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Have it turn a tiny water wheel to power the lights on your front steps.
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Jul 31, 2018 15:19
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Drink it
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Jul 31, 2018 15:23
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Subjunctive posted:Have it turn a tiny water wheel to power the lights on your front steps. While I like this idea I suppose I left myself open for this and other more creative answers. I'm basically just wondering if I can just bury the end, bury it in stone, or if someone has a suggestion for how to make it look not so incomplete as it does now. But maybe I'll just drink from it.
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Jul 31, 2018 16:39
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You could just hide it behind some decorative rocks that the water can drain through, maybe?
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Jul 31, 2018 18:00
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Subjunctive posted:You could just hide it behind some decorative rocks that the water can drain through, maybe? They make decorative grates camouflaged as bricks and blocks. No idea what they’re called, but I know I saw one when I got sucked down a Youtube path once.
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Jul 31, 2018 23:01
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wesleywillis posted:Whats the goon-sensus on a good book about building decks? Beuller? Beuller? Beuller? Anyone got a suggestion? I can just look at amazon reviews or whatever, but I was hoping (lazy) someone could say " check this book out, its the poo poo".
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Aug 3, 2018 13:24
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What should I replace these front steps with? I plan on getting rid of the storm door and Florida windows soon, and I will most likely refinish the concrete floor of the porch as well. Stone veneer concrete? Wood/Trex? Brick veneer? I just want to get the best looking front entry without spending a ton of money or time. 
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Aug 3, 2018 16:32
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If it were me, I'd probably jackhammer that poo poo out, and just make new ones out of concrete. Measure them now and make something of the same dimensions.
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Aug 3, 2018 16:54
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If they're in good shape structurally, it'd be a lot less work to put a veneer on them. But yeah, if they're falling apart then just replace 'em with fresh concrete steps IMO.
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Aug 3, 2018 17:41
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wesleywillis posted:Beuller? Beuller? Beuller?
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Aug 3, 2018 20:13
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Get rid of the side planters and put in big slabs of marble like you have a nice row home in the city.
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Aug 3, 2018 21:56
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I just need some of these 20amp D type fuses: Nowhere near me has the stock listed on their inventory so I'm trying to get them off amazon.ca, but the only ones I can find are listed as "class G Type SC"... https://www.amazon.ca/Bussmann-BP-SC-20-Time-Delay-Melamine/dp/B000BQSC9E/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1533418471&sr=8-10&keywords=20+amp+fuse I can't find any documentation on what Type SC is, or what class G is, but it says time delay so I don't know how it differs from the ones I need. Am I ok to use these? They're backups for our AC.
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Aug 5, 2018 02:14
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Curiosity posted:I just need some of these 20amp D type fuses: SC is just the Bussmann model for their fuse in the UL Class G, which defines certain aspects of performance. I believe the Bussmann you should be looking at as a direct replacement is a CDN20, which is the correct Type D replacement with the characteristics of your original.
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Aug 5, 2018 03:20
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glynnenstein posted:SC is just the Bussmann model for their fuse in the UL Class G, which defines certain aspects of performance. I believe the Bussmann you should be looking at as a direct replacement is a CDN20, which is the correct Type D replacement with the characteristics of your original. Thank you! It's not the answer I was hoping for since I'm having a weirdly difficult time getting the right ones, but at least I won't order the wrong ones.
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Aug 5, 2018 03:41
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Curiosity posted:I can't find any documentation on what Type SC is, or what class G is, but it says time delay so I don't know how it differs from the ones I need. Am I ok to use these? They're backups for our AC. Did you fix what caused them to blow in the first place? (cold start capacitor for example.)
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Aug 5, 2018 04:19
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H110Hawk posted:Did you fix what caused them to blow in the first place? (cold start capacitor for example.) Possibly, having doubts though. They blew one time and I discovered the last people had put a 20D and 25P in. I'm guessing they didn't have another 20D and thought the extra 5 could handle the startup surge... It blew again after quite some time, which is disappointing. We had the AC off for 2 hours during a window installation and we aren't sure if it ran at all when it was turned back on, it took us hours to notice it wasn't running. The house probably got muggy and hot with a gaping hole in the wall but I know that shouldn't have caused it to blow the fuses. My father is a retired HVAC guy and will take a look eventually, but who knows when he'll be passing through town next. I was going to grab a few fuses and cross my fingers for another long stretch until he has a chance to visit, but if you have any advice on how to check something I'd be grateful! I'm good at following instructions but I've never touched a central air conditioner before.
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Aug 5, 2018 05:02
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Is it bad to drill into the narrow side of a stud? I feel like it probably would be since that’s a weird way to pierce the grain, but I don’t know. I’m trying to figure out how to mount my networking equipment so it’s not just sitting on boxes, and it seems like the best way is going to be mounting it on the wall, but since it’s an unfinished basement and the cables terminate by the stairs all I could attach to without rigging something up is the side of the stair supports.
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Aug 5, 2018 07:00
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is it bad to drill into the narrow side of a stud? I feel like it probably would be since that’s a weird way to pierce the grain, but I don’t know. I think the size of the hole is more important than the direction but someone may correct me. Are you drilling a hole for a cable or a screw or what?
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Aug 5, 2018 08:21
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is it bad to drill into the narrow side of a stud? I feel like it probably would be since that’s a weird way to pierce the grain, but I don’t know.
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Aug 5, 2018 11:51
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Thanks. Yeah, it's going to be one (tiny) modem, one router, two switches, and a power strip. The strip would probably be heaviest at about 2 pounds, the rest would be a pound or so each. Just a couple small wood screws each. I'd be putting them on different studs. I'll think about whether to do that or just pick up some scrap plywood off of Craigslist and put that across there. I've just currently got everything sitting on boxes.
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Aug 5, 2018 16:40
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Is it bad to drill into the narrow side of a stud? I feel like it probably would be since that’s a weird way to pierce the grain, but I don’t know. That's... how you're supposed to hang TV mounts. The big ones mount with lag bolts.
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Aug 5, 2018 22:33
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Curiosity posted:Possibly, having doubts though. They blew one time and I discovered the last people had put a 20D and 25P in. I'm guessing they didn't have another 20D and thought the extra 5 could handle the startup surge... The capacitors are a wear item and a pretty common part to "go." If your motor hums or has trouble getting going this is the likely cause. I do not know how to instruct you on how to safely replace one, as mistakes are pretty bad. Call your dad, he misses you. (Seriously he can walk you though it, it's not HARD, but if the capacitor has a charge (it does) then you're in for a kick in the nuts if you bridge the contacts via your body.) Make sure you know which direction they go on, there is an "in" and an "out" side as it were. Looks like they make dual start+run capacitors which should be harder to install wrong, hopefully yours uses one.
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Aug 6, 2018 00:42
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Since this is as close to a "chat thread" as there is in diy, anybody know why Three Phase asked to be banned? He alright?
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Aug 6, 2018 04:36
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Thanks. Yeah, it's going to be one (tiny) modem, one router, two switches, and a power strip. The strip would probably be heaviest at about 2 pounds, the rest would be a pound or so each. Just a couple small wood screws each. I'd be putting them on different studs. I'll think about whether to do that or just pick up some scrap plywood off of Craigslist and put that across there. I've just currently got everything sitting on boxes. If you're hanging a bunch of stuff mount it all to a board and mount that yes.
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Aug 6, 2018 06:27
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I have this smoke alarm that's randomly chirping and I can't seem to shut it up. I have a hardwired smoke alarm system in my house, about 7 or so alarms all connected. They all have battery backups as well. About a year ago I had one that started chirping randomly. The alarm was over 10 years old so I figured it was time to replace it. I replaced it with a photoelectric alarm and wired it back up. Everything good. A few weeks ago it starts chirping at me like it has a low battery. Seems that's odd, everything is wired up fine. Pull the alarm down, reconnect all the wires, everything looks good. Test the backup battery, voltage is fine but replace it anyways. Still chirping. I end up doing a whole house test on the all the alarms and suddenly the chirping goes away. Yesterday the chirping comes back again. It started chirping for an hour or two in the morning and it went away. This morning it starts chirping again. Anything else I can check? Has the smoke alarm gone bad? Not sure what else to check except buying another alarm.
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Aug 7, 2018 17:41
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I’ve had a similar situation twice and both times it’s been the same problem: Many modern fire alarms have a combined fire alarm / carbon monoxide detector. If it’s chirping for a while but then goes away, that could be the cause - you’re triggering the carbon monoxide sensor but then after a few minutes, there’s enough airflow that it cleans your house out so the sensor stops beeping.
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Aug 8, 2018 00:19
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It could also be that one of the other units s setting it off. You may have to replace the other nine, if they are all approaching the end of their useful life.
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Aug 8, 2018 02:07
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I live in a 1920s-1930s apartment in NYC. Today a bulb in a rarely-used enclosed ceiling fixture burned out, and I went to replace it and looked inside the fixture for the first time. I knew I had original cloth-insulated wiring. I did not know that on one of the wires leading to one bulb, about 3" of the cloth was completely gone. On a scale of 1-10, how freaked out should I be? Getting it (or anything else) fixed will require taking a few days of vacation time and pissing off my super, so if it's not that big a deal, I'd rather ignore it or fix it myself. I do have the (post-1930s) breaker box in my apartment. I have minimal electrical experience, just swapping out switches and fixtures.
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Aug 8, 2018 05:19
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i like nice words
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I have separate carbon monoxide detectors on each floor, it’s not that. I’ve replaced half of the detectors in the house already, maybe I should bite the bullet and just replace them all.
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Aug 8, 2018 07:31
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Anne Whateley posted:I live in a 1920s-1930s apartment in NYC. Today a bulb in a rarely-used enclosed ceiling fixture burned out, and I went to replace it and looked inside the fixture for the first time. Can you see where the cloth starts & is it intact beyond that point? If it's just a few inches where the cloth has disintegrated, I'd wrap some electrical tape over it starting at the remaining cloth and going all the way down the exposed wire to the end and call it good enough. Give it a few extra winds at the start and end, and stretch it as you wrap to make it tight. Your wiring has lasted for nearly a century without causing a fire, if your breaker box has some decent breakers and they haven't been tripping for no reason I wouldn't worry too much about hidden problems.
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Aug 8, 2018 18:07
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Is it the ground wire?
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Aug 8, 2018 18:19
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No, there are two lines, both with dingy white cloth, leading to each bulb socket. This is one of those wires. There is no extra wire visible but I didn't take the entire fixture off my ceiling. But afaik there were no grounds then?Nevets posted:Can you see where the cloth starts & is it intact beyond that point? If it's just a few inches where the cloth has disintegrated, I'd wrap some electrical tape over it starting at the remaining cloth and going all the way down the exposed wire to the end and call it good enough. Give it a few extra winds at the start and end, and stretch it as you wrap to make it tight.  . No breaker has ever tripped and nothing says stab-lok on it. I can see what appears to be intact cloth on both sides of the 3"ish clothless area, but after it goes back into the ceiling, I have no idea what the cloth status is. For all I know it could be 3" on 3" off throughout the building. Prewars!
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Aug 8, 2018 18:39
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Anne Whateley posted:No, there are two lines, both with dingy white cloth, leading to each bulb socket. This is one of those wires. There is no extra wire visible but I didn't take the entire fixture off my ceiling. But afaik there were no grounds then? Seconding just tape it. I suppose you could get fancy and heat shrink it, but that's a pain to do.
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Aug 8, 2018 21:13
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Whats the best place to post questions about landscape architecture? I saw a veggie gardening thread, but I wasn't sure if there was a better match. Thanks! ETA: I just found the "Plants in general" thread, my bad. Solkanar512 fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 21:42
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Can someone "check the work" here. He notched some studs (a forums favorite) and while most of them look like <50% I am slightly concerned with the corners. It's the plumber everyone in the area uses (including us previously), licensed/bonded/insured that sorta thing. Above the new pipe is a window.  Closeup of the corner nearest the new outlet.  (Trust me, this was the easy way. He drilled "down" then crawled under the floor to find it and there are concrete steps in the way.)
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Aug 9, 2018 21:52
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That's loving terrible.
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Aug 9, 2018 21:54
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What's the best sort of product/concrete mix to repair this old post hole in a concrete foot path? I think it had been repaired in the distant path but the 'new' concrete had broken away over time and a sycamore sapling had taken hold in the neighbour's side of the fence.
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Aug 9, 2018 22:01
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H110Hawk posted:Can someone "check the work" here. He notched some studs (a forums favorite) and while most of them look like <50% I am slightly concerned with the corners. It's the plumber everyone in the area uses (including us previously), licensed/bonded/insured that sorta thing. Above the new pipe is a window. haha holy gently caress balls, time to get him to use his insurance to pay someone else to fix his "work" edit: I don't know local code where you are, perhaps if none of those walls are load bearing that's acceptable? Which as a plumber he wouldn't know so that'd take a structural engineer to determine. But I can't imagine that's ok even if they aren't structural walls. tangy yet delightful fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 22:05
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H110Hawk posted:Can someone "check the work" here. He notched some studs (a forums favorite) and while most of them look like <50% I am slightly concerned with the corners. It's the plumber everyone in the area uses (including us previously), licensed/bonded/insured that sorta thing. Above the new pipe is a window. I've done better work than that on barns
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Aug 10, 2018 00:27
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Around here, I think it's no more than 25% notch in an exterior/load bearing or 40% otherwise. That corner looks bogus to me if it's bearing (which it is). It looks pretty sloppy all around, so I'm not surprised if it doesn't meet code.
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Aug 10, 2018 00:57
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