Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Feenix posted:

72 hours of a point-blank fan over my smelly charcuterie board. I mean, I think it smells IMPROVED, but it could be my mind playing tricks on me. How long should I expect to run air over it before I realize it's not the solution I seek?

If you keep doing things to that board, it's going to get a restraining order.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.

Hypnolobster posted:

If you keep doing things to that board, it's going to get a restraining order.

My board, my rules. :p

Good points all. It's been like 2+ months, I think, at this point? I just didn't know what to consider normal for offgassing. (Not that anything about what I did to that board is normal...)

in other news, my end grain cutting board is great, just.. really, REALLY dark (the black walnut, when oiled, got really dark, and the purpleheart was already a rich dark color.)

Is there way to fade it or something, in the sun? Is that a thing? Is it safe? (other than to the color, that is...)

Feenix fucked around with this message at 23:18 on Aug 3, 2018

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Feenix posted:

My board, my rules. :p

Good points all. It's been like 2+ months, I think, at this point? I just didn't know what to consider normal for offgassing. (Not that anything about what I did to that board is normal...)

in other news, my end grain cutting board is great, just.. really, REALLY dark (the black walnut, when oiled, got really dark, and the purpleheart was already a rich dark color.)

Is there way to fade it or something, in the sun? Is that a thing? Is it safe? (other than to the color, that is...)

It is called black walnut for a reason. Purple Heart will go more brown than purple over time, and walnut also does lighten somewhat with age. Some sunlight would probably accelerate that process somewhat. End grain is also always darker too. Kiln dried/steamed walnut tends to be a little lighter, but also kind of grey and boring. Peruvian/South American walnut is even darker than black walnut!

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



His Divine Shadow posted:

Today I made a couple of jigs for the grinder. An extremely simple one for the chisels, just two pieces of wood, cut threads right into the wood on one piece.





Then a bit more advanced one for axes, copied tormeks jig for this:







I have freehanded a knife and chisel so far and I seem to be able to get a good hair shave sharpness pretty easily after I hone it. Next up is a knife jig.



You rule, dude

Thrasophius
Oct 27, 2013

GEMorris posted:

Sharpening is a critical part of using any bladed tool, so yeah youre going to need a solution for sharpening as well.

K I'll take a look at some stuff and practice on some old kitchen knives I don't use anymore.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

It is called black walnut for a reason. Purple Heart will go more brown than purple over time, and walnut also does lighten somewhat with age. Some sunlight would probably accelerate that process somewhat. End grain is also always darker too. Kiln dried/steamed walnut tends to be a little lighter, but also kind of grey and boring. Peruvian/South American walnut is even darker than black walnut!

Yeah it’s totally just an aesthetic error on my part... but black walnut (pre oiling) was fairly different (lighter) than Purpleheart. I got duped. :p

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Thrasophius posted:

K I'll take a look at some stuff and practice on some old kitchen knives I don't use anymore.
You can do a ton with just a plain Sloyd knife or similar.

Pissed Ape Sexist
Apr 19, 2008

Jhet posted:

I had a stool that I expected to be done in a week and it took well over a month. It helped that I moved to a warm place with good ventilation, but aside from that it was mostly just the time.

Dear God, man, see a doctor

MaliciousOnion
Sep 23, 2009

Ignorance, the root of all evil

Pissed Ape Sexist posted:

Dear God, man, see a doctor

:perfect:

Putrid Grin
Sep 16, 2007

Quick and possibly silly question for you guys and gals.
I am making a circular black walnut table, and am planning on using a router to cut the circle out of my glued up boards. I want to give the edges a nice roman ogee profile, and was wondering if I can use that bit for cutting the circle out or will the profile somehow lack the cutting power and need to do the cutting with the straight bit and then do the edging?

nielsm
Jun 1, 2009



The edging bit needs to remove much more material, so you need to move the router slower to let it cut, and then you have higher risk of burn marks.

Thrasophius
Oct 27, 2013

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

You can do a ton with just a plain Sloyd knife or similar.

Would a mora 120 be a good starting point? I'm seeing that recommended a lot for a beginner and it says it's a kind of sloyd knife.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Putrid Grin posted:

Quick and possibly silly question for you guys and gals.
I am making a circular black walnut table, and am planning on using a router to cut the circle out of my glued up boards. I want to give the edges a nice roman ogee profile, and was wondering if I can use that bit for cutting the circle out or will the profile somehow lack the cutting power and need to do the cutting with the straight bit and then do the edging?
Best is to cut to within 1/8" or so of your circle with a bandsaw/jigsaw, then use a straight bit to get it to size. Saws cut wood much more efficiently than routers, but if all you've got is a router you could do it all with a straight bit in a few passes. I don't think your ogee bit would do the job of cutting out the circle. Also, with a circular table top you are going to cutting against the grain a good bit, so take light passes and keep your travel speed slow (but not so slow it burns) to minimize tearout.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Made a smaller moxon vise, because big ones are dumb. I made a 26" capacity moxon like 2 years ago and I never ever use the thing because it's enormous. This one is just some ash I had sitting around and $30 in hardware from eBay. I didn't even measure, but it's somewhere around 17" between the screws. I just made it to what felt comfortable/what I had material to make.




Knobs out of black locust because it's heavy as hell, and now it does the Benchcrafted spin all the way in deal.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Aug 5, 2018

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Bandsaw turned up





With original typed manual and brochure, also an unopened 1/4" axminster blade. I cleaned it up, freed up the table tilt, cleaned up the 1/2" blade that was in there, made the electrics marginally safer. Ordering a replacement 1/2" blade and drive belt soon and I need a bigass ripping blade to take advantage of that 7"+ height capacity.

I'm now going to have a hell of a lot of fun making bandsaw boxes because why not.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
That is awesome

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Hypnolobster posted:

Made a smaller moxon vise, because big ones are dumb. I made a 26" capacity moxon like 2 years ago and I never ever use the thing because it's enormous. This one is just some ash I had sitting around and $30 in hardware from eBay. I didn't even measure, but it's somewhere around 17" between the screws. I just made it to what felt comfortable/what I had material to make.




Knobs out of black locust because it's heavy as hell, and now it does the Benchcrafted spin all the way in deal.
That looks great. Pretty curl in the Ash. Ash is one of my very favorite woods to work with, but not always to look at and yours is gorgeous. What wood is your bench? Almost looks like walnut. How’d you make your knobs? Something with the toolmarks in the last picture doesn’t look like it was turned on a lathe.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

That looks great. Pretty curl in the Ash. Ash is one of my very favorite woods to work with, but not always to look at and yours is gorgeous. What wood is your bench? Almost looks like walnut. How’d you make your knobs? Something with the toolmarks in the last picture doesn’t look like it was turned on a lathe.

Thanks! I really like ash, and with the ash borer stressing and then killing every single one we have here, it's making for some really striking grain in most of the trees I mill. The bench top is black locust, legs are red oak and the stretchers are ash.

I roughed out the knobs round on the bandsaw, and then made a tablesaw sled with a 5/8 pin and did a sort of rotary cove cut to carve out that part of the knob you spotted with the weird toolmarks. Turned them round/beveled with the same jig on the disc sander. I really don't want a lathe because I don't have the space, but at the same time I really need a lathe.

Feenix
Mar 14, 2003
Sorry, guy.
Everyone really needs a lathe.

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
I'm replacing a table top on a Wayfare cheapo table with slightly less-cheapo pine and I'm not sure the best way to finish it.

It needs to be black, which means paint, but there has to be something better for this than interior latex from Lowe's that's been sitting in my garage for 2 years.

Also, I know pine is soft and is going to dent all to hell, which is fine, but is there anything I can do to make it stand up to little people a bit better? Just poly over the paint or is there something better?

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
SHOU SUGI BAN

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer

Phone posted:

SHOU SUGI BAN

https://www.architecturaldigest.com/story/shou-sugi-ban-black-waterproof-wood-furniture

Any of you actually done this because ... hell MAYBE?

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Not yet. :v:

It probably won't turn out black black, but I think you can control the color with how long you torch it and how aggressive you get with the brushing.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Or alternatively just a good hard enamel paint. A water-based alkyd paint, or an oil-based enamel, not a soft latex "enamel" paint. I've read that a factory-tinted paint will be better than one that is mixed in the store, because it will contain more resin? Something like that.

e., but the torching thing would be hella cool, I just wouldn't use my first try at it on something that I was making for someone else, vs. experimenting on my own stuff at home where if I ruin everything I'm OK with throwing it all out.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Huxley posted:

I'm replacing a table top on a Wayfare cheapo table with slightly less-cheapo pine and I'm not sure the best way to finish it.

It needs to be black, which means paint, but there has to be something better for this than interior latex from Lowe's that's been sitting in my garage for 2 years.

Also, I know pine is soft and is going to dent all to hell, which is fine, but is there anything I can do to make it stand up to little people a bit better? Just poly over the paint or is there something better?
Sherwin Williams ProClassic is a good water based alkyd enamel that should hold up well.

Mister Dog
Dec 27, 2005

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Sherwin Williams ProClassic is a good water based alkyd enamel that should hold up well.

Listen to this man

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
I told my wife about our options, and she was much more enthusiastic about the option where I buy a $20 quart of paint than the one where I buy a $40 propane torch.

Though she did finally say, "you do what you gotta do."

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Huxley posted:

I told my wife about our options, and she was much more enthusiastic about the option where I buy a $20 quart of paint than the one where I buy a $40 propane torch.

Though she did finally say, "you do what you gotta do."
She sounds like she might be a witch and you should buy the torch anyway to burn her.

She might also be shocked at the cost of good paint.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I've painted my house and all trim and I'm still shocked at the cost of good paint.

Thrasophius
Oct 27, 2013

Ok so I have my carving knife now and have carved a simple handle for it to get used to the different cuts and it turned out good and is really comfortable to use.

Started my next simple little project but had to stop due to the blade not being as sharp. I cannot for the life of me find sharpening compound. I've searched all hardware stores near me and everything online that can be delivered in a reasonable time is super expensive or will take 4-8weeks at the usual price.

What are some good alternatives for stropping compound?

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
https://twitter.com/Mr_Mike_Clarke/status/1025771089627164672

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Hit a big milestone on the TV console today, the first dry assembly of the major case components. I was pleased that all the joinery lined up great. I decided to add shelves to the left and right compartments. I thought I would, but I wanted to assemble it before I did the work of making those panels. The center shelf ended up a good 3/16" too short, so I'll need to re-make it. Luckily I can cannibalize it to turn into one of the narrower shelves for the sides, so that work won't go entirely to waste. After the shelves, I need to make the toe kick and the similar piece for the back of the top. Still hoping to have at least the case finished and glued up before winter. The doors will likely have to be finished and installed in the spring at this rate.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

Thrasophius posted:

Ok so I have my carving knife now and have carved a simple handle for it to get used to the different cuts and it turned out good and is really comfortable to use.

Started my next simple little project but had to stop due to the blade not being as sharp. I cannot for the life of me find sharpening compound. I've searched all hardware stores near me and everything online that can be delivered in a reasonable time is super expensive or will take 4-8weeks at the usual price.

What are some good alternatives for stropping compound?

What you want is green polishing/buffing compound, technically called chromium oxide paste. It's sold in ridiculously large blocks on Amazon. Honestly if you're in the US and you PM me your address I'll drop a hunk in the mail for you, it would take fifty lifetimes to go through the brick I bought.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
im youtube famous

Thrasophius
Oct 27, 2013

ColdPie posted:

What you want is green polishing/buffing compound, technically called chromium oxide paste. It's sold in ridiculously large blocks on Amazon. Honestly if you're in the US and you PM me your address I'll drop a hunk in the mail for you, it would take fifty lifetimes to go through the brick I bought.

Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it but I'm all the way in Japan at the moment. I've managed to find some though. Found it in a tiny little independent hardware store so I'm pretty happy. Just gotta strop my knife and I can get back to carving. I'm gonna post a picture of the finished result. If it isn't horrendous that is.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Thrasophius posted:

Thanks for the offer I really appreciate it but I'm all the way in Japan at the moment. I've managed to find some though. Found it in a tiny little independent hardware store so I'm pretty happy. Just gotta strop my knife and I can get back to carving. I'm gonna post a picture of the finished result. If it isn't horrendous that is.

Did someone say knife sharpening in Japan?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azbzAxxflO8

Huxley
Oct 10, 2012



Grimey Drawer
Another table top question. I'm gluing up two "stain grade" preglued panels from Lowes, a pair of 24x48s to make my square. So I'll only have one seam and the wood will be pretty flat from the go.

I don't need to true flat and surface the whole thing, I'm going to sand up to 200 once I get that seam leveled out, but I know from previous glueups, there's going to be some wobble down that line that the sander won't get rid of to my satisfaction.

Would a little block plane be enough to get that one seam down or is that asking for trouble? Is it just going to leave a weird stripe down the middle of my table that I also won't be able to sand out?

Mr Executive
Aug 27, 2006

Mr Executive posted:

So I made a thing you guys might like, but I kinda hosed it up, and now I need some help salvaging it.

I built this little cabinet that sticks off the side of the fridge cabinet (replacement molding hasn't come in yet).




The problem is I applied 3 solid coats of cross-contaminated Minwax poly to the door after painting it a color-matched white. The door is very noticeably yellow-tinged and kinda ugly. I'm really not jazzed about stripping off the poly and refinishing, but I think it might actually look decent if I was able to apply some sort gray tinted poly over the top. What would be my best options for throwing on another coat without re-prepping??

Hey, remember when I did this dumb thing? Well i finally got around to finishing it. I sanded the door to rough up the poly and put a couple more coats of white paint on top. Then I applied some brand new, untainted poly and.....it yellowed again. So I sanded it again, and put on a couple more coats of paint. I'm leaving it like that for now.

I also got my first taste of installing crown molding. That was fun.

peepsalot
Apr 24, 2007

        PEEP THIS...
           BITCH!

MetaJew posted:

Did someone say knife sharpening in Japan?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=azbzAxxflO8
I guess "plate" is a mis-translation of slate?

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
No, unless I linked the wrong video, he literally used a ceramic bowl as a sharpening stone.
Edit: I think I linked the wrong video of his.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply