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Nope, just a furnace. Could be more waste that was tossed under there, though, that just has water dripping off it. I have a foundation guy coming around on Saturday though so hopefully he has some insight. Worst case scenario I guess is hammering through the concrete slab above the pipe.
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Jun 21, 2018 02:36
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just another posted:Nope, just a furnace. Could be more waste that was tossed under there, though, that just has water dripping off it. I have a foundation guy coming around on Saturday though so hopefully he has some insight. Is it a high efficiency furnace? Those produce condensate as well. Do you have a humidifier?
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Jun 21, 2018 03:46
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Nope to both. Just double checked there were no drains going into the ground other than the line in and sewage out. I spoke to the next door neighbour earlier tonight and he said he thinks the bedrock just sheds water continuously in our area, even on sunny days. In that case I don't know what can be done in the crawlspace other than a french drain or similar. I don't have the funds, and I doubt there's the expertise in the area, to lift the house to cap it. How likely am I to harm the concrete pier & beam foundation if I try to excavate some of the soil mound in the crawl space? It'd be easier to lay a vapour barrier if the ground in there were more flat.
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Jun 21, 2018 05:42
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A vapor barrier can keep moisture from emanating from the soil and is probably a good idea to do (especially if you live in a radon area) but that doesn’t seem like it would solve your immediate problem. I have a sealed dirt crawl space under part of my house and the soil under the vapor barrier is definitely damp, but not as damp as what you’ve got there from the looks of it. I’d focus on that pipe and figure out where it leads. If it’s dripping you’ve got a problem of some sort somewhere imo. As for general moisture maintenance not related to that pipe, I think you want to focus on the outside of your house first. Do you have downspout extensions on? How long are they? Can you divert water from the high side of your lot around the house and down the rest of the hill? If you’re thinking about a French drain I’d think about installing one outside of your foundation. Allowing any kind of moisture in the crawl space is bad times, even if a French drain carries it out of there.
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Jun 22, 2018 04:40
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I'm throwing around the idea of building a 10x20 two bedroom building at my lake cabin for more sleeping space. I want to keep things as simple and straightforward as possible. Ideally a pier and beam foundation on top of concrete pier blocks. I was thinking 2x6, but maybe I should go 2x8? I think I figured a 4x4 post every 3' on pier blocks. Is this a horrible idea? I have plenty of building experience, just not so much with a foundation.
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Jun 22, 2018 15:54
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stupid puma posted:A vapor barrier can keep moisture from emanating from the soil and is probably a good idea to do (especially if you live in a radon area) but that doesn’t seem like it would solve your immediate problem. I have a sealed dirt crawl space under part of my house and the soil under the vapor barrier is definitely damp, but not as damp as what you’ve got there from the looks of it. I’d focus on that pipe and figure out where it leads. If it’s dripping you’ve got a problem of some sort somewhere imo. I'm not sure what my options are for diverting the water tbh. The downspouts are already depositing the water either onto the street or down into the backyard behind the house. I think the most I could do to control water on that side, besides the gutters and downspouts, are storm drains. I'd be going into bedrock to do anything deeper than that. OTOH, it was sunny the past week so they wouldn't have helped the current situation. The crawlspace right now is a result of either water from the leaky fire hose flowing between the bedrock and slab and into the crawl space (meaning that this will happen whenever it rains, too), or it's from that leaky pipe (or others) in the crawlspace somewhere. Or both. Or something else I'm not considering. But I don't think it's a typical poor drainage situation like you might have in a suburb or on flat ground. wandler20 posted:Ideally a pier and beam foundation on top of concrete pier blocks. I was thinking 2x6, but maybe I should go 2x8? I think I figured a 4x4 post every 3' on pier blocks..
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Jun 22, 2018 17:40
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If you have a professional coming this weekend he's going to give you way more solid advice than any of us can, especially since he will be on site and know the area. I would say the best thing would be to not worry too much about figuring out a solution yourself, rather think about what questions you want to ask to make the most of his expertise and time while you've got it.
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Jun 22, 2018 17:52
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True enough. Just a new home owner & all revved up on doing things.
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Jun 22, 2018 21:18
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Has anyone here worked with mounting on shiplap? We have ~110 year old home and most of the walls are drywall over shiplap - so not sure where studs actually sit. Has anyone here installed a TV or AV equipment in a similar environment? What's the best way to do this to have a nice clean look with a mounted TV....in a home that was built 40 years before the TV was adopted by the masses.
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Jun 24, 2018 23:10
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I've installed speakers and shelving onto shiplap with drywall on top. I just treat it like I'm going into the framing and it's worked so far. Don't PM me when your TV falls off the wall though.
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Jun 24, 2018 23:48
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tangy yet delightful posted:I've installed speakers and shelving onto shiplap with drywall on top. I just treat it like I'm going into the framing and it's worked so far. Don't PM me when your TV falls off the wall though. Hah - how did you run your cables through?
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Jun 25, 2018 00:02
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Sab0921 posted:Hah - how did you run your cables through? You're gonna need to make some test holes. Behind where the TV will be is a good spot. Also, you get to cheat if there is an outlet below that. Basically you need to figure out where there is a stud bay, and a stud finder ain't gonna help. If there is an outlet it's either to the right or left of the stud, so you PROBABLY have 16" between it. That's where you want to install your low volt rings for the cable brush plates or whatever you plan on using. I like these a lot: https://www.amazon.com/PowerBridge-...+extension+cord
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Jun 25, 2018 02:50
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Sab0921 posted:Hah - how did you run your cables through? Oh yeah the speakers I mounted were upgrades to previous owner speakers so while I had to do new mounts I just connected to the old wiring. So I cheated, sorry!
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Jun 25, 2018 02:58
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tangy yet delightful posted:I've installed speakers and shelving onto shiplap with drywall on top. I just treat it like I'm going into the framing and it's worked so far. Don't PM me when your TV falls off the wall though. Not trying to be pedantic, but are we talking about actual shiplap or just lath? If actual shiplap, yeah, I'd mount the tv anywhere I wanted, studs be damned. Lath is a way different story.
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Jun 25, 2018 13:23
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Slugworth posted:Not trying to be pedantic, but are we talking about actual shiplap or just lath? If actual shiplap, yeah, I'd mount the tv anywhere I wanted, studs be damned. Lath is a way different story. You know what - I have no idea - I bought the house after it was renovated - and did not do the work myself - have no idea if it's Lath or real Shiplap or whatever.
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Jun 25, 2018 17:59
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Slugworth posted:Not trying to be pedantic, but are we talking about actual shiplap or just lath? If actual shiplap, yeah, I'd mount the tv anywhere I wanted, studs be damned. Lath is a way different story. My house is specifically shiplap. I had to cut some outlet boxes so was able to see the actual interior wall construction. But it's a good point to bring up.
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Jun 26, 2018 01:35
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Has anyone had to have foundation parging redone? I have a cinderblock foundation with a skimcoat of either stucco or something else. I’m in the process of chipping off loose pieces to make the reapplication process easier. I really have no interest in tackling this diy aside from prepping the walls.
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Jun 27, 2018 02:54
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Has anyone had to have foundation parging redone? "Now parge the lathe!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jYPp9w-0Uk
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Jun 28, 2018 16:37
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I need to repave my driveway in the Boston area, so I figure since I'm ripping the thing up anyway, I'd better look in to snow melting options since I have kinda useless renters here that would freak out if they got snowed in. Electric snow melting is cheap for a single car slot (around $2000 in materials), but if I want to do the whole driveway it scales up to around $8000 in materials (mostly the cables) and probably needs an expensive electrical service upgrade, plus the electric bill would be pretty crazy. PEX tubing for a full driveway run is much cheaper than the 240v electrical snow melt cable ($50 for 300 feet of PEX, $800 for 300 feet of snow melt cable), so I guess I'd just need to figure out something to circulate gas-heated anti-freeze in a loop. Is there any kind of all-in-one solution for that, if I'm handy on a technical level? Has anyone here done a snow melt system? Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 21:35
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Zero VGS posted:PEX tubing for a full driveway run is much cheaper than the 240v electrical snow melt cable ($50 for 300 feet of PEX, $800 for 300 feet of snow melt cable), so I guess I'd just need to figure out something to circulate gas-heated anti-freeze in a loop. Is there any kind of all-in-one solution for that, if I'm handy on a technical level? Has anyone here done a snow melt system? I'm not in a country where heated driveways are much of a thing, but could you use an underfloor heating manifold? I'd also be surprised if such manifolds aren't available with specific driveway use in mind. If it's a similar approach to UFH, you're going to want a decent manifold pump, a manifold with enough loops for however many zones you want, a bunch of piping (usually not just normal PEX, it tends to be metal-lined and anti-kink), and some way to heat your fluid. In my case it's just water from the house's main boiler, if you want to run anti-freeze I guess you need another solution for that, some kind of heat exchanger? Plugging everything together isn't too hard but getting all the flows right isn't the most straight forward thing so you probably want to involve a professional at least in an advisory capacity.
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Jun 28, 2018 22:40
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm not in a country where heated driveways are much of a thing, but could you use an underfloor heating manifold? I'd also be surprised if such manifolds aren't available with specific driveway use in mind. Hmm... thank you but maybe forget I said anything; the more I look into this, the more I'm thinking I can pay a kid $100 to shovel every time it snows and never catch up to the cost of a heated driveway.
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Jun 28, 2018 23:32
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Hose/sprinkler with hot water?
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Jun 28, 2018 23:49
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peanut posted:Hose/sprinkler with hot water? Only if you want to make your driveway into a slip n' slide of ice 
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Jun 29, 2018 00:35
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Flame thrower. Always the answer. Also, can’t you just give the tenants a shovel and if they are too lazy or old have them pay someone to shovel?
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Jun 29, 2018 01:07
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Zero VGS posted:I need to repave my driveway in the Boston area, so I figure since I'm ripping the thing up anyway, I'd better look in to snow melting options since I have kinda useless renters here that would freak out if they got snowed in. That crazy dude that made his own system admitted it's primarily for safety and convenience and not economical. It also doesn't seem very idiot proof as he has to carefully raise and lower the temp of the slab to avoid cracking. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6evRox3F_XY
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Jun 29, 2018 03:38
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Dustoph posted:Also, can’t you just give the tenants a shovel and if they are too lazy or old have them pay someone to shovel? I'm pretty sure it's my responsibility since it's my property. If the tenants slip on ice they can sue me, and they have waaay more money than me so that wouldn't end well. Edit: Yeah, since 2013 in MA http://massrealestatelawblog.com/2012/12/30/break-out-the-shovels-and-ice-melt-new-massachusetts-mandatory-snow-and-ice-removal-law/ Zero VGS fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Jun 29, 2018 |
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Jun 29, 2018 04:20
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Is there a homesteading / permaculture thread?
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Jun 29, 2018 04:28
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Probably not. Just post, buddy! 
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Jun 29, 2018 04:44
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Any lawn service will have snow removal. Look into them.
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Jun 29, 2018 10:23
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A MIRACLE posted:Is there a homesteading / permaculture thread? Perhaps you should start your own! [irony] There is a veggie gardening thread that would probably be worth hitting up too.
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Jun 29, 2018 15:30
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I've got my home gym and workshop in my garage, which is at the end of the garden and detached from the house. Right now it's just concrete blocks/poured floor and a wooden/felt roof. My long term goal is to get an epoxy coating on the floor and baton out/panel the walls and make it much more pleasant, but in the meantime the spiders are taking over. I'm not particularly squeamish but my squat rack is covered in webs constantly and the eaves are just a mess of webs and dead bugs. Is it feasible to set off some kind of bug bomb? When I get it 'finished' am I going to still have this problem or are the spiders going to chill in the voids? Btw I'm in south East England so just daddy long legs and house spiders, nothing dangerous. Cheers!
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Jun 30, 2018 12:16
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Spider go where the flies are easy to catch. Remove the prey and they'll die off? *obligatory Aragog and/or forbidden forest joke*
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Jul 1, 2018 02:32
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I was going to say open a hole in the roof to get some birds nesting in there
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Jul 1, 2018 02:44
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Direct question for cakesmith handyman, we got into oven & hob chat in the interior design thread and you posited based on your work that domino hobs plus two matching ovens wind up better than a range. Could you elucidate further on why that is?
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Jul 1, 2018 08:35
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Southern Heel posted:I've got my home gym and workshop in my garage, which is at the end of the garden and detached from the house. Right now it's just concrete blocks/poured floor and a wooden/felt roof. My long term goal is to get an epoxy coating on the floor and baton out/panel the walls and make it much more pleasant, but in the meantime the spiders are taking over. Don appropriate PPE (I'd go for long sleeves and a hat) and go crazy on the roof and eaves with your vacuum and a floor brush It takes a long time for that many cobwebs to build up. Once you get it clean it isn't hard to keep it relatively web and bug free.
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Jul 1, 2018 11:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:Direct question for cakesmith handyman, we got into oven & hob chat in the interior design thread and you posited based on your work that domino hobs plus two matching ovens wind up better than a range. Could you elucidate further on why that is? Okay so if I had 120cm of space I wanted to fill with cooker, I'd first off prefer two full sized multi function ovens because they can be either grill, fan, convection, whereas a range typically has one of each. For hobs I find big ranges often come with too many burners but never quite what you'd have if you could choose, so go Domino's and choose. I'd have a gas wok burner in the middle, twin gas burner on one side, dual zone induction on the other. Now you can either build this lot into your kitchen as normal or into a freestanding dedicated unit as a proto-range, your choice. Finally when part of your expensive range breaks good luck getting parts, it's a sad truth that after sales support for white goods is pathetic. Instead when part of your system breaks it won't stop you using the rest and you can just replace whatever component failed. Now the keen-eyed amongst you will have spotted all your components have different knobs, oh no, my OCD! But wait, 99% of what's available will use the same size D-shaft fitting, so just buy a set of knobs you like the look of and fit them to everything. Now at the end we've come in a comparable price to a decent range, but with flexibility to change part if your usage changes, and greater maintainability.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:55
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cakesmith handyman posted:For hobs I find big ranges often come with too many burners but never quite what you'd have if you could choose, so go Domino's and choose. I'd have a gas wok burner in the middle, twin gas burner on one side, dual zone induction on the other. That was my thoughts too. I don't think I'd use the large burner enough to warrant it being in the middle, but it might provide a decent gap for handles on the ones I do use. Or the induction can go in the middle for some visual separation. Being able to mix gas and induction is a strong positive of the approach, for sure. Very glad I put a gas feed to the location just in case. cakesmith handyman posted:Okay so if I had 120cm of space I wanted to fill with cooker, I'd first off prefer two full sized multi function ovens because they can be either grill, fan, convection, whereas a range typically has one of each. Makes sense. cakesmith handyman posted:Now the keen-eyed amongst you will have spotted all your components have different knobs, oh no, my OCD! But wait, 99% of what's available will use the same size D-shaft fitting, so just buy a set of knobs you like the look of and fit them to everything. I don't really care about this much, the controls will be in different planes for the different units anyway.
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Jul 1, 2018 15:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:That was my thoughts too. I don't think I'd use the large burner enough to warrant it being in the middle, but it might provide a decent gap for handles on the ones I do use. Or the induction can go in the middle for some visual separation. I put the wok burner in the middle for handle separation, if I'm using it there's generally no other pan around. And you'll get three different knob types with your three different hobs, but it might not bother you.
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Jul 1, 2018 15:12
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cakesmith handyman posted:I put the wok burner in the middle for handle separation, if I'm using it there's generally no other pan around. They may have changed since you last looked at them, but based on the photos the two gas hobs have the same knobs and the induction is touch sensitive.
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Jul 1, 2018 15:32
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Probably, I might have matched up different brands as well. Now if I could just find the manufacture of freestanding stainless steel kitchen units I thought I had bookmarked, I think I was looking at about £300 for a SS face frame unit built for 2 single ovens...
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Jul 1, 2018 15:41
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