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Aniodia posted:From one of the Facebook groups I lurk in, someone mentioned buying the .stl file from HeroForge and using Impact Miniatures to actually print it out. You wouldn't happen to know how to actually submit the .stl file to Impact, would you? Their site is...not exactly helpful. Slimnoid fucked around with this message at 23:02 on Jul 9, 2018 |
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Jul 9, 2018 22:35
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Ok, for when 40K Killteam comes out, I'm going to make a chapter of female Space Marines. I figured I would wait until the actual rulebooks come out to actually build the team but in the meantime, lets paint and prototype a Space Marine. So I was inspired by a photo of someone's other chapter they made that I thought was cool. Black base with this ice blue/neon blue trim So. I wanted to copy that but go purple instead of blue. Off the bat the purple I used is way to dark for a black base. I had to fidget with the lamp I'm using in these shots to get the color to pop. I gotta go for something that is brighter but not dulled down to much. I want this bold purple. As for little detail, I still need work, especially the eyes. This was also my first try at painting on the Tactical Logo instead of using a transfer.    Any advice people can give me would be appreciated.
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Jul 10, 2018 02:37
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It's looking great for a first attempt so far. You need to trim your mold lines though - the seams stick out like a sore thumb - and drill your gun barrels if you can get your hand on a pin drill, your models will look much better for it. Your paint doesn't seem to be too thick, but it is a bit patchy. Typically you'll want to thin your paint and do two or three coats of the same color to get good coverage without losing detail - it's tedious, but the results are worth it. The next thing you'll want to do is use a shade on the recesses to bring out all the detail - I'd say Nuln Oil because it'll go well with both the purple and the silver. A shade will darken down the colors you've already done though, so after you do, do a layer of your original colors over the higher areas to add more definition to them. One of the best resources available for learning to paint is the Warhammer TV painting guides - https://www.youtube.com/user/GamesWorkshopWNT/videos They break it down into easy to follow steps that're useful for beginning and advanced painters, and you can pick up ideas for color combinations or neat tricks that you might not otherwise think of. Your linework looks really clean so far, good job keeping your hands steady, and keep posting your stuff!
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Jul 10, 2018 03:01
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Slimnoid posted:You wouldn't happen to know how to actually submit the .stl file to Impact, would you? Their site is...not exactly helpful. Unfortunately, I don't. Not gonna lie, I'm not terribly literate in the whole 3d printing process, nor do I really have any local friends who I could bug for help. All else fails, try their support email and ask there? 
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Jul 10, 2018 03:31
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Stephenls posted:I also have Vallejo grey primer and while I've never been impressed with its coverage, what you describe is much worse than anything I've experienced. I suspect you're right, and it's your bottle that's the problem. Thanks for the feedback, I think I'm just going to ditch the bottle.
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Jul 10, 2018 03:58
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BigRed0427 posted:Ok, for when 40K Killteam comes out, I'm going to make a chapter of female Space Marines. I figured I would wait until the actual rulebooks come out to actually build the team but in the meantime, lets paint and prototype a Space Marine. Proper purple is really hard to get to pop, the real trick is in the highlights. Your base is probably the right shade of purple, but you'll need to get some really bright pink/violet to do your edge highlights to get it to really stand out, especially next to black. My marines are all purple and they look super dark until I do an edge highlight and then suddenly the color comes out. It's weird.  What paints are you using? For my marines I use a base of GW Xereus Purple, shaded with Druchii Violet, highlight of Genestealer Purple, and then a final edge highlight with Dechala Lilac.
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Jul 10, 2018 04:00
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Deviant posted:If I want to clear coat before a wash to aid with flow, can I just use a spray can gloss varnish? i see people doing airbrush voodoo with furniture polish and stuff and i'm not down for buying more equipment. Requoting for new page because i think it got lost Oh, also, where should I buy from online? Amazon wants to ruin me on shipping.
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Jul 10, 2018 04:07
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darnon posted:The Reaper Master Series Paint Starter set appears to cover a good chunk of the spectrum but no included brushes or minis. The ones with figs tend to skip some basic color or another. I'm probably going with this one because its got a couple brushes, minis for practice and a little instruction book to get me started and go from there.
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Jul 10, 2018 06:07
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I started with that one and can highly recommend it.
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Jul 10, 2018 06:11
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Aniodia posted:Unfortunately, I don't. Not gonna lie, I'm not terribly literate in the whole 3d printing process, nor do I really have any local friends who I could bug for help. All else fails, try their support email and ask there? If you do run across the post/group again do let us know. That model looks so crisp compared to stuff directly from HeroForge.
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Jul 10, 2018 10:50
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Bucnasti posted:Proper purple is really hard to get to pop, the real trick is in the highlights. Your base is probably the right shade of purple, but you'll need to get some really bright pink/violet to do your edge highlights to get it to really stand out, especially next to black. For the black I used a spray of Army Painter's Matt Black Primer (The reason the pads look a little splotchy is because I went over areas I missed or accidentally got purple on with Abadon Black) and the purple is Naggaroth Night.
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Jul 10, 2018 11:16
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Finally finished the rest of this box of custodes. The problem with going the extra mile for the bases on the regular guys in an army, is I have to go the extra extra mile for the bases on the HQs. Fortunately Brother Castor, the worlds most generic named space marine, was there to lay down his life and turn into a statue for my shield captains base.  
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Jul 10, 2018 11:34
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Does this mean your trajan will have to be on a 6" tall finely sculpted waterfall to convey that he is even fancier than a Captain? EDIT: Also, your dudes look great. The bone and gold are a great scheme and really makes the gold pop nicely.
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Jul 10, 2018 11:58
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He'll just have to be usable as sufficient terrain to fill a 2x2 section of a table.
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Jul 10, 2018 13:38
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 Other than snapping the banner top off and subsequently losing it, I'm quite happy with this guy.
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Jul 10, 2018 14:45
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Arson Fire posted:Finally finished the rest of this box of custodes. These guys are dope as hell. The buried Marine statue is a neat touch.
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Jul 10, 2018 16:52
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Arthil posted:If you do run across the post/group again do let us know. That model looks so crisp compared to stuff directly from HeroForge. Just asked the guy who originally posted that picture, and he said he just got in touch with Impact Minis through Facebook Messenger. Simple enough, I guess.
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Jul 10, 2018 17:34
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I just finished up the first 3 Nighthaunts from my starter set. These guys are fragile as hell but very fun to paint. I suppose I could get a smoother gradation for the spectral areas by wet blending more but I haven't done that much before. Has anyone used Nihilak Oxide as a was before? Its used in an older Nighthaunts painting guide GW put out but its pretty thick in the pot so I'm not sure how it would go.  
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Jul 10, 2018 18:08
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I've used Nihilakh Oxide as a wash to paint a ghost miniature a while back. While it's thin enough out of the pot to be used as a wash, I'd say it's got a fair bit more pigment in it than normal washes. It's also a bit brighter than most washes. I painted it over white to get a semi-shaded base colour, then highlighted and shaded with other colours from there. Unfortunately I don't have a picture of that mini on me right now. Arson Fire fucked around with this message at 11:45 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 11:38
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Hmm, I think I'll give it a try with a little thinning. Sounds like it would help make the ghostly parts less flat.
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Jul 11, 2018 12:28
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Chance II posted:Hmm, I think I'll give it a try with a little thinning. Sounds like it would help make the ghostly parts less flat. Honestly I'd recommend picking up Secret Weapon green wash instead, it's super cheap and it'll do the job a hell of a lot better
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Jul 11, 2018 12:33
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After months of picking away at this, i'm finally getting somewhere  Suitably gross
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Jul 11, 2018 12:59
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Sorry for asking here but I'm on my phone and it's not easy to search The Something Awful Forums on it. Where's the scale modeling thread and also where can I learn about Killteam?
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Jul 11, 2018 13:44
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Furism posted:Sorry for asking here but I'm on my phone and it's not easy to search The Something Awful Forums on it. Where's the scale modeling thread and also where can I learn about Killteam? The scale modeling thread is here
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Jul 11, 2018 13:57
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Furism posted:Sorry for asking here but I'm on my phone and it's not easy to search The Something Awful Forums on it. Where's the scale modeling thread and also where can I learn about Killteam? As for Kill Team, start here and then move onto the growing faction focus here.
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Jul 11, 2018 14:19
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Skarsnik posted:After months of picking away at this, i'm finally getting somewhere Sicc as hell. How'd you do the flesh?
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Jul 11, 2018 14:41
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A pretty simple recipe, one I used on a nurgle lord a while back, just took bloody ages because of the size Rakarth flesh airbrushed on, then a thin layer of kislev brushed all over. Thinned reikland fleshshade all over, and then a more targeted application neat into all the deep folds Thin blended layers with screaming skull was the horribly dull long bit, but then it gave me a base to have fun on. Everything past that point is washes and glazes, with no real plan in mind
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Jul 11, 2018 16:12
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Why the heck won't this citadel texture paint (Valhallan Blizzard) stick to my base?
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Jul 11, 2018 16:20
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Has the base been primed or otherwise painted first? It might need more to grab onto if it's just a bare base. So primer or some basing paste with texture to it like Black Lava.
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Jul 11, 2018 16:23
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darnon posted:Has the base been primed or otherwise painted first? It might need more to grab onto if it's just a bare base. So primer or some basing paste with texture to it like Black Lava. It got primed along with the model, but that's it. I thought the snow could be used alone, I'm doing star wars snowtroopers. Edit: should i lay down a different texture paint, then use the snow as an accent? Deviant fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 16:26
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NTRabbit posted:The scale modeling thread is here Cooked Auto posted:As for Kill Team, start here and then move onto the growing faction focus here. Thanks a lot!
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Jul 11, 2018 16:43
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Okay, yeah, I see the problem. I was expecting Valhallan Blizzard to work like the other texture paints, when it's more snowy. A bit of stirland mud and some white paint, and my guy has a sufficiently mudstompy looking snow base. Edit: My beautiful snowy boy. 
Deviant fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 17:08
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Deviant posted:Okay, yeah, I see the problem. I was expecting Valhallan Blizzard to work like the other texture paints, when it's more snowy. A bit of stirland mud and some white paint, and my guy has a sufficiently mudstompy looking snow base. I find that I almost need to use a wide brush like a trowel to get it out of the pot and spread it around. Nevertheless, I love snow bases and enjoy seeing others doing them too.
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Jul 11, 2018 17:29
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Legendary Ptarmigan posted:I find that I almost need to use a wide brush like a trowel to get it out of the pot and spread it around. Nevertheless, I love snow bases and enjoy seeing others doing them too. I found that wasn't stiff enough. I ended up using an exacto blade, and i'm gonna probably get a sculpting spatula thingy. Relatedly, I'm gonna repost a few questions that got lost on the last page: 1) If I want to gloss a model before washing it to aid with the flow, is a standard rattlecan gloss okay? 2) What's the best brush on matte and gloss? Someone like snowy boy here i'd like to differntiate fabric and armor. 3) Where would you buy the items in 2?
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Jul 11, 2018 17:53
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I use an old oil paint spatula for gw texture paint. I couldn't get it to work right with just a brush without making a mess.
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Jul 11, 2018 17:57
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For gloss Pledge Future is great and has a bunch of uses. It's usually stocked with floor wax and the like. For matte varnish I use a big bottle of Liquitex. Art stores will stock it or Amazon. Unless you're opposed to the place for political reasons Hobby Lobby is a good place to get it since you can get a 40% off one item coupon every day.
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Jul 11, 2018 18:07
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darnon posted:For gloss Pledge Future is great and has a bunch of uses. It's usually stocked with floor wax and the like. For matte varnish I use a big bottle of Liquitex. Art stores will stock it or Amazon. Unless you're opposed to the place for political reasons Hobby Lobby is a good place to get it since you can get a 40% off one item coupon every day. Doesn't future have to be run through an airbrush? And that won't stick long term, right? Or does it 'dry' like a rattlecan gloss would? https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Pledge-Floor-Multi-Surface-Finish/dp/B000ARPH4C/ This stuff? The reason I ask if i can use a rattle can gloss pre wash is because I already have it laying around. Deviant fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jul 11, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 18:16
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Every arts and crafts store has 40% off one item or 30% off total purchase coupons freely available if you don't want to give money to christian conspiracy theorists who fund islamic extremism. Not like Hobby Lobby's prices and deals are better than any other big box craft store. Future can be brushed on, it's just handy because it's super cheap and thin enough to easily go through airbrushes without any more prep. It has the same properties as any other acrylic gloss varnish. Rattlecan gloss should be fine, as long as you give it plenty of time to cure before doing your wash.
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Jul 11, 2018 18:23
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It dries fine like a regular gloss and goes on with a brush. Typically that's how I apply it anyways when final sealing a model so I can get even, complete coverage. It'll fog a little if you go too thick in some area, but I've always had it clear it up after fully drying.
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Jul 11, 2018 18:24
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Preem Palver posted:christian conspiracy theorists who fund islamic extremism
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Jul 11, 2018 18:58
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