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Tai-Pan posted:Car: 1973 Datsun 240z You getting 12V to the coil? JUST MAKING CHILI posted:1974 Chevy truck with the 350 small block. Ya seals dry out; there's usually a weep hole under the pump housing just behind where the sadt exits the housing (it's part of the front half of the pump). It can let go & leak pretty good. New pump. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 02:57
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looking at buying a texas car and I'm in MN. Going to fly down and check it out after I get the ok from the lemon inspection squad, but how is the title transfered? Do i just get a notary pulbic to sign off on a title transfer sheet or do I need to go to a texas DMV with the owner?
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Jun 28, 2018 03:01
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stgdz posted:looking at buying a texas car and I'm in MN. If you're buying from a dealer, they should be able to get you MN title and tags directly. Otherwise, contact your own DMV and ask them how to handle it.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:16
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stgdz posted:looking at buying a texas car and I'm in MN. I'm in Texas so I can tell you how it's done here. Have the owner (or yourself) print out a bill of sale. This is just for your records, and his. The DMV won't need it, but it's good to have. Both of you fill it out, and sign it; they're availlable online for free just google it. To transfer a title in Texas, all you need to do is sign the title over to the new owner of the vehicle. There is no notary required. You do not need to go to the DMV. It sounds like you're just going to fly down here, both sign a bill of sale, and both sign the title. After that, all the title transfer requirements, state sales tax requirements, and registration requirements fall under Minnesota's state laws; because that is where you will be registering the car.
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Jun 28, 2018 03:38
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stgdz posted:looking at buying a texas car and I'm in MN. Like Dennis mentioned, Texas is pretty lax if it's private party. Make sure you get a bill of sale though, and that both of you (a) sign it and (b) keep a copy. All the bill of sale really has to list is the date of sale, VIN, seller, buyer, mileage, signatures, and amount paid. If MN requires a notary, then it wouldn't hurt to get the bill of sale notarized. Texas allows a private party seller to decide what to do with the plates - they can give them to you (and file a form with our DMV reporting the car has been sold with the plates, but not many people do), or keep them. Either way, I would strongly suggest going here and figuring out which permit would be the best for you. If you print a permit from there, use a laser printer, not inkjet, if you're gonna have it where the plate normally goes, and put it in some kind of plastic sleeve/laminate it. If you have a temporary permit, at least you'll have something proving you've purchased it in good faith (on top of the bill of sale + title) if you get pulled over. If you're buying from a dealer, they're supposed to either give you a temporary permit + title for out of state buyers, or handle everything for you (but you still get a temp tag if they do that). Any decent dealer will handle everything. We also require a vehicle inspection be done in the 90 days before a vehicle gets sold by a dealer; most of TX is safety-only, but the major metro areas, except for San Antonio and Waco, require emissions on <25 yr old vehicles too. I'm not sure what MN requires, but if they do require an inspection, they might accept a TX inspection report instead of making you pay for another inspection (go here with the VIN to see the last decade or so of inspections on it - our safety is just lights/brakes/horn/seat belts/tires, but you'll at least get a little bit of an idea if it was maintained). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:55 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 08:48
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TheReverend posted:I'm renting a car for a trip. I've rented a car maybe a dozen times in the past decade, so it's not like I have huge experience, but I have NEVER been given the vehicle I expected or asked for. I rented from Sixt once, in Tampa, Florida, about four years ago. They successfully convinced me to "upgrade" to the convertible, a 2014 Camaro drop-top (with the V6 because rental). I am very interested in hearing about your trip once you pick up your car. I want to be surprised, and find out they gave you what you asked for. Fake edit: for the California coast, get a convertible. That Camaro was, by a large margin, the single most ridiculous thing I've ever been responsible for, but no roof = good.
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Jun 28, 2018 14:08
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Mn has no inspections that I know of. Emissions was tossed out a decade or so ago.
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Jun 28, 2018 14:15
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Finally did the oil change this morning before work. My commute is 15 min with 8-10 speed bumps and my engine didn’t blow up, so I guess everything is okay?  The actual process was even easier than I expected. I probably overtightened the drain plug and filter though: I applied constant pressure on the plug with a wrench until it stopped, then gave it another tiny push, and the oil filter was tightened by hand as much as I could. There didn’t appear to be a washer on the drain plug when I removed it. Yes I triple checked the receptacle, no it didn’t fall into my oil pan. My 1300 mile round trip begins this afternoon. I guess if I don’t see any oil under my car when I head out, that’s as good a sign as any that things went fine. I did put a giant gash on my nice dresser when I brought in the jack stands though. 
Josh Lyman fucked around with this message at 16:05 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 15:35
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I drive a 2005-built Isuzu NPR truck for work. The air conditioning has never worked in the two years I've had it. The air blows out just fine but is not cold. The mechanic we have is entirely useless and refuses to fix anyone's AC because he thinks it's a luxury. How feasible is it for me to go to a pull-a-part, or eBay, or whatever, and get it fixed myself? Engine is RJS/4HK1 if it makes a difference. I am not mechanically minded but I can follow instructions or a video. Some cursory googling lead me to air compressors, ranging from $45 on eBay to $125 at AutoZone. Edit: The heater worked fine over the winter, if that's important to know. Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 16:02
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Josh Lyman posted:Finally did the oil change this morning before work. My commute is 15 min with 8-10 speed bumps and my engine didn’t blow up, so I guess everything is okay? Most drain plugs are pretty resilient, but be careful over tightening by too much. If for no other reason than it can be a real pita to get off next time. And just check the dipstick before you head out, and when you stop for gas. As long as that look good, congratulations!
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Jun 28, 2018 16:15
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Fo3 posted:12v to the coil while cranking? (or 7v from resistor while cranking?) -ve to coil continuity test to -ve of battery for ground problems. Could be something like a missing or broken earth lead from engine to chassis. Update: I jumped the + on the battery to the + on the coil and I got spark! Soooo, this means I have narrowed it down to one of like 40 problems. It could be that, under load, the resistor is crapping out. Which would be REALLY strange, but possible. I can just throw a new one on there and see what happens. It could mean, that the start-circuit does, in fact, exist somewhere and screwing things up. Or there is some other grounding issue. Blargh.
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Jun 28, 2018 17:42
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I drive a 2005-built Isuzu NPR truck for work. The air conditioning has never worked in the two years I've had it. The air blows out just fine but is not cold. The mechanic we have is entirely useless and refuses to fix anyone's AC because he thinks it's a luxury. How feasible is it for me to go to a pull-a-part, or eBay, or whatever, and get it fixed myself? Have you tried refilling it yet? There is a 90% chance that is your problem. You can just go to your local Autozone and buy a recharge kit for R-134s. You attach the hose to the low-side pressure port and let it refill the system. Those stupid cans used to be about $15 dollars but now they are $40 for some reason. Its highly probable that you have a slow leak somewhere too, but its easier to refill it every year or so than fixing it properly.
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Jun 28, 2018 17:45
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Tai-Pan posted:Have you tried refilling it yet? There is a 90% chance that is your problem. You can just go to your local Autozone and buy a recharge kit for R-134s. You attach the hose to the low-side pressure port and let it refill the system. Those stupid cans used to be about $15 dollars but now they are $40 for some reason. Its highly probable that you have a slow leak somewhere too, but its easier to refill it every year or so than fixing it properly. Yeah do this. I have a 91 Prado that the AC didn't work but the system was still under vacuum. Refilled it and what do you know it works perfectly now. In my case it's still an old R12 system but that doesn't matter much besides the fact that I had a lot more time for the R12 to defuse out the hoses. Also that mechanic is a moron and should be sacked because he obviously doesn't know poo poo about AC and is hiding his ignorance. The R134 is going up in cost because there is going to be a change over to a new refrigerant soon, turns out R134 is actually bad for the environment! Can always look into using computer duster.
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Jun 28, 2018 18:36
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I bought a can of the R-134a and a hose to go with it. I'll have to check the low pressure hose when I try it to make sure, because I can't find any information about this specific truck and whether it is 134 or the 12. There are numerous reasons the mechanic should have been sacked years ago and I'm forced to assume he's blackmailing the owner, who also doesn't like him. Edit: Got the refrigerant into the system. Air doesn't feel any cooler. Cleaned the ac filter which looked like it's never been touched. I only used a 12 oz can and the sticker says 1.32 pounds, surely that wouldn't make a difference? I can't tell if the air is cooler than usual or if it's just the act of air blowing that makes it cooler. Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jun 28, 2018 |
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Jun 28, 2018 19:05
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I bought a can of the R-134a and a hose to go with it. I'll have to check the low pressure hose when I try it to make sure, because I can't find any information about this specific truck and whether it is 134 or the 12. Your truck absolutely is 134 so no worries there, they stopped R12 use in new cars in 1994. Does your compressor kick on at all? Like when you flip it on you should hear and feel the engine compensate.
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Jun 28, 2018 20:44
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It should have a sticker under the hood with the refrigerant type. But yeah it'll be 134a
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Jun 28, 2018 20:53
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KakerMix posted:Your truck absolutely is 134 so no worries there, they stopped R12 use in new cars in 1994. I'm not feeling or hearing any noticeable change.
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Jun 28, 2018 20:59
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I'm not feeling or hearing any noticeable change. I mighta missed this, but can you see the compressor clutch do its thing when you hit the button?
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Jun 28, 2018 21:12
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scuz posted:I mighta missed this, but can you see the compressor clutch do its thing when you hit the button? I don't even know where it would be to look.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:16
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I don't even know where it would be to look.  I'm p sure that oughta be spinning once you hit that button. If not, check this video on how to diagnose whether the clutch is working.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:21
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You'd hear it. The click of the compressor clutch engaging is distinctive.
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Jun 28, 2018 21:21
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 This is the only pulley I could find under the cab. I didn't notice one earlier when I put the refrigerant in and didn't see anything when I looked again without taking the grille off. I'm assuming I either missed it somewhere, or the truck just doesn't have one, despite having the AC options on the dash.
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Jun 28, 2018 22:28
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Admiral Joeslop posted:
If you put in refrigerant then you have to have a compressor somewhere, those connectors are only used in AC systems. Do you have a picture of where your refrigerant went in? What you posted is an alternator, connected to the water pump and then probably connected to the crank which drives it all. The compressor (which will look like what scuz posted) might be on the other side. If the truck has AC controls in the cab then it at least came with AC to begin with, but it's always possible that someone removed the compressor later, the AC system is wholly separate from everything else in the truck with the exception of needing a drive belt off the crank. EDIT Motronic's AC thread goes over what an AC system is to help you figure out if you have a compressor. It's a looped system.
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Jun 28, 2018 23:06
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I kinda assumed there was something I was missing since the refrigerant went in. I'm home now so I'll take a look tomorrow. Speaking of the mechanic, there was a time once where he didn't fix my brakes like he was supposed to and I found out when I had to stop on the highway and hit the floor with the pedal. That was fun. Or that it took two months to fix my steering wheel. It wouldn't turn without extreme effort. He did finally fix it (and it's happened again twice since then). Someone else had a problem with their muffler hanging low so instead of welding it or whatever, he bent a coat hanger under the chassis and stuck the muffler on that.
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Jun 28, 2018 23:11
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I had one front control arm, as well as both sway bar links replaced. Before this, the car pulled every so slightly to the right on a flat road. After the repair, it tracks dead straight, but the steering wheel is 15-20 degrees off centre when doing so, which was not the case before. Do I need to bring the car in to an alignment place? If so is it generally accepted that you would need to take your car to a separate alignment place after having work done on the suspension? The shop that did the work doesn't advertise that they do alignments, so is this possibly just a case of them forgetting to tell me I should go get that done?
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Jun 28, 2018 23:40
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I drive a 2005-built Isuzu NPR truck for work. The air conditioning has never worked in the two years I've had it. The air blows out just fine but is not cold. The mechanic we have is entirely useless and refuses to fix anyone's AC because he thinks it's a luxury. How feasible is it for me to go to a pull-a-part, or eBay, or whatever, and get it fixed myself? Find a mechanic who isn't a dick. I wouldn't give that guy a quarter on the side of the road if he told me that. You don't know what the problem is, and you don't have the equipment to diagnose it. Don't just start throwing parts at it. Edit: I'm in the minority here, I guess.
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Jun 29, 2018 01:40
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Godholio posted:Find a mechanic who isn't a dick. I wouldn't give that guy a quarter on the side of the road if he told me that. Admiral Joeslop posted:I drive a 2005-built Isuzu NPR truck for work. The air conditioning has never worked in the two years I've had it. The air blows out just fine but is not cold. The mechanic we have is entirely useless and refuses to fix anyone's AC because he thinks it's a luxury. How feasible is it for me to go to a pull-a-part, or eBay, or whatever, and get it fixed myself? It's his work truck and the mechanic is the work-truck-fixer mechanic. This isn't his personal vehicle. Thus I doubt he wants to take it in to another mechanic and pay for his work truck. Dude would just like to have working AC while he's at his job.
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Jun 29, 2018 01:55
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I'm not really in the position to pay god knows how much to fix a truck I don't even own, assuming I don't get reamed out or fired for doing it. If it's something I can do, I just want to not drive in 98+ degree weather with only windows down. I don't even have a power adapter to hook up a fan, the spot is just a big hole where the adapter used to be. Edit: On the positive side, I know generally how to refill refrigerant now 
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Jun 29, 2018 02:01
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Whoops, skipped that "for work" bit. Yeah, that changes things.
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Jun 29, 2018 02:32
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I'd still not budge on it. What's osha have to say about working environment temperature?
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Jun 29, 2018 02:37
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So I can’t figure out where the gently caress this leak is coming from. 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i limited in Arizona so routinely 100-114 f 2 days ago my wife says she was driving down the road and hit something in a construction site and the engine started going spastic check engine light(check engine light was P0117 more or less yo your car got too hot dude) and over heating warning. She pulls over at her job and the car is just dumping coolant. I wasn’t there to see it and she’s not savvy enough to know what to look for. She had it towed back to the house because the radiator and the reservoir were both bone dry. I fill it up with coolant the radiator and overflow and let it run for like 30 minutes. No leaks or coolant scent. I do a coolant pressure test to 15-17 psi 3 different times no leak. I do a block test. No signs of a leak. The most I could come up with was replacing the radiator cap, but even then the cap was in good physical condition and the rubber seals felt pretty drat new. Any suggestions? I’m one weird happening away from blaming it on Satan and burning sage in the engine bay. JimsonTheBetrayer fucked around with this message at 09:51 on Jun 29, 2018 |
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Jun 29, 2018 09:44
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A leak at the thermostat and it didn't get hot enough to open in 30 minutes?
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Jun 29, 2018 10:34
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JimsonTheBetrayer posted:So I can’t figure out where the gently caress this leak is coming from. I have two ideas, both of which I've had on my own cars that produced similar symptoms. One is the radiator fan isn't coming on, so you would only see the overheating in stop-and-go traffic. The other is a bad water pump seal that leaks intermittently under load.
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Jun 29, 2018 15:20
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Seems extraordinarily unlikely, but is it possible whatever was hit bumped the petcock just enough to cause it to divest itself of coolant, but you happened to close it after? How quickly did the light come on after hitting the object? Are there any visible marks that you could use to trace what the object hit?
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Jun 29, 2018 18:15
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spankmeister posted:A leak at the thermostat and it didn't get hot enough to open in 30 minutes? I had her drive me to work to see if it would cause the same issue so maybe another 40 minutes of high load driving on bumpy as gently caress desert highway. I’m probably gonna replace the thermostat next though because the car has way to much mileage on it for it to still be good to go. Krakkles posted:Seems extraordinarily unlikely, but is it possible whatever was hit bumped the petcock just enough to cause it to divest itself of coolant, but you happened to close it after? Wife says it was immediate, hit the bump and everything went bonkers. I did the best I could to look around and saw no damage to the internal or the under carriage either.
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Jun 29, 2018 19:47
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Just spitballing here, but if it was particularly hot that day, traffic was slow and she was running the A/C its possible the engine was on the verge of overheating and the shock of whatever she hit was enough to trigger the pressure release valve in the radiator/overflow tank cap.
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Jun 29, 2018 20:45
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I just can't fully trust that sensor reading as accurate because I just don't see how a Subaru would get to 280+ degrees water temp and still have a usable engine.
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Jun 29, 2018 20:53
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IOwnCalculus posted:I just can't fully trust that sensor reading as accurate because I just don't see how a Subaru would get to 280+ degrees water temp and still have a usable engine. Trust me when I say I really loving hate this stupid loving dummy sensor. Give me a good ol’ temperature gauge any day of the week.
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Jun 29, 2018 22:00
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What do people think of the Fair app? Basically lets you do short term leases for an upfront payment + monthly fee. Is it a terrible deal and are you a sucker for using that?
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Jun 30, 2018 00:09
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AHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA Wait, you're serious? Let me laugh even harder.
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Jun 30, 2018 01:04
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