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Hello, 2014 Kia Forte EX GDI Recently had the front brake pads replaced. Noticed after I was still hearing a scraping/rubbing sound from the back. Since the brake job, I've taken it to my mechanic twice and he said he cannot find any reason why it is making noise. I think the problem is that often times you have to drive for a little bit before the noise starts. So, a short test drive isn't going to do justice when compared to when I pull into the driveway after a 45 minute drive. The pads on he front are brand new, and the back pads were replaced within the last year and still look fine. The noise is on and off, sometimes while braking... sometimes while at low speeds. I did some research, and thought maybe the dust shield was hitting the rotors, so I took a flat head and pushed them back a little bit. This seems to have been a horrible idea, as now the sound is worse. Any ideas on what this could be, what I should check for, or how should I do to fix it? If I can try some simple fixes tomorrow, but if not I'm going to take it into the dealership for a second opinion.
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Jul 15, 2018 02:57
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Vital Signs posted:Hello, Well, I'm no car guy (see above), but if moving the dust shields made the noise worse, it stands to reason they're the source. Bending it in one place may have moved the offending section closer. If they're rubbing, there's probably some sort of wear visible on them somewhere.
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Jul 15, 2018 03:48
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Pyroclastic posted:Well, I'm no car guy (see above), but if moving the dust shields made the noise worse, it stands to reason they're the source. Bending it in one place may have moved the offending section closer. If they're rubbing, there's probably some sort of wear visible on them somewhere.
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Jul 15, 2018 04:33
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A dab of high temp silicone under the shield, then a stainless hose clamp a day later? E: didn't read it was a brake shield.
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Jul 15, 2018 04:56
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Can a bad engine mount cause cylinder misfires? I noticed my engine was vibrating pretty badly at idle and under drive, but when the check engine light came on after driving a bit, I got misfire codes. I was thinking that the excess vibration would cause the misfire codes to trip but it's just as likely misfires are also causing the vibration. Thoughts?
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Jul 15, 2018 05:35
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Godholio posted:I can spin the tires into second gear on a dyno-reported 205 hp Chevy 327 (gross rated 300hp). '66 Corvette on 215/70R-15. My 140 hp Saturn has no problem spinning the tires into 2nd, and chirping them going into 3rd. ... though it's on 195/60R15s. And there may be a bit of clutch abuse going on to do that.  Unless you're going to the track, there's not that much use for 600+ hp. Unless you're MrYenko and like to do block-long burnouts. Hell, a CAMRY that I test drove (V6, 5 speed manual) was absolutely useless in 1st gear, and would still light up the tires if you gave it the beans in 2nd. I'm sure part of that was the dry rotted, bald as poo poo tires on it (... before the test drive, they had cables showing after), but hey, it did a half block long burnout easily. (it was a dealer that wanted $6000 for a 1999 Camry and wouldn't budge on the price, and had burned me pretty bad on a car I'd bought a few years prior, so I didn't exactly feel bad about roasting what was left of the lovely tires on it). Suicide Watch posted:Can a bad engine mount cause cylinder misfires? I noticed my engine was vibrating pretty badly at idle and under drive, but when the check engine light came on after driving a bit, I got misfire codes. I was thinking that the excess vibration would cause the misfire codes to trip but it's just as likely misfires are also causing the vibration. Thoughts? The misfires are causing the vibration (and also destroying your oxygen sensor(s) + catalytic converter(s)). Bad motor mounts will not cause misfire codes; the ECU isn't looking for vibration. Depending how fancypants it is, it's basing it on seeing excess fuel when one particular cylinder should have fired, or sensing that a spark plug hasn't fired, or maybe some kind of voodoo. What car, and which cylinders are misfiring? Javid posted:So it sounds like you and MGS are talking about two different setups? Two identical batteries charging off my existing regulator vs. that separate charge controller kit he posted that wouldn't require replacing the starting battery. Do I understand that right? I didn't look that closely at the kit he posted to be honest; I just know it's generally a good idea to have two batteries that may be connected to each other (even via a charge controller) be the same type battery. Otherwise, when they are connected, one may be drawing down the other. It's always good to have an isolator when you have a second battery that may be powering stuff in the back. And no, there's something wrong with either the gauge or sender (probably the gauge if I had to guess). I'm not sure how it should be smoothing it, but even my 1980 F-150 didn't do that. It would drop a little on some turns, go up a little on some turns, but it was a slow, smooth transition. I would guess they probably use a capacitor to smooth it out, but I'm lost beyond that - it's not something I've ever had to really look into.
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Jul 15, 2018 06:30
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When available you always want both batteries to be of the same age and make, so when they get into heavy charging you won't have one battery that's older and sinking a lot of the charging current causing a drawdown on the newer battery. There's also a chance that, for extended road trips where a charging voltage is present, a defective battery could cause a current draw across the battery linkage lines, and that's not too good. However, an automatic charging regulator (like the Blue Sea Systems kit has) is not the same as an isolator. A standard isolator setup simply disconnects the batteries when the engine is off, and reconnects them when the engine is running. An ACR waits until one battery is charged up to a certain point + a few minutes of time, and then it connects the second (house) battery over. This means that the engine battery will always be charged back up quite a bit before the additional load of charging a house battery is applied, drastically limiting the load on your alternator. It's why ACRs are so popular with DIY RVers and boat people - no need for a super beefy alternator (though one always helps). Once the engine is shut off, the batteries are left connected together until the voltage of either drops below 13.1-13.2 volts (the standard resting voltage of a battery), or there is a mismatch of more than 1.5 volts between either side (a sign of a bad battery, or one that hasn't been charged back up fully). This prevents a partially discharged, or bad, battery from nuking your engine battery, and ensures that your engine battery is always charged fully first. This is also why an ACR requires the ground connection, as it kind of acts like an ammeter. When it knows the engine is shut off (voltage drops below 14.2-14.4), and it senses current between both batteries, it disconnects them for safety. The reason the kit comes with a switch is that it allows you to bypass the ACR, or completely disconnect it. Bypass it if you need to self-jump with both batteries or in emergencies, and disconnect the second battery for storage or swapping it out. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 06:42 on Jul 15, 2018 |
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Jul 15, 2018 06:39
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Okay that's a lot more advanced than what I imagined. Good stuff.
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Jul 15, 2018 07:08
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For a hundred loving dollars it had better be damned good. I had three of them for my bus 
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Jul 15, 2018 08:03
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Suicide Watch posted:Can a bad engine mount cause cylinder misfires? I noticed my engine was vibrating pretty badly at idle and under drive, but when the check engine light came on after driving a bit, I got misfire codes. I was thinking that the excess vibration would cause the misfire codes to trip but it's just as likely misfires are also causing the vibration. Thoughts? Vital Signs posted:Hello,
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Jul 15, 2018 08:29
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GWBBQ posted:It's not the engine mount. Swap the coil pack for any cylinder that misfires with one that doesn't, one at a time, and see if the misfire follows the coil pack.
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Jul 15, 2018 13:01
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GWBBQ posted:It's not the engine mount. Swap the coil pack for any cylinder that misfires with one that doesn't, one at a time, and see if the misfire follows the coil pack. STR posted:The misfires are causing the vibration (and also destroying your oxygen sensor(s) + catalytic converter(s)). Bad motor mounts will not cause misfire codes; the ECU isn't looking for vibration. Depending how fancypants it is, it's basing it on seeing excess fuel when one particular cylinder should have fired, or sensing that a spark plug hasn't fired, or maybe some kind of voodoo. Thanks, I guess I'll have to do this. Car is a 2006 Volvo XC70. Looks like I have the tools in hand, as long as I label the coil packs with their original positions I should be able to determine the issue. Also, I was looking at a Youtube video for this and the tech was just unplugging the coil cables until he found the one that wasn't making noise. Would that be a quick way to determine the faulty coil or does that pose any greater risk to the engine?
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Jul 15, 2018 13:27
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:When available you always want both batteries to be of the same age and make, so when they get into heavy charging you won't have one battery that's older and sinking a lot of the charging current causing a drawdown on the newer battery. There's also a chance that, for extended road trips where a charging voltage is present, a defective battery could cause a current draw across the battery linkage lines, and that's not too good. Awesome, thanks. I don't want to use two of the same battery because the battery box in the rear is way huger than the one under the hood and I don't want to be stuck with a small equipment battery when I have the space for a nice big one for not much more money. Javid fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jul 15, 2018 |
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Jul 15, 2018 16:19
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Oh god I'm seriously considering buying a $1300 '94 LS400 with 180k miles that has emissions problems. It's a really bad idea, isn't it?
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Jul 15, 2018 20:00
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MrOnBicycle posted:Oh god I'm seriously considering buying a $1300 '94 LS400 with 180k miles that has emissions problems. It's a really bad idea, isn't it? No. That's one of the most ridiculously overbuilt cars in the history of ever. 180k is low mileage. Change the timing belt and drive it until time ends. Question: 2011 Nissan Juke / 74k miles / CVT. Speed-dependant noise from the front. I have been watching it for a while and assumed a wheel bearing. I jacked it up today to actually diagnose and I'm a bit stumped. All 4 wheels seem to spin fine. Backs are freewheeling. Fronts are attached to the transmission, so they spin, but with some mechanical drag. No play or noise of a wheel bearing that I noticed (note I didn't take the wheels off, just spinning them with wheels in the air). Checked transmission and it was a bit over-full. Drained a bit out and no difference at all. Noise particularly noticable at about 60mph. Noise does not change putting transmission in neutral at speed. Noise does change/diminish when turning right. Again, to me that indicates wheel bearing on the left side, which is where the noise seems to be coming from. Is there anything else it could be, or should I just throw a bearing at it to see what it does? (Bearing is a pain in the rear end, the whole front suspension needs to come apart for that side.)
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Jul 15, 2018 20:10
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EVERYWHERE 
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This fall/winter when I switch out summer tires for winter, I want to get my summer (factory) rims refinished. I figure it s good time, since the tires are almost done for, so I can sawzall the tires off the rims, and drop them off at a rim refinish place. THere is only a tiny bit of curb rash on one, and the rest is just corrosion/finish bubbling or whatever. So, questions are: What sort of processes do places use for refinishing? Is it just like, dip rim in acid/solvent/whatever rinse the poo poo off, then dip in new finish coating? Is there a different process depending on the type of factory finish? Its a Toyota, and all I want is to look stock as gently caress. I don't care about changing colours or anything.
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Jul 15, 2018 20:14
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MrOnBicycle posted:Oh god I'm seriously considering buying a $1300 '94 LS400 with 180k miles that has emissions problems. It's a really bad idea, isn't it? Yeah no, they are among the most reliable of cars made. It was Toyota trying to sell Lexus, they poured incredible amounts of effort and money into that car. It's good and you can't go wrong with a Lexus LS.
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Jul 15, 2018 20:23
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wesleywillis posted:This fall/winter when I switch out summer tires for winter, I want to get my summer (factory) rims refinished. I figure it s good time, since the tires are almost done for, so I can sawzall the tires off the rims, and drop them off at a rim refinish place. THere is only a tiny bit of curb rash on one, and the rest is just corrosion/finish bubbling or whatever. I did that a couple years ago. Got all 4 sandblasted and powdercoated for 260 bucks and they came out awesome. Didnt fix any curb rash but you can hardly notice it with the new paint. Look for a sandblasting or wheel repair place near you.
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Jul 15, 2018 20:24
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MrOnBicycle posted:Oh god I'm seriously considering buying a $1300 '94 LS400 with 180k miles that has emissions problems. It's a really bad idea, isn't it? I guess it depends on the emissions standards where you live. For my state, a car that old doesn't need any emissions checks, so emissions problems are just a hit to gas mileage, not a real problem As long as there's no "not oil" in the oil (coolant, metal shavings, gasoline, etc), that car would last at least another hundred thousand miles as long as you do sink a couple hundred extra dollars into preventive maintenance
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Jul 15, 2018 20:45
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If anything resembling maintenance is done the Ls400 is routinely a 250k+ car.
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Jul 15, 2018 21:08
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Seminal Flu posted:Speed-dependant noise from the front. I have been watching it for a while and assumed a wheel bearing. I jacked it up today to actually diagnose and I'm a bit stumped. The bad wheel bearing on my MS3 had no symptoms other than noise while driving. No extra play, no clicking or growling when spinning, but loud as hell when driving down the road.
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Jul 15, 2018 23:11
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IOwnCalculus posted:The bad wheel bearing on my MS3 had no symptoms other than noise while driving. No extra play, no clicking or growling when spinning, but loud as hell when driving down the road. Fingers crossed. Got one coming this week.
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Jul 16, 2018 00:42
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Turned out it was the pad hardware that was rusted/bent. Was able to bend it back into place a bit and it's not making noise anymore. My pads are at about 50% right now, but if the noise continues I'm not going to take it all apart to just do hardware. So, it's either deal with the noise until pads are due, or change them early it seems.
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Jul 16, 2018 01:05
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 So uh, what exactly does this do?
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Jul 16, 2018 03:12
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KakerMix posted:Yeah no, they are among the most reliable of cars made. It was Toyota trying to sell Lexus, they poured incredible amounts of effort and money into that car. It's good and you can't go wrong with a Lexus LS.
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Jul 16, 2018 03:30
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KakerMix posted:
https://www.amazon.com/15500510-Manage-Universal-Control-Manager/dp/B0107MZXCU quote:***Please check the compatible list prior to the order: http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/03electric/e-manage_syasyu.htm GReddy’s e-Manage is a cost effective programmable engine management system that allows you to properly tune your factory engine control without having to change the entire factory ECU system to an expensive "stand-alone" unit or the inconvenience of sending it out for a full ECU reprogram. The e-Manage system is a true universal "piggy-back" type unit that taps into most Japanese factory ECU wiring, by utilizing the vehicle’s existing sensors (or optional upgraded sensors if factory sensors are maxed out). Basic functions will allow the tuner to slightly alter factory injector duty-cycle (± 20% at 5 preset RPM points) by intercepting and altering airflow or MAP sensor signals. An option for Honda VTEC cars will allow you to even adjust the VTEC shift point. There is a 16x16 airflow adjustment map, a maximum 50% larger main injector correction adjustment, upgrade air flow meter adjustment, boost limiter cut, anti-engine stall, VTEC-fuel adjustment, real-time map trace, real-time display, real-time communication and basic Data-logging. With the use of our "Optional Injector Harness" and the software, the unit has the ability to control an additional 16x16 injector duty cycle map and the controls for adding up to 2 additional sub-injectors. If the "Optional Ignition Harness" and the software are used the unit has the ability to control a 16x16 ignition timing map. All of the above maps can also be map-traced in real-time as well.
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Jul 16, 2018 03:36
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I just kind of googled it Looks like it intercepts the signal from sensors and modifies them so that the main ECU will then "correct" them, fooling it into providing more power or otherwise changing the engine's operation.
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Jul 16, 2018 05:30
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GWBBQ posted:Definitely this. Toyota knew that the early Lexus models were make-or-break for the brand and they are among the most incredibly overngineered cars ever made. Something like 70% of 94-96 Camrys and Corollas are still on the road and the Lexus versions were even more overbuilt. KakerMix posted:Yeah no, they are among the most reliable of cars made. It was Toyota trying to sell Lexus, they poured incredible amounts of effort and money into that car. It's good and you can't go wrong with a Lexus LS. Seminal Flu posted:No. That's one of the most ridiculously overbuilt cars in the history of ever. 180k is low mileage. Change the timing belt and drive it until time ends. What worries me is being able to get parts in Europe. It'll be expensive to run, gas wise, but on the other hand it's a pretty fuel efficient V8. I don't drive much, so it's OK. Kinda want to own a V8 before it's too prohibitive. Aside from the control arms (expensive, but which still are "only" ~$80-90 a piece), the parts that can be easily found are pretty cheap. It's probably wrong, but I tend to go by what second hand engines /transmissions go for to gauge what the general parts cost is going to be. The Door Frame posted:I guess it depends on the emissions standards where you live. For my state, a car that old doesn't need any emissions checks, so emissions problems are just a hit to gas mileage, not a real problem Strict enough for it to fail inspection which mean it's not allowed to be driven on public roads, which in turn means I can't test drive it and have to get it towed on a flatbed if I buy it. The owner says in the ad that she thinks it's the MAF. At almost $1.80/L, any hit to fuel economy isn't fun. But I don't drive much, so it's manageable if I can get the fuel economy that people claim to get.
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Jul 16, 2018 06:11
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I bought a beater, 2000 VW Golf with the 2.0 and a 5 speed, and I'm struggling to get the exhaust blowing clear enough to smog it. I get faint black smoke after snapping the throttle to ~2,500RPM - the smoke is always when the revs are dropping, not while building. The car has 237k miles and when I bought it, was throwing a code for the downstream O2 sensor and generally running pretty rough. Here's what I've done so far: Seafoam, 3/4 through the intake and 1/4 in the gas. New plugs, old ones were heavily worn but weren't damaged or significantly fouled and the spark plug wells were free of oil. Both O2 sensors Air filter - there was a literal rat's nest in the air box, with a whole bunch of carpet padding or insulation Cleaned out the air box and air hoses, removed and cleaned the PCV Cleaned throttle body and MAF Checked vacuum to FPR Replaced coolant temperature sensor New fuel filter Symptoms (other than black smoke): Unplugging the ECM and letting it reset makes it drive better for one or two drives, then return to being down on power/hard to accelerate. White smoke from under the hood when adding seafoam to the intake - I've been hunting for an exhaust or vacuum leak but haven't come up with anything yet. The first start of the day is almost always a hard start the requires 15-20 seconds of cranking. Each subsequent start through the day is just fine. Tonight I was giving it a close listen with the engine idling, and the PCV return hose is distinctly hissing. When I pinch closed the vacuum line coming off the TB, the hissing stops. If I rev the engine, the hissing reduces until ~3,000RPM it's completely gone. The seller included a huge stack of records and the PCV was replaced 02/2016, and it's clean and gives a light rattle when tapped, so I didn't think the PCV was bad. Does anyone have experience with this car/engine and knows whether that hissing is normal, or points to a vacuum leak somewhere? So far I've put ~500 miles on it and it hasn't burned any noticeable oil, no leaks that I can tell at all. Today I did the spark plugs, fuel filter, upstream O2 sensor (did the downstream two weeks ago) and cleaned/inspected the PCV valve and hoses. It's running better, but I've still got faint black smoke when I have someone snap the throttle. Besides the original downstream O2 sensor code that cleared itself after replacement, there are no additional codes set or pending. The readiness checks all set correctly. Aside from letting the computer continue to adjust and getting fresh gas in it, I'm at a loss and ready to bring it in somewhere. Aside from a bad MAF, I'm fairy sure that air and spark are all happening correctly. My next guesses are either the FPR or a stuck injector, or possibly the catalytic converter? This is the first car I've registered in a smog state, and the first time I've bought something off Craigslist. I've been scouring vwvortex and can find similar reports of not running well with an ECM reset clearing it up for just a few drives, and even one report of that PCV line hissing that goes away when pinching the TB vacuum line, but I'm having a tough time finding resolutions or narrowing anything down. The OBD scan I ran tonight reports: Closed-loop 204.8F coolant temp 107.6F intake air temp 1.56% short-term fuel trim 3.12% long-term fuel trim 810RPM idle (I think this is ~50-100RPM high?) 4.5deg advance timing on #1 cylinder 0.46lb/min MAF rate Upstream O2 sensor: 0.76V, 1.56% short-term fuel trim Downstream O2 sensor: 0.63V, 99.22% short-term fuel trim - this seems really high, is my new O2 sensor bad? Now I'm jumping to the O2 sensor being bad, and that was the first thing I replaced. Is that STFT reading a flag?
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Jul 16, 2018 06:17
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I bought a crown Vic last year and it was a near 50/50 split between it and a ls400. If I hadn't been moving and needed the towing, I would have gotten the Lexus. I don't regret the P71 at all, unless ls400 discussion is happening. They're the perfect overbuilt car and I wish I would have gotten one.
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Jul 16, 2018 06:19
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Cellular Suicide posted:I bought a beater, 2000 VW Golf with the 2.0 and a 5 speed, and I'm struggling to get the exhaust blowing clear enough to smog it.
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Jul 16, 2018 07:17
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2009 PT Cruiser, 2.4 N/A. Crank, no start. Throwing a CPS code, but cranking sounds pretty uneven. Not sure if this cranking is normal for the 2.4? Sorry for poo poo quality video.  If it's uneven, what are the chances of bent valves if it skipped time? The uneven cranking had me thinking it skipped timing, but some crank/no start videos I found make it sound like this is normal cranking for these? Wrar posted:If anything resembling maintenance is done the Ls400 is routinely a 250k+ car. Hell that's if you just do occasional oil changes and timing belts. If you're religious about maintenance... 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:12 on Jul 16, 2018 |
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Jul 16, 2018 07:56
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spankmeister posted:Stop throwing parts at it and check the cat. I've been trying to resist too much parts throwing, I'll grab a vacuum gauge and check for backpressure tomorrow. The cat definitely rattles, I gave it a couple of good taps when doing the O2 sensors and when the A/C is running it resonates like a tin can full of marbles.
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Jul 16, 2018 08:15
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MrOnBicycle posted:Strict enough for it to fail inspection which mean it's not allowed to be driven on public roads, which in turn means I can't test drive it and have to get it towed on a flatbed if I buy it. The owner says in the ad that she thinks it's the MAF. At almost $1.80/L, any hit to fuel economy isn't fun. But I don't drive much, so it's manageable if I can get the fuel economy that people claim to get. That's a bitch Does anyone know if that year was OBD1 or OBD2? If it's OBD2, you can rent/buy a cheap scanner and find the emissions answer even though you can't drive it to a mechanic
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Jul 16, 2018 08:51
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For Toyota 1994 is firmly in OBD1 territory. 1995 was a transition year, and mandates were in place for 1996. For the LS400 in 1994 you need simply a piece of wire and you read blinky-codes. Some other manus had OBDII-compatible systems in place in 1994-1995, but it was like a neo-OBDII that often had proprietary plugs and sometimes incompatible data transmission rates or protocols. Fuzzy period.
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Jul 16, 2018 08:54
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:For Toyota 1994 is firmly in OBD1 territory. 1995 was a transition year, and mandates were in place for 1996. For the LS400 in 1994 you need simply a piece of wire and you read blinky-codes. Ok, I didn't know if the transition year was different in different markets. OBD1 blinks are tedious and sometimes vague, but at least they're free
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Jul 16, 2018 09:00
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The Door Frame posted:Ok, I didn't know if the transition year was different in different markets. OBD1 blinks are tedious and sometimes vague, but at least they're free It was, and OP did mention they're in Europe. The OBD2 mandate was more USDM/CDM.
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Jul 16, 2018 09:26
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Here's what I'm dealing with with this stupid fuel gauge: (pardon the shakycam, filming while driving this tub is awkward) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ufUJ2tBbrM Note that that was like 8 mph in a parking lot. It's worse at road speeds. I think the reading it gives me when I turn the thing on (but not start it) after it's been sitting a bit, is correct, and then it all goes apeshit once it starts moving and sloshing around. Original question was because I put in 20 gallons for a 200 mile trip, which should've given me between 240-300 miles based on the range of estimated MPG numbers google gives for this rig. After 100 miles it was bouncing around near E and I was like what in the gently caress. Was driving around a big national park with no gas which made it extra harrowing to wonder about. However, it made it as far as it needed to, so I'm confident the gauge is just weird. Van camping trip #1 was a success! 
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Jul 16, 2018 10:32
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Javid posted:Here's what I'm dealing with with this stupid fuel gauge: (pardon the shakycam, filming while driving this tub is awkward) I'd say that gauge is likely screwed, but you could always check the float in the tank if it is accessible and make sure the terminals aren't corroded.
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Jul 16, 2018 11:34
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STR posted:2009 PT Cruiser, 2.4 N/A. That almost sounds like it's trying to fire on one cylinder more than skipped timing, but a compression test would rule that in or out quickly.
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Jul 16, 2018 14:36
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