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Max Wilco posted:I kind of wanted to try getting some of ones with the beak-helmets Come play with resin, m'lord.
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Jun 18, 2018 12:14
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Does anyone have experience with Vallejo Metallic Medium? I am thinking about using it along with white paint or ink. I'm looking for an iridescent pearl effect.
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Jun 18, 2018 16:16
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I wouldn't mix it with white or you'll dilute the effect. You would be better off putting down a base of white and putting the medium on top of that. DecoArt pearl medium I've tested a little and also is okay. They both kind of have big particles so it won't quite be a smooth pearl effect and it's not super pronounced. It might be worth experimenting putting it on top of a layer pre-colored with NMM pearl shading or going over with it with a super thin glaze if you want it stronger. If you want to color either I would probably use ink or go over with a glaze. When I've mixed them with paint as mentioned it dilutes the particles and tends to lighten the color the more you add since the acrylic medium isn't entirely clear.
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Jun 18, 2018 17:01
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Two Beans posted:Come play with resin, m'lord. Do not do that. Do what I do; set up an eBay search for "40k beakie" to notify you by email whenever a new item with that set of keywords goes up for sale. Every so often, one of the bitz resellers will dissect about ten tactical squad sets and start selling the parts individually; there's a little bit of the sprue with all three beakie helmet options adjacent to each other and it's one of the parts that goes up. Usually sells for about four or five bucks each for three helmets; this is, of course, unreasonably expensive by any normal standard, but it's still much cheaper than resorting to ForgeWorld.
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Jun 18, 2018 17:04
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I'm pretty happy with how this is shaping up, but I could certainly use some constructive criticism. Pretty much the only thing that is 100% done is the blade on the sword. I want to call the blue parts of the armor done, but i'm torn between highlighting it further or leaving it alone because the model is already incredibly busy. Should I further highlight the gold? Should I highlight the blue?     
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Jun 18, 2018 17:49
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Zuul the Cat posted:I'm pretty happy with how this is shaping up, but I could certainly use some constructive criticism. I think the blue elements that aren't gold-filigreed -- the helmet grill, the backpack console, and maybe the fingers -- could use some highlights. The gold itself looks fine to me right now, but maybe highlight those bits of blue and then see if the gold needs anything afterwards.
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Jun 18, 2018 17:59
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I would highlight the blue, and possibly try to blend the flames on the sword. As for the gold I think I would try to shade it a bit more to add some richness that would better complement the blue. Maybe a sepia pin wash.
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Jun 18, 2018 18:01
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The blue bits that actually have edges (boots, helmet, fingers) could use an edge highlight. I think the gold looks great but if anything I would shade it a bit.
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Jun 18, 2018 18:11
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darnon posted:I wouldn't mix it with white or you'll dilute the effect. You would be better off putting down a base of white and putting the medium on top of that. DecoArt pearl medium I've tested a little and also is okay. They both kind of have big particles so it won't quite be a smooth pearl effect and it's not super pronounced. It might be worth experimenting putting it on top of a layer pre-colored with NMM pearl shading or going over with it with a super thin glaze if you want it stronger. Agreeing with this.
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Jun 18, 2018 18:14
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Aniodia posted:If you want a bunch of beakie helmets... You can also try making a mould yourself with oyumaru/blue stuff and making them out of green stuff or miliput; I've been trying it and it's not a bad way to make a few small parts.
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Jun 18, 2018 18:29
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Stephenls posted:I think the blue elements that aren't gold-filigreed -- the helmet grill, the backpack console, and maybe the fingers -- could use some highlights. The gold itself looks fine to me right now, but maybe highlight those bits of blue and then see if the gold needs anything afterwards. I'll definitely highlight those then. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I would highlight the blue, and possibly try to blend the flames on the sword. As for the gold I think I would try to shade it a bit more to add some richness that would better complement the blue. Maybe a sepia pin wash. I'm actually pretty happy with the sword. I don't want to mess with it because from tabletop length, it looks like it's on fire. My concern is that if i try to blend it more, it's going to get washed out. For that pin wash, would i apply the sepia wash directly onto the gold or in the recess on the blue next to it? On the armor, my method was Macragge Blue base coat, nuln oil wash, then brought back up with macragge. I'll give it another pass over, maybe it'll darken it some. ; The Moon Monster posted:The blue bits that actually have edges (boots, helmet, fingers) could use an edge highlight. I think the gold looks great but if anything I would shade it a bit. I should shade the gold down more? I sprayed the whole thing gold, washed Reikland and did a retributor armor highlight. I'll definitely highlight the blue.
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Jun 18, 2018 18:38
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Mikey Purp posted:Does anyone have experience with Vallejo Metallic Medium? I am thinking about using it along with white paint or ink. I'm looking for an iridescent pearl effect. I would get Scale75's White Alchemy paint.
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Jun 18, 2018 18:53
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Mikey Purp posted:Does anyone have experience with Vallejo Metallic Medium? I am thinking about using it along with white paint or ink. I'm looking for an iridescent pearl effect. I've tried it, but the only way I could get anything that looked metallic at the end was to use... Already metallic paint so the mix was just a little more metallic and lighter than the original. Maybe my ratios were off?
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Jun 18, 2018 19:01
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Zuul the Cat posted:I should shade the gold down more? I sprayed the whole thing gold, washed Reikland and did a retributor armor highlight. I'll definitely highlight the blue. Well like I said I think it looks good as is, but if you want more contrast I would shade some of the recessed parts (not an all over shade) rather than brightening it.
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Jun 18, 2018 19:02
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Zuul the Cat posted:I'll definitely highlight those then. If you're happy with the sword then don't change it. I meant shade the gold so it better complements the blue armor, not shade the blue. I don't think it needs to be darker. I would apply the sepia directly into the recesses of the gold.
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Jun 18, 2018 20:30
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Anycubic Photon. Wow - I was looking at prints online, and there are some phenomenal looking models! Are you seeing any stepping that you have clean off? There were a couple 28mm D&D type models that I couldn't see any stepping on at all.
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Jun 18, 2018 20:54
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berzerkmonkey posted:Wow - I was looking at prints online, and there are some phenomenal looking models! Are you seeing any stepping that you have clean off? There were a couple 28mm D&D type models that I couldn't see any stepping on at all. There's some interesting edge effects, but no stepping at all at a 20 micron layer thickness.
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Jun 18, 2018 20:57
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:There's some interesting edge effects, but no stepping at all at a 20 micron layer thickness. Man, that is really tempting for doing Epic models... $500 seems like a steal.
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Jun 18, 2018 20:59
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berzerkmonkey posted:Man, that is really tempting for doing Epic models... $500 seems like a steal. I'm really, really happy with it. If you want me to try and print something for you I'll give it a shot.
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Jun 18, 2018 21:05
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I'm really, really happy with it. If you want me to try and print something for you I'll give it a shot. Should bang out some battletech models. Seems like an easy source to get files and would look good at a small scale
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Jun 18, 2018 21:13
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Making some much needed progress on my Bloat-Drone. I'm pretty good with just stopping here for now (besides basing) until Nova is over. I have wayyy too much to catch up on right now. I was aiming to be done with 2 drones and 2 plague burst crawlers by the end of the month but I do not see that happening right now. 
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Jun 18, 2018 21:42
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is there a repository of free 3d model files for printers?
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Jun 18, 2018 23:32
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:is there a repository of free 3d model files for printers? 
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Jun 18, 2018 23:37
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Hell is painting tanks.   All done barring the company markings and heraldry. Trying to figure out here I want to put it.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:47
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Eifert Posting posted:Hell is painting tanks.  That is a very, very nice looking Predator.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:55
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Zuul the Cat posted:I'm pretty happy with how this is shaping up, but I could certainly use some constructive criticism. Having the metal that holds the coals be the same colour red as the coals looks a bit off. I'd suggest making it more black, to look like accumulated soot.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:41
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So, because it is a real pain in the rear end taking my larger models over to Northern Ireland, on a plane, to record the Let's Play Kingdom Death videos, I am painting their phoenix for them. So this is my original one.  My WIP on the new one (2 years after painting my original one), looks like this.   So this time I have gone for green feathers all over, and to get a more ethereal glow.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:44
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:is there a repository of free 3d model files for printers? Thingaverse.
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Jun 19, 2018 02:17
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Pendent posted:
It's a shame Frank predators are so much better than dakka predators, because dakka predators look way better.
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Jun 19, 2018 02:40
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Aniodia posted:For what you're getting with that set, that's actually a pretty good value. You're getting I just ordered the set, along with primer and some Gorilla Glue. The paint set won't arrive until the 27th at the latest, but the primer and glue should be here in a couple of days. At the very least, I can assemble and paint the model. I didn't order any clippers, since I figured I had some. Unfortunately, I looked at them, and I think they're too thick to try and clip the model out.  However, I was able to find an Exacto knife that's in okay condition, and while it might be a bit more work, I would think that it would work fine to get it out of the sprue. I also think I could use it to scrape the mold-lines off.  I'm not sure what I should use as a palette. I though maybe a piece of cardboard would work. I'm also wondering if the primer gives off a bad odor, and if I need to prime it or let it dry out in the shed. I'd like to do it at the desk in my bedroom otherwise. I'm also don't feel like I know how I'm supposed to use the shade. From what I've seen, the shade needs to be the same or similar to the color that you're painting. I figure with the black shade that comes with the set, I can use it on anything painted silver, but if I do it on something painted red or some brighter color, it'll come out really poorly. The irony of all this is that I wanted to try paint models for relaxation, but trying to figure out all the prep and what goes into is stressful; not because of the thread, though. In fact, I really appreciate all the help I've gotten so far. It's just trying to get everything assembled and making sure I don't mess it up horribly. Aniodia posted:Beakie helmets... Not even really into the hobby too much and already a man of taste... 1d4chan was actually how I found out about the beakie helmets. It's been a good source of info on Warhammer for me, if only because it's easier and more entertaining to read all the lore when it's distilled into snarky summaries. Mostly, I was trying to find ones that had some different looking armors, since I can't see any major differences between something like the Ultramarines versus the Blood Angels or something, other than that they might have different weapons or unmasked faces. Apart from Space Marines, there's others groups like the Inquisitors or the Sisters of Battle, or other races like the Orks or the Necrons. However, it seems like that starts to veer into more difficult, advanced stuff. The Death Guard Plague Marines were the other models they had as an introduction, but that seems like it's a lot harder to paint the details, like with the guts pouring out. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 07:48
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Max Wilco posted:Mostly, I was trying to find ones that had some different looking armors, since I can't see any major differences between something like the Ultramarines versus the Blood Angels or something, other than that they might have different weapons or unmasked faces. Apart from Space Marines, there's others groups like the Inquisitors or the Sisters of Battle, or other races like the Orks or the Necrons. However, it seems like that starts to veer into more difficult, advanced stuff. The Death Guard Plague Marines were the other models they had as an introduction, but that seems like it's a lot harder to paint the details, like with the guts pouring out. Your big problem here is mostly going to be that, if you want to venture into variant armor marks, you'll have to play around with original-flavor marines, who are even smaller than the Primaris Marine you have -- and somewhat less detailed. There's good reasons to venture into the variant armor marks anyway -- beakie marines are rad -- but just sticking to primaris is going to be simpler. With regards to the different chapters, all the chapters use all the different armor marks, like, there's no one armor variant that the Ultramarines are known for that the Blood Angels avoid. The exception is the Raven Guard, who are known for fielding larger numbers of Mark VI Corvus Armor (i.e. beakies) and stuff like the Blood Angel, Dark Angel, and Space Wolf specific sculpts -- blood angels get Sanguinary Guard and Death company, Dark Angels get hoods and robes, and Space Wolves get wolf bits stapled to them. If you look closely at the new Death Guard sculpts, you'll see they tend to be swollen-up and warped versions of older armor marks, especially the Mark II and Mark III.
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Jun 19, 2018 09:19
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The weird bloated and horrible guts spilling out is what makes painting death guard so fun tho!
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Jun 19, 2018 09:28
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If it's like older GW plastics you should be able to just snip the chunky ends off then twist the remaining sprue and detach that way. It's more hassle to clean but you don't have to try and cut too close with ill-suited nippers or dull your blade cutting through the sprue. Definitely prime out of your bedroom. Outside or in the shed is fine if the humidity isn't too high - more than say 60% is a problem, depending on how cold it is. As for a palette, when you're starting out you don't need one. This is heresy, but you can get a perfectly fine result by dipping a clean brush into the pot, wiping the excess off on the little dippy bit inside the lid or on the rim, then a quick thin by dipping in your water and a dab on a tissue. Then go straight to the mini, brush on, get a smooth layer, add a drop more water to the brush if it isn't thin enough to go smoothly. Rinse, repeat - not literally, if you haven't had any blending with other damp or wet paints. Alternatively, make a basic wet palette. Grab a shallow plastic tray - a small tupperware lid is what I use - and fill it with either sheet sponge or flannel cloth. Wet that down, just wet not soaking, it should be wet not damp to the touch but not yield any significant amount of water if you press down. Place a piece of parchment paper/baking paper on top, and you have your wet palette. As for shade, if it's a wash it should be fine, and I'm pretty sure what they're calling their 'glauerdoom shade' is just dark tone ink/dark tone wash. You can use a black wash virtually anywhere, with a few caveats. One, it will make things look high contrast, which is sometimes not what you want. Two, it will mute colours you wash it over, but so will most washes. Three, don't use it on white or pastels unless you're going for a dirty look. Washing is actually a three stage process. Base layer down and dry, wash, let the wash dry, and if you slopped it on like I do you then highlight or glaze for larger areas with the base colour again and then lighten where appropriate to compensate for the dulling. I regularly use TAP's dark tone (their black wash when it isn't branded) on a range of colours from blue to red to yellow to canvas tan. Often, you actually don't want a similar wash colour - you want a brown, a black, or a complementary but darker tone (e.g. a purple cloak can be washed with red or with blue tones to create a warmer or cooler shadow than if you washed with a darker purple or plain black, or you can use a brown on chainmail to make it look worn, a little rusty, and warm in a way a black tone won't do.)
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Jun 19, 2018 09:34
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 My first attempt at a banner. I'm pretty happy with it, especially the text, which I applied with a 005 Micron pen. I considered adding little text lines to the purity seals, but it always looked bad on the test models. I was always the worst kid in art class, so it's been fun to do this and actually be happy with something I painted for once. Just need to tidy up some paint lines here and there and apply the transfers. I know it's not display quality, but it should be fine for tabletop standard. Gunder fucked around with this message at 10:23 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 10:19
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Max Wilco posted:I just ordered the set, along with primer and some Gorilla Glue. The paint set won't arrive until the 27th at the latest, but the primer and glue should be here in a couple of days. At the very least, I can assemble and paint the model. I'd recommend using the clippers to them off the sprue and then trimming away however much excess is left with the exacto knife. This probably isn't a big problem with push-fit Space Marines, but with a knife you're only applying pressure to the part you're trying to cut to one side of the plastic, so the force can get distributed along the model and snap fragile parts. ...although yeah wow, those clippers are huge. You should be able to get a small pair of side cutters/diagonal cutters for, like, 4 bucks at walmart or lowes or whatever. Getting some deluxe $20 hobby clippers is totally unnecessary.
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Jun 19, 2018 11:32
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When you say Gorilla Glue is it their normal Gorilla Glue or some version of cyanoacrylate that they make? The normal Gorilla Glue expands a lot during drying and I see that causing all sorts of problems.
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Jun 19, 2018 13:06
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I'm really, really happy with it. If you want me to try and print something for you I'll give it a shot. I may take you up on that - thanks.
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Jun 19, 2018 13:08
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Never use real Gorilla Glue. They do make Gorilla brand Super Glue (cyanoacrylate). I prefer Loctite Control Gel for super glue, and Revell Contacta Professional or Tamiya Extra Thin for plastics.
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Jun 19, 2018 13:20
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Gunder posted:
The text in the middle looks fine (the "T" is a little squashed, but that's probably fine when you're not like, 3 inches away from the model). I definitely agree with tidying up the lines, though, because there's a few spots where it's pretty apparent (pretty much all of the gold trim on the banner has issues). I don't have that particular model, so I'm not sure if the gold trim is just freehand or actually sculpted on. If it is sculpted, I'd suggest using the side of the brush instead of the point, so that way you catch the trim without hitting the rest of the model. Depending upon the gold you're using, it probably wouldn't hurt to do two thin coats either, as some golds can be pretty translucent after drying. Outside of that, I'd go back over the yellow on the bottom quartered area as well as all the white near the top because it's still a little transparent, and maybe drop a wash onto the leaves, but for tabletop quality that's not too bad. In other news, if I have to drill another unit of Warmaster spearmen and replace their spears (about 29 dudes 10mm tall with a #75 drill bit), it will be all too soon. I've gotten three units done already, and as much as I want another unit to convert to Lothern Sea Guard, I really just don't even want to look at my pin vice for a while. I do really like Eureka Mini's Elf Reavers for White Lions of Chrace, though, and would definitely recommend them if people want to get into Warmaster High Elves.   
Aniodia fucked around with this message at 02:45 on Jun 20, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 16:27
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When edge highlighting, remember it’s not just because you’re painting the edges, it’s because you use the edge of the brush to do it.
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Jun 19, 2018 16:31
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