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I watch a lot of woodworkers on YouTube. I ran into Chad Stanton's channel recently and he's become a new favorite. He used to do the "I Can Do That"' series at Popular Woodworking, but now he's just doing his own videos. His videos are well produced, but still very casual. He posts a video every Monday in a series showing off viewer-submitted projects, so that's a great way to see a variety of what people are doing. And a few times a month he posts technique videos, like this week he showed how he cuts rabbets with a shoulder plane. While the technique is pretty standard, he cuts the knife line for the rabbet's shoulder in a novel way that I haven't seen before. I love watching lots of different woodworkers to get a wide range of different techniques to try out on my own projects.
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Jun 16, 2018 17:48
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I don’t know if his personal stuff is edited different than the pop woodworking videos, but I always hated the flow of them “Alright now we’re going to make this cut” *puts on eye protectjon* *puts on hearing protection* *lines up circular saw* *takes five seconds of cut in real time* ... *removes hearing protection and glasses* Now we need to crosscut this piece down to 14 inches *puts on glasses* Etc And it’s just a lot of information that could be conveyed much more expediently
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Jun 16, 2018 18:01
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Roy Underhill on 'The Woodwright's Shop' will always be the king for me. There's about a decade of them up on the PBS website too. His book 'The woodwright's Guide: Working wood with wedge and edge' is really a wonderful book too.
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Jun 16, 2018 18:53
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Turning some white oak into black oak to turn into cerused oak for a funny little table.  
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Jun 16, 2018 22:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Turning some white oak into black oak to turn into cerused oak for a funny little table. Oh man gently caress you if that is your cavernous workspace!
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Jun 17, 2018 03:46
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My old boss is restoring a school hall out in the country, and wanted a replacement table top for an old table they have out there. The top needs to be quite large, 2.5m by 1m. I've been building things like bedside tables, occasional tables, speaker stands etc, so this is considerably larger. It did give me a chance to use the new combo jointer/thicknesser, which worked ok but I got quite a bit of snipe, particularly when jointing. To make it a bit easier I built some saw-horses based on Paul Sellers' design, and I really like how they turned out. I also modified one to act as an outfeed-roller, since putting 2.5m boards through the jointer/thicknesser is too much for one person.  Once I realised there would be no way to clamp the breadboard ends on, I decided to draw bore them. This worked out quite well and help close up some gaps that I had.   Next step is going to be flattening it a bit. Its currently nowhere near flat, but I think I'm just going to smooth out any visible imperfections rather than trying to get the whole thing granite-flat. After that, I'll put some epoxy in a few of the natural voids and gum-lines, then oil and burnish the top. Just moving something of this size around the garage has been a struggle, and I have to get my girlfriend's help to flip it/move it now that its full size.  
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Jun 17, 2018 12:25
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Granite Octopus posted:My old boss is restoring a school hall out in the country, and wanted a replacement table top for an old table they have out there. That looks really nice
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Jun 17, 2018 13:34
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Looks great! What kind of wood is it? Kind of looks like red grandis.
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Jun 17, 2018 15:19
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I just bought a three wheel bandsaw. I know three wheel saws aren't ideal, but this is a 15" saw with 10" wheels  it also cost the same as a new 8" benchtop jobby.The downside is it'll be a couple of weeks at least until I get it.
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Jun 17, 2018 15:54
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cakesmith handyman posted:I just bought a three wheel bandsaw. I know three wheel saws aren't ideal, but this is a 15" saw with 10" wheels The INCA three wheelers are fine, but ive never seen another one that was. That said, 10" wheels are much closer to the INCA and youll probably be fine? Do post pics.
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Jun 17, 2018 16:03
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When I get it I will. I need to clear space in the garage before then, this should be the kick I need to get rid of some junk. E: this isn't it but it's the same model 
cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jun 17, 2018 |
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Jun 17, 2018 16:06
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Beautiful.
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Jun 17, 2018 18:26
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Woodworking has been pretty scarce since we had out second child, but I have been slowly picking away at a couple serving trays. I managed to scrape and sand the veneered panels today and I'm pretty pumped with how they turned out. Just need to cut them to size, and build a tray to go around them. Don't mind the dark spots in the centre of the big tray, those are blemishes on my phone lens.
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Jun 17, 2018 19:07
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Hello wood nerds  I have a very general beginner's question. It's about whether it'd be more useful to expand hand or power tools, essentially. A while ago I started to work a little bit with wood at home. I've built a simple foot rest so far, s small simple shelving for inside our kitchen cabinet, a monitor stand with a very simple drawer (just a plank wedged between two supports), and a couple of small trays. Right now I'm using leftover wood strips to make to make some nice two-color sandwich trays. My next project would be to make a small night stand. If I'm really really careful, I can make a somewhat straight cut across a small board. That means I'm way less useless than a couple of weeks before. I'd like to make more stuff, like bigger boxes, small chests/cabinets, a bigger shelf, and other things. But I don't have a dedicated workshop, so I'm limited in the kind of tools that I can use. For woodworking in particular, I've got a chisel, cheapy plane, a couple of clamps, a miter box that came with a saw, and one of these 90 degree rulers. And a portable work bench. Due to us living in an apartment, I'm usually going to the neighbourhood park for all the dusty stuff (sawing a lot, sanding). With all this in mind, I wanted to buy some more tools. I'm torn between buying more hand tools, such as a Japanese Ryoba saw (everyone recommends them), a better plane, a selection of chisels, and sharpening equipment (my single chisel is showing wear). Alternatively, since I have to do my sawing outdoors anyway, I thought I might alternatively get a cordless circular saw. With that I'd be able to make short work of wood planks, could easily make miter cuts and rabbets (rabbets are what I hate most at the moment; when I tried it with my saw and chisel on a small test piece it took me ages and looked like poo poo). Those wooden boxes and cabinets would practically make themselves, I feel. So these are the two options I'm torn between. Can anyone help me on the way to decide what tools would be better for my scope of projects?
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Jun 17, 2018 19:15
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My experience is that in a tight space, hand tools are easier to navigate and get acceptable working positions. Power tools need more room to be effective. I don't think you're going to get good miter cuts or rabbets from a circular saw either, you need a table saw for those. Or a miter saw, in the case of miter cuts. If you're going to make lots of cross cuts of boards, I'd say get a miter saw, and practice making straight cuts with a hand saw.
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Jun 17, 2018 19:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Looks great! What kind of wood is it? Kind of looks like red grandis. Thanks! It’s Tassie oak/Victorian ash, which is what they call all varieties of the eucalyptus family here. It’s nothing like oak or ash either. I buy construction grade stuff (sold as F17 hardwood) which is cheap but the quality varies greatly. There’s a lot of variation in colour and density between boards as well. It is quite dry though. It’s a bit splintery, and with pieces this long I’ve ended up with a fair bit of reversing grain. Going to deal with that with lots of card scraping.
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Jun 17, 2018 22:27
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I have this larch. It’s still quite pale due to being fresh, but those planks which have caught the sun are turning a nice golden colour. I don’t like the slivering that eventually happens so I’ll be using a uv protective oil. Should I leave the boards once fitted outside with just one coat of normal oils until it reaches the colour I want and then hit it with the uv protection, or will the oils leak enough through that it’s best to put it on right away? 
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Jun 18, 2018 13:32
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Woodworking has been pretty scarce since we had out second child, but I have been slowly picking away at a couple serving trays. I managed to scrape and sand the veneered panels today and I'm pretty pumped with how they turned out. Just need to cut them to size, and build a tray to go around them. Looks great. How did you veneer them? I've done a lot in a big vacuum press but keep wanting to try hammer veneering with hot hide glue.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Looks great. How did you veneer them? I've done a lot in a big vacuum press but keep wanting to try hammer veneering with hot hide glue. Thanks, I used a small hand pump vacuum press.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:48
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I'm building a desk flush to the wall on the back and one edge. Anyone have a fun idea for cord access other than a straight hole in the top?
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Jun 19, 2018 01:53
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Huxley posted:I'm building a desk flush to the wall on the back and one edge. Anyone have a fun idea for cord access other than a straight hole in the top? Home theater stuff has stuff where you can cut a hole in the wall above and below then put a fixture over it with a pipe connecting them. I've mostly seen it done to hide cables going to a wall mounted TV. I think you can also use Central vacuum fixtures. This kind of thing: https://www.monoprice.com/category?c_id=109&cp_id=10425&cs_id=1042514 Squibbles fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 02:26
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Huxley posted:I'm building a desk flush to the wall on the back and one edge. Anyone have a fun idea for cord access other than a straight hole in the top? Route a recess for that Lego-compatible tape and build a cave mouth for the cables Or flush mount a mouth-shaped fleshlight
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Jun 19, 2018 08:04
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Granite Octopus posted:My old boss is restoring a school hall out in the country, and wanted a replacement table top for an old table they have out there. You actually can clamp the breadboard by going clamp to clamp to clamp. I've done it many a time, but I think the thread will agree that your workaround, while requiring much more work from you, is quite pleasing.
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Jun 19, 2018 15:11
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cakesmith handyman posted:Or flush mount a mouth-shaped fleshlight Fun idea for Javid's showroom floor.
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Jun 19, 2018 15:15
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Mr. Mambold posted:You actually can clamp the breadboard by going clamp to clamp to clamp. I've done it many a time, but I think the thread will agree that your workaround, while requiring much more work from you, is quite pleasing. Ah thanks! I always forget about being able to do that for some reason... It actually would help me for another project where i dont have lightweight clamps of the right length.
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Jun 20, 2018 11:48
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I finished The Cat Tower this past weekend. I wrote a jillion words about it if you're into that kind of thing, including some thoughts on the design and pictures of the cats. The short version is, this turned out to be largely a project for practicing skills and building confidence, as opposed to trying new techniques. Lots of joinery that all had to fit together at the same time. I was very relieved that glue-up went as smoothly as it did. One of our cats now spends all day every day on top of this thing.
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Jun 22, 2018 02:08
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Oh hey I made my mom one of those a couple years ago 
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Jun 22, 2018 03:41
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Javid posted:Oh hey I made my mom one of those a couple years ago
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Jun 22, 2018 04:24
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ColdPie posted:I finished The Cat Tower this past weekend. I wrote a jillion words about it if you're into that kind of thing, including some thoughts on the design and pictures of the cats. The short version is, this turned out to be largely a project for practicing skills and building confidence, as opposed to trying new techniques. Lots of joinery that all had to fit together at the same time. I was very relieved that glue-up went as smoothly as it did. One of our cats now spends all day every day on top of this thing.  More like rabbet tower amirite?Looks pretty cool! Edit: Looking at your blog post, any tips for wrapping the rope in good around the post? We tried to re-wrap one we had a long while back and it didn't go very well, wrapping was too loose and it worked itself off pretty quick. Curious if you found any tricks. I can definitely see myself building something very similar to this for the house in the future given the multiple cats. That Works fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 12:05
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I have these stacks of cladding acclimatising in my kitchen/dining/workshop area, stacked flat in rows with spacers every two boards. A couple of the boards were slightly twisted when I brought them in, so I moved those towards the bottom of the stacks. Yesterday I noticed that one of the boards which was previously straight and flat is now alarmingly bent in two axes, it's curved the edges up against gravity and done the same thing sideways. There's some similar smaller examples elsewhere in the stack but nothing quite so dramatic. Am I doing something wrong? Or does this just happen sometimes? The boards had been there for a few days at that point.
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Jun 22, 2018 12:22
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nielsm posted:My experience is that in a tight space, hand tools are easier to navigate and get acceptable working positions. Power tools need more room to be effective. I took your advice. Ordered myself a diamond sharpening plate and some other doodads for blade maintenance. Will soon get some round wood to make myself a couple of bench dogs. Promised to myself I'd get one of those Japanese saws + a few chisels once I start my next project. That'll either be a nice box from soft and hard wood, or a night stand. Are there any Dutchies in this thread by the way? I'm having trouble sourcing nice wood. I'm only getting it at the hardware store, which - not helpfully - simply calls their wood 'hard' or 'soft'.
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Jun 22, 2018 13:52
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Lord Stimperor posted:I took your advice. Ordered myself a diamond sharpening plate and some other doodads for blade maintenance. Will soon get some round wood to make myself a couple of bench dogs. Promised to myself I'd get one of those Japanese saws + a few chisels once I start my next project. That'll either be a nice box from soft and hard wood, or a night stand. As a beginner I've found this book to be especially good https://www.amazon.com/Minimalist-Woodworker-Essential-Tools-Building/dp/1940611350 I have plenty of other books as well, but for a single source this one had a lot of good and useful info and combined with suggestions from this thread it was quite useful.
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Jun 22, 2018 13:58
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Lord Stimperor posted:Are there any Dutchies in this thread by the way? I'm having trouble sourcing nice wood. I'm only getting it at the hardware store, which - not helpfully - simply calls their wood 'hard' or 'soft'. Denmark here, I've also had trouble finding good sources of lumber. What I did was look around on various yellow pages services and look for saw mills, and ended up finding a good one about 30 km away. Expect to pay 10x the price of construction grade wood.
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Jun 22, 2018 14:47
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have these stacks of cladding acclimatising in my kitchen/dining/workshop area, stacked flat in rows with spacers every two boards. Changes in moisture content causes wood to move, and how it moves depends on the individual board's grain and how it is constrained. So yeah, this is expected, and is exactly why you want to let the boards acclimatize before you install them. Imagine the hassle if you'd nailed those things to the wall already. You should contact the company you bought the wood from and ask about returning unusable boards.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have these stacks of cladding acclimatising in my kitchen/dining/workshop area, stacked flat in rows with spacers every two boards. All that being said, you really need to have a stick between every board. Having one between every two boards is doing more harm than good-air needs to circulate around all 4 sides of a board so it can dry evenly. Having one side of the board up against another board is going to keep that side from drying at the same rate and cause warping. I would bet the ends of those boards are warping away from each other. Some of that warp may even out when the covered side has a chance to dry, but don't count on it. Putting sticks between every row and about every 2' in length and within 6" of the end will help. You can also tighten a few ratchet straps around the pile to keep everything tight.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What kind of wood is it and did you buy it fresh sawn/green from a sawmill or from a lumberyard and do you know the moisture content when you purchased it? If it's construction lumber, it is usually around 15%MC and will warp some with continued drying indoors-that's to be expected and generally acceptable given the end use of the material. If you bought it as kiln dried furniture/cabinet/millwork grade wood, it should have been dried to 7-8%MC and should not be warping like that and you should raise hell with whoever you bought it from. It is supposedly kiln dried. You may be right about the spacers, I just didn’t have any more. It should be fine as long as it’s not too many boards, I bought extra for wastage and they sent a few extra. I’ll keep an eye on it. Edit: Siberian larch
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Jun 22, 2018 17:34
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nielsm posted:Denmark here, I've also had trouble finding good sources of lumber. What I did was look around on various yellow pages services and look for saw mills, and ended up finding a good one about 30 km away. Expect to pay 10x the price of construction grade wood. I'm in Iceland, but our Bauhaus gets their wood from Denmark, from Froslev Træ: http://www.froeslev.dk/ Their wood is stamped and labeled with the C grades and Treatment level if appropriate (Klasse AB being ok for outdoors, A for direct soil contact)
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Jun 22, 2018 18:09
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So at the end of May I liberated some Black Walnut from my parent's. It was in logs and was from trees that my dad had cut down because they were doing that thing that walnut does and killing everything around it. He also took down a ton of American Buckthorn, but that was in less useful state. Anyway, I took three walnut and one buckthorn logs that were between 2-3' long and have been working them into useful state. They were stored outside in the wood pile, so I was dealing with some rot and one walnut was completely trashed. The other two were pretty nice, and aside from some splitting in the ends, they were fairly dry and workable. So work them I did.  I've never done anything with my hands quite this much, and the chiseling made me hate my chisels, but that's to be expected when they're some cheap set I purchased from Harbor Freight. They hold an edge okay, but their construction gets in the way quickly enough after the blade, so I had to work around that. It's not perfectly straight, but it is useable as a mallet. That's good enough for me, and I'm making a second one and a cutting/serving board from the rest of the walnut and expect that it will get better with practice. The maybe 5' of buckthorn will probably get turned into a napkin holder or serving board as well. It was in worse shape than the walnut, so I don't know if I'll get much or anything out of it.
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Jun 22, 2018 18:10
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  Really like the woodgears style tool cart construction. It's crazy stiff and looks cool.  I can't wait to see how badly the drawer parts I resawed today warp overnight
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jun 24, 2018 |
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Jun 24, 2018 04:49
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Schwarz said 2 days.... he said... 2 days...   Signed, me, 2 months later Notes: if you're building sawbenches, there's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't just stake it syp is hard, no it's soft, no it's hard, wait... soft, and nope sorry it was hard and sappy spax me
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Jun 24, 2018 18:13
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