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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A few hours in the sun will darken cherry a bit-it changes color very very quickly compared to most woods.  i might have overdone the sun a bit lol
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Jul 27, 2018 00:33
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go for a stroll posted:
It was going to happen eventually. The color change looks great.
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Jul 27, 2018 00:47
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Jhet posted:It was going to happen eventually. The color change looks great. I was trying to show the gigantic bow I put in it by driving all the moisture out of one side. I'm assuming it will flatten out in a few days, but it's pretty alarming. I'm amazed it didn't break.
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Jul 27, 2018 00:51
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The Spookmaster posted:I'm dumb and just bought a 25 gallon compressor off Craigslist for 50 bucks and got home and realized it's rated for 240 volts. Any way I can run it off of 120 I'm only planning to use it for brad/pin nailing and finishing every once in awhile? Look for a wiring diagram on the motor that allows you to flip from one to the other. A lot of them have it.
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Jul 27, 2018 01:09
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go for a stroll posted:I was trying to show the gigantic bow I put in it by driving all the moisture out of one side. I'm assuming it will flatten out in a few days, but it's pretty alarming. I'm amazed it didn't break. ahh, it's hard to tell because a lot of wide angle camera lenses will distort the image in exactly that way too. Could you not just flip it over and expose the other side to the same amount of sun? anyway yeah probably will fix itself if you let the wood normalize a bit.
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Jul 27, 2018 02:03
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My second end grain board did that. Not that much but because I reinforced the bottom with plywood I guess it couldn't dry evenly so it's a little concave. Works great though.
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Jul 27, 2018 02:45
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My first experience with my new fixed base router was a joy. What a fun tool. Holy poo poo does it ever kick out some sawdust. I got a couple of corner splinterings but upon reading up it’s more prone on hardwoods, maybe I can dial the rpms down and do smaller passes. Nothing I don’t think I can’t round out.
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Jul 27, 2018 03:23
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go for a stroll posted:
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Jul 27, 2018 04:20
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I know you guys probably roll your eyes every time I post about the same project(s) I am working on, but I assure you, I am learning SO much, value all of your input, and am having such a blast working with wood. I have truly found my zen. I have a general question (but would like to apply the knowledge specifically to my cutting board. After hand routing yesterda, I chipped edges a little. I rounded the splintered corners, but I have a couple of chipouts. I sanded it down a bit and it looks better but I find myself wondering if there is some kind of fill or fix that would seal up AND look good. (like a sawdust and ____ blend) sanded after the fact?  A couple like that. So my options are: Fill / fix it somehow Sand it down to oblivion (see you in several years!) Own it and call my board a "rustic learning experience". 
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Jul 27, 2018 18:16
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My go-to patch is fine sawdust and glue. Mix it into a paste, fill in the gap, wipe clear the excess, then sand it down once it's dried.
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Jul 27, 2018 18:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My go-to patch is fine sawdust and glue. Mix it into a paste, fill in the gap, wipe clear the excess, then sand it down once it's dried. See this is what I was thinking. What kind of ratios do you use? Like a teaspoon of fine sawdust to a drop of glue? Awesome tip! Thanks!
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Jul 27, 2018 18:45
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I just make a small puddle of glue, and then add sawdust and mix it with a toothpick until it gets pasty. You'll get better results from doing it by hand than from trying to measure things carefully.
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Jul 27, 2018 18:53
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It might be gone already but you an glue the chip back in.
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Jul 27, 2018 18:58
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bred posted:It might be gone already but you an glue the chip back in. That would have been my first idea but sadly it was splintered kinda dirty. Not a chip, per se. Thanks everyone!
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Jul 27, 2018 19:00
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Feenix posted:See this is what I was thinking. What kind of ratios do you use? Like a teaspoon of fine sawdust to a drop of glue? Awesome tip! Thanks! theres no special ratio I use its just pinch as much saw dust as I can and mix it with some glue and fill. Too much sawdust and it won't stick and too much glue and it looks like just glue
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Jul 27, 2018 21:01
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I would rout it again, very carefully, with a bit that will clean up that part of the previous bit's profile, rather than doing the glue-and-sawdust thing on something I'm gonna use with food.
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Jul 27, 2018 21:14
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Taking shallower cuts and a slower travel speed will help some, especially in hard-rear end wood like purple heart. Good quality bits help too-Freud makes very good ones and Home Depot carries them. Make sure you're moving the router in the correct direction with relation to the rotation of the bit. One of the many complications with end grain cutting boards is that you're always going to be routing cross grain, and that makes life difficult. I'm not sure I'd use it on cutting boards, and the colors aren't always perfect, but Famowood is good putty/filler. Glue and sawdust also works, superglue dripped in a hole filled with sawdust works too, and makes a very hard filler. Edit:do what Jarvis said, not so much because of food safety stuff as it will just be easier and cleaner in the long run. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Jul 27, 2018 |
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Jul 27, 2018 21:22
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Javid posted:I would rout it again, very carefully, with a bit that will clean up that part of the previous bit's profile, rather than doing the glue-and-sawdust thing on something I'm gonna use with food. Ehh, even for a patch in the middle of the board where a knife might plausibly come into contact with it, I wouldn't expect any issues. You're talking small odds of a tiny amount of wood and glue getting into your food. You should be choosing food-safe woods to begin with (and yes, cherry/purpleheart/walnut are safe), and for wood glues, at least Titebond II and III "have both been approved for indirect food contact." You should also of course be using finishes that are food-safe when cured. Fortunately that covers a lot of finishes.
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Jul 27, 2018 21:26
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Lots of info: let me tackle in bullets: = It was a Diablo chamfer bit. = I probably could have done lighter passes but it sounds like End Grain is always tricky. = Purpleheart is awesome wood but I’m going to Avoid it until I get more seasoned. It burns, splinters and is hella stubborn. = I already did the glue paste thing. I used Titebond 3 for the whole project. =I’m not too concerned because all of the nicks were on the southern edge of the chamfer. Basically the knife (nor food) will ever really go there. But good points about fragility and contact. =It’s just going to have mineral oil and maybe a beeswax board coating as the final. <3 thanks for all the great advice as always!
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Jul 27, 2018 22:35
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Yeah, lighter passes. If you have to rout the entire thing 5 times, extending the bit 1/16" each time, it's worth it.
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Jul 27, 2018 23:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Ehh, even for a patch in the middle of the board where a knife might plausibly come into contact with it, I wouldn't expect any issues. You're talking small odds of a tiny amount of wood and glue getting into your food. You should be choosing food-safe woods to begin with (and yes, cherry/purpleheart/walnut are safe), and for wood glues, at least Titebond II and III "have both been approved for indirect food contact." I was going to make a joke about javid's squeamishness, bodily fluids and his best fetish sellers....I guess that's the joke
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Jul 28, 2018 00:32
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I make 'em, I don't utilize 'em.
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Jul 28, 2018 01:36
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Probably another longshot but does anyone here carve wood with a magnifying glass and if so what are your thoughts on wearing the visor vs. desk mount? I've been carving a few years but never tried anything detailed or small enough to need them, seems like there aren't a lot of people left making prayer nuts. Also looking for advice on the smallest possible chisels and knives if anyone has any experience. Thinking of practicing on basswood to get the technique down, any other ideas are appreciated!
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Jul 28, 2018 01:41
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extra stout posted:Probably another longshot but does anyone here carve wood with a magnifying glass and if so what are your thoughts on wearing the visor vs. desk mount? I've been carving a few years but never tried anything detailed or small enough to need them, seems like there aren't a lot of people left making prayer nuts. Also looking for advice on the smallest possible chisels and knives if anyone has any experience. Thinking of practicing on basswood to get the technique down, any other ideas are appreciated! I was an avid model builder for a number of years and I would strongly recommend visors instead of magnifying lamps on all counts. I hate to not link due to phone posting (sorry) but American Science & Surplus is having a sale on loupe magnifier glasses for like $8 as of yesterday, and they always have cheap modelling/carving kits on sale with tiny implements. If you're willing to hunt a bit through their categories and you just want to try out a new method with cheap tools, they're a great resource. (Not just for woodworking-- it's a great fun site. Think Harbor Freight for high school science teachers.)
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Jul 28, 2018 01:54
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What’s a good sharpening stone grit for routine maintenance? I have a 1000 grit wet stone and after using it a few times, it seems like it’s a bit aggressive. This is for small gouges, if it makes a difference.
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Jul 28, 2018 01:59
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Javid posted:I make 'em, I don't utilize 'em. Javid & Sonnes Fine Woodcrafting- We Krafte your Kinky Kravings
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Jul 28, 2018 03:51
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extra stout posted:Probably another longshot but does anyone here carve wood with a magnifying glass and if so what are your thoughts on wearing the visor vs. desk mount? I've been carving a few years but never tried anything detailed or small enough to need them, seems like there aren't a lot of people left making prayer nuts. Also looking for advice on the smallest possible chisels and knives if anyone has any experience. Thinking of practicing on basswood to get the technique down, any other ideas are appreciated! Pfeil makes some nice palm sized carving tools that occasionally Woodcraft has on sale as a set but I don't know how tiny you need. dupersaurus posted:What’s a good sharpening stone grit for routine maintenance? I have a 1000 grit wet stone and after using it a few times, it seems like it’s a bit aggressive. This is for small gouges, if it makes a difference. For carving tools/gouges I mostly use a buffing wheel to keep them nice and sharp. Harbor freight makes a cheap one with two wheels and I keep red rouge on one wheel and green that gives a mirror polish on the other. Find some thicker spiral sewn wheels than what comes with the machine though. V chisels and gouges etc. are a pain to grind correctly, so I try to just keep them buffed to a sharp edge instead of having to put them to a stone. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Jul 28, 2018 |
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Jul 28, 2018 05:07
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dupersaurus posted:What’s a good sharpening stone grit for routine maintenance? I have a 1000 grit wet stone and after using it a few times, it seems like it’s a bit aggressive. This is for small gouges, if it makes a difference. i haven't figured out what i want to do sharpening wise, but afaik when it comes to whetstones 1000 grit is the 2nd step for rough shaping when you have to pull out defects from the cutting edge (600 being the first) with finishing grits winding up in the 6k, 10k and 15k+ range for the sandpaper route, i know that the progression ramps up quite high, but in order to get that sharp sharp sharp edge on your cutting tools, you have to make sure that it's not only sharp but polished and ready to go
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Jul 28, 2018 05:10
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extra stout posted:Probably another longshot but does anyone here carve wood with a magnifying glass and if so what are your thoughts on wearing the visor vs. desk mount? I've been carving a few years but never tried anything detailed or small enough to need them, seems like there aren't a lot of people left making prayer nuts. Also looking for advice on the smallest possible chisels and knives if anyone has any experience. Thinking of practicing on basswood to get the technique down, any other ideas are appreciated! I do modeling in wood (ships) and I tried the arm with a light & magnifying glass and hated it. I use an optivisor and would never recommend the desk mount type magnifier. When it comes to chisels, my recommendation is to not buy cheap crap that they sell at hobby stores. They are garbage and you'll never be able to do good work with them unless you are a magician, and they'll constantly need to be sharpened. I know that Flexcut makes some very nice small chisels ( https://www.flexcut.com/home/category/wood-carving-tools/micro-tools/micro-tool-sets ) with varying tips, and also makes a special doo-dad to sharpen them with ( https://www.flexcut.com/home/product/pw12-flexcut-slipstrop ). Not sure what other manufacturers of good quality chisels make super small ones like that. I would give the same advice about files. Yes, a good (tiny) Valorbe Swiss file might cost $20-$25 or more, but it will serve you well, while the cheap hobby files rest at the bottom of a drawer (or preferably in a landfill).
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Jul 28, 2018 06:14
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Feenix posted:Own it and call my board a "rustic learning experience". Chicks dig scars
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Jul 28, 2018 11:31
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Got my axe sharpened today, I mean I cut my thumb from touching it carelessly after I had honed it, so yeah it gets things sharp.
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Jul 28, 2018 15:24
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I’ve sanded to 220. I’m reading different things on what to do next. Some people sand higher, but that’ll close pores. Some people flood it with water to raise the grain and then hit it with 300+. Some folks start in on various 300-and-up wet-sandings with mineral oil. What do you guys like? After the mineral oil soaks do you guys do a board-butter (beeswax blend)?
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Jul 29, 2018 02:51
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For a chopping board, you don't need to go much past 220 imo, but give it a water bath to raise the grain and sand them down.
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Jul 29, 2018 05:17
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I think "flood" is the wrong word to use. You get it wet in order to raise the grain in order to sand it down a bit further. When you go to finish it with mineral oil, yes you'll flood it to the point where you're pouring oil on the top and it soaks through the entire board to drip out the bottom of it.
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Jul 29, 2018 05:24
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So how wet should I get the wood? I saw one video where the guy literally dunked it for a few min.
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Jul 29, 2018 05:32
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Just go give it a good scrub in the kitchen sink, like you would clean it after using it.
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Jul 29, 2018 06:22
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I'd like to hear more about this mineral oil flooding idea. I'm just doing a zillion coats with a rag on mine.
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Jul 29, 2018 08:05
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Alternative suggestion: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/oil-based-salad-bowl-finish This topic used to come up in the Woodtalk podcast quite a bit, and this was their usual answer. The problems they expressed with mineral oil is that it didn’t actually do much in the way of protecting and doesn’t do much to stop the colors in the board from fading out. If you use the above product and don’t build a film on top, you should be fine.
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Jul 29, 2018 12:26
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Has anyone ever experimented with vacuum sealing wood in an oil bath to get maximum penetration?
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Jul 29, 2018 14:19
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Alternative suggestion: https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/oil-based-salad-bowl-finish The first cutting board I ever made, I was following a guide that said to use thinned Salad Bowl Finish to soak through. It seems to have worked fine (the board is still in use and looks good), but later I read the can more carefully and it said specifically "do not thin" and "do not use for surfaces that are used for chopping". I'm guessing the concern is that you could get a film on top, like you said, which would get somewhat shredded by knifework and create vacancies for microbes to live in. So if you're dead-set on using it, I guess I'd just recommend sanding the hell out of the top after you're done applying finish.
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Jul 29, 2018 15:02
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