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EightBit posted:I threw away the harbor freight one. Granted, that's because it was poo poo at actually holding up just a couple hundred pounds (some quick googling shows that nv3550 + np231 dry weight is about 170 pounds). The screw mechanism bound up if it wasn't perfectly centered, which was impossible to do with a transfer case hanging off of the back of the transmission. If you're moving something that is heavier, I would try to find a sturdier jack. Mine worked well on my Porsche Cayman transaxle, but it was a more compact load than a transmission/transfer case.
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Jul 1, 2018 03:37
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I just realised that I probably need to get a torque wrench for my sparkplug change. If I remember correcly, they need about 19NM or so. I have a 40-210NM wrench. The only reasonable wrench I can find is a no name one that has 2-25NM. Maybe a "how long is a piece of sting" type of question, but how likely am I to needing a torque wrench for the gap between 25-40NM? I haven't come across anything in that range so far. Edit: Also, are manual "needle on a graded scale" torque wrenches even worth looking at? MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 10:43 on Jul 1, 2018 |
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Jul 1, 2018 10:41
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Proper clicky-style torque wrenches have, in the last decade, gone from quite expensive to downright reasonable, and with very decent precision. And if you look closely, you’ll see half of them are made in the same factory in Taiwan and rebranded.
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Jul 1, 2018 13:10
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MrOnBicycle posted:I just realised that I probably need to get a torque wrench for my sparkplug change. If I remember correcly, they need about 19NM or so. I have a 40-210NM wrench. The only reasonable wrench I can find is a no name one that has 2-25NM. Whatever “finger tight plus a fractional turn” measurement spark plug mfgers quote is accurate for the first use of the crush washers. It’s usually written on the box of the cheap ones my MG fouls out.
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Jul 1, 2018 13:46
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^ I'm too much of a wimp to do it that way the first time.  I also enjoy hearing the torque wrench click and knowing that at least I didn't gently caress up in that way.bolind posted:Proper clicky-style torque wrenches have, in the last decade, gone from quite expensive to downright reasonable, and with very decent precision. And if you look closely, you’ll see half of them are made in the same factory in Taiwan and rebranded. Yeah I noticed that. Mine's probably Taiwan produced as well. Most of them seem to be +-4% anyway (which is less than the specified torque range on most of the service items). I guess I'll go and get what I need for the moment and figure out in the future what I'll actually want to have good quality stuff for. Also, looking though the service manual, most things seem to be either <25nm or above 40nm so I guess I'll be fine. I kinda want to torque my sparkplugs though, first time swapping and no feel for torque. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 14:00 on Jul 1, 2018 |
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Jul 1, 2018 13:58
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MrOnBicycle posted:^ I'm too much of a wimp to do it that way the first time. I’d think “bottomed plus turn” is actually a better measure since the crush washer is a factory-known variable.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:31
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eddiewalker posted:I’d think “bottomed plus turn” is actually a better measure since the crush washer is a factory-known variable. Agreed. Best to follow the plus "x" degrees or whatever specified by the plug manufacturer. That's a specifically designed juncture.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:54
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EVERYWHERE 
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eddiewalker posted:I’d think “bottomed plus turn” is actually a better measure since the crush washer is a factory-known variable. Seminal Flu posted:Agreed. Best to follow the plus "x" degrees or whatever specified by the plug manufacturer. That's a specifically designed juncture. Oh, didn't know that. Cool, I'll keep that in mind the next time I come across crush washers.
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Jul 1, 2018 16:17
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I tend to buy cheap off-brand spark plugs for my lovely cars, and those never have any such fancy specifications on them. But even for those, I find it's not too hard to go by feel. After they're finger tight, there are a couple of turns of almost constant (but pretty low) torque as the washer is being compressed. Feels somehow similar to stripping out threads, except it lasts longer. Once the washer is crushed, torque rises pretty quickly, and the wrench goes click.
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Jul 1, 2018 16:56
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What the he'll is an off brand spark plug?
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Jul 1, 2018 17:14
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Something that isn't NGK or Bosch or Denso but rather sounds like the name of some Ikea furniture.
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Jul 1, 2018 17:33
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Arcöffal?
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Jul 1, 2018 17:35
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ionn posted:Something that isn't NGK or Bosch or Denso but rather sounds like the name of some Ikea furniture. I honestly don't think i've EVER seen an off brand plug.
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Jul 1, 2018 18:32
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Maybe you live in the glorious lands where car parts from well-known brands are cheap and ubiquitous, but in the cold dark socialist northern europe the common man cannot afford such luxury. My spark plugs have names such as Ridex, Brisk, Beru, Vemo and Stark. I'm sure there's Arcöffal and Pöpli if I look hard enough.
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Jul 1, 2018 19:45
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Even a cheap mower-grade Champion has tightening instructions on the box.
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Jul 1, 2018 19:53
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Wut? Everything from no-name cheap poo poo to OEM BMW stuff and I’ve never seen tightening instructions...
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Jul 1, 2018 20:39
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Jul 1, 2018 20:43
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And those are the standard tightening conventions, too... crush washer gets 1/2 turn past finger tight, conical seat gets 1/16 of a turn past.
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Jul 1, 2018 21:03
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Never used a torque wrench when doing plugs. And I own the engine that is the king of blowing them out the head. Knock on wood. Hell there would be no way to properly use a torque wrench probably on that motor when going through 2 universals and 3 extensions. Then of course you have the accuracy of torque wrench with such a low number (around 16lb). Cases like this I trust my gut my own feel.
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Jul 1, 2018 23:43
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C-Bangin' it 
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Now I'm trying to picture the free body diagram of a torque wrench with a u-joint.
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Jul 2, 2018 00:00
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After I thought about this for awhile, I'm amazed Champion makes Iridium plugs. Figured their factory line was basically cranking out the RJ19LM for 10,000,000 lawn mowers per year. ionn posted:Maybe you live in the glorious lands where car parts from well-known brands are cheap and ubiquitous, but in the cold dark socialist northern europe the common man cannot afford such luxury. My spark plugs have names such as Ridex, Brisk, Beru, Vemo and Stark. I'm sure there's Arcöffal and Pöpli if I look hard enough. Yeah, we'll send you some Autolite copper plugs.
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Jul 2, 2018 05:54
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QuarkMartial posted:Transmission jacks: should I just go with the harbor freight one or is there a better one? I did a small manual transmission, a T-18, with it. No bellhousing attached, worked fine. I think it also made some guest appearances lifting my cab when I was doing rust repair. If I hadn’t already been hundreds of dollars into various parts for the truck I would have purchased a more expensive one. I’ll probably use it again for my transfer case next year.
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Jul 2, 2018 17:44
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MrOnBicycle posted:I just realised that I probably need to get a torque wrench for my sparkplug change. If I remember correcly, they need about 19NM or so. I have a 40-210NM wrench. The only reasonable wrench I can find is a no name one that has 2-25NM. I agree you don't need a torque wrench for sparkplugs, but are you looking at only 1/2" socket wrenches? If you need another tool have you considered a 3/8" wrench? Cheap ones are usually 20-110nm, good ones are 10-100nm If you needed two torque wrenches the 3/8" might come in handy if it's slightly shorter for the times you can't fit a 60cm long handled 1/2" wrench into a spot.
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Jul 2, 2018 21:38
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I guess I should give more details; that was posted in the middle of my freakout over my transmission dying. It's a 2wd Ford transmission, so no transfer case to deal with or anything like that. I think it's a 4R75W or 4R75E; not sure which.
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Jul 2, 2018 21:53
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QuarkMartial posted:I guess I should give more details; that was posted in the middle of my freakout over my transmission dying. If you cll a dealer, and give them the VIN number, they should be able to tell you.
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Jul 2, 2018 22:34
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StormDrain posted:I did a small manual transmission, a T-18, with it. No bellhousing attached, worked fine. I think it also made some guest appearances lifting my cab when I was doing rust repair. If I hadn’t already been hundreds of dollars into various parts for the truck I would have purchased a more expensive one. I’ll probably use it again for my transfer case next year. Why not just mod a regular jack?
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Jul 3, 2018 01:03
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I should return this right?
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Jul 3, 2018 17:42
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Yes
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Jul 3, 2018 18:15
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Yeah, poo poo you don't gently caress with for $200 Alex.
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Jul 3, 2018 18:24
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stgdz posted:Why not just mod a regular jack? Two good reasons, the strap was helpful to position the transmission in place, and the screw mechanism for lifting allows you to lower it just a touch or raise it, which was key to get the spline set into the transmission and slide it in. And the casters turn in all directions so it’s easier to position.
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Jul 3, 2018 18:50
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yeah, poo poo you don't gently caress with for $200 Alex. I paid much less than $200 for this.
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Jul 3, 2018 19:07
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it's brand new and has a few drips of lubricant coming out of it? i'm not sure there's a crisis here
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Jul 3, 2018 19:27
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Yeah, same here.  It's probably just some anti-corrosion oil put on it from shipping. I'd just wipe it off. I'm thinking it's going to stop on its own pretty quickly.
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Jul 3, 2018 19:31
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These things use grease internally, don't they? Not like a liquid oil.
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Jul 3, 2018 19:38
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Looks like a bit of rust protecting oil to me too. It's the kind of light coating sprayed on metal stuff before boxing it up to sit on a shelf somewhere in potentially humid or horrible conditions for a long time.
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Jul 3, 2018 20:35
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mod sassinator posted:to sit on a shelf somewhere in potentially humid or horrible conditions for a long time. Sounds like a Home Depot to me.
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Jul 3, 2018 20:49
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Yeah if it were a bearing or metal on metal grease I'd bet it would be a lot thicker and dark or nasty smelling.
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Jul 3, 2018 20:53
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Colostomy Bag posted:Never used a torque wrench when doing plugs. And I own the engine that is the king of blowing them out the head. Knock on wood. Hell there would be no way to properly use a torque wrench probably on that motor when going through 2 universals and 3 extensions. Then of course you have the accuracy of torque wrench with such a low number (around 16lb). Cases like this I trust my gut my own feel. Do you have a 2 valve Ford 4.6 with a Ford Racing Intake covering 3 of the 4 passenger side plugs?
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Jul 4, 2018 03:57
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Okay have you run the saw? If it wipes off and no more comes out maybe it's fine, if more comes out I'd see about returning it.
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Jul 4, 2018 14:07
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thebigcow posted:Do you have a 2 valve Ford 4.6 with a Ford Racing Intake covering 3 of the 4 passenger side plugs? Close. 5.4 in a expedition with rear air.
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Jul 4, 2018 14:15
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