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out of the spout. Actually, the shower. The spout doesn't have a handle either, and hasn't been turned on in years.
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Jun 22, 2018 12:40
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The Dregs posted:Here is one of the fixtures. Sorry I didn't post this before, I fugured they were pretty standard. It had ridges on it for (I assume) attaching to the handles. But, they're pretty much worn away. The leak is getting worse too! Pretty sure I found the replacement handle on amazon Here
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Jun 22, 2018 14:24
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I'm perfectly fine with that handle. It is just that it is leaking, so I should probably replace the stems while I am at it.
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Jun 22, 2018 14:48
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The Dregs posted:out of the spout. Actually, the shower. The spout doesn't have a handle either, and hasn't been turned on in years. In that case, it's the seat washer: the rubber washer at the very tip of the stem that makes the seal when you screw in the stem all the way. You will get a new one with a new stem. To get off the escutcheon, try unscrewing it. Try it with just your hands first. If it won't budge, look down that tube around the stem. Sometimes you can open up a pair of needlenose pliers against little bumps on the inside and unscrew the thing. Once off, soak that thing in vinegar overnight to get rid of the hard water. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 16:23
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Turns out the mystery ultra super rare stem was just a Gerber. So common that they sell sets of all three stems, plus handles and removal tools at Home depot for 30 bucks. Replacing it now. i don't think it will be too hard at all. Thanks guys. That plumber was a dick.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:30
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The Dregs posted:Turns out the mystery ultra super rare stem was just a Gerber. So common that they sell sets of all three stems, plus handles and removal tools at Home depot for 30 bucks. Replacing it now. i don't think it will be too hard at all. Thanks guys. Hey, check out my original instructions again and not what you quoted. I noticed a typo and fixed it in my post. $30 is a steal. All brass?
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Jun 22, 2018 16:34
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Yeah. All brass. But turns out I am hosed. The valve seat in the cold water is cracked. Cant even screw that bushing in. Looks like it will need to be replaced. This is bad. Think I may have to call the plumber on this one. Replacing the valve looks lovely. The Dregs fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 17:00
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I had the plumbers come out and install a couple shut off valves for me. I am going to replace the entire shebang myself. Those guys wanted something like 800 bucks. I had to pay 275 for the two valves.
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Jun 23, 2018 00:18
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The Dregs posted:Yeah. All brass. But turns out I am hosed. The valve seat in the cold water is cracked. Cant even screw that bushing in. Looks like it will need to be replaced. This is bad. If you can get to it from the back, it should be a pretty simple process. Even if you can't, modern one handle valves come with (or have available) a big metal plate that will cover the hole in the tile you're going to have to make. I'm pretty sure there's a this old house episode that covers it. You've discovered why the plumber didn't want to touch it!
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Jun 23, 2018 04:13
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Im getting quotes to install a new water heater and the first plumber I've had come out gave me a $2,228 quote for the job of just installing the new water heater. The poo poo he line itemed is ridiculous and I hope nobody falls for that poo poo. $150 for a gas sediment trap install, which is literally a piece of pipe it already has, just removed and reinstalled I guess??
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Jun 25, 2018 14:16
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That might not necessarily be the "rip off" price. He may have given you the "I really don't want to do this job" price.
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Jun 25, 2018 17:22
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kid sinister posted:That might not necessarily be the "rip off" price. He may have given you the "I really don't want to do this job" price.
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Jun 25, 2018 17:34
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Second plumber came out and told me $1,800.  Here's hoping that the two I'm getting quotes from tomorrow are more reasonable. This is just a normal gas water heater, not tankless.
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Jun 25, 2018 21:08
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SpartanIvy posted:Second plumber came out and told me $1,800. Is it in an attic? Do they have to line your chimney? Getting better, at least.
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Jun 25, 2018 21:17
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Is that just installation or does that include the cost of the unit? Are you in an affluent area?
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Jun 25, 2018 21:26
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Does not include the new unit, or removal of old unit, which is already done. I live in an older area thats near an affluent area but definitely is not. Those charges are for: -replacing 20" of gas pipe against the side wall of the closet. Exposed and easy to get to. -running a 10"x6" vent down the other side of the wall. The proper sized hole is already in the ceiling to the attic, it just needs the vent to be run. I did this once and didn't know how to properly join the vent sections together so I removed my poo poo. If I had drive cleats it would be like a half hour fix. -running a pressure relief drain line to the exterior of the house. I have crawlspace access and it's fairly roomy down there, so it would be easy. You just follow the existing pan drain line. It's a straightshot. I thought i could get away with running the relief pipe to the pan but that's only up to code for slab foundations I am now aware. -attaching hoses from wall to water heater -attaching b-type vent from ceiling to water heater. From ceiling to roof is already b-type Other things: -so far no one has mentioned installing an expansion tank which I think is required now, but maybe not, it's still a good idea -im working on sealing the door to the closet myself, so that bit isn't even included in the cost -i already installed an electrical outlet in the closet as well SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 21:41
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That does seem like high quotes, then. Someone else had a good experience with one of those "find a local contractor" apps for swapping a water heater. You sound pretty knowledgeable, is a self-install out of the question? I dunno about plumbing codes, but yeah you need an expansion tank. When you shut off your water supply, you've got a closed system.
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Jun 26, 2018 18:46
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I've been working on it myself but with a 9-5 job and all I've only been able to tackle it a few hours at a time on the weekends in addition to other house stuff and I'm now out of time and need to move in. A lot of that time was undoing wrong poo poo from the last water heater install back in 2011. There's still some real shoddy work in the crawlspace but I'll worry about fixing that headache if/when it breaks. Just had a contractor through home Depot come out and quote me $800. I've got one more guy coming out for a quote but I doubt they'll beat home Depot guys price. I realize home Depot guys quality might be lacking but he can do it to code and I can spit shine any rough edges he leaves behind. He mentioned running the pressure relief line to the crawlspace which is a super bad idea, but I'll let it sit for a few weeks until I have time to run copper out the back of the house. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 18:53 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 18:49
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Just for the record, do you look like a total rube?
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Jun 26, 2018 20:54
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I bet you just stand there and watch people work don’t you
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Jun 26, 2018 21:03
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kid sinister posted:Just for the record, do you look like a total rube? I don't think so? I'm a short guy who looks a lot younger than he is and I'm dressed in business casual so maybe they assume I'm an early twenty something kid with Mommy and Daddy money to throw around. tyler posted:I bet you just stand there and watch people work don’t you Only with strippers. If I had time to watch I'd just continue doing it myself  E: if anyone knows where I should search locally to find drive cleats for ducting, I would appreciate it. I've called one HVAC supply store already and the guy hadn't heard of it. All I've found at home Depot/Lowe's are S cleats. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 21:27 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 21:11
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That guy was either a dumbass or being difficult. Just stop by (maybe a different place) and tell them you need some square duct drive connectors. Any HVAC supply stocks those.
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Jun 26, 2018 23:33
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Look for a bit of advice about how to judge the effectiveness of a plumber. First some background: Just bought a house originally built in 1915. The seller had done a down to the studs gut and rebuild including new hvac, electrical and plumbing. Before moving in, we hired a plumber to replace the toilets (round->oblong). While that was underway, we noticed that they were flushing slowly. His snake wasn't long enough to clear the blockage so we called a drain guy. His first take was that we had a house trap since his snake got stopped pretty quickly going in the cleanout. He cleaned things out but said we might have problems again down the line and to call him if we did and he'd scope it for us. 4 or so days later we move in and immediately have the drains back up into the basement shower and toilet. We call the drain guy back in and he discovers that there is A) some charred metal and B) some cracked PVC pipe fragments near the junction where the basement drains join the house drain. This is catching the tp and causing a block. They located the block under the (finished) basement floor in the main part of the basement. The drain guy says that we're going to need to rip up the carpet, jackhammer out the concrete, replace the junction piping, and remove the fragments and then put the basement back together. I have the seller and the plumber that did the work coming over tomorrow to take a look with their scope. Based on how the sale contract was written, my lawyer says that the seller can likely put the plumber on the hook for fixing things. I'm concerned that if he screwed it up the first time (as well as failed to actually attach the flange to the floor on the basement toilet) that he's going to screw it up the second time. On a scale from 1 to 10 where 1 is "everyone is human" to 10 "this guy is probably a colossal gently caress up" where does this plumber likely fall based on the evidence?
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Jun 27, 2018 01:41
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Somehow I got the feeling that the legal fees will be more than taking care of it right away, plus he won't do any work while proceedings are underway. I also doubt that he will put much effort into fixing it correctly the second time if he is found liable. Also, you probably don't need to rip the carpet up. You can almost certainly just unfasten it from the tack strips and roll it up and out of the way, then roll it back and restretch it once everything is fixed. Same goes for the padding.
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Jun 27, 2018 19:21
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wins32767 posted:Look for a bit of advice about how to judge the effectiveness of a plumber. Why can't they just Jet the line and clear it. Unless the fragments are gigantic.
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Jun 28, 2018 01:27
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Turd Herder posted:Why can't they just Jet the line and clear it. Unless the fragments are gigantic. So, to close the loop on this there was a giant metal drain snake shroud (about the size of my hand) in the line. Which is why the jet didn't work.
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Jun 29, 2018 01:03
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wins32767 posted:So, to close the loop on this there was a giant metal drain snake shroud (about the size of my hand) in the line. Which is why the jet didn't work.
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Jun 29, 2018 13:05
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Update on water heater saga: I agreed to pay home Depot to install it just to get it done quickly. Well the guy that came out thought it was for an initial quote. He called the home office and they couldn't find the guy I originally talked to or had scheduled since I had the original quote but he didn't put his name on it. The new guy said he wouldnt have taken the job because of the fact that I had a galvanized water supply pipe, and if he had he would have quoted me twice as much! Eventually the office figured out who I originally dealt with and they're going to send him out tomorrow morning. So I get to go another day without hot water! The new guy did compliment the work I had done myseld though and said I should just finish it myself, but then backpedaled and mentioned the Home Depot warranty, and other benefits of them doing it, especially at the quoted price. Also no luck finding square vent drive cleats. Talked to a second HVAC and Plumbing supplier that had never heard of them. I should "just use foil tape like everyone else". I'm beginning to seriously question the HVAC integrity of my area. So in the end I'm using S cleats and foil tape and it's working fine. SpartanIvy fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jun 29, 2018 |
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Jun 29, 2018 18:32
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That is seriously bonkers, but now that I think about it - a million years ago when I worked on commercial HVAC, we had a machine to bend our own, and everything but spiral duct was made in-house. Residential uses pretty much 100% flex duct so I guess there's no reason for an HVAC supplier in most areas to carry that stuff?
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Jun 29, 2018 21:59
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I have major renovation plans for my bathroom, but I don't have the cash for it handy. On the other hand, I need to replace my bath pronto. Currently, it's got a mixer tap, and an electric shower (running off a separate water feed), and some awful scummy jacuzzi system. It needs to be replaced, and my long term goal is to use a filler on the overflow i.e. https://victoriaplum.com/product/bath-filler-and-integral-waste-and-overflow-bfw01 and a ceiling mounted showerhead (since space and clearance is very limited) such as https://victoriaplum.com/product/orchard-square-shower-head-200mm - so the obvious choice is a concealed mixer in one of the walls (https://victoriaplum.com/product/mode-cubik-square-triple-thermostatic-shower-valve-offer-pack) - but in the interim I'm kind of stuck - I have nowhere to mount it, and initially it'll only control the bath until I get around to the whole redecorating process and replace the shower. What options do I have in the meantime? I'd rather not buy a bath with tap holes now, and then buy another one without them in a year or two....
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Jun 30, 2018 18:42
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I now have a working water heater! That's the good news. Bad news is this is the plumbing that ~$650 for 3 hours of work gets you. I raised questions about the black pipe and galvanized to brass connection when I saw it and was brushed off. I'll point it out the inspector when they come and see what they think.  E: turns out brass is fine to connect to zinc and copper, you just can't connect galvanized pipe straight to copper I guess.
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Jun 30, 2018 20:03
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I make it a habit to replace the galvanized nipples with brass ones when I work on a water heater. I live near the ocean, so that might have something to do with the ~7 year lifespan of galvanized nipples on water heaters I've worked on.
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Jun 30, 2018 22:44
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SpartanIvy posted:I now have a working water heater! That's the good news. Thought you said it was a standard water heater. It looks like it's a power vent water heater. Which would explain why the price was higher. And that guy ripped you off. That install looks like garbage.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:16
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Turd Herder posted:Thought you said it was a standard water heater. It looks like it's a power vent water heater. Which would explain why the price was higher. Why would a power vent matter? The only difference is that it needs b-vent instead of being able to use single wall within the closet. I already had b vent run to the exterior of the house. Which also if you look at the picture, you'll see isn't properly slid together and he ran screws into, which you don't do on b-vent. Also the way he did the gas can't be code compliant either. GG Home Depot. I'm calling them to get him or someone else to come out here and fix it. 
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Jul 1, 2018 14:57
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I'm not a professional plumber, but it's definitely ugly as hell.
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Jul 1, 2018 17:41
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Taking the lowest bid on stuff like this usually results in heartache in my experience.
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Jul 2, 2018 13:39
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The lowest bid of $200+/hr, for some pretty loving simple work with easy access. I didn't cheap out and hire some back alley "plumber" or something. This guy is supposed to be a trained and licensed professional. It was through Home Depot, so they'll make it right, I just have to bitch enough.
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Jul 2, 2018 16:18
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SpartanIvy posted:The lowest bid of $200+/hr, for some pretty loving simple work with easy access. I didn't cheap out and hire some back alley "plumber" or something. This guy is supposed to be a trained and licensed professional. Did that pass inspection? I thought the gas would need a drip leg?
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Jul 3, 2018 00:42
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devicenull posted:Did that pass inspection? I thought the gas would need a drip leg? Inspection is scheduled for next week. There is no way it should pass inspection.
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Jul 3, 2018 01:46
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SpartanIvy posted:I figured standard meant opposed to tankless. Its just more poo poo people have to deal with. I was also thinking they were providing the heater but realized you provided it.
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Jul 3, 2018 14:50
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