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I need to drive a '18 premium to see how how it feels compared to my '11. The Recaros of the performance package would solve one of the biggest things I don't like about the '11 (the horrible unsupportive marshmallow seats). I just need to see how much a new one improves handling and steering feel. I really don't want to go back to a sedan. At the same time, Type Rs are still impossible to get a hold of and I really don't know how well the 19" wheels and lower bodywork are going to hold up long term around here. I literally fall asleep looking at the Golf R it's so boring. The Focus RS I test drove just didn't do it for me. I would consider a Stinger GT, but I don't know if I want a larger car and I also don't want to go to an automatic. If I pick up a '19 Series Gray, I get a WRX that's gone through 4 years of refinement on the current chassis and I'm expecting the new WRX to be at least 2 years away at this point (and then be impossible to buy for at least another 9 months).
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Jun 6, 2018 14:22
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I've got an eBay coupon burning a hole in my pocket, and need new front endlinks for my '07 WRX. Kartboy? Any other brands to consider? Will I need the Kartboy spacer kit if I have an Eibach sway bar?
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Jun 6, 2018 15:58
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Anyone know where I can get one of these?
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Jun 7, 2018 00:06
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FogHelmut posted:Anyone know where I can get one of these? Junkyard? Try Opposed Forces to see if you can get the part number out of the fiche.
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Jun 7, 2018 00:16
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Only info I've found is that they break a lot and don't seem to be sold separate from the whole visor.
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Jun 7, 2018 00:33
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Mine broke and I just haven't looked at replacing it for the past year figuring it'd be visor only. If you happen to get lucky please post an update.
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Jun 7, 2018 00:54
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Anyone want to have a go at time attack?
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Jun 7, 2018 01:45
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Somebody buy that and just turn it back into a street car.
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Jun 7, 2018 02:06
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Cawker 
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Jun 7, 2018 02:07
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FogHelmut posted:Anyone know where I can get one of these? Had to order the whole visor assembly when mine broke. I think there's a little ball socket type thing that breaks off and stays in the roof. Not sure it's possible to cram a new visor in there, but I also didn't try and just ordered a new one off the eBay.
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Jun 7, 2018 03:00
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Anyone got a 3d printer? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2522820
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Jun 7, 2018 04:30
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bull3964 posted:I need to drive a '18 premium to see how how it feels compared to my '11. The vehicles you quoted {Focus RS, Golf R, Type R} I think are closer class to an STi than a WRX. You thinking of getting an STi? You’d probably be the only one in Pittsburgh so I can wave frantically at you when I see you. FWIW, I had a 2015 WRX and then traded it for a 2017 STi and couldn’t be happier. I’m sure the updates would be nice on the 2019.
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Jun 8, 2018 05:21
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I have no desire at all to buy another EJ25. At the end of the day, the STI really isn't appreciably faster than a WRX and it's a whole lot of extra expense for not really a ton of gain unless you are tracking the car. But if the intent is to track the car, there's a least two other better choices out there right now. I do have just about the only Series.Blue. BRZ in the area though. They only made 500 of them. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 06:22 on Jun 8, 2018 |
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Jun 8, 2018 06:13
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So lately I've been lusting after an Impreza Outback Sport, ideally a 10-11 model. Most of the 10s and 11s I see are salvage titled for some reason. There's a place nearby that has an 09 with 90k miles. How likely is it the head gaskets are already toast? I have a tester thing I can use on it and see if there's exhaust in the coolant but realistically what's the lifespan on those head gaskets? Also how much am I looking at to get them replaced? I'm not in a hurry to buy, is it better to just wait for a '10-11 model?
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Jun 9, 2018 00:13
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I bought an STi because it felt like it had a lot more low end torque, and of course the differentials. I dunno. Maybe I’m dumb? But I drove them back-to-back and just liked the STi better.
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Jun 9, 2018 16:21
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berth ell pup posted:So lately I've been lusting after an Impreza Outback Sport, ideally a 10-11 model. Most of the 10s and 11s I see are salvage titled for some reason. There's a place nearby that has an 09 with 90k miles. How likely is it the head gaskets are already toast? I have a tester thing I can use on it and see if there's exhaust in the coolant but realistically what's the lifespan on those head gaskets? Also how much am I looking at to get them replaced? I'm not in a hurry to buy, is it better to just wait for a '10-11 model? They were both terrible cars and I didn't even bother driving one. One had crowbar marks on the drivers door and b-pillar from where someone broke in, and the other was beat to hell at 90k miles and the body had more scratches and damage than my 250k+ mile old 240. It also had been in an accident since the rear door didnt close right and scraped the jamb. Also both had body rust here in the South, bad sign. The interiors seemed really lovely too and its making me wonder if i can't do better with $8500 Fortunately I guess I look like a broke-rear end bum and I was allowed to examine the cars extensively without being disturbed by salesmen.
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Jun 10, 2018 00:56
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Brakes got an upgrade today. The old brakes were just about up for replacement. Subaru quoted me $800 so I suddenly had a   Starting off strong.     Rust, RUST   All fitted back together   First impressions: These are way more brake than I have tire. Tire lock up is effortless even on my autocross tires. Initial bite is lighter but really leans into it quickly. I feel a slight improvement in pedal feel with steel lines, but not as much as some seem to rave about. Maybe the old lines weren't that bad. Special thanks to Jamal. He curated the recommendation and ordered the parts for road use and autocross. This kit costs 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of a big brake kit. I don't have the money to do track days, so a big brake kit seems unnecessary anyways. I'm autocrossing tomorrow so we'll see if it makes a huge difference or not.
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Jun 10, 2018 05:14
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Anybody here have an opinion on EcoHitch ? I'd like to put a hitch on my 2018 Outback for a small utility trailer so I can move plywood / drywall / furniture. Mostly I'm concerned with not doing anything the dealership can try and use to avoid honoring the warranty, and this is the only hitch I found that mounts the same way the tiny OEM one does. Plus living in the Northeast I really don't want to have to drill into the frame & pray whatever the installer sprays on the bare metal is at least as good as the factory rust prevention.
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Jun 13, 2018 16:59
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Whats the opinion on Rota Wheels? I am looking at the Hashtags @ 9.5 +40
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Jun 14, 2018 15:11
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They're cheap and fine for street use but I don't think I'd take one to a HPDE.
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Jun 14, 2018 15:23
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aluminumonkey posted:Whats the opinion on Rota Wheels? I am looking at the Hashtags @ 9.5 +40 Replica wheel manufacturer. They take other wheel designs and copy them. That should make them pretty easy to weigh ethically as a company. They might not have your best interest in mind. I'd stay the hell away from them personally. Plenty of stories of Grids blowing up. Probably okay for street like Larrymer says but I wouldn't risk it because they still need to work in emergencies.
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Jun 14, 2018 15:41
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um excuse me posted:Replica wheel manufacturer. They take other wheel designs and copy them. That should make them pretty easy to weigh ethically as a company. They might not have your best interest in mind. I'd stay the hell away from them personally. Plenty of stories of Grids blowing up. Probably okay for street like Larrymer says but I wouldn't risk it because they still need to work in emergencies. Good to know, I had a feeling that were the case. Was hoping they starting doing things correctly. I wish more manufacturers made wheels that were not 9.5 +35.
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Jun 14, 2018 16:02
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A lot (not all) of wheels can be machined a few mm to the specs you want. It can cause issues with closed end lugs since the studs stick out more, but open end lugs exist for this reason.
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Jun 14, 2018 16:41
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aluminumonkey posted:Whats the opinion on Rota Wheels? I am looking at the Hashtags @ 9.5 +40 rotas are horrible trash that break easily.
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Jun 14, 2018 16:49
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FogHelmut posted:Anyone got a 3d printer? https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=3860025 This guy is 3D printing, I need to take my visor mount apart to see what all is broken in mine but if it's just the mount I plan to try this.
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Jun 15, 2018 02:57
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aluminumonkey posted:Whats the opinion on Rota Wheels? I am looking at the Hashtags @ 9.5 +40 We have had a set of Rotas do 6 or 7 3~5 day national level tarmac rallies. Avoid jumping curbs and you'll be fine.
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Jun 15, 2018 05:19
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Hi Subaru thread  I may be joining the ranks of Subaru Ownership this weekend. Tomorrow I'm gonna go take a lookit this 2004 Forester 5-speed w/188k on the clock. Can't find an XT with a manual with fewer than 200k so here we go! Also never looked at a Subie before but the OP was real helpful so I feel prepared (sorta)!
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Jun 15, 2018 14:08
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97 Legacy Outback 4eat. I was driving straight down a road about 40mph today and I heard a noise like a quick bang but not loud. I thought I lost a tool I left underhood kind of sound. It wasn't that but I drove home and everything was normal. I then jacked up one rear tire to see if the diff exploded or something and I could spin the tire freely, the 3 other tires were on the ground and it was in park, driveshaft was spinning. I know it has a clutch to send power to the rear wheels during slippage, is this disconnected while the car is off or is the clutch broken? It made no noises at all the rest of the drive.
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Jun 17, 2018 02:51
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How hard is it to replace the serpentine on an 03 Outback 2.5 n/a? I just had mine pop off while in the line for In N Out. Got my burg then limped to my friend's house where the it's parked until it's light out and I can see what the gently caress I'm doing.
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Jun 17, 2018 05:53
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Its super easy, all you need is a 12mm. There are 2 belts. If it was the a.c. belt you'll need a box end since the nut for the idler is close to the cooling fan. Loosen that first then use the bolt on the threaded rod to move the idler up. The alternator/ps pump just loosen the bolt on the front first then lower the alternator with the threaded rod.
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Jun 17, 2018 14:40
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shy boy from chess club posted:Its super easy, all you need is a 12mm. There are 2 belts. If it was the a.c. belt you'll need a box end since the nut for the idler is close to the cooling fan. Loosen that first then use the bolt on the threaded rod to move the idler up. The alternator/ps pump just loosen the bolt on the front first then lower the alternator with the threaded rod. Thanks. I was assuming it was a full serpentine not two separate belts. The hardest part was pulling the old belt off the crank pulley after it got wrapped around it and under the other belt. Had to use a flat blade to pry it off and then blip the engine a few times.
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Jun 17, 2018 23:09
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Crossposting part of this from the stupid question thread since I didn't get answer there and I figure it's just a quick "don't worry about it". I'm a mechanically inclined person with a lot of experience working on bikes (as in bicycles) and industrial equipment, but never had any reasonable space to work on my car. I finally have a small garage and free time, so I've started learning to work on my 2010 Impreza, and am pretty clueless about what I guess is basic car mechanic knowledge. I replaced the original spark plugs with NGK Iridium ones after 110,000km. The first start afterwards took 4-5 seconds of cranking before it started, instead of immediately. The cranking didn't sound weak or anything. No issues starting since, engine seems to be running perfectly fine, I took it for 100km or so on the highway with no issues. Any cause for concern? I've read that disconnecting the battery can cause the fuel to run back out of the system and cause a slow start (wouldn't there be a check valve somewhere?), but I've disconnected the battery a few times before but don't remember it doing that before. Could be wrong about that though and I'm just paying more attention now. Also, my brake pedal takes quite a bit of travel before the brakes engage. Not sure if it's gradually gotten there or was like that always. On my bike I'd bleed the lines to sort that out ASAP as I'd be in danger of the levers bottoming out. Will bleeding the lines on my car accomplish the same thing on the car? Or does even a freshly bled brake system on a 2010 Impreza have quite a bit of dead zone on the pedal? Driving rental cars is always a bit jarring when there isn't a bunch of play on the pedal.
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Jun 18, 2018 00:23
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Was at the dealership for an alignment. Poked around.    Goddammit Subaru. 
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Jun 18, 2018 05:01
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Kreez posted:Will bleeding the lines on my car accomplish the same thing on the car? Should do
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Jun 18, 2018 05:11
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210k miles on an 04 WRX and when the car has warmed up and a make a tight turn, I feel like I hear and feel drive line binding. Google says dickered center diff. I'm not a happy camper. Also sounds like a pulley bearing is circling the drain now. And the front for sure needs bushings. This car may not be long for this world.
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Jun 18, 2018 05:26
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um excuse me posted:Was at the dealership for an alignment. Poked around. An STI Limited has an MSRP of $41,000
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Jun 18, 2018 05:27
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Bum the Sad posted:An STI Limited has an MSRP of $41,000 That looks like a Type RA which comes in right at 50K.
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Jun 18, 2018 06:20
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The gently caress.
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Jun 18, 2018 07:35
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I like how brazen these fuckers are with it straight up being "mark up" as a line item there. Yet another reason to hate the dealership model.
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Jun 18, 2018 13:38
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Bajaha posted:I like how brazen these fuckers are with it straight up being "mark up" as a line item there. This times infinity. That'll look nice in their show room until the end of time.
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Jun 18, 2018 14:07
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