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Darchangel posted:It's still a vacuum after a couple of hours. The decrease in vacuum (or increase in pressure, actually) should be from whatever moisture was in there from being open boiling off, as I understand it. Remember that I had to leave it with a major leak overnight. Normally a pro would use dry nitrogen positive pressure to find a leak, but I'm thinking, just to help you out do you have a compressor with a good drier on it? I would never use compressed air when I was a professional of course but we know compression pulls moisture from the air as heaps ends up in the tank, and with a drier in line surely it would be better charging it up for a static pressure test than just slapping gas into a wet system and running it? Get 110 PSI in it (or the best you can) and check pipes, joints, coils, compressor and evap while you have access to it with soapy water? E: Might be crazy but I'm trying to find a way to help without proper leak testing gear. 'some sort of vacuum' isn't good enough, you need a good full vacuum. On lovely set of analog gauges any movement is really bad, they are so in accurate for vacuum they wouldn't move at all even for a minor leak so you have a large leak. I wouldn't even continue evac if my digital micron gauge didn't get below 2500 microns because I knew I'd have to come back for a leak repair within a month. Most fridges and window air cons last for decades because factory welded and purged, pressure tested and evacuated. But many split and minisplit a/cs die from compressor failure very early only because of leaky field connections and poor short evac sucking in air and never held a vacuum. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Jul 31, 2018 |
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Jul 31, 2018 18:03
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Could do that, I suppose, but the drier on my compressor is not the best.
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Jul 31, 2018 18:41
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A wild belt has appeared: edit: when did v-belts get to be $23? Serpentine, sure, but a plain old v-belt? It has taken up residence:  The reading when I hooked the gauges back up, sort of:  I say sort of because it started going down - because I'm an idiot and opened the charging valves while it was connected to an empty R152 can.  It was actually right where it was in the previous gauge pic initially.I pulled the vacuum back down before I charged, but I further forgot to purge the charge line before opening the charge valves so there's a little air in there.At first the compressor didn't run at idle, so I jumped it, but I discovered later that there is a low-RPM limit, and I needed to bump up the idle. Actually pretty smart on Toyota's part, since it really wanted to kill it at the low idle I had. Idles at about 900 RPM unloaded, now, and about 750 with the compressor engaged. Clutch worked as expected, no noises from it or the compressor. Turns out I need a new seal on the charging hose, so I lost a bit of refrigerant. Fortunately, I had two 10 oz. cans, and only needed 12.5-15 oz. I did have to guesstimate, since I don't have a small scale. Should probably get one of those and rig up a fixture to hold the cans. Anyway, the piece of resistance:  Sorry for potato phone - this was at night and on the orad (pulled over on the shoulder) after a run down the highway, since running it in the driveway got the condenser hot as a pistol. That's 50 degF, and it was 87 degF outside at the time. I'm reasonably happy. I drove it into work this morning, and it still belw 50 degF, while it was 77 degF outside, so I'm guessing that the set point of the controller. I think I saw something about adjusting a variable resistor in the service manual, so I'll see if I can't get that down a hair, but it it will blow 50 when it climbs back to 100 next week, I will be satisfied. It'll take a bit to cool in direct sun, but it'll be better than outside. It think maybe an electric fan might be a good idea for stop and go traffic, or maybe just a fan shroud if I can find one. The OEM mechanical clutch fan without a shroud doesn't move enough air for the AC at idle. Probably go electric since stuff like the shroud may be unobtainium.
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Aug 2, 2018 15:51
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While I was vacuuming and charging, I cleaned up one of the spare wheels to throw in the trunk. For some reason, I have one optional Carroll Shelby wheel. It's as greasy as the rest were from the axle seal leak, and coated in brake dust to boot:   Clean(ish) now:   Center cap turned out to have most of the retainer broken, so I popped it off rather than lose it, and I was going to bolt it down in the trunk anyway, so needed the center hole unobstructed. Turns out I can fasten this particular wheel down in the spare tire well. The offset is such that the bolt isn't long enough with it face up, and doesn't seat all the way down on the post face down, so I will look at my steel wheels and clean up the one with the best tire, I guess. Threw in the small tool box, tools, jack, and lug wrench so I can drive around without as much worry. Also replaced the pedal pads, since I had them. Old and busted:  New hotness:  Need to reconstruct the driver's door panel and get them both back on, clean the headliner and reinstall that, reseal the driver's rear quarter window, and generally clean the interior. And buy some steel and build a framework and bash bar for the fiberglass bumper. And repaint. Replace the rivets on the spoiler with threaded inserts and screws. Remove the overfenders and fill holes. Repair damage hiding under the left overfender...
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Aug 2, 2018 16:13
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So are you not getting rid of this now? I know there was some talk of a local being interested.
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Aug 2, 2018 16:19
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Would probably still sell for right price. The AC thing was in the works already, and a value add, basically. I find it comforting to have a third vehicle available. What I really should do is take the MSF and start riding my GS450L a bit. I really can't help working on it. It's a disease. Eventually I'll burn out or sell it. Possibly burn out AND sell it. Haven't heard from the local guy for a bit. Guess I could ping him and see if there is still interest at like $3 or thereabouts. I feel like that's too much in my head, but given what the very few I've seen on Craigslist etc. go for, some of them worse shitboxes then mine, it's probably fair. Also, I kind of forgot you were interested.
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Aug 2, 2018 22:05
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Worked on both basket cases a bit this past weekend. Tightened the AC belt on the Corolla. It stretched after the first day of use. AC still working. It blew 50 degF on a 98 degF day, so yeah, that does appear to be its set point. I adjusted the pot on the controller what should be "down", but since that only affects the compressor cycling temp, and I think that the compressor is running full time, it made no change. Controller:  Knob on the top is the adjustment for the RPM switch for the AC compressor. It's supposed to kick off if the idle is too low, so the compressor won't kill the car. Mine has an aftermarket carb on it, so the factory idle up solenoid currently doesn not work. It's a vacuum valve, so there may be a way to plumb it in, though. The pot for adjusting the temperature comparator is inside, but the board is super easy to remove:  I moved on to fixing the sticking secondary throttle plate. It's been requiring extra effort to get the throttle past a certain point, which I determined to be the secondaries not wanting to open. I figured that the throttle plate was closing a bit too far and wedging against the bore. While looking for the idle stop, I noted that there was also a close stop for the secondary, accessible from the bottom of the carb, so I pulled the carb to get to it. I'd like to thank Weber for putting the mounting bolts in such a way as to cause maximum frustration removing them.  That's the secondary close stop there to the right of the mounting bolt and now that I think of it, I might could have gotten my right-angle ratcheting screwdriver bit handle in there. Nuts.  You can get a 12mm 1/4" drive socket on them, if you have one, but there's not really enough room for the then-necessary universal joint. And of course there's all sorts of other engine room stuff in the way of swinging a wrench, even a stubby. And they put this wholly-unnecessary flange on the damned carb preventing form-the-top access:  gently caress you, Weber. Couldn't have figured out any other way to mount a filter, eh? This one bolt with all the throttle bits in the way was especially annoying:  Truly, a masterpiece of gently caress-you engineering. OK, I've seen worse, but it was just so close to being actually decent. While working on the AC, I previously noted that the alternator had an exposed charging stud connection that I didn't care for:  So I bought these:  One issue:  What the gently caress, Toyota? The weirdest ring terminal ever. Why would you even do that? Eh, I've got diagonal cutters, crimpers, and ring terminals.  Had to open her up a little since it's a 10-12 terminal, and there was a 10 ga plus a 18 or 16 ga. wire mashed in there. Finished product makes me feel a touch safer: 
Darchangel fucked around with this message at 15:37 on Oct 30, 2018 |
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Aug 6, 2018 21:37
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Moved on the RX-7 on Sunday, after taking my daughter to go see Incredibles 2 (enjoyed it, especially on matinee.) I want to move the power steering from the donor to the '79, not least of which because I'm tired of "armstrong", but also because I believe that the newer box is in better shape, and it's getting almost impossible to find parts or rebuilds for these things. I also need the jointed steering shaft if I convert to rack and pinion. I'm not sure why Mazda put a jointed shaft on the power steering GSL-SEs, but they did, despite everything being in the same spot and orientation as the manual-steering cars. It may be that the power steering box was not available with the straight one-piece shaft. The '79 column and tube just goes straight through the firewall and is gasketed to the box  That grommet down at the box end seals up the firewall hole. The hole for the column and shaft is the circular one covered by the orange plastic bit from the inside at the right of the picture:  By comparison, the '84 has a larger round hole:   which has a mounting plate with a recess, and bell on the end of the column tube:    That recess and bell contain the flex joint. To get the stupid thing out, I had to loosen the clamps on the bell end of the column tube, remove the bolts for the box, which then let me slide the whole assembly forward far enough to expose the flex joint so I could unbolt one of the shaft retaining bolts and remove said bolt, which then allowed the column to come out via the interior side. Helpfully, there was a spring to push out the column end of the shaft from the flex joint. An odd setup. The whole assembly, plus the cooler loop:  I ran out of day and fucks, so the mounting plate is still in the car. The mounting nuts are removed, but it's still solidly in place. I suspect that whatever gasketing it has is well-stuck.  So I will need to enlarge the hole in my '79, and weld in some 6mm studs. OK. Maybe next weekend. edit: that steering box is going to need a bit of cleaning up, too. At least it doesn't appear ot have been leaking...
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Aug 6, 2018 21:58
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Darchangel posted:
If your ratchet head won't fit, it looks like there might be clearance for an offset screwdriver 
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Aug 7, 2018 04:51
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Raluek posted:If your ratchet head won't fit, it looks like there might be clearance for an offset screwdriver Less terrible version of that tool https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XYOUS6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Aug 7, 2018 17:00
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Larrymer posted:Less terrible version of that tool I assume darchangel has something like that anyway as they mentioned a ratcheting screwdriver bit, but for Raluaks benefit, these are way better than offset screwdrivers. My first set was similar to the one Larrymer linked, but later on I bought a set with more bits and more teeth on the ratchet. For aussies these are sold at supercheap auto under their own name for about $15, http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Bit-Ratchet-Set-19-Piece/222418 but for americans they are on amazon under the name of riddlestar for about $15 .  There's more regular ratchet looking/higher quality looking ones but they get a little bulky. That supercheap one with coloured bits is just about right and I used it for many years in HVAC (arseholes mounting air cons way to close to the walls so I can't even get the lid off for repair) and also my cars many times. The one larrymer linked was something I bought off ebay a long time ago but it was lovely ratchet imo Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:31 on Aug 7, 2018 |
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Aug 7, 2018 17:22
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Larrymer posted:Less terrible version of that tool That's basically the one I have, though I do have the offset drivers that Raluek mentions as well. My late father in law gave me the ratcheting driver for Christmas, one year, along with some nifty spring-action punches that I've used repeatedly. No idea why I didn't try the drivers first. I guess I thought that the carb would come off easier, and I kind of wanted to look at how the throttle plate was interacting with the bore to confirm my theory. As it was, it wasn't *that* difficult, just a bit frustrating, and I did end up replacing the bolts. 3 were 13mm, 1 was 12mm, and all four were different. I dug 4 more-or-less matching 12mm-headed bolts out of my stash, with the nice integrated flat- and lock-washers. Those are the ones you see in the pics. Fo3 posted:I assume darchangel has something like that anyway as they mentions ratchet bit driver, but for Raluaks benefit, these are way better than offset screwdrivers. My first set was similar to the one Larrymer linked, but later on I bought a set with more bits and more teeth on the ratchet. For aussies these are sold at supercheap auto under their own name for about $15, http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Bit-Ratchet-Set-19-Piece/222418 but for americans they are on amazon under the name of riddlestar for about $15 . That's a rather nice one, with a decent selection of bits. edit: the Riddle Star version is even in the related products fro the one Larrymer linked. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:33 on Aug 7, 2018 |
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Aug 7, 2018 17:31
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Oh, these are rather nice: https://smile.amazon.com/Neiko-Screwdriver-Portable-Keychain-Construction/dp/B078MT1XQJ/ 
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Aug 7, 2018 17:36
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I just happened to buy a new of the same or similar Weber for my car and I found this in the instructions in case you didn't have them for yours. Just something to look out for when messing with the plate adjustments.
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Aug 8, 2018 22:45
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Thanks! Shouldn’t be an issue since this is on the secondary bore (progressive opening), which doesn’t have an idle circuit. Reminds me that I should look up documentation for that carb, though. I need to lean out the primary, I think. It’s a bit rich. May just be idle mixture, though. Really should get a wide-band some day.
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Aug 8, 2018 22:54
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Here are the other 2 pages with helpful info. Mines a 38/38 and it's not progressive so I'm not sure how different yours is but the idle/low speed circuit info is interesting, different than other carbs I've worked on. Maybe it could help you too.  Full size link of the second page https://i.imgur.com/ws7HS1E.jpg
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Aug 8, 2018 23:25
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Larrymer posted:Less terrible version of that tool I know about these, but it was not clear from the picture that there was clearance for the ratcheting head. Like how you can only use your ratcheting box wrenches maybe1/3 of the time because there's always something nearby that fouls them, but not a normal box wrench. Darchangel posted:Oh, these are rather nice: These look pretty great, though. I've seen something similar with Snap-On branding, but didn't know there was a knockoff affordable by mere mortals. Maybe I should get a set
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Aug 9, 2018 04:55
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shy boy from chess club posted:Here are the other 2 pages with helpful info. Mines a 38/38 and it's not progressive so I'm not sure how different yours is but the idle/low speed circuit info is interesting, different than other carbs I've worked on. Maybe it could help you too. Thanks. Yeah, mine is a bit different. It's like half a mechanical-secondary 4-barrel. I'll have to figure out exactly what model it is and look up the manual. Pretty sure it's a 32/36, but I'll have to check for sure. I found a page that should help: https://motofaction.org/mechanical-...el-differences/ edit: yeah, it's a 32/36 of some sort, at least according to what I was told by the PO. I went back and checked, and I had put that on the first page of the thread! Raluek posted:I know about these, but it was not clear from the picture that there was clearance for the ratcheting head. Like how you can only use your ratcheting box wrenches maybe1/3 of the time because there's always something nearby that fouls them, but not a normal box wrench. I'm not sure if it would have fit, either, but I didn't try, which was my point, or part of it. quote:These look pretty great, though. I've seen something similar with Snap-On branding, but didn't know there was a knockoff affordable by mere mortals. Maybe I should get a set I'm thinking I will myself. Didn't do anything with the AE86 this past weekend, but I did move a tiny bit forward on the RX-7. It rained most of the weekend, and I attended a funeral (brother-in-law's wife's father - I only met him like twice, but family, you know?) out of town, and was lazy, so Sunday evening was my only window. Last time, I had gotten the steering column and box out of the donor. I still needed to get the firewall mount out. The bit inside the whole in this picture: I had the nuts removed from the studs that you can see welded to the sheet metal, but the mount was being stubborn. Turns out it has a rubber gasket, and the gasket was just pretty stuck on there after 34 years. A little working at it with a gasket scraper got it off, finally.   Then I needed to measure the hole in the donor, since it's a bit larger than the one in the '79.   ...and then I remembered I had an actual tool designed to measure things like that.  Both instruments agreed, and the measurement lined up with marks on the gasket  so full speed ahead. A little CAD work:  The bolt holes were 15mm away from the hole. The top pair were 90mm apart, and the bottom pair 70mm, with the bottom pair 90mm from the top pair, so I just laid out a 15mm (radius) larger circle then marked the respective distances starting at a largely arbitrary point. The holes for the center points lined up with the actual holes in the mount, so I guess I did it right.  Marked out the outside perimeter from the actual part, then cut it all out. The hole in the '79 is 62mm, and the hole in the '84 is 92mm, so I marked 15mm out in several location s to help center the template, and stuck it down.  It's actually level, aligned with the tab from the frame rail there at the bottom of the template. The picture is from an angle due to a wiring harness in the way. All marked up and holes center punched:  Was starting to lose daylight at that point, and was tired, so cutting will wait. I'm going to get an air nibbler from Harbor Freight to deal with this one. Been meaning to get one for a while, anyway. It would be neat if I could find some M6 carriage bolts to weld in, but if not I'll grind down the heads on some standard bolts to use as studs. Once that's done, I can finish sanding out that area, and move on to the epoxy primer. It's cooled down here in TX for now. Not sure if it'll stay. Thunderstorms the last few days have been keeping it in the low-to-mid 80s, but even before that it was "only" mid-to-high 90s. Beats 104+. Humidity is a bitch right now with the rain, though.
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Aug 13, 2018 18:40
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You are going to love having an air nibbler. They are awesome. Only warning is they make the most nightmare inducing hell chips. Step on them and they will work their way through the shoe and into your foot.
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Aug 13, 2018 23:03
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honda whisperer posted:You are going to love having an air nibbler. They are awesome. Only warning is they make the most nightmare inducing hell chips. Step on them and they will work their way through the shoe and into your foot. Oh, I know. We used one at the stereo shop I worked at years ago. Billions of little metal crescent moons... all caught in the car’s carpet the first time we used it. That was beyond annoying. Learned to put down a drop cloth on that one. I’ve got a manual nibbler for smaller jobs, but I think this one calls for POWER.
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Aug 13, 2018 23:12
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Drove the AE86 to work yesterday, and I'm happy to say that the AC continues to function. 50 degF with it 97 out. Managed 45 degF in the morning when it was 76 (it was raining - mainly using the AC for humidity mitigation at that point.)
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Aug 17, 2018 00:02
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Found a little time on Sunday again to move forward a bit on the RX-7. It was beastly out, not because it was super hot (low 90s) but because it decided to rain briefly, then the sun popped back out. Humidity out the wazoo. By the time I called it quits I was literally soaking wet. I didn't help that I mowed the lawn just before, and after it rained, before working on the car. First, I measured the studs for the lower end of the steering column on the donor:  15mm, though really anything longer than about 10mm should be fine. Rough cut on the hole with the nibbler:  Opened up and cleaned up with a rotary (heh) file and stone:  Holes drilled to 6mm (15/64", actually.) Lines up nicely with the gasket:  The reason there is no bolt in the upper right is that part of the brace for the brake master cylinder extends over that area:    I'll need to trim off that bit. It should not affect function. The '84 bracket has that corner cut away: The annoying bit is that to cut that properly, I'll need to remove it from the car, and that's the bit that supports the upper end of the steering column, and the brake and clutch pedals. Fortunately, it doesn't look like there are that many bolts holding it in there. Now off to order the appropriate length weld studs, and hopefully do those and trim the bracket next weekend. edit: looks like that bracket could use some love with the media blaster, as well. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Aug 20, 2018 |
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Aug 20, 2018 17:50
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Jesus Christ. I'm simul-posting this over at RX7Club, and their stupid software has a 12-picture-per-post limitation that is so bloody annoying I can't even.
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Aug 20, 2018 17:56
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You know their backend is bad when ours is comparatively better.
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Aug 20, 2018 21:48
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They got bought by some marketing company or another several years ago. Same company bought up a bunch of automotive forums, presumably as ad delivery systems.
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Aug 20, 2018 22:56
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Didn't get to work on the Corolla or the RX-7 last weekend. Honey-do's for my mother-in-law on Saturday, and Sunday, I ripped out the lovely RCA cables in my Crown Vic and put in decent ones. The hum it had had gotten quite a bit worse in the time my wife has been driving it, I noticed when we took it to the mother-in-law's. I've posted something about the existing cables before, but the short of it is that they are coaxial, the shield braid is super thin, fine, and sparse, making it very difficult to solder to the connector reliably, and the connectors aren't designed for this size of coax size (mostly due to the center insulator) anyway. I've had the cables for over 20 years, originally bought for the system in my '81 Buick Regal from MCM, before places line Monoprice and, in fact, the Internet, existed. I bought some twisted-pair interconnects from Sonic Electronix, a 4-channel set from their NVX house brand, and a single pair for the sub made by Rockford Fosgate, which oddly cost less than the single pair from NVX. And the 4-channel + 2-channel was less than a 6-channel set, at least in the length I needed. Cable pricing is so random. I've had the cables literally for months, but put off installing them because cabling in a car is such an rear end whipping. I have a few pictures, but Imgur is being poo poo this morning. The front page works, but I can't get into *my* pictures either on the web or in the app, because apparently they though 6AM PST on a Tuesday would be an excellent time to do maintenance. Anyway, picture old-school massive coax cables with metal connectors versus sleek twisted-pair with molded ends. Edit - Imgur is working now:  New cables:  Old cables in native habitat:  The black cables with the white dotted lines   Had a little excess tucked under the seat. Newer cables are several feet shorter. New cables went onto the same wiring channel, but fit much better, thanks to smaller size. I kind of slapped them in there in the initial install. Decent, but I could have done better, so I took a few extra steps this time, like taking out the glove box and the passenger airbag. That way I could route them the same way as factory wiring behind the dash. Worked great - hum is gone completely, which makes me happy. I also bought the weld studs necessary for the lower steering column mount on the RX-7, but after crawling around inside the Crown Vic for a few hours in '98 degF Texas heat, I *really* didn't want to dig into the RX-7, where I would also have to wedge myself under the dash. My hands were actually starting to shake, and literally any small issue or delay was starting to make me irrationally angry, so I decided it was time to go in and take a shower. then I made pizza (not quite from scratch - used a Jiffy crust mix) and enjoyed that. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Aug 29, 2018 |
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Aug 28, 2018 16:22
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Drove the Crown Vic to Austin for business (annual departmental "camp".) Got 20.7 MPG out of it, almost entirely highway. 60-80 MPH on cruise control whenever possible. *Almost* made it there and back on one tank. Had to stop in Alvarado (about 40 miles from home) to fill up. 366 miles on 17.7 gallons. Probably could have made it (20 gallon tank) but I really had no desire to chance being stuck on the side of the highway. Did a minor thing on the AE86. I replaced this filter,  which was letting oil piss out thanks to excessive blowby, and the vac port on the carb being ported, so PCV not operating unless the throttle is open.  Figure 1: A Mess The air filter that came with the replacement carb is fitted with a port specifically for this. No idea why the PO didn't just run a 1/2" PCV hose to it. That's all I did, and cleaned up the cam cover while I was at it.  This car has an amazing capacity to make a mess. Still haven't fixed the AC. In RX-7 news, I continued with the steering column mounting project. We left off with a gaping hole in need of studs (awwwww, yeah.) I discovered that there was such a thing as "weld studs." They have little raised points to facilitate them being spot-welded on by a special stud welder. I f I had one of those, I would have used it. Since I don't, I ground off the points.  And then hit them with weld-through primer to prepare for traditional welding:  As you may recall, the pedla hanger bracket in my '79 fouled with one of the mounting holes for the column lower mount. So this thing has to come out:  Took a bit to figure out where it was hanging up once I got the three big nuts off. It was this little bracket for some relays still tying it in to the dash structure. The rusty bit attached via a stud and M5 nut.  Pedal hanger and hanging pedals (heh) out:    This is where the column bracket is supposed to go:   Just need that curve cut into an inside corner:   Had a handy drill spot from drilling the hole in the actual firewall to line everything up. Pedal hanger/column area without the pedal bracket:  First: remove pedals and any other hangers-on:   Reference photo for order of parts on the long bolt that the pedals hand from. How my custom pedal covers are mounted. Covers and brackets were cut when I worked at a waterjet cutting service.   Bit of corrosion from moisture in the car over the last 10 years. Wish I still had access to a waterjet. Pedal hanger cut:  And then smoothed with a flap wheel.    I'm not a fan of sharp edges in tight areas, so that was a must. Test fit of the bracket (again) with the studs just taped in place:   Looks like it lines up OK. Test fit of the pedal hanger with the column bracket, and a trim of the firewall mat:    Firewall prep for welding:   Weld-through primer. Studs welded:   Looks like decent penetration. And welds cleaned up:  I forgot to take pictures after I primed inside and out, but I did actually do that. Sandblasted the pedal hanger and pedal arms to get rid of some rust that was scattered about on them:     I didn't completely blast the entire pedla hanger, since most of the original paint was fine. I just scuffed it up with sandpaper, and then primed with etching primer, and painted with appliance epoxy enamel gloss black:  I'll let those harden for about a week before I touch them. The epoxy gloss black is super shiny, and stays that way, because epoxy. I have a tendency to use it in under-chassis stuff because it's tough and easy to clean because it's glossy. Here, I just had it on hand, and was almost out of satin black. Dookie. I just remembered that I need to blast and pain the return springs for the pedals. They were rusty. Guess I will need to run a couple screws into a board to stretch the springs a little so I can get in between the coils.
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Sep 10, 2018 17:17
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Still debating taking the dash out, but that shouldn't affect moving forward with the engine room paint, other than getting the wiring harness out of the way. Now that the column mount is done, I can sand the driver's side of the bay. Maybe next weekend, though the forecast is thunderstorms. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 17:22
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Wow, lots of work being done! Just wanted to comment on this fantastic thread, been enjoying it immensely. Don't have much else to say other than 'great work!'
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Sep 10, 2018 21:17
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jink posted:Wow, lots of work being done! Thanks, and thanks for checking in. A number of folks viewing without commenting, if the view counts are any indication, which is fine, but it gets lonely in here. edit: Just wanted to note that, while work is being done, it doesn't *feel* like I'm progressing, because what I want to do is paint the engine bay, and 98% of this stuff is work you have to do leading up to painting the engine bay, not actually *painting*, ergo, not doing the thing I want to do. Purely psychological, of course. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 22:22
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I do the same thing when I'm working towards one goal. Right now I'm just replacing the linkage for the shifter in my Scirocco and worked on it all day just to have half the parts off, cleaned and painted. Still have a ways to go. Worth it for how it feels good when your done and everything looks and works awesome. Nice work. Love to see an Rx7 being saved. The only time I cried over a car was when I wrecked my 84.
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Sep 11, 2018 01:33
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!!!!! Who makes the airfilter thats on top of that carb? I spent an hour looking for that fucker for a customer and was only spared because he broke his brake fluid reservoir.
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Sep 11, 2018 08:34
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Elmnt80 posted:!!!!! Looks like a redline brand type filter (or knock off version). Redline are the disty for weber but you probably know that). The two main different aftermarket filter styles for rectangular/oval shape are redline (use clips like pictured), or K&N (use screws or nuts to hold the assembly together). There's a couple of rectangular K&Ns but they are nearly always oval, so mostly if it's rectangular it's redline or a redline knock off - unless it uses screws/nuts instead of clips which makes it a rare K&N/ knockoff. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 13:54 on Sep 11, 2018 |
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Sep 11, 2018 13:42
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Redline sounds right, but I didn't put the carb and air cleaner on the car, the previous owner did. I've seen a number of 4ACs with the same setup, so I assume that it's a kit. http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/toyota/ show air cleaner assembly part number 99217.332S for almost all kits, including the 4AC, and that shows up all over the net. Given the dimensions at http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/air_filter_applications_by_carbu.htm This K&N filter should fit the base: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn-e-3952 $20 for the whole assembly: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?part=99217.332S $13 for the Weber filter: http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=99400.292 Various Jeep shops have the kit and filter, too. I guess it's a common to use a Weber on Jeep 4-bangers. Makes sense.
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Sep 11, 2018 20:37
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Had a few hours free this weekend. Just as a sanity check, I compared the two steering columns, to make sure it would come out in the right place and the combination switch and ignition cylinder would fit.   If it's not obvious, to top one is the '84 power steering column. Looks good. Only issue I see is that the locating pin for the combination switch is on the top of the column on the '84 (see the little hole in the tube about an 1-1/2 from the top) and on the right side on the '79 (actually '81, since I converted it to the FB combination switch many years ago. The '79 switch arrangement made no sense to me at all. For those that don't know, on '79s and '80s, the wipers are a twist knob on the turn signal stalk, and the lights are the left stalk. Except for high beam switching, which is still on the turn signal stalk. See what I mean?) All I need to do is drill a little hole in the right side of the '84 tube, and all will be well. Actual test fit:   Oof, Potato phone. Looks good. Mind at ease, I set out to remove the dash. I decided to do that because a) the dash pad is in dire need of repair, and b) I really wanted the wiring harness out of the engine compartment, and to do that I needed to get it loose from all the cable ties and such, up inside the dash. Instrument cluster out.  Oh, hello, *that's* where I put the alarm brain. Lower bits removed.  That poo poo was crispy as F. Going to be doing quite a bit of repair when that stuff goes back in. The surface rust on the sheetmetal is annoying me. Mirror crumbled when I pulled down the window shade a while back.   Going to have to look for a replacement. WHAT HAVE I DONE?!     Dash pad removed:  Air ducts are a bit crispy, too:  That's supposed to be riveted to a metal bit that screws to the dash pad:  Then this bit broke of when I grabbed the piece to move it (sigh):  Dash wiring harness:  Dash wiring removed:  Back in the car, I need slack to pull the harness in. Mostly a bunch of thos bent metal tabs, and a few cable ties. I could unplug these relays, but there's only one nut holding that bracket up there:  This bracket was also connected to the pedla hanger earlier, keeping it from coming out, the little poo poo. Had to remove the driver's kick panel, which meant the dead pedal had to come out. Both bolts sheared:    Dang it. ALL CLEAN AND BARE:  But:   The mess just moved. So now I can get on with sanding that side of the engine bay, tape up all of those holes, and paint away. I do still need to patch that one bit of rust at the top of the cowl under the driver's fender, but that should just be a little epoxy, and possibly some seam sealer. Now I'm debating how to handle the wiring harness. I could strip out the emissions stuff I don't need, along with some additional wiring related to the choke, and external voltage regulator, and such, and add a few circuits to make wiring in a modern stereo and such easier (I had to pull power for the radio memory from the cigarette lighter, for example, and tie into the radio switched lead for the added power mirrors and gauges, not to mention grounds for all of that.) As an alternative, I could buy an aftermarket "hot rod" style wiring harness and rewire the whole car. Brand new wiring and connectors, and a modern ATC fuse box is tempting, not to mention the possibility of a bulkhead connector rather than the entire harness going through the firewall in one piece. Not sure which way I'll go on that. The '84 may get it's harness pulled and scavenged, or some other mid-'80s or '90s Mazda if I find something in the wrecking yard (to try and keep similar colors to factory, and OEM connectors.) I'll settle this after I get the engine bay painted, but a little thinking about it beforehand is probably a good idea. Going to spend some quality time with wiring diagrams to confirm what is necessary for my needs. I will also likely eliminate most of the tape wrap and use split looming instead. I like the easier maintenance and troubleshooting, not to mention changeability with split loom. I discovered that there is such a thing as a split loom version of the mesh looming, so I'm going to look into that as well. Progress!
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Sep 17, 2018 16:17
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Darchangel posted:Progress! Hoo boy, what a mess. gently caress working with old dried out plastics. 
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Sep 17, 2018 17:12
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The spaghetti monster of the flying plastic kind. Also not a fan of that stuff. As far as wiring, you're going to have to decide on if you're stripping out for a aftermarket carb or aftermarket fuel system then plan now to strip nearly all of it with fresh stuff, or if going OEM then keep all of it(as in that case it's easier to do that than it is working out what everything does!) E: Don't remove the tape! What a loving mess that leaves... I remember many rotted mirrors back in the 90s as well. Plastics weren't so good in UV back then Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Sep 17, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 17:17
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Larrymer posted:Hoo boy, what a mess. gently caress working with old dried out plastics. God drat, tell me about it! Number one SMDH working on older cars, particularly older Japanese cars. Fo3 posted:The spaghetti monster of the flying plastic kind. Also not a fan of that stuff. As far as wiring, you're going to have to decide on if you're stripping out for a aftermarket carb or aftermarket fuel system then plan now to strip nearly all of it with fresh stuff, or if going OEM then keep all of it(as in that case it's easier to do that than it is working out what everything does!) Right now, sort of a hybrid. I’ve mentioned it before, but it’s a ‘79 getting converted to a GSL-SE, 13B EFI. I’m going factory EFI to start, then will likely switch over to aftermarket, however, emissions will be deleted. The ‘84 steering column is so I can use the ‘84’s power steering box, which is also less worn out. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Oct 30, 2018 |
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Sep 17, 2018 17:27
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I may just change my mind and go straight to a MegaSquirt, however, I still intend to use the OEM wiring harness and sensors, so that step is still necessary. Here lately I’ve been wondering if one of the throttle-body systems with the whole thing contained in the throttle body would be viable, but I’d prefer to stick with port injection, since the S4/S5 engines I have are equipped for it already. The TBI systems would be a fair alternative for a 12a - you’d just need a Holley-style carb manifold and an EFI fuel pump. That reminds me, I need to mod the fuel tank for a slightly larger fuel pickup and return, I think, and possibly an internal baffle/swirl pot.
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Sep 17, 2018 17:50
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with regards to your custom pedals, be mindful of the shank of the screws sticking out the back of them. may not be an issue for you, but the PO of my runabout Toyota Yaris fitted after market pedal covers, and the screws that held the cover to the OEM clutch pedal managed to puncture through the floor carpet and then get stuck in said puncture at times, causing the clutch to be half depressed at times, resulting in the clutch wearing out prematurely. it may not be an issue in your car since they've been in there for 10yrs already, but definitely something to watch out for.
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Sep 18, 2018 03:41
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