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Listerine posted:Do any of you fine folks print with flexible materials? Yep. I basically took my PLA profile, disabled retraction in favor of coasting/wiping, and adjusted temps per the supplier. Printed just fine.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:09
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Yep. I basically took my PLA profile, disabled retraction in favor of coasting/wiping, and adjusted temps per the supplier. Is it difficult to manage as far as loading? I just had my department order me a couple spools to start testing it out and any tips on handling would be great.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:24
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EVIL Gibson posted:This sounds less like network issues since once it has the gcode, it doesn't give a gently caress about network. The Pi is currently powered off one of the disk power connectors of an ATX power supply. The Printrbot I have is the heated bed model which needs a fair amount of power (ATX seems like overkill, but since I have it, it may as well juice the Pi while its at it...) It turns out I had a fairly old version of Raspbian with tools that aren't compatible with recent builds of Octopi. I must have hit the upgrade link the last time I used it and forgotten it went south at that point (not to go all EN but life's kinda been complicated the last few months). I'm creating a new card with the latest stuff.
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Jul 31, 2018 01:25
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Listerine posted:Is it difficult to manage as far as loading? I just had my department order me a couple spools to start testing it out and any tips on handling would be great. It depends on your printer. If there are any gaps between the extruder gear and the hot end, flexible filament will find its way to bend out of that gap and ruin everything. The good thing is it's usually easy to alter the printer to remove any gaps.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:17
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Listerine posted:Is it difficult to manage as far as loading? I just had my department order me a couple spools to start testing it out and any tips on handling would be great. You're using a Taz 5, right? It's not a Bowden extruder, so that's good. Also I guess the 3mm filament should be less prone to buckling than 1.75mm.
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Jul 31, 2018 05:53
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Well, I hosed up and random-bidded on an XYZ 2.0A Duo printer for $200 on ebay that claims to be new-in-package and forgot about it (auction ran for a whole month, lol). I "won" it, now I'm trying to decide what to do with it when it comes in. Are there any guides on bypassing the chipped filament bullshit for that particular printer?
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Jul 31, 2018 15:11
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Well, I hosed up and random-bidded on an XYZ 2.0A Duo printer for $200 on ebay that claims to be new-in-package and forgot about it (auction ran for a whole month, lol). You can apparently flash the controller with Repetier. https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-Firmware-4-Davinci
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Jul 31, 2018 16:13
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Hey team, I decided to get ballsy and bit off more than I could chew. Instead of buying a kit, I ended up parting myself a prusa i3 mk2 myself. Does anyone know of a place where I can get the hardware altogether? I'm at a stand-still (also dealing with a wedding) and I'm beginning to get disheartened. Most of the plastic parts were printed by a friend. I got an aluminum frame and carriage. I've got most of the electronics, including the motors with the screw rods. https://toms3d.org/2017/02/23/building-cheapest-possible-prusa-i3-mk2/ This was my inspiration. Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jul 31, 2018 |
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Jul 31, 2018 18:27
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yeesh, sourcing all the hardware is the one thing I'd buy an all included DIY kit to avoid. Everything else can be had pretty simply, but you're going to need 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 18mm, 20+mm bolts and you're just going to have to figure out what goes where rather than have a kit tell you "take 4 bolts from the 8mm bag and use them on this piece" So you'll probably need a kit of m3 nuts and bolts to avoid buying all that individually. Just figuring out what length bolt will go where will be a big hassle but you can certainly do it.
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Jul 31, 2018 18:35
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Speaking of that, why isn't there a Chinese company pumping out straight up i3 MK2/MK3 clones? Or is there and I just haven't heard of it?
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Jul 31, 2018 18:40
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bring back old gbs posted:yeesh, sourcing all the hardware is the one thing I'd buy an all included DIY kit to avoid. Everything else can be had pretty simply, but you're going to need 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 16mm, 18mm, 20+mm bolts and you're just going to have to figure out what goes where rather than have a kit tell you "take 4 bolts from the 8mm bag and use them on this piece" It is here that I realized I flew too close to the sun. bleh.
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Jul 31, 2018 18:44
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BMan posted:Speaking of that, why isn't there a Chinese company pumping out straight up i3 MK2/MK3 clones? Or is there and I just haven't heard of it? A lot of the printers mentioned in this thread are clones. Only prusa himself can say his are not prusa clones 
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Jul 31, 2018 18:56
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BMan posted:Speaking of that, why isn't there a Chinese company pumping out straight up i3 MK2/MK3 clones? Or is there and I just haven't heard of it? Mimicking the Ultimachine boards/stepper drivers is a real pain in the rear end on the "make it as cheap as you can" model.
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Jul 31, 2018 18:58
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EngineerJoe posted:It depends on your printer. If there are any gaps between the extruder gear and the hot end, flexible filament will find its way to bend out of that gap and ruin everything. The good thing is it's usually easy to alter the printer to remove any gaps. I don't think there are, the new dual extruder is pretty closed in, but it's good to know that's a thing I have to watch out for, so thanks. BMan posted:You're using a Taz 5, right? It's not a Bowden extruder, so that's good. Also I guess the 3mm filament should be less prone to buckling than 1.75mm. Correct, and your post just reminded me that I forgot to check the size of the filament I ordered- you just saved me wasting $100 on the wrong filament, so super thanks for that.
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Jul 31, 2018 21:50
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I've got an Anycube Photon on the way, time to dive into DLP.
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Jul 31, 2018 22:25
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Signal posted:I've got an Anycube Photon on the way, time to dive into DLP. I just got one last weekend and after awhile of FDM printing the detail is just ludicrous.  I’ve been printing mostly DnD minis this week but I’m going to try some jewelry style things. My wedding ring is falling of super bad so I’m thinking of making a new one.
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Aug 1, 2018 01:48
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Thorpe posted:I just got one last weekend and after awhile of FDM printing the detail is just ludicrous. Gummy Venus de Milo!
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Aug 1, 2018 07:17
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Please don't try to eat resins.
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Aug 1, 2018 11:33
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n0tqu1tesane posted:You can apparently flash the controller with Repetier. https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-Firmware-4-Davinci Well poo poo, I'm not going to risk killing the board by shorting jumpers while the machine is powering up. Ah well, it's not like the filament is *that* expensive from XYZ when they run their silly "Buy a shitload of filament for cheap!" sales. And a dedicated ABS printer for $200 isn't bad if it actually prints ABS well. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Aug 1, 2018 |
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Aug 1, 2018 14:58
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Cannon_Fodder posted:Hey team, I decided to get ballsy and bit off more than I could chew. I self sourced a prusa mendel i1/i2 crossbreed (sae fasteners varient) back in the day. eBay and Amazon. You're not going to find the electronics, hotend, build plate, or filament drive locally. Get the belts and bearings too. Most of the hardware is pretty easy to get. I recommend going to a medium to small hardware store first, as the big box hardware stores can be limited in their small metric fastener selection. It's really not hard as such, it's more that you lack instructions, and will run into unexpected issues that will block you until you make a trip or wait for shipping.
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Aug 1, 2018 17:19
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Thorpe posted:I just got one last weekend and after awhile of FDM printing the detail is just ludicrous. I was on the fence about the photon but I just plummeted off to the other side.
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Aug 1, 2018 17:37
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Aurium posted:I self sourced a prusa mendel i1/i2 crossbreed (sae fasteners varient) back in the day. My biggest blocker so far has been a loving wedding, funding it, and finding a weekend to myself. I live near some decent sports that carry metric. Time to throw together a shopping list. I'll source the smooth rods off-line.
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Aug 1, 2018 19:58
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Smooth rods are another thing I'd recommend buying online. Hardware store selection of non threaded rod is spotty, and often isn't straightness controlled. They aren't hard to find at metal supply stores, (again often not straightness controlled) but they're so cheap to get online that I recommend that route. They're also often hardened which is a good bonus. If you do go local, you should know that 5/16rod is within .07mm of 8mm rod, so it's pretty much always in tolerance and works fine. It's often cheaper or more available.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:18
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If you want primo smooth rod, McMaster-Carr stocks rods that are guaranteed straight within some crazy amount like 0.001" over a foot. Also hardened.
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Aug 2, 2018 12:49
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I'm continuing with my hacking together of a direct drive system, it's gunna be heavy as gently caress, but I think I should be able work with it, If nothing else it's great modelling practice that will be available to the community at the end of the day  
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Aug 2, 2018 13:00
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Well poo poo, I'm not going to risk killing the board by shorting jumpers while the machine is powering up. Ugh. The printer arrived yesterday evening. Opened the box this morning and set it up, powered it up and it attempted to home. That's where things went wrong. X-axis seems to home properly, but Y-axis makes a horrible grinding noise and fails to home, then the printer alarms out and flashes an error code that simply means "fault in Y-axis; Y-axis cannot move or Y-axis cannot home". Found a video on Youtube for how to adjust the belt tension, did that, but the Y-axis still fails to move for homing (and when the machine is off I can't physically push the Y-axis at all). But still makes the horrible buzzing/grinding noise. gently caress.
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Aug 2, 2018 13:51
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Are you sure there's not some kind of mechanical stopper installed for shipping that you have to remove? That's very common on large equipment and I've seen it on some 3d printers too. Look carefully along the axes for an odd plastic block or screw that might be preventing movement.
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Aug 2, 2018 16:37
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Yeah that's not uncommon with 3D printers and the blocks can look like part of the machine at casual inspection. Prusa is in my limited experience the only one that specifically pointed them out and tells you what to do with em, though.
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Aug 2, 2018 17:10
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Parts Kit posted:If you want primo smooth rod, McMaster-Carr stocks rods that are guaranteed straight within some crazy amount like 0.001" over a foot. Also hardened. If you do order from them, be aware that lengths longer than 1 ft will usually be put in a 4 foot long, sturdy as hell cardboard tube that they charge you 20 dollars for. They dont show shipping costs before you order so it can be an annoying surprise when your 20 dollar order is suddenly 40.
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Aug 2, 2018 17:49
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Sagebrush posted:Are you sure there's not some kind of mechanical stopper installed for shipping that you have to remove? That's very common on large equipment and I've seen it on some 3d printers too. Look carefully along the axes for an odd plastic block or screw that might be preventing movement. Yeah, they were bright orange and the instructions pointed them out. I removed all of those.
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Aug 2, 2018 18:15
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Update! Got the side panels off and discovered that pretty much every single screw on the frame is loose. Found the right head screwdriver (star-shaped, matched up exactly to the Torx head used on a face mill with indexed teeth) and tightened everything up. Now the machine homes without errors, but Extruder #1's heater is dead. Now trying to figure out how to get XYZware to generate a program with Extruder #2 to print a test.
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Aug 2, 2018 19:18
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If you're going to be tinkering with it and it's got torx bits, I cannot recommend this set of drivers enough. https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-36291-Screwdriver-Torx-Piece/dp/B002C582AQ They also make a "precision" set that is numbers 1-8.
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Aug 2, 2018 22:17
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Great Beer posted:If you do order from them, be aware that lengths longer than 1 ft will usually be put in a 4 foot long, sturdy as hell cardboard tube that they charge you 20 dollars for. They dont show shipping costs before you order so it can be an annoying surprise when your 20 dollar order is suddenly 40. See, I've found the complete opposite. I order 6' pieces of 1/4" SS tubing for hydraulic lines, and get charged like $11 for shipping. I don't complain about that. My last order with long parts was something like 15 pounds of SS hardware in one box, and 3x 6' pieces of SS tube in a long tube. Shipping: $24.
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Aug 3, 2018 03:00
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Update! It would also help to disconnect the heater #1 and test the connector with an ohmeter/multimeter if the circuit is open, meaning a break somewhere along the wiring or possibly internal to the heating element. If the ohmeter reads a plausible heater value of a few ohms, then its possible that the fault is not in the heater/wiring, but in the mosfet on the control board which drives the heater, in that case swapping heater wires wouldn't solve the issue. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 06:59 on Aug 3, 2018 |
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Aug 3, 2018 06:53
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peepsalot posted:No idea what the electronics look like on that printer, but you might be able to just swap the heater power connectors at the control board. So that the software can still generate commands to power up "extruder #1", but you'll have extruder #2 plugged in instead. (edit: oh and also swap the extruder motor and temperature sensor connectors) The hack/custom/repetier guides on the internet for it say it is using the same processor as the Arduino Due, but with a different PCB layout (this is why the Repetier firmware fork for it works). I plan to replace the heater cartridge itself "later/at some point", but for the time being I'm just using Simplify3d's profile for it and "Left Extruder (#2) only" options. It successfully printed a calibration cube yesterday, but I tossed the cube without taking any pics. It's loaded up in my car to take home after I get out of work today, to set up in my shop at home for a dedicated ABS printer with Octoprint (which ought to be fun to set up).
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Aug 3, 2018 13:54
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So I've been tasked with hunting down a 3d printer for work. Going to be used to print 3d models of the mine I work at. Looking for something in the $1500-$2500 CDN range - size of bed and quality are bigger concerns than anything else. I've only looked into home-3d printers, so this is a bit bigger than what I've investigated on my own. Any quick suggestions/directions folks can throw my way?
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Aug 4, 2018 00:30
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The darling for large form factor prints at the moment is the cr-10 series by creality. You should be able to get some good quality prints with a minor amount of fussing about
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Aug 4, 2018 01:05
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Siochain posted:So I've been tasked with hunting down a 3d printer for work. Going to be used to print 3d models of the mine I work at. Looking for something in the $1500-$2500 CDN range - size of bed and quality are bigger concerns than anything else. Ultimakers are pretty high quality and seem to have a lot of business use, but are also a bit pricey and don't have huge build volumes. The Raise N2 is a large build volume high quality machine but again is kind of expensive (~5k+). The Lulzbot Taz6 is used by a lot of semi-professional businesses but is at the top of your price range (2500 USD on their website). With the current budget I'd figure out the build volume you want and maybe consider a Creality CR-10S model that has that volume. I think the S4 is 400x400x400 and the S5 is 500x500x500 or thereabouts. Maybe the extra budget can be for fitting a large extruder if you need to print huge stuff on that bed. The downside of creality is going to be slow or lacking support since it's a chinese import. The other companies I mentioned have north american support options but obviously cost a bit more than your budget.
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Aug 4, 2018 01:06
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Rexxed posted:The Lulzbot Taz6 is used by a lot of semi-professional businesses but is at the top of your price range (2500 USD on their website). I'm using the prior model Taz5, I went with that because the company offers a warranty, the printer comes more or less assembled, the bed size was pretty large for the offerings at the time, and they have a support line. They could also deal with a purchase order, as I was buying for my department and not personally. Our university library is also running their machines. I've generally been happy with it and their support line has always been good to me. Their instructions are good for someone that is not terribly mechanically inclined. The new Taz6 has an auto-leveling bed which I imagine would be helpful in terms of ease of use, but since I don't have that model I can't comment on the ease of use. The machine ships with a single extruder, 0.5 mm nozzle that takes 3.00 mm filament. They offer a number of toolheads, one of which is the unfortunately named moarstruder that is a 1.2 mm nozzle so you can print much larger prints faster, if that's what you need. I haven't used it but I have used several of their other toolheads and changing the toolhead is easy. I would not recommend their new dual extruder, V3, since they've put the two hotends really close together in the same heatsink block, and heat creep with PLA is a real problem. If you needed dual extrusion I would try to find one of their old V2. That's my 2 cents from the perspective of someone buying for a department.
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Aug 4, 2018 07:50
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Siochain posted:So I've been tasked with hunting down a 3d printer for work. Going to be used to print 3d models of the mine I work at. Looking for something in the $1500-$2500 CDN range - size of bed and quality are bigger concerns than anything else. Seconding Lulzbot. I’ve a wanhao d4 and Bigbox at home but when it’s for work and there’s the budget I looked at the ultimaker and Taz and the Taz won out on the flexibility. Flexystruder, moarstruder, dualstruder all available as simple swaps. And it just works, no tweaking, modding, maintainence, iffy power connections, slight risk of catastrophic fires, non contactable/non existent support. In a small way you’re staking your reputation on whatever you go for, think of it that way.
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Aug 4, 2018 09:13
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