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STR posted:A hot day doing 80ish shouldn't phase any car. By "hot" I'm talking more along the lines of your engine temp gauge being decently past the halfway mark. Thanks for the perspective. I called him back today and he said something about getting no compression in the cylinders. I guess he took the spark plugs off and tried forcing air in. I asked if it was possible that the valves were open and he said that was possible. I haven’t read anywhere that pressuring the cylinders is a good test, but thinking about it it seems like one cylinder should have valves shut at all times. Any clue if I should take his compression test seriously? Also, how would damage even happen in a non interference engine?
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Jul 5, 2018 19:22
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A standard compression test involves cranking the engine with a pressure gauge in the spark plug hole, what your guy is doing sounds more like a leakdown test. If he did it properly, it would be done by rotating the crank to put each cylinder at TDC before testing it. Regardless, I can't see how you'd do either with a broken belt. For the interference thing, other posters are saying that one of the valve seats could have fallen out and bounced around, eventually causing enough damage to snap the belt. In that case the belt breaking is a symptom, not the root cause, and the engine would be trashed. That's why what you need right now is a visual inspection, either via borescope or by pulling the head off.
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Jul 5, 2018 19:31
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This guy sounds like a full on moron. You already pointed out the flaw in his methodology:Pope Hilarius posted:Thanks for the perspective. I called him back today and he said something about getting no compression in the cylinders. I guess he took the spark plugs off and tried forcing air in. I asked if it was possible that the valves were open and he said that was possible. A leakdown test is not inherently wrong in this situation, but the only way to do it properly would be to manually rotate both the crank and the cam such that the piston is at/near TDC, and the valves both should be closed. The fact that he responded "was possible" instead of saying "I rotated the cam..." tells me he did not verify cam position at all. If both the cam and crank are in the correct positions and the engine is healthy, leakdown should be normal. If it starts blowing air through the intake or exhaust, a valve and/or seat is toast. quote:Also, how would damage even happen in a non interference engine? At higher RPMs valve control is less exact. The valvesprings for the engine were almost certainly selected to have the lowest possible seat pressure (for lower friction and longer component life). The engine may not be full on into valve float at high RPM, but the valve closing event could 'lag' the cam ever so slightly and put the valve within reach of the piston.
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Jul 5, 2018 19:49
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I just bought a '17 Tiguan and I'm not knowledgable about VW at all. Is there such thing as a printed service manual for this vehicle? I've been able to find service manual on DVD but only for '09.
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Jul 5, 2018 20:17
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IOwnCalculus posted:At higher RPMs valve control is less exact. The valvesprings for the engine were almost certainly selected to have the lowest possible seat pressure (for lower friction and longer component life). The engine may not be full on into valve float at high RPM, but the valve closing event could 'lag' the cam ever so slightly and put the valve within reach of the piston. Doesn't that by definition make it an interference engine?
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Jul 5, 2018 21:34
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Yeah, unless a spring broke and let the valve drop too far, a non-interference design would never be able to have that happen. Maybe if it was severely over-revved but not while "just driving along".
Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 21:39
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My Rhythmic Crotch posted:I just bought a '17 Tiguan and I'm not knowledgable about VW at all. Is there such thing as a printed service manual for this vehicle? I've been able to find service manual on DVD but only for '09. Quoting myself... VW has this weird online system called Erwin, you pay $35 and download a buttload of PDFs that are designed for dealerships. Better than nothing I guess.
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Jul 5, 2018 23:29
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totalnewbie posted:Doesn't that by definition make it an interference engine? Enourmo posted:Yeah, unless a spring broke and let the valve drop too far, a non-interference design would never be able to have that happen. Maybe if it was severely over-revved but not while "just driving along". Derp. You're both right but I know I've heard of non-interference engines having a bad time if the belt lets go near redline. The more I think about it, the more likely I think it is that in those cases: Enourmo posted:the belt breaking is a symptom, not the root cause
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Jul 5, 2018 23:35
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I picked up a screw right at the edge of my tread. Reputable tire shops won't touch it, friends and family advise that big tire is out to screw me and I should patch it myself with the ropey kit with a T-handle. Leak is pretty slow, as the first time it triggered TPMS I looked at the tire, couldn't find it then, and it took 2 more weeks to trigger TMPS again. Patch it myself or buy 1 new tire of matching brand and model? Tires are only 7 months / 6000 miles old.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:00
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Did you buy road hazard with the tires? If so, use it, this is exactly what it's for.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:38
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Schwab has patched poo poo for me in that exact position.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:44
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STR posted:Did you buy road hazard with the tires? If so, use it, this is exactly what it's for. Nope. I should have specified, whole car is a 1 liter Fiesta Hatchback 7 months / 6000 miles old, and I declined all of the dealer upsells. Ford's tire warranty specifically excludes road hazard because they want you to buy their expensive premium total car protection plan. I'll go ahead and patch it myself if it's safe.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:50
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Shops don't patch there for a reason, that's where all the sidewall flex happens as the wheel spins around. Patches could peel off at any time. If you're comfortable with the chance of the patch failing and the tire rapidly depressurizing, feel free, but I wouldn't recommend it.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:55
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Twerk from Home posted:I picked up a screw right at the edge of my tread. Reputable tire shops won't touch it, friends and family advise that big tire is out to screw me and I should patch it myself with the ropey kit with a T-handle. Leak is pretty slow, as the first time it triggered TPMS I looked at the tire, couldn't find it then, and it took 2 more weeks to trigger TMPS again. That's waaaay too close to the sidewall for a plug. Time for a new tire. VVV trust me. Rope plugs can & do leak, especially in ares of high flex. It's just rubber cement & crap that swells. If you insist on plugging it, at least, rotate it to the rear axle. VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 03:29
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Enourmo posted:Shops don't patch there for a reason, that's where all the sidewall flex happens as the wheel spins around. Patches could peel off at any time. I thought the twisty rope plugs with rubber cement pretty much bond it at a molecular level or something. If you shove the rope all the way in I can't possibly imagine how it would work its way back out, the hole is squeezing the rope from all sides and the cement would give a huge surface area for the bond. I'm no tire scientist but I've patched nails in the same general area with no problems.
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Jul 6, 2018 03:29
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<dad> Those tyres are the only things keeping you on the road. Is your life really worth the cost of a single tyre? </dad>
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Jul 6, 2018 09:11
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Twerk from Home posted:Patch it myself or buy 1 new tire of matching brand and model? Tires are only 7 months / 6000 miles old. Buy a single new tire. Don't waste your time patching this one. RE: broken timing belt The mechanic is obviously not trying to fix the car and wants to sell you a motor or get your car out of his shop. Pay to have it towed elsewhere after calling around to find someone who's willing to give it a proper shakedown. I've had mechanics like this too, I think some guys just don't want anything other than "easy" jobs. Nothing that takes up a lift and requires actual thinking. It's ridiculous that you even have to suggest the tests to do. He should have called and said "we found your broken timing belt, ran tests X, Y and Z to determine extent of damage and here is a series of prices to fix it, it'll be ready monday"
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Jul 6, 2018 12:38
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spog posted:<dad> Thanks guys. I'll buy a new tire. My own dad is actually the loudest voice in my life saying "Patch that poo poo! Don't be a wuss." He's been repairing his own tires on his leases for the last couple years, because he lives in a construction zone and picks up pretty gnarly tire damage like this or worse that shops won't fix and he has the attitude of "No way in hell am I going to pay for a tire on this lease I'm about to return". Side node, you're insane if you think that CPO lease returns are somehow better than any other used car.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:07
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just another posted:I have a 2008 Subaru Outback with those round Yakima roof rack bars and a Yakima Skybox 18 cargo box. My GUESS is you'd be fine. Keep the weight as close to the supports as possible, and keep it approximately balanced side-to-side and front-to-back. Tie everything down very well, movement / vibration will cause nasty problems (nasty as in bye-bye boat). If you can fill the Skybox with only large, bulky, light-weight things (think paddles, PFDs, other awkward-shaped things) that will keep the weight on top down; heavy stuff (clothes, food, camping gear if you're camping) goes inside the vehicle. An Outback can hold a decent amount, you might not even need the Skybox at all if you're good at luggage Tetris. And regardless, don't drive like an idiot, and don't forget about the wind-sail on your roof. Avoid underground / multilevel parking lots. How's your car overall? A 5000km trip should be no trouble at all, but it's nice peace-of-mind to have an oil change (with 40 point inspection! or whatever the shop offers) or a pre-trip inspection (brakes, fluids, error codes, funny smells if your mechanic is better than average) before you set out. Where are you going? From your mixture of imperial (lbs) and metric (km) I'm guessing you're in  East, West, or Middle? please say North, and not mean "Barrie"
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Jul 6, 2018 14:34
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MY WIFE really likes the Honda HR-V and is considering it for our possible next (shared) car. I dig it but I'm having a hard time seeing how it's substantially different than the CR-V though from a casual driver's perspective - they seem to have roughly the same interior space, body size, gas mileage, and both have AWD. The HR-V has a kinda swept back look that makes it look more wagony and less SUV-ish is the biggest difference I can tell. But what the hell do I know, I'm decent at fixing stuff but I know jack poo poo about car makes and models. The reason it matters is that the CR-V has been around longer and has a bigger, cheaper used market. So does anyone who knows a lot about Hondæ have any comments about what the differences are other than aesthetic? I mean if she loves it for aesthetic reasons and knowingly wants to pay a premium for that, that's fine with me, I just want to know if there are any major differences to consider too.
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Jul 6, 2018 15:42
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Are you shopping new HR-V vs used CR-V, because the HR-V should be cheaper if you're comparing apples to apples. The HR-V is to the Fit what the CR-V is to the Civic. So no, it hasn't 'been around' as long as the CR-V, but it's a Honda, and it's not like they did anything new or crazy with it.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:18
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I'm shopping used vs used, but the HR-V has only existed (in the US) for a few years, so generally speaking it is easier to find CR-Vs in decent shape for cheaper just because it's been a popular car for many years and so there are many more of them out there, more competitive resale market, more likely to find a good deal, etc.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:34
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My 85 Jeep needs a catalytic converter. Do California-certified cats typically work better than 49-state cats? I'm in New Mexico so I could use 49-state, but I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C565U6G which seems like a pretty reasonable price if it'll do a better job cleaning the exhaust.
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Jul 6, 2018 17:40
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Pham Nuwen posted:My 85 Jeep needs a catalytic converter. Do California-certified cats typically work better than 49-state cats? I'm in New Mexico so I could use 49-state, but I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C565U6G which seems like a pretty reasonable price if it'll do a better job cleaning the exhaust. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXWVHQcYqms
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Jul 6, 2018 18:56
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 The face of a man with very strong opinions on CARB compliance.
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Jul 6, 2018 19:17
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Ok, so looks like longer life and it's been subjected to more tests. Might go with it, but after getting under the Jeep I find that the front section of the exhaust is 1 7/8" OD, while that cat is 2" ID. I was planning to have a shop weld it in; is that small difference something they'll be able to handle easily, or do I want to get something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-7-8-1-875-ID-to-2-OD-Universal-Exhaust-Pipe-to-Component-Adapter-Reducer/171153687847 to bring in with it?
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Jul 6, 2018 21:13
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Pham Nuwen posted:Ok, so looks like longer life and it's been subjected to more tests. Might go with it, but after getting under the Jeep I find that the front section of the exhaust is 1 7/8" OD, while that cat is 2" ID. I was planning to have a shop weld it in; is that small difference something they'll be able to handle easily, or do I want to get something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-7-8-1-875-ID-to-2-OD-Universal-Exhaust-Pipe-to-Component-Adapter-Reducer/171153687847 to bring in with it? Shop should be able to deal with it. If they're being lazy or are a bad shop then they might be a pain about it.
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Jul 6, 2018 21:28
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builds character posted:Shop should be able to deal with it. If they're being lazy or are a bad shop then they might be a pain about it. Got the guy on the phone again, he said it's no trouble.
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Jul 6, 2018 22:09
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Anyone know a Torque converter re-manufacturer? Apparently no one in North America has my 89 Golf's torque converter and mine is pretty sludged up. It's a 010 trans with a K stamped converter.
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Jul 7, 2018 01:04
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Anybody know where the oxygen sensor comes out of the harness on an 85 CJ-7? I've looked for loose wires in the vicinity but turned up nothing.
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Jul 7, 2018 23:09
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X-posting from the Volvo thread for better exposure: I've been chasing hard-starting and the "Reduced engine performance" error for many months now, but recently it became worse. The car stumbles and has stalled, and is currently actively misfiring. All components read and test ok with scan tool, so a visual inspection was in order. In the depths of piping surrounding the RPM/crankshaft position sensor, I was able to discover that the mounting bracket was broken and mostly missing. So though the sensor seemed to test ok, it was not steady. Replacement of the bracket is in order. Removing the front bolt was a royal pain, but the rear bolt seems impossible. There is no space between the bolt head and a casting bump on the bellhousing. Does removing the RPM sensor bracket require removing the transmission? Did I find the bolt the car was built around?   tl;dr: How do I remove bolt? edit: To add that this is the same 2005 S60 2.5T I have previously posted about, though it's not strictly relevent to impossible bolt removals
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Jul 7, 2018 23:41
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2000 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder (F23A4, i think.) Original flex pipe gave out in lat November/early December last year and I had the flex pipe replaced on Dec. 3. They told me the Cat was bad (rattled when hit, clearly failed) and I had them replace that a couple of weeks later. Starting a couple of weeks ago, the exhaust got loud again and I have to run windows closed, air on recirculate to avoid gassing myself. Put it up on ramps today and the braided metal part of the flex pipe is split at the downstream end. I need to fix this regardless, but with the flex pipe failing after only 8 months, is it reasonable for me to expect them to fix it for no charge?
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Jul 8, 2018 20:12
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At the very least the part should be under a warranty if there is no signs of impact damage. Labor warranty could be hit or miss depending on the shop.
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Jul 8, 2018 20:18
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2003 Golf TDI I was looking for the TPS on my car (if anyone knows where it is, please tell me!), but came across this oddity instead. It looks like the rubber washer on this air(??) hose is too big to allow these parts to be connected correctly. The 'backwards J' shaped pipe is more rigid than it looks, but it does have some flex. Does anyone know what the involved parts are, and what a potential solution might be?  
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Jul 8, 2018 20:33
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DavidAlltheTime posted:2003 Golf TDI The TPS will be inside the pedal module. That guy is the valve cover breather, which recirculates gases from the engine back into your intake so they get burned. AKA Crank Case Ventilation (CCV) It's supposed to be there, and the rubber o-ring is supposed to be there but it looks like the clip has broken off. You can get a new one, VW part number should be 038103493AC.
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Jul 8, 2018 20:51
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Stupid question: the folks just bought a Honda. Is there a reputable site for OE and aftermarket parts and accessories? I'm looking for the equivalent of ECS Tuning for VAG cars. Specifically, looking for floor mats, but would like to browse to see what other things are out there.
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Jul 9, 2018 00:54
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Uthor posted:Stupid question: the folks just bought a Honda. Is there a reputable site for OE and aftermarket parts and accessories? I'm looking for the equivalent of ECS Tuning for VAG cars. Specifically, looking for floor mats, but would like to browse to see what other things are out there. I dunno about floor mats, but the Honda aftermarket is loving bananas. K-tuned is probably one of the bigger names.
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Jul 9, 2018 01:13
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PaintVagrant posted:I dunno about floor mats, but the Honda aftermarket is loving bananas. K-tuned is probably one of the bigger names. Thanks, but I think that site is a little overkill for a couple of retirees with a CR-V. 
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Jul 9, 2018 01:38
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Ah. Well you said ECS tuning so I assumed Mom and dad wanted a 10-second CRV
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Jul 9, 2018 02:01
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Fair enough. I just use ECS Tuning for cosmetic mods and replacement parts. 
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Jul 9, 2018 02:05
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