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Bucnasti posted:That tank matches the rest of his army and looks badass. It’s the perfect stealth vehicle, you can’t see it because it’s black, and you can’t hear it because it floats
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 06:45 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 09:45 |
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Bucnasti posted:That tank matches the rest of his army and looks badass. Primaris can't use drop pods, but an Atreus dropped on an enemy commander's head from orbit works about as well.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 07:49 |
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I'm reminded of WarhammerTV's how to paint a Corvus Blackstar video, where Duncan shaded abaddon black with rhinox hide to give it some definition, and that seems like a pretty good way to shade black. ...but maybe you don't really want to go back over an already finished, perfectly good looking gigantic tank for a round of not-really-needed shading?
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 12:00 |
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Fresh off the press, Black Templar Kill Team, 5 of 15.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 12:16 |
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Big Willy Style posted:I think a few extra white panels would help break it up. The metallics look really flat it some pictures as well, like the ammo thingo on the turret and jets on the back look fairly flat. You could also very subtly glaze some panels with agrax earth shade to add some variation to the black without compromising it looking out of place with everything else. But looking at it next to the repulsor it really looks like an unreadable blob. I thought about doing some more white panels, but in the end I decided against it. I liked the idea that it would have a more monolithic presence on the table, and, as stupid as it seems, I felt it would read more "stealthy". Booley also suggested I do something more with the engines and I'm thinking I will. They are pretty flat as is. I'm not going to do the heat warping thing, but I think I can work with some more nuln oil and stormhost to make them pop a little more. I used a LOT more varnish on this one as handling it while painting was a pain in the rear end. I had to varnish not only between highlights, but between areas so I wasn't rubbing paint off while I was painting. The end effect is that it is shinier than the Repulsor. The Repulsor is actually shinier than my infantry because I used the Army Painter varnish which I do not like and have since gotten rid of. I used Testor's Dullcote for the Astraeus. If y'all know of a silkier dullcote, lemme hear it and I'll check it out. Sorry if I was getting too testy in the model thread, y'all. I just spent a month assembling and painting that thing.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 16:04 |
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This may be a question that is kind out of there but what kind of wire should I get to hold up tiny, tiny airplanes. I have 1/2400 aircraft from GHQ I wanna put as a flying base but I need to put them up to make them look as if they are flying. How does one do this?
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 19:15 |
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You can avoid shading black (or any color, really) by make it visually interesting through extreme edge highlights, weathering, modulation, or even lovingly applied mud or dust effects. Color / highlight / shade is good practice, but goddamn it's not scripture. If your model looks good, it looks good. And that tank looks amazing.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 19:26 |
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moths posted:You can avoid shading black (or any color, really) by make it visually interesting through extreme edge highlights, weathering, modulation, or even lovingly applied mud or dust effects. This. I recently painted a model with barely any traditional layering or highlights. It's not out of laziness or lack of skill or anything, it's a specific style choice. It's a cool tank, and also not how I would personally paint mine, even though I really like it.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 20:18 |
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General Olloth posted:This. I recently painted a model with barely any traditional layering or highlights. It's not out of laziness or lack of skill or anything, it's a specific style choice. Is there a company that makes 28mm battletech weapons? Because you could make some drat close looking medium mechs out of Armigers by replacing those arms and sticking some kind of cockpit on the top.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 20:47 |
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That's a dope-rear end baby knight! Seeing the back of the all black astraeus really reminds me of the BC-304 from Stargate. E: That's a real pretty brick of resin you've got there Dan. Great job! Groetgaffel fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Aug 5, 2018 |
# ? Aug 5, 2018 20:51 |
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Dumb question: What causes my base coat to come out so... "brittle", for lack of a better term? I hear it's bade to spray in high-humidity; is that what this is? 66% Humidity here today. That was just short bursts from about a foot away with Army Painter primer.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 21:00 |
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thats from the primer drying before it hits the model
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 21:29 |
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Speaking of spraying, I finally primed the orcs and guardians. I've been thinking about buying some more spray-paint in the future (because I do have a bit fun doing it), but I'm wondering what I should use. The Army Painter looks like they've got a pretty wide range of spray paint+primers, and they look like they're a little cheaper than Citadel. I thought about getting a dark red for Blood Angels. At the same time, I also thought about doing Krylon, since it looks like they've got a good range of paint-&-primer colors, but I'm skeptical about how well those would work. They're a lot cheaper, but some of them have textures and I'm wondering if it would clog up details or something. Interestingly, Army Painter doesn't seem to have a gold spray-paint.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 23:07 |
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Max Wilco posted:Speaking of spraying, I finally primed the orcs and guardians. I would not recommend krylon paint + primer, it's thicker than I like for miniatures.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 23:15 |
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The Moon Monster posted:I would not recommend krylon paint + primer, it's thicker than I like for miniatures. I found that too. The Krylon Ultra-Flat primer was my go-to for spray cans, but the paint+primer I tried was a bit much.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 23:26 |
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Max Wilco posted:I've been thinking about buying some more spray-paint in the future (because I do have a bit fun doing it), but I'm wondering what I should use. The Army Painter looks like they've got a pretty wide range of spray paint+primers, and they look like they're a little cheaper than Citadel. I thought about getting a dark red for Blood Angels. I really like the Army Painter sprays
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 23:30 |
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Sab669 posted:Dumb question: What causes my base coat to come out so... "brittle", for lack of a better term? Speaking from direct experience and a tip I got from a very helpful FLGS owner: Bring the can in closer (I found somewhere in the 8"-10" range was perfect) and shorten your bursts. If that doesn't work your primer can is probably bad.
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# ? Aug 5, 2018 23:48 |
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This works exactly as good as anything else and it's like 5 bucks Just don't buy the glossy.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 00:03 |
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This is why I mostly prime with an airbrush now. It’s more of a pain to clean when I’m done, but there’s no hassles with temperature or humidity or the position of the stars. I’ll still can prime but mostly on terrain where some fuzz isn’t going to hurt it much and might even improve it a little. I had some forests get super fuzzy and the texture worked nicely on the wood when it was done.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 01:00 |
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Badablack posted:This is why I mostly prime with an airbrush now. This is the correct solution.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 01:02 |
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Can someone help me with shopping for varnish? I'm picking up some Testors Dullcote in spray form, and i want Glosscote as well but don't know if i can only get it in the brush-on lacquer form or if there's a spray version of Glosscote as well.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 05:40 |
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Oh god I'm learning to paint and I painted a skeleton and its so bad I didn't water down my wash enough I don't think and my dry brush probably wasn't too dry. The first time for everything is always the worst.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 05:50 |
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Badablack posted:This is why I mostly prime with an airbrush now. It’s more of a pain to clean when I’m done, but there’s no hassles with temperature or humidity or the position of the stars. I'd love to get an airbrush, but: 1) I rent an apartment and have nowhere good to use it 2) Frankly I don't trust myself to take care of it correctly. Despite my best attempts to keep brushes in good quality somehow I still gently caress them up too regularly. A buddy bought me some nice Vallejo brushes for Christmas and I barely use them because I just know I'm going to gently caress 'em up.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 11:48 |
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Sab669 posted:I'd love to get an airbrush, but: Get some masters brush soap and Windsor and Newton brush conditioner. The trick to keeping brushes in good shape is just washing them with the soap every (other) painting session and occasionally soaking them in the conditioner.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 15:39 |
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Airbrushes are actually fairly simple and easy to take care of, even the worst clogs can be solved by tossing it disassembled into a bowl of purple power. You can also pick up a spray booth to vent out a window.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 16:08 |
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Yeah, you can totally airbrush in an apartment. You need a flat surface and either professional or home-made jerry-rigged venting. Care and cleaning of an airbrush is simple, it's just a lot of elbow grease unless you buy an ultrasonic cleaner. Don't throw your brushes at the wall for funsies, don't leave paint in the nozzle/ferrule. Bam, good brush health for a long, long time.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 21:04 |
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Sab669 posted:Dumb question: What causes my base coat to come out so... "brittle", for lack of a better term? What you're seeing is paint partially dry before it impacts against the surface of the part.
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 21:52 |
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X-post from the Keep Painting thread:Groetgaffel posted:I finished my Harker!
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# ? Aug 6, 2018 23:31 |
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The Sex Cannon posted:Just kidding, here's the Astraeus: The black is pretty nice but those basecoat’n’wash metals really let down what is otherwise a centrepiece model in my opinion. Some weathering, especially on the engines, would go a long way.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 01:15 |
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Painting update: Here's how the orcs and Guardians have been coming along. The green ended up working pretty well for the one orc I've painted (not sure how it will fair after a wash). I figured I could paint one or two with Death Guard Green for variety.. I painted his shirt white, as I figured the Agrax Earthshade would give it a dirty t-shirt look. It's hard to tell from the photos, but you still see a little bit of the grey primer through the red brush strokes on the shield. I started by painting one of the Eldar green (cause I was motivated by That Gobbo's purple Death Guard, and I wanted to do something in purple-&-green). However, I don't have any purple paint, so I need to get some (I don't want to try mixing paint at this time). In addition, I want to grab some extra colors like bone, orange, and maybe another shade of a color I already have. The rest I decided to do the standard red-&-white. I still need to do the faces, the eyes, and the shuriken launcher (which I realize I need the bluish-grey color for as well). On a side note, I looking at the Army Painter color sprays on Amazon, and they seem to be around the same price as the Citadel spray (though that's accounting for tax). Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 06:17 on Aug 7, 2018 |
# ? Aug 7, 2018 06:15 |
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Buying spray paint online is always expensive. Try miniaturemarket or thewarstore. They should be around 12 dollars plus shipping (per order, not per can like Amazon prime). I can not recommend Duplicolor Sandable Primer enough. If you are doing White, Black, Red, or German Grey, they are perfect. I also experiment with auto/hardware store paints before dropping money on AP/Citadel spray cans. Disclaimer: at least a third of the enjoyment I get from any hobby is experimenting.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 12:53 |
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I made my first diorama
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 15:55 |
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I was recently in a KoW tournament where I placed like 10th out of 14 competitors, but I did win the friendliest list and best painted army so I decided to take some pictures of my Undead and share them here. The models are by GW, Mantic and Reaper.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 16:54 |
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I did a thing
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 17:22 |
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Primer chat: Get duplicolor sandable auto primer. You can buy it at Advance Auto Parts or O'Reily's Auto Parts. $5-6 a can and its the most forgiving thing I've ever worked with. I thought I over sprayed a model but when it dried it got super thin and smooth.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 17:31 |
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R0ckfish posted:I did a thing That's a nice robit. I love the base most of all though, I've always wanted to a kinda tropical/beach basing theme, just haven't found an army that fits it. You nailed it.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 17:46 |
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Does anybody have any joy with airbrushing Vallejo white or grey primer? I can’t seem to get it to spray smoothly, no matter how much I thin it or what pressure - it always spatters really horribly. Spraying water or standard paint seems fine, so I don’t think that’s the problem.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 21:33 |
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glitchkrieg posted:Does anybody have any joy with airbrushing Vallejo white or grey primer? I can’t seem to get it to spray smoothly, no matter how much I thin it or what pressure - it always spatters really horribly. Spraying water or standard paint seems fine, so I don’t think that’s the problem. I don't thin the white at all, just crank up the pressure and it goes on no problem for me. I haven't tried the grey.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 21:46 |
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Cross-postin' some genestealers
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 21:47 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 09:45 |
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glitchkrieg posted:Does anybody have any joy with airbrushing Vallejo white or grey primer? I can’t seem to get it to spray smoothly, no matter how much I thin it or what pressure - it always spatters really horribly. Spraying water or standard paint seems fine, so I don’t think that’s the problem. I switched to Stynylrez since, but I've gone through about half a bottle each of the white and grey Vallejo primers and never had that problem. It could be you got a bad batch. You could try adulterating it with some flow improver or some acrylic medium of your choice, just to change the mix. And don't forget to shake it like crazy.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 21:53 |