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Dagen H posted:https://www.txdmv.gov/motorcarriers/low-clearance/item/1771-austin-district-structures-with-low-vertical-clearance Very useful, thanks. Luckily I'm not driving under any of those (though 423 is one of the exits I can take to get to the new place... usually take 1431) PabloBOOM posted:I was pretty much in your exact shoes this time last year, down to the brand of truck. Then drove that monster with loaded car for two days and didn't run over a single Smart car or road sign! The only part that stressed me out was making sure I had enough space at any gas stations or other stops. As said, just relax and plan ahead; if I couldn't see an easy spot to turn around, I didn't stop there. I'd say the most important thing to remember is an auxiliary cable and phone mount for the road trip! They're surprisingly not stressful to just drive down the highway. Unfortunately, I lost the USB-C to 3.5mm adapter for my phone.  I might use my work phone for music, though (it still has a 3.5mm, and T-Mobile doesn't count music streaming toward your data cap). Or just bring a bluetooth speaker.The truck has a 30 gallon tank, which SHOULD be enough for the trip. If not, there's a Bucees with massive fuel islands about 2/3 of the way there. I've driven box trucks plenty, just not with a trailer attached.
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Jul 29, 2018 20:50
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I'm looking for a good, portable and durable, tire pressure gauge. Any recs?
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Jul 29, 2018 21:59
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Car pressures or truck pressures? For regular tires I have one of these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010A6B6KG/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And it's pretty good.
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Jul 29, 2018 22:12
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Car pressures or truck pressures? For regular tires I have one of these Bicycle tires, admittedly. I popped a tube yesterday and didn't get the replacement as full as it should have been E: I also should probably have one for the car too iospace fucked around with this message at 22:23 on Jul 29, 2018 |
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Jul 29, 2018 22:21
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Car pressures or truck pressures? For regular tires I have one of these I've got one of these. The back-lit LCD makes it really easy to read in the garage.
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Jul 29, 2018 22:35
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For bike tires I love this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HMOQCJY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's flow-through, so you can also install it at the end of a pump tube if you want. 
Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jul 29, 2018 |
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Jul 29, 2018 22:52
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Deteriorata posted:I've got one of these. The back-lit LCD makes it really easy to read in the garage. I have the exact same one but from AliExpress and it was like $4
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Jul 29, 2018 23:04
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Brolander posted:So I drive a 2006 Acura TL 5AT. I've noticed that when I'm coasting, it will feel like almost like the transmission is downshifting, except for the RPMs drop and the gear indicator ( I drive almost exclusively in Manual Mode) doesn't change. I'm aware of this transmission's reputation, taken all the necessary precautions to increase it's longevity and it shifts just fine, never had any slipping out of gear or flaring. It had some t.c. shudder when I first bought it, but I haven't experienced it since I did fluid changes/pressure switches/etc. Is the computer just distributing power to be the most efficient? I'm assuming you don't have cruise control on? I've noticed my '13 CRV doing this but only on exceptionally long downhills, when the speed gets noticeably above what I have cruise set to.
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Jul 29, 2018 23:23
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IOwnCalculus posted:I'm assuming you don't have cruise control on? I've noticed my '13 CRV doing this but only on exceptionally long downhills, when the speed gets noticeably above what I have cruise set to. Nope, hardly ever use cruise control, on long drives through flat states if ever
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Jul 29, 2018 23:35
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That sounds almost like the torque converter locking up (which it will do at highway speeds, to give a slight bump in fuel economy).
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Jul 30, 2018 01:00
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It happened today in third gear, on flat ground. 
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Jul 30, 2018 01:16
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Anyone here with experience buying cars for import from Japan? I came across this website called "carfromjapan.com". Unsure if it's legit. But holy hell do I want a Honda N Box (even though I'd encounter all sorts of hell getting replacement parts here in Canada). This is probably a terrible idea. \/ Dropping over to that thread. Thanks, my dude. melon cat fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Jul 30, 2018 |
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Jul 30, 2018 04:07
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melon cat posted:Anyone here with experience buying cars for import from Japan? I came across this website called "carfromjapan.com". Unsure if it's legit. But holy hell do I want a Honda N Box (even though I'd encounter all sorts of hell getting replacement parts here in Canada). https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3829078
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Jul 30, 2018 04:10
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Brolander posted:It happened today in third gear, on flat ground. Long-shot here but... Do you have an aftermarket exhaust system? I'll notice the same sort of sounds, and I presumed it was my transmission doing something weird. But when I really tuned into the noise, I realized it was my flowmasters just making deceleration, or coasting down and settling type exhaust sounds.
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Jul 30, 2018 17:48
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2002 Civic EX, D17A2, 4AT. It cold-starts/runs/drives fine, but if run up to temp then allowed to heat-soak for 5-15 minutes, it won't run under load. Any attempt to accelerate causes it to cough, sputter, and die. It sounds to me like fuel, but I just installed a new Delphi pump module this spring. I also don't get the heat-soak connection. Thoughts?
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Jul 30, 2018 22:05
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Dennis McClaren posted:Long-shot here but... Do you have an aftermarket exhaust system? I'll notice the same sort of sounds, and I presumed it was my transmission doing something weird. But when I really tuned into the noise, I realized it was my flowmasters just making deceleration, or coasting down and settling type exhaust sounds. Nope, stock as stock.
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Jul 30, 2018 23:47
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How common is it for a car to have two oil-related intervals, where one says "Every 5k kms change the oil and every 10km change the oil and filter"? The AZ-1's user manual shows this as the intervals and it's pretty odd to me.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:28
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I thought that was most common, leading to the habit of one filter every other oil change. That's what most of my vehicles have been, but a 2008 is the newest thing I've ever owned. Even my ACVW was "Under severe dust conditions change oil daily. Otherwise, every 3000 miles," and the manual stated the filter (on the one that had a filter) was every 6k miles or 10k km.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:33
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:I thought that was most common, leading to the habit of one filter every other oil change. That's what most of my vehicles have been, but a 2008 is the newest thing I've ever owned. 3k was motor oil + clean the screen out.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:49
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Yeah, I'm a dumbass and conflated the sticker with what I was doing. But on other vehicles, like my 97 CRV, it's an oil filter every other oil change. For my VW bus I put on an aftermarket supersize oil filter, because I needed high flow but low pressure, and I changed it every other or every third oil change. But I was also changing the oil itself every 1,000 miles during the summer, and every 3,000 miles during the winter, due to heat breakdown. A filter from a semi truck where oil changes were every 12-40k was doing just fine with my self-made schedule. There are also a few vehicles out there that have oil filters in dumbfuck locations, or like on my P71 where it's difficult to get to without dropping this whole skidplate arrangement, that I will admit to doing more oil changes on than filter changes. I mean, yeah, it's super duper important to do both, but if you're on extremely limited time (like, say, before an emergency road trip) or extremely limited budget (like you only have $10 to your name for the next month but need to drive, the analogy isn't perfect), changing the oil itself minus filter can't exactly hurt anything. You should do both however often according to the all-holy manual, of course. But the situations and manuals do exist where the filter is every-other. Weird. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jul 31, 2018 |
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Jul 31, 2018 02:26
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I've never owned a vehicle that specified that kind of interval. I'm not surprised they're out there, though, with the crazy longlife oils.
Godholio fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Jul 31, 2018 |
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Jul 31, 2018 03:17
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My company ‘16 Flex is at 7500-mile intervals. The ‘13 I had before that (and the ‘10 before that) was 5000. I checked the dipstick at 6K a couple times and was surprised at how good the oil looked & smelled.
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Jul 31, 2018 03:30
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I wouldn't be too surprised on a new car, but this AZ-1 is a 1992. I guess it being a kei car 3cyl might have something to do with it.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:06
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KakerMix posted:How common is it for a car to have two oil-related intervals, where one says "Every 5k kms change the oil and every 10km change the oil and filter"? That's been a recommendation going back decades on some cars. There's been discussion of it now and then through the years in the automotive press. The consensus has been that since the filter holds a quart of old, dirty oil you're better off with a new one. You don't really save that much money and it's easy to lose track of which change you're on. Filters are cheap so go ahead and replace it every time you change the oil.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:20
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PainterofCrap posted:My company ‘16 Flex is at 7500-mile intervals. The ‘13 I had before that (and the ‘10 before that) was 5000. How do you like the Flex? We are considering an ecoboost for general family wagon duties and towing a camper at some point.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:29
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Deteriorata posted:That's been a recommendation going back decades on some cars. There's been discussion of it now and then through the years in the automotive press. Absolutely, but that just adds to the 'I know the manual says X, but you should really be doing Y' any time someone asks a question and the answer is 'do what the manual says'.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:42
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KakerMix posted:Absolutely, but that just adds to the 'I know the manual says X, but you should really be doing Y' any time someone asks a question and the answer is 'do what the manual says'. In this case, the recommendation is better than the manual and of negligible cost. It's the preferred way of doing it. The manual isn't wrong, it's that a better way is simpler. Overriding what the manual says is fine if you know why you're doing it differently.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:55
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PaintVagrant posted:How do you like the Flex? We are considering an ecoboost for general family wagon duties and towing a camper at some point. They don't seem to sell many of them, so they're still considered quirky. I get a surprising amount of attention, for driving an oversized silver Mini. Some folks ask what kind/brand of car it is. Three rows of seats, and the rear two split rows fold down. It won't hold a full sheet of plywood - nothing does any more - but it'll hold a ton of stuff, and the roof rack is functional. Build quality is excellent, and they stay solid & tight; Chrysler products feel cheap as hell by comparison (Chevys are OK). I'm not a Ford guy, I've owned a lot of different cars, and over the last 25-years, have had Chryslers, Chevys & Buicks as company rides (first was an Aries K car!); generally, the Windstar/Freestar vans (after '04) and these Flexes have been excellent. They were & remain dependable - the auto trans is rock-solid. The most common issues I've had are windshield impact chips/cracks & flat tires, though being a property claims adjuster means I spend a lot of time driving through zones of destruction & rebuilding. I do pick up drywall & deck screws, nails, bolts and once - a boxcutter blade. Problems I've encountered in the previous two (2010 & 2013): - Would not start. Came out one morning, got in, twisted the key, and bupkus. Lights & everything else worked. They wouldn't tell me what it was, but they fixed it under warranty in about half a day. A co-worker had the same thing happen in his '15 and it was a bad ignition switch. Only time the car stranded me with a mechanical issue. - Auto headlamp sensor failure: lights stayed on 24/7 when the car was running. Again, replaced under warranty. - Early (42K) right outer CV joint failure. Caught that early. The sound was intermittent; I'd drop if off, & the dealer would call less than an hour later & say it was 'fixed.' No loving way you changed an axle out that fast. After the second time I was stiffed, and still hearing it click away, I finally took a tech hostage & did tight rotations in the parking lot & wouldn't stop until he heard it, too. - Rear A/C quit working. My son was most impacted & unhappy about this, as Dad had plenty of A/C up front. Again, under warranty, they replaced some kind of switch in the back, somewhere. - Early battery failure (6K, < 1-year). Part of that was me being a dingdong and leaving my inverter on all of the time; however, a number of my co-workers reported it, too...these were in 2010-2011 Flexes...probably a bad batch of batteries. ---- On this one: I have an odd, fairly quiet <snap> sound when I brake or accelerate, coming from the right front. Sway bar end link, ball joint, strut insulator, loose pad, something that's gonna get looked at this week, before I drive it to southern South Carolina for vacation in two weeks. Whatever it is, I've been ignoring it for at least six months, and have noticed no effect. Started at about 29K miles. - rear camera fritzing out/works intermittently. This started last winter; it's a button mounted just below the FORD logo on the tailgate. I think the extreme sub-zero weather & thaw did it in, and water somehow got into it. My last Flex had just the sound for the proximity radar, which is plenty; I found the camera a bit distracting so I don't mind that the screen goes all weird. However, if I had paid $42K for it less than two years before, I'd be pissed. - the windshield washer supply hose occasionally likes to pop off right where it's barbed to the hood when you call for juice. This is just intermittent enough that I forget about it until the next time. I just have to stick a clamp or twist a piece of wire onto the hose. I was on the phone with a co-worker the first time it happened, and she said, "Oh! Open the hood and check this hose!" and, sure as hell... I may buy this one when the lease is up in 2019-20; I hear we won't be getting them again. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jul 31, 2018 |
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Jul 31, 2018 05:19
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Last May I replaced my passenger side tail light. Since then I've had 2 turn signal bulbs fail oddly. The filament is perfectly fine but something in the plastic connector burns up. Anything I can do besides throwing bulbs at it every 6 months and hoping nothing else fucks up?
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Jul 31, 2018 05:49
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What car? Had an old Chevy with that issue that had a bad socket that was replaced under warranty.
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Jul 31, 2018 11:42
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Lost in filterchat:Dagen H posted:2002 Civic EX, D17A2, 4AT. It cold-starts/runs/drives fine, but if run up to temp then allowed to heat-soak for 5-15 minutes, it won't run under load. Any attempt to accelerate causes it to cough, sputter, and die. It sounds to me like fuel, but I just installed a new Delphi pump module this spring. I also don't get the heat-soak connection. Thoughts?
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Jul 31, 2018 12:40
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PainterofCrap posted:Words Wow, thanks for the really detailed reply. I showed it to my wife and she was like, wow sounds like a lot of issues. me: sigh She puts 3k on her accord a year, so when someone who actually uses a car has minor in-warranty issues she thinks its a big deal. This may be a barrier to buying literally any car for us, lol. Seriously though, thanks for the effort, I saved the post and will refer back to it when we get closer to pulling the trigger on something.
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Jul 31, 2018 13:16
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I'm rebuilding an old Lancia's brake system and I'm having a problem with the brake master cylinder, which looks like this: (not my picture but my MC is identical) What would cause it to work normally on the mixed circuit (middle hole), including being able to bleed that circuit and use it to brake, but for nothing at all to come out of the front circuit (hole on the left)? I have disassembled it and replaced the seals, the internals all look okay, even the old seals didnt seem too bad.
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Jul 31, 2018 15:04
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Grakkus posted:I'm rebuilding an old Lancia's brake system and I'm having a problem with the brake master cylinder, which looks like this: Something put in backwards? Thats assuming there are no obstructions inside.
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Jul 31, 2018 16:46
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Dagen H posted:2002 Civic EX, D17A2, 4AT. It cold-starts/runs/drives fine, but if run up to temp then allowed to heat-soak for 5-15 minutes, it won't run under load. Any attempt to accelerate causes it to cough, sputter, and die. It sounds to me like fuel, but I just installed a new Delphi pump module this spring. I also don't get the heat-soak connection. Thoughts? According to what I've learned from Car Talk, you might have a bad ignition coil.
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Jul 31, 2018 17:10
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Invalido posted:According to what I've learned from Car Talk, you might have a bad ignition coil. Yeah, I've had that happen to me. If there's a broken wire, it'll be fine when cold but when it heats up the metal expands and the gap will open up.
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Jul 31, 2018 17:20
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Uthor posted:What car? Had an old Chevy with that issue that had a bad socket that was replaced under warranty. 99 Plymouth Voyager, the inspector didn't like a chip in the lens on the original so I ordered on off rockauto.
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Jul 31, 2018 22:00
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1999 Mitsu Gallant with almost 250k miles on it. So it drives fine but the AC has been spotty lately and I'm wondering if something I do is making things worse. When accelerating onto the highway I turn off the AC for a bit until I hit cruising speed, the AC drains enough power during that moment that it's noticable. When I turn the AC back on there's sometimes a cloud of white air. Is the off / on stuff making it worse? Wanna look at new to me cars but it's at 248k and I want to hit the quarter million miles.
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Jul 31, 2018 22:11
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That cloud is probably fog from the evaporator freezing up. Hit up the AC thread if you're interested in fixing it yourself. Or go have a shop squirt a little more refrigerant in, it's probably low. FWIW, I also turn off the ac when trying to get on the highway. Saps too much power, and i'm sure the high RPMs aren't doing the compressor any favors.
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Jul 31, 2018 22:37
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STR posted:That cloud is probably fog from the evaporator freezing up. Most cars shut off the AC compressor automatically under hard acceleration.
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Jul 31, 2018 22:38
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