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There are some really good deals here. They carry mostly badger stuff. I'll probably pick up some of the colored stynylrez primers
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Jul 27, 2018 18:53
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Ristolaz posted:Thanks! I'm gonna try this as well as testing it on some throwaway plastic like someone mentioned. don't listen to that guy blow yourself up in the bathroom
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Jul 27, 2018 18:54
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Booyah- posted:There are some really good deals here. They carry mostly badger stuff apparently the heat gave their layout guy a stroke edit: what's the standard Badger? They're the ones that need the specific connector, right?
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Jul 27, 2018 18:55
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Cat Face Joe posted:apparently the heat gave their layout guy a stroke Badger 105 patriot is the standard recommendation, and I'm pretty happy with mine. They do need a different size connector than standard. I would get a standard quick disconnect for 1/8" hoses and then use this on the airbrush to connect it: https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-51-038-Disconnect/dp/B000BPOJCO
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Jul 27, 2018 22:31
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Cross-Posting from the Oath Thread:bonds0097 posted:Oath Complete
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Jul 28, 2018 01:19
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Gorgeous.
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Jul 28, 2018 01:25
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Also cross-posting from the Oath thread!Duct Tape posted:Oath Complete! I even remembered to waterstamp my username in the photos this time!
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Jul 29, 2018 04:14
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So I went on a bit of a shopping trip today. I found a game store that's not too far out of the way, and they sell a bunch of miniatures and paint. Apart from 40K and Age of Sigmar stuff, they also had a bunch of Reaper Bones and some classic Warhammer Fantasy stuff. I scored both of these for $10. The Guardians I got because they seem like they're pretty simple and have a lot less little details to do compared to the Death Guard. The Orks I got because I've wanted to do orks for a while, though I don't know if the shade of green I've got is going to make them look off (the Kodama Green from the Dungeon Painter set might be too bright). I also got the Army Painter Starter Set (you can't see it, but it also includes a drybrush). I haven't bought any additional paints yet. I almost got some Citadel dry paint to use on the Guardians, but I decided against it after talking with the clerk about the Citadel jars and their longevity after they're opened. Later, I went to Michael's and I was surprised about how much I was able to find that seemed useful for minis. Most of it was along the lines of terrain or decoration, but I also found Krylon primer, which I think someone said I could use for minis (don't know if it's better to go with matte or ultra-flat, though). All I bought for now was some Elmer's Clear Glue and a bag of green grass basing material. I keep thinking about buying some of the acrylic paint I saw in there, but I'm still really hesitant to try anything that's not specifically intended for minis.
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Jul 29, 2018 07:49
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Max Wilco posted:So I went on a bit of a shopping trip today. I found a game store that's not too far out of the way, and they sell a bunch of miniatures and paint. Apart from 40K and Age of Sigmar stuff, they also had a bunch of Reaper Bones and some classic Warhammer Fantasy stuff. Bright green and yellow both make easy base coats for orks. Just follow up with a green or blue wash and they'll look great. Or mix a little blue into your green on the pallet to darken it up. IMO ork armies look best with some variety in the skin tones so you don't have to worry about consistently mixing the same color green. Craft paint is usually sub-par for minis as the pigment isn't as dense or as finely ground as mini paint so it tends to separate when thinned. It's just fine for terrain though.
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Jul 29, 2018 08:04
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This might be a stupid question. My approach to painting my nids' skin is: Corax White Primer > Dry Brush Ceramic White > Shade all the skin lightly with Drakenholf Nightshade (more in recesses) > Coat with white scar I think it's a nice effect because the blue comes out from underneath the skin. However, I'm having serious trouble with the white scar pooling/coming out blotchy and was wondering if anyone could help me? Am I doing something wrong? Are layer paints designed to go over washed areas? Should I just try and fix the blotchy bits with multiple coats?
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Jul 29, 2018 14:40
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I’m assuming you apply the white scar thinned down with water so the paint shows beneath it. Instead of water try using something like Vallejo paint thinner medium. You shouldn’t get the tide marks that water leaves behind. Make sure you’re not just glomping the paint on though, do a couple thin coats instead of one big thick one.
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Jul 29, 2018 21:12
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More cross posting:Major Spag posted:Got some things done:
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Jul 30, 2018 05:48
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Bucnasti posted:Bright green and yellow both make easy base coats for orks. Just follow up with a green or blue wash and they'll look great. Or mix a little blue into your green on the pallet to darken it up. IMO ork armies look best with some variety in the skin tones so you don't have to worry about consistently mixing the same color green. I haven't really gotten to the terrain phrase yet (I need more dudes for that, I think), but along with the grass basing, I also found a bunch of stuff for dioramas and displays at Michael's. I don't have any green or blue washes, but I can try mixing the green with blue or some other color to make it look varied. Alternatively, I'm thinking more and more about buying that Vallejo paint collection, but I'd want to get more minis before I do that. In regards to using Krylon spray primer for minis, which of the two would work better: matte or ultra-flat? I was told that matte has a bit of a shine to it. Also, I think I'm trending toward the pit of buying more minis without working on the ones I already have. So far, all I've done is clip one of the orcs out of the sprue and tried cleaning up the mold-lines a bit, but I'm thinking about buying one of those Getting Started kits. So far, I've tried to lean towards the inexpensive end of things, but a lot of the stuff that I really want to get (Terminators, Mark III Marines, Rubric Marines, Custodes, Flash Gitz, Purestrain Genestealers, Dwarves, etc.) is where the price starts to shoot up severely. The one Getting Started kit I was thinking about was the Blood Angels, if only because you get a nice assortment of marines with some different styles or armor (I want some beakies, dammit.  ) Oddly, there's no Getting Started kits for Dwarves, which I find strange.For now, though, I need to get an actual Exacto knife, because I'm having trouble getting the moldlines off with the rusty, old, off-brand one I have. I can peel lines off here and there, but I have trouble cutting the little bits left over from it was connected to the sprue. Plus, even after I peel some of the lines off, I can still see them. I don't know if that means they're still there, or if just how the plastic look underneath. What I've done is take an emery board for filing nails, and I rub that on area to try and smooth it down. It feels like it's flush, but I'm not sure if the paint will necessarily cover it up. The hardest parts to deal with are the areas that have small rounded bits or folds, like the pants on the orcs, or the hoses on the Death Guard. I know Citadel sells a mold-line remover tool, but it seems like a good hobby knife would work just as well (though Citadel tools seem like they're pretty good quality, if a little showy).
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Jul 30, 2018 07:40
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Badablack posted:I’m assuming you apply the white scar thinned down with water so the paint shows beneath it. Instead of water try using something like Vallejo paint thinner medium. You shouldn’t get the tide marks that water leaves behind. Make sure you’re not just glomping the paint on though, do a couple thin coats instead of one big thick one. Thanks - I'll give this a shot.
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Jul 30, 2018 07:47
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Max Wilco posted:I don't have any green or blue washes, but I can try mixing the green with blue or some other color to make it look varied. Alternatively, I'm thinking more and more about buying that Vallejo paint collection, but I'd want to get more minis before I do that. If you have green or blue acrylic paint, you have a green or blue wash. Depending on the particular qualities of the paint, it might not thin down that well with water, meaning you'll need to throw in some medium (or floor polish), but even if you don't have that handy you may as well try. Just start with around 1 drop of paint to 3 drops water, swipe it around a little bit to check how well you can see through it, then continue diluting until it's translucent. If it becomes uneven or blotchy there's probably insufficient acrylic binder to dilute that heavily with water and you'll need to dilute with a water/medium mix.
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Jul 30, 2018 08:25
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Max Wilco posted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09u1v3T6iv4&t=166s take a look at this exact timestamp and you'll see that it's perfectly fine. The plastic has stressed a little which changes colour, but as long as you scrape it flat with the knife it won't show up when primed.
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Jul 30, 2018 08:56
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Max Wilco posted:In regards to using Krylon spray primer for minis, which of the two would work better: matte or ultra-flat? I was told that matte has a bit of a shine to it. I use ultra-flat but I think both would work.
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Jul 30, 2018 10:44
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More yellows coming in soon. Found a place that gave me $3AUD a pop on some TAP, so I'll be trying the Poisonous Cloud (green tinge, I believe?), Moon Dust, Phoenix Flames (orange, more than yellow), and Daemonic Yellow, and per usual will let you lot know how they stack up next to each other and the existing ones (probably about time to make a chart of them up, actually). While I'm mentioning the green tinged, it's a good time to mention I'm actually colorblind red/green so some of my findings might not fit for others, though I do wear enchroma lenses.
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Jul 30, 2018 14:12
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Max Wilco posted:I haven't really gotten to the terrain phrase yet (I need more dudes for that, I think), but along with the grass basing, I also found a bunch of stuff for dioramas and displays at Michael's. First off, buy a good hobby knife, one with a safety cap, and buy a bunch of replacement blades. Not only will it make it easier to work with, it will also be a lot safer. You're far less likely to slip and hurt yourself with a sharp blade than with a dull one. GW tools are very high quality but generally considered overpriced, you can get as good or better tools for less money individually. Most people use the back of their hobby knife for removing mold line, but I've heard good things about the mold line removing tool, once again there are alternatives that are cheaper. Although I wouldn't recommend getting one of the giant paint sets, because they're usually more expensive than buying by the bottle, and nobody ever uses every color. One of the 16 color starter sets might be a good purchase for someone starting out. The start collecting kits tend to be a good deal, IF you're going to use/paint everything in them. If you're only going to use part of the set it's likely going to be better to buy the models individually. Also if you just want stuff to paint, check out ebay and craigslist, lots of people assemble stuff, then never paint it and dump it on ebay and craigslist cheap.
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Jul 30, 2018 15:16
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Booyah- posted:There are some really good deals here. They carry mostly badger stuff. I'll probably pick up some of the colored stynylrez primers Fyi, I found Merri Artist is also having a sale. They are a couple bucks more, but have free shipping over $90. In addition, they are selling the Iwata Medea Airbrush Cleaner insanely cheap - a 32 oz container is $6.94. Amazon sells the 16 oz container for $9.50. I'm looking at a Badger Xtreme Patriot 105, the Iwata parts mat, and airbrush cleaner coming in at $113.42 shipped. Going through USAAS and Amazon (for the mat and cleaner) I'd be looking at $150.
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Jul 30, 2018 16:23
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Found this YouTube video for improving your cheapo airbrush: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkqCwc5-tbA This was the second time today that heard about using beeswax as a thread locker instead of tape, so I ordered a couple sticks on Amazon. Also need to get some polishing compound for the needle, it seems...
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Jul 30, 2018 18:23
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My thinking is spending more money to make a $25 airbrush perform like a $75 one when, as was discussed earlier, an airbrush setup is costing you probably $300 seems like a false economy. Just get a good airbrush and if you get a cheapie for a spare or to learn on just don't lean on it to perform like a high end airbrush. Even starting out you're probably just going to use it for basecoats or maybe zenithal priming so not like it needs to shoot super fine or perfectly atomized.
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Jul 30, 2018 19:15
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So long as we're all talking about airbrushes, I have a question for my fellow Badger 105 owners. Does that top part even come off? I bought the .03 mm needle for my airbrush and i'd like to try some paneling on my Xiphon, but the 3mm needle came with a similar component to the one in the picture and I can't for the life of me get that top part off of the original. It is really, really on there. Finger tight my rear end. E: The part in question is the "spray regulator" according to the manual, and it looks like it should come off. I don't know if some factory worker got overzealous tightening that thing before they shipped it off or what. Das_Ubermike fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Jul 30, 2018 |
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Jul 30, 2018 20:09
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Yes, that is where tip lives. If it is really, really on there find a scrap of leather and wrap it around it before using pliers. Be really careful not to destroy it. 
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Jul 30, 2018 20:15
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If you've never taken that bit off when cleaning it its almost certainly glued on with paint or varnish, it would have been finger tight to begin with
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Jul 30, 2018 20:20
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Skarsnik posted:If you've never taken that bit off when cleaning it its almost certainly glued on with paint or varnish, it would have been finger tight to begin with Yeah, I never took it off because it was never "finger tight". I had to use pliers just to get the head assembly off the first time. Is there any sort of solvent I can leave it in overnight to loosen up the paint (which I suspect is Vallejo White Surface Primer)? If I can't, it's not the end of the world, it just means that i'm either stuck with using the .05 mm needle that came with the brush or I need to order a new head assembly and spray regulator.
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Jul 30, 2018 20:28
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While you'll need to get it apart to change the needle seat inside I still just use that regulator for my extra fine needle as well. Gives a little more protection for the needle and makes it easier to backflow. Although I do wish they made a fully guarded Iwata-style regulator.
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Jul 30, 2018 20:38
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I painted some Knights. Knight Valiant (High Queen Cassandra Lakar, Piloting the Heirophant of Woe)        Knight Gallant (Mam'sel Loretta Rexas, piloting the Adamant Fury)         And I painted this one back when the kit came out, but just reshot it: Knight Crusader (Duchess Silas Magellan, Piloting the Auric Might)      
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Jul 30, 2018 21:14
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God drat, dude, those are some gorgeous knights! Also, "Hierophant of Woe" is a loving righteous name for a machine of war.
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Jul 30, 2018 21:16
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SRM posted:*awesome knights* It's amazing how much the color scheme seems to change the profile of the Dominus. Where'd you get the Fluer-de-lis transfers from?
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Jul 30, 2018 22:10
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Floppychop posted:It's amazing how much the color scheme seems to change the profile of the Dominus. From Fallout Hobbies unfortunately, who after ordering came out in support of that lovely Manhammer model. I’ll need to find a different decal maker if I ever run out.
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Jul 30, 2018 22:47
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Who do you guys like for custom white decals since Fallout is poo?
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Jul 30, 2018 22:53
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The fallout hobbies ones are also semi transparent. Not ideal.
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Jul 30, 2018 23:30
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Double poo. I might just use yellow or purple to contrast against the red background instead.
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Jul 30, 2018 23:55
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berzerkmonkey posted:This was the second time today that heard about using beeswax as a thread locker instead of tape, so I ordered a couple sticks on Amazon. Also need to get some polishing compound for the needle, it seems... One stick will last you a lifetime. A couple sticks will last you until the heat-death of the universe. Also, just use Chap-Stick.
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Jul 31, 2018 00:23
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SRM posted:I painted some Knights. darnon posted:My thinking is spending more money to make a $25 airbrush perform like a $75 one when, as was discussed earlier, an airbrush setup is costing you probably $300 seems like a false economy. Just get a good airbrush and if you get a cheapie for a spare or to learn on just don't lean on it to perform like a high end airbrush. Even starting out you're probably just going to use it for basecoats or maybe zenithal priming so not like it needs to shoot super fine or perfectly atomized. Bloody Hedgehog posted:One stick will last you a lifetime. A couple sticks will last you until the heat-death of the universe. And chap stick is an oil based wax, so I didn't know how it would hold up to solvents. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 00:48 on Jul 31, 2018 |
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Jul 31, 2018 00:44
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berzerkmonkey posted:And chap stick is an oil based wax, so I didn't know how it would hold up to solvents. Holding up isn't really an issue, since if your cleaning your airbrush at the end of the day, you're going to need to reapply the Chap-Stick/Beeswax after cleaning anyways. Also beeswax doesn't really smell of anything.
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Jul 31, 2018 00:52
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berzerkmonkey posted:Jesus, dude, those are awesome! I imagine you'll be featured by GW at some point in the near future. Thanks man! They featured my Crusader a while ago on Instagram and my Guilliman on the Forgeworld Facebook page, but once I finish the Guard regiment to go with them I want to reach out to White Dwarf or Warhammer Community.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:24
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Man if you ever want to feel like a turd google the model you just finished done by pro painters. These loving unreachable hamchads. Someday 
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Jul 31, 2018 02:17
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Man if you ever want to feel like a turd google the model you just finished done by pro painters. These loving unreachable hamchads. They’re also spending a lot longer per mini than you probably are. We’re talking hundreds of hours for a character here.
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Jul 31, 2018 02:27
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