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And in slightly less weird coincidences, I live in Dunedin. Wasn’t around in the 1870s though so can’t offer and more insight.
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Jun 26, 2018 12:15
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| # ? May 18, 2024 21:22 |
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I've just discovered that the roofer, who I'm on slightly uneasy terms with, fitted one of the soffits in such a way that it blocks the opening of a window. Sigh.SolTerrasa posted:Weird coincidence: I actually wrote the import handler and merger for that exact data set for Google Maps - the ordnance survey one, not the royal mail. Royal mail is a bit different, but not that far off. Anyhow, if you can't find it on Google Maps you're not super likely to get it from reading the dataset yourself - that import was pretty complete. That is interesting! And good to know. NoSpoon posted:And in slightly less weird coincidences, I live in Dunedin. Wasn’t around in the 1870s though so can’t offer and more insight. Know any families with the surname Bull?
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Jun 26, 2018 21:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:
Nope
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Jun 27, 2018 12:06
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NoSpoon posted:Nope No Bull
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Jun 27, 2018 12:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've just discovered that the roofer, who I'm on slightly uneasy terms with, fitted one of the soffits in such a way that it blocks the opening of a window. Sigh. So, wrongly? Are you casually pointing this out or hammering his head against it until the window opens?
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Jun 27, 2018 20:56
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cakesmith handyman posted:So, wrongly? Are you casually pointing this out or hammering his head against it until the window opens? I've emailed him asking for him to make alterations but I suspect I won't hear back, and I'll have to fix it myself (without ruining the render which is now up against it).
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Jun 27, 2018 21:03
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Ughhhhhhh gently caress. You just can't catch a break can you?
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Jun 27, 2018 21:29
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Not so far!
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Jun 27, 2018 22:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've just discovered that the roofer, who I'm on slightly uneasy terms with, fitted one of the soffits in such a way that it blocks the opening of a window. Sigh. Let me guess: you've paid him in full already?
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Jun 28, 2018 01:24
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PainterofCrap posted:Let me guess: you've paid him in full already? Yeah, the work looked fine, this window is opened rarely so I only just found it.
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Jun 28, 2018 08:32
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I absolutely had the energy to tackle a few bits and pieces after work, especially looking at the name stone on the front since the scaffold is being removed tomorrow, but the last hour of work has killed all my brain juice to the point where I can't even come to a solution for safely holding and administering white spirit with the things I have available. So I'm going to nap instead.
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Jun 28, 2018 16:04
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I had a spare half hour today so I scooted up on the scaffold with a sponge and some white spirit, to see what could be learned about the name stone. Things learned: 1. White spirit does a very good job at cleaning off render, which will be useful for tidying up a few bits at the back of the house. 2. White spirit eats sponges. 3. White spirit does clean the paint off reasonably well but only where it's in a thin layer, I'm going to have to mechanically remove the main thickness. 4. I really don't think there's anything written under the paint, but if there is it's likely going to come off with it. The stone post-quick-cleanup:   The worst offending blocked window from the previous post:  The current state of the garden for posterity (the nettles dead-centre are 6ft high)  Bonus rat pic 
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Jun 29, 2018 15:18
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Jaded Burnout posted:I had a spare half hour today so I scooted up on the scaffold with a sponge and some white spirit, to see what could be learned about the name stone. use a cloth rather than a sponge, and if you don't like doing it mechanically you could always use a stripper like nitromors (but it isn't pleasant stuff to use). I think you're right and there is nothing on your stone. I stripped the paint off my ex-military truck (which came with the military standard of approx 10 layers of paint) and its pretty obvious when you find painted on markings under other coats of paint. Here's a progression from roughly layer -3 to -7 in one spot which had 3 different markings on different layers:    quote:The current state of the garden for posterity (the nettles dead-centre are 6ft high) If I was you I would have to go attack that garden now!. I'm not particularly keen on garden work nor especially tidy but I gain a special kind of satisfaction from cutting overgrown stuff down as it is one of those jobs that requires zero 'brain juice'
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Jun 30, 2018 10:32
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Tomarse posted:
I agree with this, just don't let it overwhelm you. Choose a smallish, specific area (maybe 3m x 3m) each time you go out and just work at it. Don't make it beautiful, just knock the thick vegetation down and get it under control. Once it's under control it will be a lot easier to maintain and improve.
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Jun 30, 2018 13:13
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Also slaughtering bits of garden can be a great de-stressing activity.
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Jun 30, 2018 14:06
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I ain't touchin' that garden. I attacked it when I first moved in as it was in a similar state, and that grass is angry and does not wish to be cut. My approach this time will be to let either the landscaper or winter kill it all, whichever comes first (it'll be winter).
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Jun 30, 2018 16:46
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Today, around 11, I got myself ready to do some WORK. There were already at least 2 other sets of people out sawing and hammering in their gardens. Busted out one of my new workin' tshirts  Set up all this poo poo  Cutting station  Long-board props and The Thinking Chair which I use when I need a moment to ponder my next move.  First step was to correct the uprights because although I'd lined them up properly, I forgot to trim off the thickness of the edge boards.  I also wanted to address this overly proud screw which didn't fancy going in any further when I fit it.  Trimming    I forgot to redrill the hole after all but apparently all it needed was a good run up  Now what the gently caress is this poo poo, right hand upright? What are you playing at?  Not super easy to see in this photo but it's managed to bend away from the wall  Trimmed it and reapplied with force  At this point I was ready to start on the crossbar and was very much bricking it as I only have one piece nice enough so I only have one shot at it. So, practice first. I grabbed a less good piece and lopped off a section    I tried various cuts and was extremely confused, my brain doesn't handle these sorts of angle-of-cut puzzles     Nope this doesn't work. Took a long sit in the Thinking Chair.  I wound up with what can only be used as a bottom piece, which is useless here. Another Thinking Chair session.  Puzzle piece offcuts  Tested actually joining the mitres, turned out OK   It was finally time to cut the real piece, so I loaded it up on the cutting station, measured the place where it was going, added 150mm, then remeasured to make sure I wasn't loving up. I wasn't. It was at this point that I remembered just how much of our physical movement is based on experience, and how little experience I have moving 5m long pieces of anything. Once that cross-cut was done I opened the doors slightly to give me a platform to work on, then power-cleaned the piece up there.  Marked the cutting points. The small mark is the only accurate one, the others are sketches so I can keep things straight. Bonus points if you can spot what I did wrong.   Marked the full cut with a set square, clamped it down.  Check out my totally official levellers  Left side looks good..  Right side looks.. oops.  Guess who forgot to subtract the thickness of the pieces? It me. Spent a few minutes in the Thinking Chair on that one. Fixed. It's a mm or two short but that's probably a good thing with regard to wood expansion later on.  I had the idea to cut custom-length props to fit under the piece on top of the doors to hold it in place, but it didn't work out very well so I did it by hand.   This was around the point where I reached down to grab my drill from my belt and impaled my hand on the wood bit. I guess this the "blood" part in blood, sweat & tears.  Alternated front and bottom nailing, then realised there was enough space to do both so I went and did that across the piece.   Aye that'll do  Busted out the oil and wax, the oil for the main faces of the piece, the wax for the cut ends.   Crossbar done  My main goal for this weekend was to get that piece and one actual cladding board in place, so I pressed on. Picked out a nice piece (given they're literally the centerpiece of this part) and fixed it on. Used a lost-head nail for the base and a flat head for the top which will be covered by the bottom of the next board. I won't need the bottom nail on other boards because of the tongue & groove. Opted for a 2mm gap above the crossbar.   Carried on across the board, adding spacers where needed to achieve plumb as best I could. Oiled and waxed.   That all took about 6 hours because of all the problem solving, next time (maybe tomorrow!) will be much faster now I know what I'm doing.
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Jun 30, 2018 18:08
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Worth the effort, you won't regret taking extra time on this later.
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Jun 30, 2018 18:54
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No work today, it’s a million loving degrees out there. I’m a little impressed that my neighbours still are, but at least one of them is a professional carpenter so
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Jul 1, 2018 13:06
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Ja, screw that. It's 90-degees F here in southern New Jersey, with 80% humidity. I started tearing down my son's 99 Accord in preparation for a clutch/bearing/mild engine refresh job looking to be completed once hell freezes over. I had a very large (30cm) fan going at/under the car while I was working and it was barely tolerable.
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Jul 1, 2018 22:45
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Jaded Burnout posted:Carried on across the board, adding spacers where needed to achieve plumb as best I could. Oiled and waxed. Not to harsh your groove, but should the ends of the cladding board be over empty space, rather than ending on a stud? I'm also assuming that you will be alternating where the ends fall so as to not have a continuous vertical seam? (I don't know a great deal about board cladding. My one and only house is typical American brick veneer.) edit: it was 103 on Sunday here in sunny Dallas-ish, Texas. Though the humidity wasn't terrible. I am now (temporarily) a red-neck in fact, if not in personality thanks to all that sun out there.
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Jul 2, 2018 21:38
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Darchangel posted:Not to harsh your groove, but should the ends of the cladding board be over empty space, rather than ending on a stud? I have wondered and I still can if need be. I think it's probably fine so long as they're well supported, but I'll give it some thought. The problem if I do it is either I need to fit cladding to match the lengths of the boards or cut the boards to the gaps between the batten (and have more wastage in the process). I might pop a small piece in behind the joins and fix to that. Though doing so would reduce the board's ability to shift with moisture changes and thus might split? I dunno, I'm no carpenter. Darchangel posted:I'm also assuming that you will be alternating where the ends fall so as to not have a continuous vertical seam? Yeah, either alternating or random.
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Jul 2, 2018 22:00
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Jaded Burnout posted:I have wondered and I still can if need be. I think it's probably fine so long as they're well supported, but I'll give it some thought. The problem if I do it is either I need to fit cladding to match the lengths of the boards or cut the boards to the gaps between the batten (and have more wastage in the process). Jaded Burnout posted:I might pop a small piece in behind the joins and fix to that. Jaded Burnout posted:Though doing so would reduce the board's ability to shift with moisture changes and thus might split? I dunno, I'm no carpenter.
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Jul 3, 2018 01:34
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Absolutely no free-floating anything, unless you want them to warp and stick out over time and weather exposure. All board ends must be affixed to something. Seconding the cripple stud or the ‘backplate’.
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Jul 3, 2018 08:37
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Today the weather is a little cooler so this afternoon I popped out and sat in the thinking chair for a bit. I had two main things to deal with. 1. Now that I'm incorporating the need to pin the ends of all boards into the framing, I checked the amount of batten I'll have left over once the edges are attached. The answer is "not much".  So I'm going to have to double up at least for the height of this doorway, a little annoyingly it seems that the post is standing slightly proud of the block behind it, as can be seen here despite them being the same size. I can already tell I'm going to have to go through a lot of spacers to keep all this flat.   2. The corner on this side has been bugging me for quite some time, mostly because round the corner I have this:  I could remove the existing batten and probably not damage the new render, but the best way to get a neat finish is going to be to double up, adding my thicker batten onto the existing as above. This means that the corner has to line up two different distances out from the wall, old batten + new on the left, just new on the right (I did think about this when picking the distances around the main doorway but it would've made a bigger mess there). That means this is the best solution I can come up with which allows both to meet neatly and still gives some batten for the ends of the face boards to pin to.  At this point a colleague needed me to do a thing so I had to go back inside. Once done with that, I needed to pick a fastener that will somehow get me through this trial. I gathered together all my screws and did a review. So here's my Screw Review, brought to you in part by procrastination. Spax flooring screws, with anti-creak shank and torx heads. Great stuff. Not using them here, too expensive, need them for the floors.  General purpose posi-head wood screws. Too drat short.  Really fucken tiny posi-head wood screws. Really fucken too short. Bought them for.. something to do with shelves for the rats?  Longer multi-purpose posi-head wood screws. Shame they're posi and not something actually good, but while going through this process I remembered that I bought these for this exact purpose, because I knew I'd have to fix the larger batten to the smaller somewhere. Looking at them now I'd buy longer in the future, but I was working from just specs and without a lot of experience. They'll get half way into the smaller batten which should do the job.  Masonry nails. Well, they're nails, which isn't a good start. I bought them for fixing batten to the dense block of the wall and it turns out they're crap. I'm sure they're good for something, but not these walls. Still, maybe I could repurpose them here? As they're a bit longer. Any opinion on nails vs screws for this application?  These are some beastly screws left over from my last house where I had a go at DIYing some convertable cinema furniture. Way overkill for what I was doing. Too long for this purpose and I don't have many left.  Another tub o' nails. Bought these to do some temporary construction of framed out boxes so I could prototype the utility room layout, but quickly discovered that a staple gun was much easier. These are the same length as the multi-purpose screws, and so useless here.  I also have some hooge concrete framing screws which I forgot to take a picture of and now I'm upstairs and don't want to go back down again. They're what I've been using to fix the main batten to the wall. Could use them here but even at 82mm they're only going to get maybe 20mm into the wall after going through two battens, so probably not worth it. Might use a couple to make sure the existing batten is well fixed, as I don't trust the old builder. So, probably the 50mm wood screws, maybe the 60mm masonry nails. Speaking of procrastination, I did recently notice in myself a thing where I would feel like I'm procrastinating, that I couldn't be bothered to tackle something, when in fact I'm just scared to try. Not scared of messing up so much, just that it's a known unknown and tackling it could result in distress, and so as a defence mechanism my mind tells me I can't be bothered. After having noticed this I can now usually override it, but today I just don't want to (or it's managed to step up a layer).
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Jul 3, 2018 17:04
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Jaded Burnout posted:Any opinion on nails vs screws for this application? Screws every time. Also aren't brains great, traitorous bastards.
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Jul 3, 2018 18:05
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There isn’t much that can’t be solved with a 5x60 or 4x50mm.
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Jul 3, 2018 20:26
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Jeherrin posted:There isn’t much that can’t be solved with a 5x60 or 4x50mm. I am but a babe in the woods. My current ponderance is how to fix the two parallel battens together. Technically not needed since batten 1 will be attached to the existing batten, batten 2 will be attached to 1, and 3 will be attached to the block. But seems a waste not to add extra strength to 2 since it'll be the one holding the corner board. My longest screws I think are the 50s and next up is 100s which are a bit too long really. Maybe I'm overthinking it.
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Jul 3, 2018 20:31
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jaded, dude. You know I love you. Care to offer any insight on your underfloor heating? Like do you know the layout of pipe runs and zonal splits and all that? Don't worry if you don't and the answer is just: don't do underfloor heating. Although I would lament the fact that its too late now! lol. its coming home!
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Jul 4, 2018 00:39
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Jaded Burnout posted:I ain't touchin' that garden. Winter kill it then rent a sickle bar mower and go scorched earth.
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Jul 4, 2018 05:56
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NotJustANumber99 posted:jaded, dude. You know I love you. Care to offer any insight on your underfloor heating? Like do you know the layout of pipe runs and zonal splits and all that? Don't worry if you don't and the answer is just: don't do underfloor heating. Although I would lament the fact that its too late now! lol. its coming home! What do you want to know?
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Jul 4, 2018 08:24
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Jaded Burnout posted:Today the weather is a little cooler so this afternoon I popped out and sat in the thinking chair for a bit. I had two main things to deal with. Assume you are going with the cripple studs as suggested above? Buying more batten wood is going to be significantly cheaper than buying more lengths of the cladding!
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Jul 4, 2018 11:51
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Tomarse posted:Assume you are going with the cripple studs as suggested above? Buying more batten wood is going to be significantly cheaper than buying more lengths of the cladding! I'll just double up the batten in the referenced areas and use short lengths at the joins between boards, yeah. I know "cripple" is the normal term but I'm going to avoid it if that's OK. I don't really want to buy more batten because yet more cost but I'm not going to half-rear end it either. I did buy 100m of it so hopefully I'll have enough by the end.
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Jul 4, 2018 12:34
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Jaded Burnout posted:What do you want to know? to tag along with this what made you decide on underfloor heating, and whats the maintenance issues you will have with it? I have never heard of it outside of some high end schools in my area.
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Jul 5, 2018 01:44
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Jumping in to say that my parents' house has underfloor heating - they live in an area that doesn't get very cold in the winter (never below 45*F) and even so honestly I didn't love it, it heats a room pretty slowly and the hot spots on the floors just feel kind of weird if you're barefoot. That being said theirs was put in in the late 70's so presumably the tech is much better now. Never had a issue with it, as far as I know, which is not true for the two-year-old heat pump in my house. 
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Jul 5, 2018 07:31
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My parents have it (electric underfloor heating) in their conservatory. In winter it isn't enough to heat the room, they have a radiator for that but a warm floor somehow makes a room that's 5-10° too cold perfectly comfortable and inviting. My only problem with it is I'd want it through the whole ground floor and that's just too expensive.
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Jul 5, 2018 07:42
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Check out kastein's thread in here for some of that as well, IIRC he put in-floor heating in the house he has completely gutted and rebuilt.
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Jul 5, 2018 07:46
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cakesmith handyman posted:My parents have it (electric underfloor heating) in their conservatory. In winter it isn't enough to heat the room, they have a radiator for that but a warm floor somehow makes a room that's 5-10° too cold perfectly comfortable and inviting. Underfloor heating via water pipes shouldn’t be more expensive than radiators etc, other than the initial cost of putting it in, and it’s faster than electric. Only makes financial sense if you’re doing a full refit & redoing the plumbing & floors everywhere.
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Jul 5, 2018 07:51
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UCS Hellmaker posted:to tag along with this what made you decide on underfloor heating 50% enjoyed the practicality of it, 50% taken in by some mental image of what it's like. I've not had a proper winter with it yet since last winter I had the UFH but no curtains or doors and a few areas of roof not properly sealed yet, and the zone controls not yet wired up, so I wound up with a huge gas bill keeping the whole house warm. We'll see how that goes next winter. UCS Hellmaker posted:and whats the maintenance issues you will have with it? Well, it's water running through PVC/aluminium pipes, so any issues you might have with fouling in supply lines will apply here. Mitigated by filters and anti-corrosion agents. It's actually pretty easy to flush; because unlike radiator systems all the pipes are single uninterrupted runs that start and end at the manifold, there's no need to drain anything above floor, it all happens there. It's nice not having radiators taking up floor space and creating huge hot spots, but it does require more (computer controlled?) planning to adjust the heating, since it can take 12 to 24 hours for changes to take effect. It does create a very even warmth throughout the room, though. cakesmith handyman posted:My only problem with it is I'd want it through the whole ground floor and that's just too expensive. I did the entire house. wooger posted:Underfloor heating via water pipes shouldn’t be more expensive than radiators etc, other than the initial cost of putting it in, and it’s faster than electric. Only makes financial sense if you’re doing a full refit & redoing the plumbing & floors everywhere. Agreed. Though the fit price isn't much more expensive than regular radiators if you're already gutting the existing plumbing. --- Honestly, if I did it again, it would be coin flip whether I went the same route.
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Jul 5, 2018 08:43
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If I tripped over a pile of money, how much extra depth/height would I need to redo the ground floor (currently laminate on concrete slab) with liquid underfloor heating?
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Jul 5, 2018 08:46
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