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BloodBag posted:When I test drove a 135 coupe this was the first sign that the HPFP was on it's way out. I'd say probably the latter. The battery has been out for almost a week, and most connectors have been unplugged for that long. Plus, there was a measurable volume of crud choking the intake tract, so the mixture had to look completely foreign to the car. Plus, instead of a no-start "crank for ~5 seconds and stop if it doesn't catch," this time it cranked for a good 10-12 seconds and I could hear the car going through some iterations to reset.
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Jul 24, 2018 13:39
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EVERYWHERE 
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As long as it hasn't done it on subsequent starts, you're probably good. Until the next thing breaks. 
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Jul 24, 2018 13:45
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BloodBag posted:When I test drove a 135 coupe this was the first sign that the HPFP was on it's way out. The long cranks were fixed with a software update which primes the in tank fuel pump for x seconds when the car is unlocked and before it attempts to start the car. The issue was the fuel would leak back down into the tank and the HPFP wouldn't have any fuel to start it, causing the HPFP to eventually fail. edit: I wouldn't worry about the long start unless it happens again. If it happens again, I'd recommend updating the ECU to the newest software revision. You should be able to do that in INPA/EDIBAS if I remember correctly. You will have to put your battery on a charger because it takes a while to do it and if it drops below ~13v it will fail and you will brick your ECU. doogle fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Jul 24, 2018 |
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Jul 24, 2018 15:46
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Jesus, all this poo poo that has to be known is just mind boggling. The average BMW owner that has no clue about cars just trades them in because this poo poo would absolutely drain your wallet at the dealership. My wife has been looking at used (out of warranty) 3 and 5 series and I just LOL at her
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Jul 24, 2018 18:21
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Yeah, I'm not really worried about the one long crank, keep in mind that I have the fuel system fully opened during the work, too. It was just adjusting itself. Just got back from a 70 mile shakedown run. Did 35 miles at 3k rpm in 5th, which is a recommended treatment to clean poo poo out. I managed to blow out the other bypass valve, so I know they're _both_ secure now.  It's really strong. I'm glad I got that all done and sorted. Now to watch it some more and figure out the couple nagging codes... thermostat heater and 2E7C BSD code. Other than that, just need to look in a few days and see if the valve cover and OFH were the only leaks or if the oil pan is leaking, too. If it's the oil pan... it'll leak for a while.
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Jul 24, 2018 18:24
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Jesus, all this poo poo that has to be known is just mind boggling. The average BMW owner that has no clue about cars just trades them in because this poo poo would absolutely drain your wallet at the dealership. E: VVV For me it is. Hard to get aussie or local parts for a 28 y/o local domestic market only car, but as it's a euro, parts available from UK, europe, Asia and USA. If I had an aussie car then too bad and nowhere else sold them. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:31 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 24, 2018 19:40
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parts availability is not better than for run of the mill domestics and japanese cars
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Jul 24, 2018 20:50
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I had a bitch of a time getting certain parts for my old e46 - a few times I had to get things shipped from Germany. American cars have widespread parts availability at any auto parts store.
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Jul 24, 2018 20:57
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Updates: Put a dual cone intake on and that gave it good turbo sounds and a bit more power. Right now there's still the thermostat and oil level sensor codes, but other than that, it's plugging along. Took it 80 miles yesterday to look at a parts car, 2010 535i sport with 130k miles where the 16 year old son blew the motor. $2500. It was just a bit too rough for me. Had a nice M5 bumper, but it was cracked, the motor looked worse oil and grease-wise than mine and the tires were all mismatched, so parting that stuff would be difficult/annoying, so I passed. Car did great, though 25mpg @77mph and smoooooooth. And it's fast. Traction control in first gear is pretty impressive for a big 4wd wagon. In a small car, this motor would be fantastic. On the looks front, it has the cloudy chrome trim that is ubiquitous to BMW, so I am doing the only realistic option -- DIY shadowline.
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Aug 2, 2018 13:52
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Is that electrical tape I need to do that to the Lexus, but effort. I haven't washed either of my cars in months, I just can't be bothered to care like I used to.
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Aug 2, 2018 16:10
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Is that electrical tape 3m 1080 vinyl.  Probably just relabeled wide electrical tape. Edit: Before:  After: 
meatpimp fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Aug 2, 2018 |
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Aug 2, 2018 16:23
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Outmotoring.com (specializes in Mini’s) sells vinyl in various widths and matte or shine. I got on for my ISF that was perfect width and easy to manipulate around the rear curve.
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Aug 2, 2018 16:30
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Looks way better. I wish they'd stop putting that lovely chrome around the windows on every car ever made.
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Aug 2, 2018 16:56
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Shadowline best line. It really makes the cars look better. I don't understand how some people like the chromed out look. It does look OK on my '87 though which also has chrome on the windows.
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Aug 2, 2018 17:25
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Got both sides done. Took about 3 hours in total. I got really lucky in that my fingernails are strong and sharp. What difference does that make? Well, I was able to wrap and cut them at the same time, using my nails instead of a razor. This worked for about 70% of the cutting. The only down side is that 3 of my nails are now pulled up from the corners and one tore the quick. The price we pay for our cars.  Looks really good, I am okay with chrome in some cars, but there is the matte black roof rail right there and I always thought that clashed. It matches now. And it's crying for a window tint.
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Aug 2, 2018 17:58
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Mine looked great with tint, I forget the level, but its probably not nearly as dark as you need. Totally jealous of your turbos, mine is only acceptable in getting out of its own way.
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Aug 2, 2018 18:04
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Which intake did you go with?
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Aug 3, 2018 16:24
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Sgt Fox posted:Which intake did you go with? For $100, I just went with the Burger kit, they seem to be the standard. Fitment was okay, I need to shorten the tube of the back one to fit perfectly, but 
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Aug 3, 2018 18:12
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Isn't that just turning it into a hot air intake? Is there a housing/cover missing? I see the end of a cold air snorkel there but I don't think it'll contribute all that much when there's not much of a pressure differential due to the rest of the engine bay being relatively open. If it's just for the noises, carry on.
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Aug 3, 2018 18:21
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Bajaha posted:Isn't that just turning it into a hot air intake? Is there a housing/cover missing? It's on the cold side of the motor and the stock airbox is very restrictive. So, in this case, lots of hotter air is better than less slightly cooler air. Multiple dyno tests in all iterations (hood up/hood down/heat soak/etc.) have shown verifiable horsepower gains. From my experience, turbos love love love less restrictions, any way you can get them.
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Aug 3, 2018 18:28
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The hood needs a NACA duct.
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Aug 3, 2018 19:01
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Did you detail that engine bay and not chronicle it for us < >
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Aug 3, 2018 20:11
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Wrar posted:The hood needs a NACA duct. Everything needs NACA ducts.
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Aug 3, 2018 21:35
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What's that aluminum/black plastic device on the front of the engine? I want to say oil filter housing but then it looks like a coolant hose goes to it. What's going on there?
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Aug 4, 2018 10:54
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If is anything like the N43 it’s the oil filter housing which also has an oil/coolant heat exchanger because BMW.
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Aug 4, 2018 11:37
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BloodBag posted:What's that aluminum/black plastic device on the front of the engine? I want to say oil filter housing but then it looks like a coolant hose goes to it. What's going on there? That is superior German engineering. bolind posted:If is anything like the N43 it’s the oil filter housing which also has an oil/coolant heat exchanger because BMW. I don't know about the N43, but the oil filter housing on the N54 is a special kind of stupid. Yes, the large hose coming in from the driver's side is a coolant line. Also the 1 1/2" hose off to the bottom left that looks like it's bolted to the head... is bolted to the head, then immediately flows through the oil filter housing. Which is bolted on to the head with a single gasket that keeps the coolant and oil separate. And there's a second gasket on the front of the oil filter housing. So, the oil system pumps oil through the housing and the coolant circulates through the housing as well. And the gaskets leak. 
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Aug 4, 2018 12:27
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Investigating further, it doesn't seem like you have the heat exchanger: Still a way over-engineered design though. Speaking of N54s, turns out you can get it in a 3-series touring with a manual. In Karmesinrot.
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Aug 4, 2018 14:55
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drat, this thread has me searching craigslist for one of these... drat you meatpimp...
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Aug 4, 2018 15:52
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bolind posted:Investigating further, it doesn't seem like you have the heat exchanger: No heat exchanger, but this passage marked in red is coolant, separated from the oil (with both under pressure), by 1/4" of gasket. 
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Aug 4, 2018 15:57
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What has your overall budget been for this project?
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Aug 4, 2018 16:42
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In the BMW thread he said $1700. All this BS is for EPA mileage figures: E: well euro efficiency standards too, just got to edit that in so people don't think I'm blaming USA drat, now I know why some people are sticklers for m30s, m50s, or just lsx/1.5jz/rb25 swap the things - J/K I already knew and one of those options is already in my plans. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:35 on Aug 4, 2018 |
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Aug 4, 2018 17:25
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Phone posted:What has your overall budget been for this project? Fo3 is right. All told, right now I'm into it for $5600. That includes $4k purchase price and immediately selling the rack for $250. I didn't want to go above $5000, but BMW and deferred maintenance recovery. I'm pretty comfortable with where I'm at cost-wise, I could easily get $7500-8000 for it. So, as long as I don't have anything major blow up, it's just like driving money in the bank. Dagen H posted:Did you detail that engine bay and not chronicle it for us < If you've been on the meatpimp detailing train for long enough, you'll be pleased to know that I used the WD40 trick after a Zymol Strik washdown. Not a lot to chronicle.
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Aug 4, 2018 19:42
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WD40 trick?
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Aug 4, 2018 20:25
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Phone posted:WD40 trick? The difference between:   And this:   Is literally just a broadcast mist/spray of WD40. These pictures came from ~2006 when I did a show-and-tell on AI about this, but I can't find the thread. I've been doing this for over 15 years and have never had any bit of trouble from it. WD40 is pretty non-aggressive and just gives a nice satin coating.
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Aug 4, 2018 20:56
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I changed my oil today. Having just read this, I thought "Man, I should wipe down my engine bay", but then I realized it's 90*, the car is black, and the driveway is also black. So, I checked the oil pressure, reset the service, and went inside for a beer. Maybe next time.
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Aug 5, 2018 21:50
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This thread makes me not want to buy a Bimmer. But I appreciate your suffering for the enjoyment of us all.
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Aug 5, 2018 22:22
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Wickerman posted:This thread makes me not want to buy a Bimmer. But I appreciate your suffering for the enjoyment of us all. Suffering. Yep. So I've got two concerns. As soon as I fix one, the other will remain. I get a 2e7c code about the BSD bus. That bus takes signals from the integrated battery monitor, alternator, water pump, and oil level monitor. I cannot get anything else from the car, other than that error, and the fact that the oil level sensor isn't online. I'd just replace the oil level sensor, but there's no guarantee that is the problem, because ANY of the devices on the bus can put the bus offline. So, I can replace the sensor for $200, but it's a wild-rear end guess. The other problem is an oil leak. The valve cover and oil filter housings were both leaking, but the oil pan is, too. The oil pan is a ridiculous pain in the rear end, since you have to drop the subframe. But, you don't only have to drop the subframe, it's 4 wheel drive, and the front axles go through a hole CAST into the oil pan. So, to drop the subframe, you have to remove the front drive equipment. It's not pretty. So... I have an oil leak (maybe 5 drops per night. Significant, but not deal-breaking), but I cannot check the oil because BMW got rid of dipsticks and went with a fully electronic version, which on my car is broken. So the only way to check the oil level is to drain and measure the amount. Not ideal, for sure. The mitigating factor, though, is that the rest of the car is soooo nice. It's unbelievably smooth on the freeway and with ~400 crank HP, it's silly fun to mash the go pedal. So yeah... BMW.
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Aug 5, 2018 23:14
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Oh. I didn't catch that before. My 06 needed one replacement oil level sensor, my dad's 07 needed two. Granted, N52 engines, but a bit suspicious. I don't recall if my 09 had it replaced or not.
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Aug 5, 2018 23:21
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How's access to the sensor? You could multimeter it and check the output no? Or is it too CANbussy for that?
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Aug 5, 2018 23:50
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opengl128 posted:How's access to the sensor? You could multimeter it and check the output no? Or is it too CANbussy for that? Access is easy, unfortunately, it's only power, ground and output signal. I don't have an oscilloscope to look at the output, but that may not be a bad idea... just get a cheap android adapter to try to look at the waveform of the output. Although I'm in past my depth at that point.
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Aug 6, 2018 00:03
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