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Hey AI, giant car idiot here. My Subaru is due for its 50,000 mile service, I've never had to get this done and I want to make sure I don't get ripped off or get things done I don't need done. How do find a good place to get this done that isn't a dealership?
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Aug 16, 2018 20:46
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First, RTFM and see what is actually required for that service. It should all be spelled out. Nothing else needs to be done unless it's been neglected or if you are having specific issues.
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Aug 16, 2018 20:54
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Uthor posted:First, RTFM and see what is actually required for that service. It should all be spelled out. Nothing else needs to be done unless it's been neglected or if you are having specific issues. Right I was just hoping for an easy way to find a good place to actually get it done or things to look out for.
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Aug 16, 2018 22:13
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If you are mildly technically inclined, you can do things like air filters in minutes and save a bunch of money. Look out for "this air filter looks dirty" junk, recommendations for services beyond what's specified, etc. I would bet a 50k service is just fluids, so be wary of dire warnings of catastrophic suspension issues and the like. There was a site (Car Talk?) that had local mechanic reviews, but last I looked (years and years ago), they didn't have any in my area and I forgot the name. I found my mechanic on Yelp looking at the reviews. Or ask people you know. (I've used Tire Rack to find a tire place, specifically) Edit: https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files
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Aug 16, 2018 22:39
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2005 Camry XLE 4 Cylinder Turn on A/C but nothing happens until I whack the underside of the passenger side dash board, then I get good, cold air but it rattles like crazy. What is the part that went bad and could I fix this without expert skill/knowledge?
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Aug 16, 2018 22:51
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CongoJack posted:Right I was just hoping for an easy way to find a good place to actually get it done or things to look out for. Any auto shop should be able to handle what's necessary. Pull out the owner's manual and give them a list of what to do.
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Aug 16, 2018 23:00
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A GLISTENING HODOR posted:2005 Camry XLE 4 Cylinder this is probably not what's causing your problem but I've recently used your troubleshooting technique with decent results when my windscreen wiper was only working half the time. That was solved - until I had time to check things out properly - by whacking the passenger side of the dashboard because that's where the fuse box was and the fuse had shaken loose a bit.
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Aug 16, 2018 23:01
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A GLISTENING HODOR posted:2005 Camry XLE 4 Cylinder Is there air blowing out before you whack it or no air at all then cold air after whacking? If it's the latter it's probably the blower motor, either a bearing is failing or the fan is detached from the motor shaft. Probably not a thing you'd want to fix if you aren't technically skilled. If it's the former it might be a blend door sticking but that wouldn't explain the noise.
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Aug 16, 2018 23:15
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shy boy from chess club posted:Is there air blowing out before you whack it or no air at all then cold air after whacking? If it's the latter it's probably the blower motor, either a bearing is failing or the fan is detached from the motor shaft. Probably not a thing you'd want to fix if you aren't technically skilled. If it's the former it might be a blend door sticking but that wouldn't explain the noise. I can feel the teeniest bit of ice cold air in the vent. After hitting the under-dash it kicks into full speed. This is the rattling emitting from the dash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wUxHwIIgtE
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Aug 16, 2018 23:43
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I would also guess blower motor issue of some kind, the job could be easy or hellish depending on the car and whether or not the dash has to be removed.
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Aug 17, 2018 00:21
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It sounds like something is in the fan. I know some Toyotas suck napkins out of the glove box into it but not the specific models. Heard it from a Toyota tech friend.
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Aug 17, 2018 01:16
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2015 Fiat 500 Pop, 4 cylinder, Standard, 31k miles Coming home from work a few days ago I was suddenly unable to change gears. I can put it in gear when it's off so I crawled home in 2nd and took it to a mechanic I trust. He felt it was the master cylinder, but suggested I look into warranty coverage. Had it towed to the dealer (covered by warranty) and they inspected it today. They called to say they're going to tear out the transmission and see if it's the throwout bearing. I don't think they've started just yet so I tentatively plan on calling in the morning and telling them to leave it alone so I can tow it myself to a different dealer in another town. I'm suspicious because there wasn't any noise leading up the failure, in fact the clutch has never been unusually noisy. There was a recall some time ago for this model on the clutch diaphragm and I brought it in to get serviced. Part of me who hasn't trusted them from day 1 thinks they messed it up or didn't do it, and I've been reading about other problems folks have had with similar models (forks on the pressure plate giving out, etc). It's worth noting there's no leaks so my mechanic could be wrong. 3 years old and 31k miles. I admit to leaving the clutch depressed sometimes while at stoplights (bad habit I know) but am I right in suspecting that 31k miles is too early for otherwise competent driver fault? Could that behavior effect the throwout bearing? I drove a standard drive '80 Toyota Corolla for 4 years in high school with well over 250k miles on it (I'm sure I added 50k+) without any problems. landis fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Aug 17, 2018 |
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Aug 17, 2018 02:13
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landis posted:2015 Fiat 500 Pop, 4 cylinder, Standard, 31k miles It's under warranty, so let the dealer figure it out. It's their problem to get it right.
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Aug 17, 2018 04:44
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Deteriorata posted:It's under warranty, so let the dealer figure it out. It's their problem to get it right. Ah right, the part I forgot was the dealer initially told me that the clutch wouldn't be covered as it is "subject to wear and tear." But to be fair that was before they had taken a look, so I'm sure there's a bit of not promising too much.
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Aug 17, 2018 05:09
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landis posted:Ah right, the part I forgot was the dealer initially told me that the clutch wouldn't be covered as it is "subject to wear and tear." But to be fair that was before they had taken a look, so I'm sure there's a bit of not promising too much. The clutch disc itself maybe, but the components that make it up (like the clutch master cylinder) are not wear items. After 30k miles though there is no way in hell the disc is worn.
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Aug 17, 2018 05:17
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landis posted:Ah right, the part I forgot was the dealer initially told me that the clutch wouldn't be covered as it is "subject to wear and tear." But to be fair that was before they had taken a look, so I'm sure there's a bit of not promising too much. Take to a higher level, then. Even if it is the clutch plates themselves, wearing out at 31k is nonsense. None of the rest of the clutch parts should give out that early, either - and the dealer knows it. Early clutch failure that at least catches the leading edge of the "normal wear" bell curve would be at about 75k miles. 100k miles is more normal. Your argument is that no part of that clutch should be failing under normal usage at 31k miles and something had to have been defective. They may accuse you of doing high-stress clutch-drops for 0-60 runs or other abusive behavior. Have a rebuttal ready for that - witnesses who have seen you drive the car and will swear you've never done it. You have to go in ready for combat, then talk politely and give them a chance to do it right before you start lowering your guns. Do not agree that you might have at any time tried to smoke the tires or anything like that. Keep the focus on the defective part, not abusive driving. Getting the full diagnosis may obviate the need to fight - they may concede that the part is their fault. If they want to go to the mat, though, go to the mat and concede nothing. FCA Customer Care: (888-242-6342) 888-CIAO-FIAT - have your VIN available when you call to set the process in motion. That gets you someone above the dealer's head applying pressure on them to settle, as well. Basically the dealer is afraid if they repair it for you, corporate will deny them reimbursement and they'll eat the cost. Getting corporate involved on your side, that they'll get paid if they do fix it, often is the lubrication needed to make it happen. Anyway, you can role-play a tough-guy for a while and have some fun with it.
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Aug 17, 2018 05:30
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CongoJack posted:Right I was just hoping for an easy way to find a good place to actually get it done or things to look out for. In addition to the link Uthor provided (which is where I found the mechanic I used for 19 or 20 years!), check Yelp. I'd personally avoid any chain shops - look for independent, locally owned shops - they have a lot more riding on their reputation, and are a lot more likely to be honest. But more than likely it's just an oil change, maybe a transmission fluid change, air filter, cabin air filter, and a look at the suspension. Also stuff like greasing door hinges. landis posted:Ah right, the part I forgot was the dealer initially told me that the clutch wouldn't be covered as it is "subject to wear and tear." But to be fair that was before they had taken a look, so I'm sure there's a bit of not promising too much. The clutch refusing to disengage isn't going to be a wear and tear item - that's likely something in the hydraulics, or the throwout bearing seized. Some cars have a bastard child combination throwout bearing / slave cylinder (not sure if yours does) - that shouldn't have gone out so soon even if you do sit with your foot on the clutch at red lights. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:35 on Aug 17, 2018 |
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Aug 17, 2018 05:32
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Is there a good beginner resource y’all can suggest? I don’t have the space or tools to do stuff like my own oil changes at the moment but I love reading threads in here. I know the very basics of how engines and systems work but there’s a vast gap between “I know mostly in theory how an internal combustion engine works” and “here’s me pulling out the old engine and replacing it by one from a different manufacturer” like some of you guys do.  Or is it just one of those experiential things where I should save up for a beater I can wrench on and break?
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Aug 17, 2018 05:44
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KakerMix posted:The clutch disc itself maybe, but the components that make it up (like the clutch master cylinder) are not wear items. After 30k miles though there is no way in hell the disc is worn. Deteriorata posted:great infoy words STR posted:The clutch refusing to disengage isn't going to be a wear and tear item - that's likely something in the hydraulics, or the throwout bearing seized. Some cars have a bastard child combination throwout bearing / slave cylinder (not sure if yours does) - that shouldn't have gone out so soon even if you do sit with your foot on the clutch at red lights.
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Aug 17, 2018 05:45
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Dr. Kyle Farnsworth posted:Is there a good beginner resource y’all can suggest? I don’t have the space or tools to do stuff like my own oil changes at the moment but I love reading threads in here. I know the very basics of how engines and systems work but there’s a vast gap between “I know mostly in theory how an internal combustion engine works” and “here’s me pulling out the old engine and replacing it by one from a different manufacturer” like some of you guys do. Youtube is an amazing resource. Most normal DIY jobs on most normal cars are covered in some detail, usually with really bad camera work by a heavily accented man with hairy arms. As for tools, a large-ish 1/2 or 3/8 drive socket set is the first thing to get IMO. After that, hydraulic floor jack and a pair of jack stands. With those things you can do a lot.
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Aug 17, 2018 10:04
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Speaking of DIY videos on YouTube, I wish Edd China would do more "Best practice" videos. So satisfying watching it get done by the book.
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Aug 17, 2018 11:27
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Dr. Kyle Farnsworth posted:Is there a good beginner resource y’all can suggest? I don’t have the space or tools to do stuff like my own oil changes at the moment but I love reading threads in here. I know the very basics of how engines and systems work but there’s a vast gap between “I know mostly in theory how an internal combustion engine works” and “here’s me pulling out the old engine and replacing it by one from a different manufacturer” like some of you guys do. Have a car and when it breaks, try and figure out whats broken, and then look on youtube/forums for videos/guides of people fixing the same thing. See if you think you can follow that. Pick up tools generally as you need them- a basic socket set is often a good start, as is an obd2 reader and torque. I don't have a garage, I do it roadside. I have been doing the above for the last few years and not only did I enjoy myself fixing poo poo and learning, I have also saved myself a chunk of cash doing what I can myself- its also a lot nicer to go talk to a mechanic with "well I tried x and y, can you check z for me" rather than "I dunno whats wrong, halp".
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Aug 17, 2018 11:59
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Invalido posted:Youtube is an amazing resource. Most normal DIY jobs on most normal cars are covered in some detail, usually with really bad camera work by a heavily accented man with hairy arms. ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer are pretty good learning resources. They don't always get it right 100% of the time, but mostly you should find them interesting. (They both have voices that irritate me) I personally prefer South Main Auto Repair and Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics (great for electrical magic) Anyone else want to weigh in? As for practical stuff - having a 'spare' car to work on is much relaxing than doing stuff on your daily driver.
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Aug 17, 2018 11:59
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spog posted:ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer are pretty good learning resources. They don't always get it right 100% of the time, but mostly you should find them interesting. I can't stand Scotty Kilmer. He's stuck in the 70's so I wouldn't take any real advice from him on modern cars. Doesn't believe in jack stands neither. https://jalopnik.com/this-emmy-award-winning-youtube-mechanic-is-full-of-shi-1696524549 Having a second car is something that really is dawning upon me as being pretty much required to be your own mechanic. Being able to leave your poo poo and come back a week later is much better for your sanity.
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Aug 17, 2018 12:43
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spog posted:ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer are pretty good learning resources. They don't always get it right 100% of the time, but mostly you should find them interesting. Seconding south main auto repair. That guy is great. You can do a lot on the street, although your neighbors may not love you depending on where you live. I would start with changing your air filters. Usually you’ll have two. One in cabin and one for the engine.
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Aug 17, 2018 13:50
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MrOnBicycle posted:I can't stand Scotty Kilmer. He's stuck in the 70's so I wouldn't take any real advice from him on modern cars. Doesn't believe in jack stands neither. Yeah that article covers pretty much every reason not to watch Kilmer. Guy's a loving tool and a dangerous one at that. South Main is god-tier at diagnostics work, and the reason I have a scope on my wishlist.
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Aug 17, 2018 14:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:South Main is god-tier at diagnostics work, and the reason I have a scope on my wishlist. May I suggest Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics as one to watch as well? Guy goes through the whole diagnostic process step-by-step and you can follow his thinking. He's not one of those gurus who can tell which connection is broken with his eyes closed; he has to work through each problem and some of them are quite an interesting challenge. e.g. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PvcV5dU-LO8
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Aug 17, 2018 15:27
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South Main is legit. I can't stand most youtube auto personalities or w/e but he knows his poo poo.
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Aug 17, 2018 16:11
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spog posted:ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer are pretty good learning resources. They don't always get it right 100% of the time, but mostly you should find them interesting. Engineering Explained is a good one for understanding why what parts do what in cars.
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Aug 17, 2018 16:35
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spog posted:ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer are pretty good learning resources. They don't always get it right 100% of the time, but mostly you should find them interesting. I love both Eric O. and Ivan! For really in-depth diagnosis and explanation I cannot recommend DiagnoseDan enough. His style and accent might take a little getting used to but the content is top notch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RO12NiE5g1E&t=47s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7gggowzPSE
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Aug 17, 2018 17:46
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loving doors. We worked on a problem a couple years ago with DOORS setting O2 sensor codes. Turned out to be only tangentially related (opening the door was turning on the ECU which then caused the code to set and can't/won't go into details) but it was a weird day when I got the call, "Sooo...... can opening a car door set an O2 sensor code," from a customer engineer who really didn't want to ask the question because of how ridiculous it was.
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Aug 17, 2018 18:01
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Recommendations on YouTube and not one mention of AvE? For shame.
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Aug 17, 2018 19:53
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totalnewbie posted:loving doors. Weld his doors shut, Duke boys style. Problem solved.
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Aug 17, 2018 20:56
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Godholio posted:Recommendations on YouTube and not one mention of AvE? For shame. We were talking about channels that do auto diagnostics. Not uncle bumblefuck messing around with a clapped out bridgeport okay? 
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Aug 17, 2018 21:22
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2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car?
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Aug 17, 2018 22:18
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car? If there isn't one that came with it from the factory, you might try checking out some Toyota specific forums to see what people there are doing. Are you looking to install yourself? If you're going to pay a car audio guy to do it, then I'd be tempted to ask for a bit of advice from them (make sure its a reputable shop), maybe pick out a radio based on their advice and then let them do their thing.
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Aug 17, 2018 22:22
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car? Crutchfield's find what fits your car page.
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Aug 17, 2018 22:22
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:Crutchfield's find what fits your car page. Yeah this. It’s super easy. Looks to be a standard double DIN setup. Crutchfield will have a bezel for the new radio.
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Aug 17, 2018 22:56
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car? My car is 5 years older and I just got a stereo off of AliExpress for $15
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Aug 17, 2018 22:57
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car? 2007? Old-rear end? Try finding a decent shaft style radio now. Anyway, radio sizes these days when they're not molded into the dash come in 2 sizes, single and double DIN. It looks like your car can take double DIN receivers, but they do make plastic hole adapters to take single DIN. Most of those will come with a handy dandy pocket too. Some cars take almost standard sizes but still need a little plastic ring to fill a gap in the dash. Sometimes there are adapters out there to take the place of certain dash controls mounted into the radio bezel. I'm seconding Crutchfield. If you're completely new to swapping head units, then stick with them. Their site is awesome. They have all of the adapters and wire harnesses to get what you need. Hell, they were awesome pre-internet. They've been around that long. Also for a newbie, if you're going to get one with bluetooth for your phone, then get one with an internal microphone. Otherwise, you'll have to route the cable for the mike behind panels and around stuff and it's generally a pain. I'll put it this way: they helped me put a new radio into my 1988 Ford F150 about 5 years ago. Also, be really lazy. Use Bluetooth streaming instead of an AUX jack. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:12 on Aug 17, 2018 |
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Aug 17, 2018 23:05
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