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grassy gnoll posted:Would VGC 72.025, Foul Green work for you? Thanks but this is too dark. Groetgaffel posted:Gauss Blaster green perhaps? hmmmm I'll have to see it in real life but... ...do I dare give GM money?
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Jun 27, 2018 21:18
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Cat Face Joe posted:Thanks but this is too dark. I have a pot of it, I can try to photo it for you later
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Jun 27, 2018 22:08
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Booley posted:Ham shots Booley, what technical info can you give me (f-stop, distance from model, zoom, etc)? I always have a hard time getting everything on my models in focus. When not taking a quick shot with my phone I mostly use a 28-75mm Tamron lens, f/5.6, and shoot about 2 feet from the model. I know I should probably back up some more, but I'm not sure how to catch all the details like your shots.
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Jun 27, 2018 22:17
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You need to crank the f-stop up to f/11 or higher, ideally like f/15 or more if you can get enough light
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Jun 27, 2018 22:31
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Fake James posted:Booley, what technical info can you give me (f-stop, distance from model, zoom, etc)? I always have a hard time getting everything on my models in focus. When not taking a quick shot with my phone I mostly use a 28-75mm Tamron lens, f/5.6, and shoot about 2 feet from the model. I know I should probably back up some more, but I'm not sure how to catch all the details like your shots. So on the camera shots I'm at 100mm on a fullframe sensor (you're likely on aps-c, so multiply your focal length by 1.5 for nikon/sony or 1.6 for canon), at f/16. Camera is usually 2-3 feet back. That'll typically get a full single infantry dude in. Any of my bigger models I'm focus stacking, so I shoot at f/8 or f/11
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Jun 27, 2018 22:45
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General Olloth posted:I have a pot of it, I can try to photo it for you later Yeah, sure. I would appreciate that.
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Jun 27, 2018 22:51
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Cat Face Joe posted:
Nah, Reaper MSP Surf Aqua is what you want. http://www.reapermini.com/Paints/corecolors
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Jun 28, 2018 00:30
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Cat Face Joe posted:Yeah, sure. I would appreciate that.    There is the three closest GW colors I can see. I have literally all GW paints so just ask if there is another you want to see. Hopefully the reference color wheel in the photo helps you gauge close to in person.
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Jun 28, 2018 01:04
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Booley posted:So on the camera shots I'm at 100mm on a fullframe sensor (you're likely on aps-c, so multiply your focal length by 1.5 for nikon/sony or 1.6 for canon), at f/16. Camera is usually 2-3 feet back. That'll typically get a full single infantry dude in. Any of my bigger models I'm focus stacking, so I shoot at f/8 or f/11 I'm using full frame (D600) so I can luckily copy your method straight on. Thank you!
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Jun 28, 2018 01:18
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Booley posted:So on the camera shots I'm at 100mm on a fullframe sensor (you're likely on aps-c, so multiply your focal length by 1.5 for nikon/sony or 1.6 for canon), at f/16. Camera is usually 2-3 feet back. That'll typically get a full single infantry dude in. Any of my bigger models I'm focus stacking, so I shoot at f/8 or f/11 What distances do you expect for a cellphone? I have a Pixel2.
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Jun 28, 2018 01:45
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What distances do you expect for a cellphone? I have a Pixel2. Uhh, whatever distance will let you get reasonable resolution on the model. I'd say I had it about 6" away maybe? You'll probably need to accept not getting everything in focus and having good resolution at the same time, play around until you find a happy middle.
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Jun 28, 2018 02:40
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Silhouette posted:Nah, Reaper MSP Surf Aqua is what you want. http://www.reapermini.com/Paints/corecolors I have that and its not very green. The gauss green seems more like what seafoam green is supposed to be.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:42
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Does anyone happen to know why none of the painting guides that GW have appear to ever want you to use their white base paint called Ceramite? Even the guides for painting pure white seem to start with a light grey and layer up in brightness with lighter and lighter greys. What’s the painting reason for starting with greys rather than a white?
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Jun 28, 2018 03:51
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bonds0097 posted:I have that and its not very green. The gauss green seems more like what seafoam green is supposed to be. Pale lichen is another decent one on the greenier end
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Jun 28, 2018 03:51
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Gunder posted:Does anyone happen to know why none of the painting guides that GW have appear to ever want you to use their white base paint called Ceramite? Even the guides for painting pure white seem to start with a light grey and layer up in brightness with lighter and lighter greys. What’s the painting reason for starting with greys rather than a white? Greys generally have better coverage than whites, so it's easier to lay down the basecoat.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:52
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Gunder posted:Does anyone happen to know why none of the painting guides that GW have appear to ever want you to use their white base paint called Ceramite? Even the guides for painting pure white seem to start with a light grey and layer up in brightness with lighter and lighter greys. What’s the painting reason for starting with greys rather than a white? In addition to grey having better coverage, you can't highlight pure white, so it often looks sharper when using an almost-white.
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Jun 28, 2018 04:11
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Texmo posted:In addition to grey having better coverage, you can't highlight pure white, so it often looks sharper when using an almost-white. Same reason why you would go for a German Grey over a pure black. Work on Saga terrain going well, found a great Canoness model and a great starting miniature for a damned Elam, nothing really picworthy so here's an imperial knight, he's armed with two Powerful Swords 
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Jun 28, 2018 04:26
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Going with red instead of white on the cloak really did wonders.   
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Jun 28, 2018 06:16
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Yeah, the red looks so much better. Great job.
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Jun 28, 2018 06:54
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Hell yeah! The red works great!
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Jun 28, 2018 11:36
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Dang, that seems to be the stuff. My first GW pot, wow. Thanks for your help. Silhouette posted:Nah, Reaper MSP Surf Aqua is what you want. http://www.reapermini.com/Paints/corecolors Too blue unfortunately.
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Jun 28, 2018 14:47
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Reaper's Spectral Glow or Copper Verdigris are more green. Or Vallejo's various flavors of verdigris for that matter, though some are more of a glaze (the bottle I have is still fairly paint-like).
darnon fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 14:54
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Cat Face Joe posted:Dang, that seems to be the stuff. My first GW pot, wow. Thanks for your help. Glad I could help!
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Jun 28, 2018 15:51
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So i bought two citadel pots of gold paint a couple months ago, and do these things just go bad sometimes? Both of them, the pigment completely separates from the medium overnight, to the point where i think i'm getting tennis elbow trying to thrash them back into shape. On the gehenna gold, the coverage is bad, but at least i can layer it in five or six coats without losing too much detail (and this is regardless of under layer, it's the same on black, medium grey, or smurf blue). The Auric gold, if i so much as touch the brush to water to thin it, it turns into more of a glittery glaze than a paint; even straight from the pot it took three layers to get coverage on the highlights of a little skull, by which point it was just a lumpy gold ball.
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Jun 28, 2018 16:17
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darnon posted:Copper Verdigris I like this and will probably get it as well. General Olloth posted:Glad I could help!   
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Jun 28, 2018 16:24
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Ceebees posted:So i bought two citadel pots of gold paint a couple months ago, and do these things just go bad sometimes? Both of them, the pigment completely separates from the medium overnight, to the point where i think i'm getting tennis elbow trying to thrash them back into shape. On the gehenna gold, the coverage is bad, but at least i can layer it in five or six coats without losing too much detail (and this is regardless of under layer, it's the same on black, medium grey, or smurf blue). The Auric gold, if i so much as touch the brush to water to thin it, it turns into more of a glittery glaze than a paint; even straight from the pot it took three layers to get coverage on the highlights of a little skull, by which point it was just a lumpy gold ball. That's been my experience as well. The only citadel gold I've used that worked decently was the balthasar gold. I recently got a pot of vallejo liquid gold, and while it's kind of a pain to mix up and use, it goes on great and looks amazing.
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Jun 28, 2018 16:56
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June has been a very productive month.             And a family photo: 
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Jun 28, 2018 18:04
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SRM posted:June has been a very productive month. drat dude, I think those are even higher than your already impressive standard. You really nailed that inner panel lining on the recessed blue parts.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:25
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Booyah- posted:drat dude, I think those are even higher than your already impressive standard. You really nailed that inner panel lining on the recessed blue parts. Thanks! I think I'm going to push the blue more on my next Knight since it's a lot easier to work with than the yellow.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:30
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SRM posted:Thanks! I think I'm going to push the blue more on my next Knight since it's a lot easier to work with than the yellow. Are those GW paints for the blue? I'm curious what you used
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Jun 28, 2018 18:31
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Booyah- posted:Are those GW paints for the blue? I'm curious what you used Army Painter Crystal Blue, Drakenhof Nightshade pin wash, then Lothern Blue and Fenrisian Grey for the highlights. Same scheme I use for my retro Ultras, which is how I knew it would look good with yellow: 
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Jun 28, 2018 18:36
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Well, that was a sudden and terrifying flashback to 1996.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:59
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Gunder posted:Does anyone happen to know why none of the painting guides that GW have appear to ever want you to use their white base paint called Ceramite? Even the guides for painting pure white seem to start with a light grey and layer up in brightness with lighter and lighter greys. What’s the painting reason for starting with greys rather than a white? As others said, you can't highlight pure white, which ends up with models like this which are a bit poo poo and flat. If you did the bulk of that with Ulthuan or whatever and then highlighted pure white on the edges it'd look a lot better. 
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Jun 28, 2018 20:36
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Also, pure white is a bugger to paint.
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Jun 28, 2018 20:38
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My W&N 7 brushes are leaving me a bit unimpressed. They tend to hold a point for one or two strokes before splitting, then I'll either need to rinse and reform the tip or continue with a frayed brush. I've ordered some W&N Brush Cleaner/Restorer to see if it fix up the problem, but is there a brand of synthetic brushes anyone recommends? I've only ever used my W&N brushes and want to try something other than sable for comparison's sake.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:16
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Weathering questions: when using hairspray/chipping medium, how do you stop additional chipping from happening unintentionally later on? Is the medium only "active" for a certain period of time or what? Secondly, let's say I'm painting a Death Company dreadnought, which fluff-wise is supposed to be a former Blood Angels (i.e. red) robot that has been painted black. What's the best way to achieve the effect of battle damage on the black armor exposing weathered red armor underneath? Could I do two rounds of chipping for that? I'm imagining it would be something like rust color paint-> chipping medium -> red paint -> chip the paint -> chipping medium -> black paint -> chip the paint again.
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 21:20
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Don't use synthetic brushes. They are almost universally garbage. The tips will curl and fray, and you'll end up spending more money replacing them every few weeks/months than you would by just buying a decent natural-fiber brush.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:20
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About the only thing I'd bother using synthetic brushes for is liquid putties. I'm not using my W&Ns on that poo poo.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:27
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My W&N #1 is starting to show its age as well. I'm thinking of trying Raphael 8404 next just to see if there's a meaningful difference. Broken toad looks good but I can't find their #1 in the states
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Jun 28, 2018 21:30
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You can get a pack of 10 beater synthetics for like 3 bucks anywhere paint brushes are sold which are pretty great for some purposes.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:35
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