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The print quality on the prusa has been pretty impressive so far, haven't had to tweak anything and it works great as is. Still pretty drat quiet too. When it is doing a rapid movement or a 200mm/s infill move you can hear it but the rest of the time the fans are the loudest thing on it. Also the layer adhesion is worlds better than on the Monoprice Mini. I bent a test print and instead of layers separating it just bent and eventually broke as one piece.
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Jul 3, 2018 00:02
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EngineerJoe posted:My MK3 kit with the powder coated sheet was just shipped today... April 11 order date. Mine did too  somehow supposed to have it tomorrow!
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Jul 3, 2018 01:36
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I just put a thick sheet of 60grit sanded poly carbonate as a build surface and my god does stuff stick to this. I don't even need to heat my bed whatsoever and a benchy is tough to release Jestery fucked around with this message at 10:59 on Jul 3, 2018 |
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Jul 3, 2018 10:17
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Parts Kit posted:When it is doing a rapid movement or a 200mm/s infill move you can hear it but the rest of the time the fans are the loudest thing on it. For content: I thought I noticed my heated bed was taking a little long to get to temperature (12x12x1/4" MIC6 alumunim plate with silicone 750W AC heater) so I grabbed the ole thermal camera.  Looks like some of the mains-voltage-carrying resist wire in the heater have failed open circuit so only about half the heater is working. This is a 5 year old Keenovo silicone heater which I now feel like has reached a dangerous level of failure. If those open circuits are intermittent, it could start arcing and make fire. It pays to know your equipment and know when something isn't quite right and should be replaced before it starts a fire. 3D printing, a fire for every home! For the record the top does reach a pretty good equilibrium, setpoint is 95C and I'm getting 93C-97C. The stripes are bits of tape because the FLIR can't read the glass or metal temperature, it reads a reflection where there isn't tape. 
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Jul 3, 2018 15:22
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Snowy posted:Mine did too I just ordered one with with the regular steel sheet and it shipped after two weeks. Put it together and had some test prints yesterday and today. My god, the ease of assembly, quality of parts, and the firmware is amazing on this thing. I loving love it. It puts my much more expensive delta printer to shame. Anyone want to buy a kossel pro with a smoothieboard, a bond extruder, an E3Dv6, and FSR bed leveling sensors - very cheap? I've spent hours debugging this thing and I'm just giving up at this point...
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Jul 3, 2018 22:55
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CapnBry posted:Out of curiosity, what is your nozzle size, layer height, and extrusion width at 200mm/s infill? I'm just curious how much mm3/s that is to compare my own machine. 0.4mm nozzle 0.2mm height 0.45mm infill width Also thank you for reminding me to get a thermal camera, neat stuff!
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Jul 3, 2018 23:47
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Goddamn I am happy with this output for a homemade machine.  Still on the to-do list Dual blower fan Auto bed leveling software/hardware Sorting out my power supply wiring and that's always spooky I can't wait to get cooling down. I have a fast profile with that can < 1 hour benchy, I need to tune extrusion multiplyer and cooling but after that it's just tidying up wires and replacing my power supply wiring and that's always spooky
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Jul 3, 2018 23:54
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I've got two rolls of PETG inbound for the prusa, what all do I need to do aside from use the higher temp? Also, for stuff being used outside on an automobile would PETG be acceptable or should I stick with ABS? A coworker would like me to print something for his car.
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Jul 4, 2018 00:07
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Parts Kit posted:I've got two rolls of PETG inbound for the prusa, what all do I need to do aside from use the higher temp? Turn you fan down to around ~20-30% and turn off the fan for the first few layer, this is more important than with PLA other than that it's pretty similar
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Jul 4, 2018 00:33
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What kind of outside are we talking about, and what kind of environment and forces does it have to withstand? Is it a custom hood ornament or is it a new intake manifold?
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Jul 4, 2018 00:48
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Sagebrush posted:What kind of outside are we talking about, and what kind of environment and forces does it have to withstand? Is it a custom hood ornament or is it a new intake manifold? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2743743
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Jul 4, 2018 00:49
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If anyone else wants to try the Prusa ColorPrint tool be aware that the color change happens before the layer you select, not after. So you select the first layer you want to be a different color and it inserts the change command before it. It works great though!
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Jul 4, 2018 02:53
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Parts Kit posted:Nah, just a mudflap corner that isn't produced anymore but seems to fall off a lot. PETG should be fine for that.
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Jul 4, 2018 04:14
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Parts Kit posted:If anyone else wants to try the Prusa ColorPrint tool be aware that the color change happens before the layer you select, not after. So you select the first layer you want to be a different color and it inserts the change command before it. That's pretty cool, I loved the look of buttons done guy did where the text on the buttons was raised and in a contrasting color.
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Jul 4, 2018 04:52
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I found it way less useful than just editing the gcode in a text editor to add M600 to the relevant layer, but I’m glad it exists!
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Jul 4, 2018 05:06
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I got a dobot Mooz 2, and I have had nothing but problems with this thing. 
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Jul 4, 2018 22:25
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So I'm having an interesting time trying to figure out how to get the z dimension of my printer dialed in. Calibration cubes and some prints will print too short like a 20mm high cube is ~16mm. I spent a lot of time looking online how to get it properly fixed, it seems that calibrating based on a print isn't an accurate way to fix it. The proper way seems to use a calculator with the z stepper motor specs. In this case though I'm using the original stepper motor from the MP Mini Select V2 so the default value should work right? Are there any other things I should look at for why the height of my prints are being funky?
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Jul 5, 2018 01:19
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Gentlemen! Do you have a Corsair K70 RGB Rapidfire keyboard?  Do you have a very large cat?  Does that very large cat likes sleep under your monitor and lean up against your keyboard while you play video games?  Then do I have the product for you! Introducing the Key-border™  A 3d printable object designed for this exact keyboard and this very specific problem.  Keeps Pickles the cat off of your Corsair keyboard!  Well... mostly.
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Jul 5, 2018 02:35
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That Gobbo posted:So I'm having an interesting time trying to figure out how to get the z dimension of my printer dialed in. Calibration cubes and some prints will print too short like a 20mm high cube is ~16mm. I spent a lot of time looking online how to get it properly fixed, it seems that calibrating based on a print isn't an accurate way to fix it. The proper way seems to use a calculator with the z stepper motor specs. In this case though I'm using the original stepper motor from the MP Mini Select V2 so the default value should work right? Are there any other things I should look at for why the height of my prints are being funky? If only some prints are wrong and the rest are correct, you've either got a slicer problem or your z-motor is skipping steps. Recalculate the appropriate value for your z-axis steps per mm and verify that it's what's set in M501. Find an object of known thickness like a 1-2-3 block, bring your extruder down to the surface of the bed, do G92 Z0, command a G1 Z25.4 F200 (or whatever is the height of your object), and verify that the movement was correct. If it's still hosed up after that, time to start looking at mechanical or electrical problems.
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Jul 5, 2018 03:25
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Lowen SoDium posted:
Better than most kickstarters I’ve seen.
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Jul 5, 2018 07:58
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I just joined the club with a MP Mini Select V2 and am currently in the process of printing out that cat sample. It's so cute how the motors sound like its playing a tune with all the movements. Seeing as it's made it's way all the way down to Australia, the layers are looking pretty drat good, the future is pretty awesome.
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Jul 5, 2018 08:52
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Any idea why the Prusa Mk2S would be homing the X axis (possibly Y axis as well) after each layer finishes? It's not something I've ever noticed it do before and I have no idea why it's doing it. It's not really a problem, I'm just confused by it.
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Jul 5, 2018 16:09
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Luminaflare posted:Any idea why the Prusa Mk2S would be homing the X axis (possibly Y axis as well) after each layer finishes? It's not something I've ever noticed it do before and I have no idea why it's doing it. It's not really a problem, I'm just confused by it. Are you using webcam software like octolapse?
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Jul 5, 2018 17:12
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Do 3d printed gears work up to 6,000 rpm? I'm thinking of printing 5 of these on my uni free (including materials!) LulzBot TAZ 6 The goal is to convert a food processor with a broken gear train into a reasonable speed for churning ice cream, about 30 rpm. Depending on how bogged down the motor gets with the load, that could be 4 or 5 3x reductions. If the first stage would get worn out too quickly at 6,000ish rpm, I'll look into laser cutting the gears from Ponoko, but free is always nice.
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Jul 5, 2018 17:19
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BrianBoitano posted:Do 3d printed gears work up to 6,000 rpm? For some finite number of r, yes, definitely Print them in nylon for best toughness and wear resistance. e: I'd be less worried about spinning the gears quickly and more about stripping off teeth in the final stages when the torque has been multiplied several times.
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Jul 5, 2018 17:50
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Luminaflare posted:Any idea why the Prusa Mk2S would be homing the X axis (possibly Y axis as well) after each layer finishes? It's not something I've ever noticed it do before and I have no idea why it's doing it. It's not really a problem, I'm just confused by it. Octolapse does that if you have it set to take a picture with the print head in a specific position after so many layers/every layer/whatever. It isn't a problem if you're using a filament you have well dialed-in, but if you do it on something that likes to ooze a lot it can make your prints fairly ugly.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:02
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Thanks. Any tips for tooth shearing? Churning ice cream requires a decent amount of torque. My uni only uses PLA or nGen. From what I can find online, both are fine to use with CA glue, so I could give them a coat of that to toughen them up, right? Would a thin epoxy work better?
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Jul 5, 2018 18:07
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What are the original gears made of?
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Jul 5, 2018 18:11
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The one mounted on the motor is metal. It is the "sun" in a planetary gear, and the planets look like nylon. The planetary output connects to a is sealed gearbox that is broken. So at most I could use the planetary gearbox for a ~3x reduction in speed, but I was going to replace even that since I'd rather not figure out too many couplings. I'll send pictures when I get home.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:18
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Just try it. The worst thing that can happen is your gear breaks that you paid nothing for.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:21
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BrianBoitano posted:Thanks. Any tips for tooth shearing? Churning ice cream requires a decent amount of torque. Larger root will help shear, also helical or herringbone profile, and wider gears as well. That said I wouldn't be too worried, and I say just build it. I'd also recommend a look at the YouTube channel gear down for what. It should give you some inspiration with how other people do printed gearboxes. Another to look at would be the openrc gearboxes, which would be in that neighborhood of motor speed. You can even combine small teeth for high speed reduction with large teeth for torque on compound gears, just like a commercial gearbox.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:26
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Reprinting the spinning 22lr dispenser I found a while back and printed on my Monoprice Mini and the results so far with the prusa are leagues above in like half the time. It's great, I can print twice the quality in half the time! Or print at the same quality for a quarter of the time!  BMan posted:Just try it. The worst thing that can happen is your gear breaks that you paid nothing for.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:33
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BMan posted:Just try it. The worst thing that can happen is your gear breaks that you paid nothing for. 
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Jul 5, 2018 18:36
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Yeah and if the model is great but durability sucks, order the STL from Shapeways in steel if you don't mind spending a little.
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Jul 5, 2018 19:20
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Parts Kit posted:Reprinting the spinning 22lr dispenser I found a while back and printed on my Monoprice Mini and the results so far with the prusa are leagues above in like half the time. That's pretty cool! I didn't know thingiverse had a 22LR category, there's some cool stuff there. I had some shooting tools there and they nailed me for violating ToS years ago under the "the world has enough weapons, never mind that what you're doing is an olympic sport" clause
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Jul 5, 2018 19:25
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Octolapse does that if you have it set to take a picture with the print head in a specific position after so many layers/every layer/whatever. EngineerJoe posted:Are you using webcam software like octolapse? Nope. No webcam or anything, just printing from SD card.
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Jul 5, 2018 20:09
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Mister Sinewave posted:That's pretty cool! I didn't know thingiverse had a 22LR category, there's some cool stuff there.  But there's definitely a lot of cool poo poo on thingiverse to muck about with. Someone even has some 4x5 graflex boards up, which is "thank you god" turf because those things can be obnoxious as poo poo to find in the right hole size.
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Jul 5, 2018 21:34
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Parts Kit posted:Yeah I remember you've done some rad stuff in tfr over the years. There's some target shooting stuff on thingiverse if you search by the model/make of what you're looking for, but I don't know about their policy on it. What blows my mind is there are 22lr silencer models there, which for the non-tfr folks means instant felony time. Yeah they can’t be curating it too tightly if they’re letting several .22lr suppressor models sit there out in the open for a year Or I guess everyone that printed those models could’ve done the $200 tax stamp and 6+ month wait for the ATF to say they could 3d print a $0.60 part v  v
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Jul 5, 2018 21:51
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DarkHorse posted:Yeah they can’t be curating it too tightly if they’re letting several .22lr suppressor models sit there out in the open for a year No they're just all from New Zealand
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Jul 5, 2018 22:01
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I'm printing out the spare mag for a CZ right now, because it also fits (or should fit) the KKW trainer (which I'm using at a local competition next week)
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Jul 5, 2018 22:58
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