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GRINDCORE MEGGIDO posted:Anyone got anywhere clocking ryzen+? Check out the Ryzen Timing Calculator, and dig through the posts in his signature also. He does an excellent job explaining the relationship between the various voltages/resistance settings and how they impact which subtimings/clockspeeds will boot Ever since I've found this and followed it like gospel I've been able to get "the most" (within 1% of top benchmarks for a given kit) out of any ram on Ryzen. Hynix M Dye, A Dye, Samsung B dye, they'll all get there IIRC you should be able to get that kit to run at CL14-3600, which ends up being something silly like 2.6ns faster than anything CL16>3600. Edit: His modded bios guide is also fantastic and tends to make things easier with most boards.
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Jul 15, 2018 10:44
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Excellent, ty. I'm hoping this itx board with short memory traces is a good one. I'll see what it can do early next week 
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Jul 15, 2018 17:05
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Not that it fuckin means anything at all but it seems a lot of Zen+ heads have chosen hitting >2000 in MT Cinebench (Usually at 4.3 or 4.35) as the point of diminishing returns (~1850 or so with an 1800X and AIO)
New Zealand can eat me fucked around with this message at 20:39 on Jul 15, 2018 |
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Jul 15, 2018 20:37
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Please excuse my ignorance but I only just got a R7 2700 and now I'm playing around with it. Not being a poweruser I figured I could underclock the CPU so I googled a bit and came up with this: Manually setting the VDDCR CPU is one way to do it, but since it does not take into account the lower power consumption when idling is not recommended (less consumption under load, but idling will consume more power). Using the "offset" setting seems to be the easiest and most convenient option. It will lower the voltage at every stage by a given amount. The best way to do it is probably some "adaptive" setting, but I couldn't find it on my Asus X470 Pro and I don't want to fiddle around with P-states anyway.  This is what I did, changing the voltage using the offset mode. Sorry for the bad quality. Is this the right thing to do? Currently I am at about -0.12 and it runs stable. What will happen if I go too low? Let's say it won't boot. Take out the battery and reset the BIOS? Or do this procedure where you shortcut two contacts and it resets it? Will there be warning signs before that happens? What will happen if I change the VDDCR SOC instead? This is mainly for the memory controller or somesuch, right? Sorry for rambling.
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Aug 5, 2018 14:50
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On modern Asus motherboards I believe if you hold Insert while booting it'll reset all of the settings, no opening the case needed. Adaptive tries to increase the voltage to what you set when there's a load, pointless for undervolting. I like offset for undervolting, I'd lower it by .05 and test it overnight and repeat, it should crash in Windows with a stress app long before it stops booting. I run my laptop at -.11 and it saves 20 watts along with 15 degrees, probably helps the battery life too, but it was already getting over 6 hours stock so I never tested that. You can undervolt everything but saving 25% power on a device that uses 4 watts is way less significant than the CPU that uses 65 watts.
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Aug 5, 2018 17:39
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E- I don't have adaptive setting in my asrock x470 bios either. Does it exist on any 370 / x470 boards? GRINDCORE MEGGIDO fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Aug 5, 2018 |
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Aug 5, 2018 18:12
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Thank you both! :-)
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Aug 5, 2018 21:23
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Some people earlier were wondering about the longevity of AIO coolers. I've been running a coolermaster seidon 240m basically 24/7 since november 2013 and just jammed it onto my GPU which was thermal throttling all to hell. It knocked an R9 290x from 95*c and thermal throttling all over the place to 55*c with a 10% overclock after 5 years of use on a cpu. I've never opened it up, but I'm tempted to replace the fluid in it because it has been nearly 5 years now. What's even more amazing is a put an old rear end air cooler after leveling and lapping it onto my i5 2500k and it's still holding firm at 4.6ghz after 7 years, topping out at 65*c. 7 years of abuse on the cpu, motherboard, and power supply and everything is still holding strong. Now that i'm actually able to overclock the GPU, neither wattman nor afterburner let me adjust voltages beyond stock. Is there another utility all the cool kids are using? e: Found the option in afterburner, but only 100mv, probably for the best. Still, from 1000/1250 to 1180/1500 holding steady at 60*C maxed out with furmark. Definitely going to be noticable over throttling down to 925mhz. e2: holy hell does that heat the room up in a hurry. Powershift fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Aug 7, 2018 |
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Aug 7, 2018 05:53
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is this a place where I can ask a few UNDERCLOCKING questions? 
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Aug 8, 2018 21:15
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.....but why? unless you mean undervolting?
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Aug 8, 2018 21:27
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Well, I wasn't too sure where to even ask this. I got an AMD FX-9590 cpu and A GIGABYTE "FX READY" mobo. They meant FX READY for a 8350 not a 9590..needless to say i'm a dingdong and the mobo doesn't support a 220W Cpu. I was hoping to underclock/volt that poo poo back down to a stock 8350. Again, sorry if this is the wrong thread for this. I wasn't sure where I could ask. ShortyMR.CAT fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 21:34
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The 8350 and 9590 aren't that far apart in real-life power consumption. I may be wrong here, but i think the 9590 is just a higher binned version of the same chip. Chances are if the board will run with the CPU at all, it will limit it to what is safe, basically run the 9590 as an 8350. You could try to unvervolt and keep the same frequency if it lets you, 1.5375v to 1.425v isn't that far off. What board specifically?
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Aug 8, 2018 21:56
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From what I read is yeah, I guess the 9590 was just a 8350 that was overclocked from the get go. I have a Gigabyte 970A-ud3p* I believe. I messed around the Bios and and tried to do the best I can with what little knowledge I have. Turned things off or set voltage to NORMAL instead of Auto. The issue is when its under load of a cpu intensive game my computer would just hardlock. Then after some messing around I got it to work in a somewhat stable condition. Now the computer will shut itself off if it overheats. I was hoping undervotling could bring these crazy temps down and it doesn't help theres a heatwave going on. Cryorig H7 heatsink being used by the way ShortyMR.CAT fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 22:10
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Looks like the Rev 4+ supports it, the Rev 3 doesn't. Undervolting alone is going to be difficulty because at this point it sounds like it will be unstable with too little OR too much voltage. I would definitely try starting at 1.425v which is the stock voltage of the 8350. https://www.overclock.net/forum/10-amd-cpus/1506702-undervolting-fx-9590-yes-flank3r-want-back-overclock-net.html This guy got down to 1.344v so i would imagine it shouldn't be too hard to keep it stable at stock clocks. People were probably clocking 8350s up to 4.7ghz on those boards before the revision 4s. e: as evidenced by how hard i'm pushing old hardware, I'm an idiot, and would probably determine the highest voltage it's stable at and then see what kind of clocks i can crank it up to. Powershift fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 22:31
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^^Thanks for the info though poo poo! Im sorry, i just got home, its actually a Gigabyte 970A-UD3P mobo.  I was actually gonna brake down and get a mobo that actually supports the fx-9590, but they are all in the $200ish range and or sold out. At that price I might as well switch to a ryzen 1500/1600. Amd4+ are plentiful at the moment. Or go backwards and get a fx-8350 for $85 on newegg ShortyMR.CAT fucked around with this message at 23:45 on Aug 8, 2018 |
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Aug 8, 2018 23:09
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Dumb question but are you sure your CPU cooler is seated properly, with the right amount of thermal paste, all that fun stuff? If you are getting overheating issues at stock voltages (unless I am misunderstanding) there might be an easy physical fix.
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Aug 9, 2018 14:19
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I connected my chassis fans to my motherboard headers, but the fan speed seems fairly low even though it's pretty hot. The fans are - supposed to be - controlled through my ASUS BIOS on the latest Crosshair for Ryzen. I tried using SpeedFan to see whether the speeds change, but it apparently can't detect the fans, so what do I use to test? Also, does anyone have experience mounting their own fan filters, because this one doesn't have a filter for the top front fan, and I the custom fan filter shop is US-based which doesn't fly when I'm based in Europe.
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Aug 9, 2018 15:02
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Lockback posted:Dumb question but are you sure your CPU cooler is seated properly, with the right amount of thermal paste, all that fun stuff? If you are getting overheating issues at stock voltages (unless I am misunderstanding) there might be an easy physical fix. Edit: the FX-9590 apparently runs at high temps. Like, crazy high. I'm a first time builder and I'm not gonna lie, I didn't properly apply paste the first time. When I got the Cryorig H7 I wiped everything clean and made sure I only put the proper amount of thermal paste. Immediately noticed a huge temp difference. Dumb mistake on my part. Quick Update on my situation. Set the voltage down to 1.425v to see what happens. Played 30 mins of No Mans Sky and had a hardlock. Rebooted went back to bios, checked around t see what I could do. Disabled Cool and Quiet mode and disabled a TURBO performance mode. Booted up the p.c loaded up Speccy and I had immediate high temps. Like 79-80c from boot up. I thought man, I hosed this up royally. But then I noticed it never went any higher, so I loaded up Overwatch window mode and I played a few matches. No issues what so ever. The temp just literally hovered from 77-80c under load. So I got brave, loaded up Battlefield 4 (this game was always a guarantee shut down or hardlock) and no issues ! Played like...an hour or two before I went to bed. tdlr; idk wtf i did y0. but poo poo works now?? ShortyMR.CAT fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Aug 9, 2018 |
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Aug 9, 2018 18:07
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Cool n quiet allows the cpu to go lower speed when it's not busy. If you turn it off it'll stay at full speed all of the time. If it's stable with the turbo off you should consider turning cool n quiet back on just to save power. Of course I guess if you have a 9590 you don't really care about power bills!
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Aug 9, 2018 20:59
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If you check my link on the guy undervolting, it draws a higher voltage at idle than under load. I would definitely try individually enabling turbo and cool and quiet mode to see if one of them specificially is causing the instability, get it stable, and then start lowering the voltage incrementally to see where you can remain stable. lower voltages almost always means lower temps. Also 80*c still seems crazy high. I would definitely check first that your fan is plugged into the CPU fan header and not an aux header on the board, and then that it's properly seated.
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Aug 9, 2018 21:09
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I swear it is when I had all the options on it hovered around 20-30c idle and 60-70c under load. I'll do some tinkering around, but I'm assuming the Turbo Boost mode was the culprit. I've had Cool and Quiet on/off a few different times with different configurations in Bios on/off. Thanks for all the tips/suggestions and help my dudes/dudettes.
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Aug 10, 2018 02:58
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I kind of wonder why you have this FX 9590, the best-worst CPU of the worst recent AMD architecture. Was it a
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Aug 10, 2018 03:10
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Long story short. Bought a 1070 from a buddy forb$270. Was gonna upgrade gradually. Then my old p.c finally crapped out on me after 6 years. Got engaged. Planning on saving for a wedding, so budget was tight. Another buddy gave me his old mobo(gigabyte 970A-UD3P) its an am3+ soccket. Google best Amd processors. Fx-9590 pops up. Pretty drat decent and only $100ish bucks. Figure i could run on this set up until i save up somemoney for the Ryzens. Turns out i have no reading comprehension and ended up with an $100 room heater in the middle of summer.
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Aug 10, 2018 04:11
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I see. Can you just turn the frequency multiplier down to make it into a pricey 8350?
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Aug 10, 2018 04:35
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I can definitely try. Got it running stable at the moment. When i mess with the voltage it screws all up. As long as it doesn't shut off or hardlock, ill call that a win for now.
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Aug 10, 2018 09:40
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Anyone have experience with the z68 gigabyte ud2? Just picked up a system for a song with a 980, 2500k, and a 500GB ssd. I've gotten everything going, seems to be working well, but every time I go to start overclocking it in bios I'm not allowed to Change the voltage of anything or the clock ratio. The second I select any of those things, it hard locks. It's loving mystifying. So I went to the Intel extreme tuning utility, resigned to doing everything in software instead of the bios, and yet again I can't change ratios or voltage of anything, the selections are greyed out. It's a z68 board. What the heck gives?
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Aug 12, 2018 22:53
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Might not be your issue, as you have a sandy bridge processor, but is the bios up to date? gigabyte boards had problems overclocking ivy bridge processors similar to what you're describing. http://www.legitreviews.com/intel-ivy-bridge-processor-overclocking-proves-challenging-for-some-motherboard-makers_1917
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Aug 12, 2018 23:05
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That sounds really similar to my issue, I'll whack the latest bios on it once I'm done transferring my steam library. The ssd is magic, but transferring 200+ gb of games from a wd blue sucks.
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Aug 12, 2018 23:38
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A brown out ran through right when I was updating the bios Definitely killed the power supply and motherboard, we'll see what else died. God doesn't want me to game. 
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Aug 13, 2018 05:11
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How dead is dead? Did you try clearing CMOS on it?
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Aug 13, 2018 12:55
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You might be able to save it. Usually a recovery portion is flashed first that takes a fraction of a second, then the actual bios is flashed, with bad luck the recovery can still be corrupted, but there might be info in the manual about how to save it.
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Aug 13, 2018 13:41
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SeaGoatSupreme posted:A brown out ran through right when I was updating the bios Talk about horrible luck. I would expect the mobo to be dead, but why the PSU?
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Aug 13, 2018 18:05
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Lolcano Eruption posted:Talk about horrible luck. I would expect the mobo to be dead, but why the PSU? I assume the brownout killed the PSU unrelated to the BIOS update. I suspect you can recover the Motherboard though. I've had bad luck/incredibly-stupid-on-my-part stuff happen and you can almost always recover a corrupt flash.
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Aug 13, 2018 19:03
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ufarn posted:How dead is dead? Did you try clearing CMOS on it? Cleared cmos, running on one stick of known good ram and another power supply. Fans spin for a second then stop no matter what I do. This board has a second bios, but it only switches over after a specific power/reset press or if the bios fails multiple times. The board won't stay on for long enough to get there, and it's not switching over on its own. I can't really think of another thing to do, so I've set up a trade for a 3570k and z77 Saber tooth for the 2500k and an optiplex 7020.
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Aug 13, 2018 20:39
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Which small motherboard would be best power-wise for a 5ghz 8086K? I'm leaning towards the Asrock Z370 mITX Fatal1ty and the EVGA Z370 mATX. It'll be going into a Meshify Mini C case, so mATX is the biggest I can go.
Endymion FRS MK1 fucked around with this message at 23:59 on Aug 13, 2018 |
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Aug 13, 2018 23:54
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Which small motherboard would be best power-wise for a 5ghz 8086K? I'm leaning towards the Asrock Z370 mITX Fatal1ty and the EVGA Z370 mATX. It'll be going into a Meshify Mini C case, so mATX is the biggest I can go. The two you just mentioned are both listed as "top of midrange" on this chart. Upper tier looks like all ATX boards.
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Aug 14, 2018 01:03
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mewse posted:The two you just mentioned are both listed as "top of midrange" on this chart. Upper tier looks like all ATX boards. So is that bad? The 8086K should be binned to not need ridiculous voltage right?
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Aug 14, 2018 01:24
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:So is that bad? The 8086K should be binned to not need ridiculous voltage right? No they should be very good, the top range stuff is for absurd stuff like liquid nitrogen OCs and the bottom range has awful poo poo like missing heatsinks. Top of midrange should provide very good overclocking.
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Aug 14, 2018 01:30
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mewse posted:No they should be very good, the top range stuff is for absurd stuff like liquid nitrogen OCs and the bottom range has awful poo poo like missing heatsinks. Top of midrange should provide very good overclocking. Ah, ok thanks, that's what I thought. My only concern I guess is the lack of USB 3.1 but I don't think that'll be too much of an issue. All EVGA Z370 seem to lack it? Edit: Guess my other choices are the MSI Z370 Gaming Pro AC or an Asus Strix Z370-G, but I'd maybe be better off with the EVGA Edit 2: The CPU itself will be delidded and cooled by a Scythe Mugen Rev B Endymion FRS MK1 fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Aug 14, 2018 |
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Aug 14, 2018 01:39
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:Ah, ok thanks, that's what I thought. My only concern I guess is the lack of USB 3.1 but I don't think that'll be too much of an issue. All EVGA Z370 seem to lack it?
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Aug 14, 2018 01:55
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