the going rate for hardtops in good shape these days. Now I can say with one body part I doubled the purchase price of my Miata
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Jun 9, 2018 11:28
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^^^ Hardtops occasionally pop up up on the local forum for around $500-$800 and I kind of want one but always conclude it's not really worth it. Nocheez posted:It looks like the old seal broke in half and part of it is still in there. I would remove all of the old seal and replace it with the new one. I could've sworn it it was a separate part that I got out, but you're right, that was the inner part that got torn out. I pried the rest out with a screwdriver and popped the new one in. It's completely different construction what with the spring but seems to seal pretty well so what's the worst that could happen 
mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 11:57 on Jun 9, 2018 |
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Jun 9, 2018 11:52
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mobby_6kl posted:^^^ I think it depends very much on the area. I consider myself lucky to have found a non-defrost hardtop for $750 where I live - most of them are asking 900-1100.
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Jun 9, 2018 17:52
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Hard tops definitely aren't worth $1000. But there is something to be said about the value of having it when you want it.
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Jun 9, 2018 22:20
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Dear Internet, I have a Cruise Control Connection Conundrum. I decided a while back to cram cruise control in my recently purchased NB, and I'm just trying to install and wire things up. I thought my old NA had the connectors for it and I could steal some parts of the wiring harness for that, but neither of them seem to have any cruise-control related cabling in them whatsoever. Wiring-wise it's not that big a deal and I have most of it well under control, but I'm lost with the pinout for the vacuum servo actuator under the hood. Here's what it's plug looks like:  And here it is in the wiring diagram:  Now, the problem I have is figuring out which pin goes where. The cables on the servo are blue/orange, blue/yellow, blue/red and blue/black, which obviously matches nothing at all in the wiring diagram, but it is not at all uncommon for wires on either side of a connector to bear no relation colour-wise. I don't have any wiring diagrams with pin numbers in them nor any info on what pin numbers go where in such a connector. By measuring the resistances between pairs of pins, I could at least deduce that the blue/orange wire (top-left in the picture) corresponds to the pink one (the common one for all three solenoids/whatevers inside). My car lacks A/C, and has two empty connectors at the front-left of the engine compartment which appear to match the wiring diagram for condenser fan relay and A/C clutch relay. Both of these plugs physically fit the cruise control actuator, so I'll just cut one of them off and splice into my homemade cruise control wiring, but I need to figure out which wire is which. Has anyone seen a wiring diagram with some kind of pin numbers, ideally for both the cruise control servo plug and either of the AC ones so I can match them up? Or even better, if someone here has an NB with cruise control and is willing to take a peek and see what in the wiring harness matches what in the servo actuator. Mine is a 2002, but it seems at least 1999-2003 are the same, so probably goes for all of them.
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Jun 9, 2018 22:36
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Small update. Got wheels. You may think these are the BBS limited edition wheels, but these are a bit of a unicorn. Made in 1985, these wheels are manufactured by Work and they went by the name Ewing Mesh. drat near impossible to find, even harder in 4x100. I will be spending the next century trying to find a missing center cap.
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Jun 10, 2018 05:25
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That's a very nice look. The tan roof and the blue paint are a great combo, and the gold wheels really bring it all together. I'm happy I have the hardtop now. Yesterday I was testing it out and the whole sky opened up and poured it's rear end off. My soft top has no window so the miata would have been totally soaked inside. I'm getting a hell of a squeal from the left front now. I'm hoping I just slipped with the pickle fork again and pushed the backer plate into the rotor...again. I really hate doing wheel bearings on fixed axles like the miata has. E: Doing some research, it would seem the miata front wheel bearings are just as easy as most projects on this car. The last time I did a fwb on a rwd car, it was a 914 with the bearing races pressed into the rotor and you had to set the preload, what a pain in the rear end that was. BloodBag fucked around with this message at 11:27 on Jun 10, 2018 |
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Jun 10, 2018 10:38
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I got a slightly beat up NB hardtop for $500 a couple of years back, it has come in handy since my 10AE soft top is less than perfect.
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Jun 10, 2018 11:13
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um excuse me posted:Small update. Got wheels. I think you’d be surprised what bbs has parts for. Have you tried eBay?
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Jun 11, 2018 01:21
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Yep. Set of 3.  Problem is they're different from the ones I have which just have the Work "W" on it. I'd settle for BBS having something that fits without a logo on it at all.Mine:  Edit: While I'm here. Anyone have a decent road spring/shock set up that will get my Miata's badonkadonk back where it should be? The fender gap is massive. Lower than stock is okay as long as it isn't stance nation poo poo. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Jun 11, 2018 |
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Jun 11, 2018 01:48
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It's less of a good avenue these days, but take off MSM is not a terrible setup. For everyday putting around town, tossing in some Koni yellows + getting new bumpstops isn't a bad way to go. The issue is that getting an actually good setup is basically Xidas which have a $2k price tag (and they punch well well well above their weight), but everything in the $1k range is hot garbage.
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Jun 11, 2018 03:16
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Now here's an interesting new "confirmed" rumor: 2019 Miata to get power bump from 155 to 181hp along with redline bump from 6800 to 7500rpm. https://www.autoblog.com/2018/06/11/mazda-miata-more-horsepower-higher-redline/ I'll believe it when the official Mazda USA press release goes out, but that would be a fairly significant update.
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Jun 11, 2018 19:05
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Good, hopefully it will be a S2000 killer and I can move on. Also, I want a Supermiata. 
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Jun 11, 2018 19:09
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BlackMK4 posted:Good, hopefully it will be a S2000 killer and I can move on. You are nuts
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Jun 11, 2018 19:46
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you're not wrong, at all
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Jun 11, 2018 20:53
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I appreciate these updates for my future self who buys a new miata one day.
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Jun 12, 2018 15:50
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I finally finished installing my new clutch+rear.main seal+rear oilpan seal and new slave cylinder. I only broke off 3 exhaust bolts! The difference is night and day, so much easier to drive now. I need to stop by a muffler shop tomorrow and have them drill out and slap in the new bolts, its a little loud but not horrible enough not to drive around for a few days, just not totally sealed up.
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Jun 12, 2018 16:12
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If I can put the telescoping wheel in my 2017 ND I will N U T T
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Jun 12, 2018 16:20
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