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With paint, you get what you pay for; cheap paint is a waste of your labor. Sherwin Williams and Behr Premium Plus Ultra are pretty decent. It never hurts to use primer, whatever you're painting on top of. You can just get the paint+primer mixed paints if you like. But the main thing is to prep the surface. Everything needs to be clean, and any loose/bubbling paint needs to be scraped or sanded off (I'm pretty sure you already know this, but just in case). As long as the ants aren't getting into the interior of the house, I wouldn't worry too much. Plenty of house sidings have lots of gaps (e.g. the ones that work basically like shingles) and it's not a big deal. Siding isn't meant to be a completely impermeable surface, it's just meant to keep water out.
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Aug 18, 2018 17:48
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Sherwin Williams was having a 30% off sale recently so I splurged on their Emerald line. My painter mentioned that it was the best stuff he’s ever used, and shaved a bunch of money off the estimate since he didn’t have to do nearly as much work. Also, looking now, they’re having a 35% off sale.
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Aug 18, 2018 18:09
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Thirding real Sherwin Williams, not the Sherwin Williams you get at Lowe’s. I would power wash the whole house before painting if you haven’t already done so-getting all the dust and dirt and grime off really helps with adhesion. You don’t need to prime the entire house, but do spot prime any areas where bare wood is showing with actual primer. Primer is really good at sticking to whatever is below it and making a good surface for paint to stick to, but it’s not that great at resisting the elements. Paint is really good at resisting the elements and not so incredible at sticking to things. It’s always seemed to me that one product trying to do both those things is going to involve some compromises.
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Aug 18, 2018 19:06
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I like Benjamin Moore paint. Behr is the worst paint I’ve ever used.
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Aug 18, 2018 23:56
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BigFactory posted:I like Benjamin Moore paint. Behr is the worst paint I’ve ever used. The "Premium Plus Ultra" tier is favorably-reviewed (Consumer Reports says it's basically identical in quality to Sherwin Williams), but yeah, avoid the other tiers. Or just avoid it too, because the name is pretty dumb.
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Aug 19, 2018 00:18
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I have a pretty simple question that I can't think of where else to post it. I want to build a tabletop stand for my TV that I can put my PS4 in. I don't want it to be big - I'm thinking ~12"x17"x4". The PS4 is 2" tall, so that leaves 2" of space between the top of it and the roof (?) of the stand. My main concern is if there'll be enough airflow to keep the PS4 from overheating? I think it should be fine, but with the exhaust vents of the TV being so close I want to make sure I don't fry anything. I'm not a heavy gamer so I rarely run it for more than a couple of hours.
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Aug 19, 2018 01:43
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We are renovating our kitchen and our new faucet is one of those fancy pull down spray rinse types. Our on-tap Brita filter will not fit this, and my wife likes having on-demand “filtered” water as our municipal water is pretty... tasty. Is there a decent non-super-expensive filter I can install inline the cold water supply underneath the sink? I would go to Culligans in town but I’m scared they’re just gonna try to sell me some monthly fee based crap.
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Aug 19, 2018 01:48
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yoohoo posted:I have a pretty simple question that I can't think of where else to post it. This is going to sound silly but bear with me. Get out the manual you totally saved and lookup the installation instructions. They likely tell you the minimum clearances on all 4 sides. The intakes for the cooling are what matter. What is the intake temperature where it is going to be mounted? The TV exhausting onto it from above isn't a big deal, heat rises.
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Aug 19, 2018 01:56
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Spagghentleman posted:We are renovating our kitchen and our new faucet is one of those fancy pull down spray rinse types. Our on-tap Brita filter will not fit this, and my wife likes having on-demand “filtered” water as our municipal water is pretty... tasty. The filter itself is easy, there are innumerable inline filters you can install to do that. The problem is delivery; If you plumb the filter into the main sink supply, you’ll be changing filters every month because ALL the water you use for dishes, washing hands, etc etc will be filtered. It’s far better to get something like this:  They can be installed on just about any sink you can cut a hole in, or in the hole for the soap dispenser, and generally come with a PEX T fitting and barbs for a filter.
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Aug 19, 2018 11:48
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BigFactory posted:I like Benjamin Moore paint. Behr is the worst paint I’ve ever used. One of my friends was a major sales director and product manager for Sherwin Williams and then for Benjamin Moore, and he assures us that BM is the best paint around. Interestingly, while it's nearly twice as expensive, you use so much less of it that it, since it covers better and is easier to work with, that it ends up not costing twice to do the same job.
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Aug 19, 2018 13:42
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Jerk McJerkface posted:One of my friends was a major sales director and product manager for Sherwin Williams and then for Benjamin Moore, and he assures us that BM is the best paint around. Interestingly, while it's nearly twice as expensive, you use so much less of it that it, since it covers better and is easier to work with, that it ends up not costing twice to do the same job. It's also nearly constantly on sale at some level of discount, often a pretty good one. I think it's the best paint I've used.
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Aug 19, 2018 14:39
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Jerk McJerkface posted:One of my friends was a major sales director and product manager for Sherwin Williams and then for Benjamin Moore, and he assures us that BM is the best paint around. Interestingly, while it's nearly twice as expensive, you use so much less of it that it, since it covers better and is easier to work with, that it ends up not costing twice to do the same job. Oh, the sales director says it's good huh
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Aug 19, 2018 15:10
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H110Hawk posted:This is going to sound silly but bear with me. Get out the manual you totally saved and lookup the installation instructions. They likely tell you the minimum clearances on all 4 sides. What do you know - it says only to "never place the system within 4 inches of the wall." I'll take that to mean if I have more that 4 inches of clearance on the left, right, and back of the machine and ~3inches on top I'll be good.
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Aug 19, 2018 17:07
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yoohoo posted:What do you know - it says only to "never place the system within 4 inches of the wall." I'll take that to mean if I have more that 4 inches of clearance on the left, right, and back of the machine and ~3inches on top I'll be good. There you have it! Look at the device all around. They likely only mean front/rear. If there are no vents on the sides it doesn't matter. The 4 sides I was referring to were top/bottom front/back. There are little feet on the bottom, don't put anything past the flat plane those make. If the top is curved then nothing directly on top. 4" in the back is likely exhaust. Make sure you have ambient temperature air coming in the front freely (no door / cover) and you're fine.
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Aug 19, 2018 17:35
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Speaking of paint. We are repainting the kitchen now that the walls have dropped below 50% tinted paint (vs just primer.) This is also another room where we are unstupid-ing their match-the-walls-with-no-trim ceiling color. gently caress you previous owner. I realized this room is the most greasy due to cooking, we fry stuff frequently. Should I be cleaning the walls and ceiling prior to application? If so, what are people's opinions on what to use? Google says something as simple as a mop w/ vinegar + dish soap, or laundry detergent solutions. Is it that easy or should I use something more caustic? We're using good but not super quality paint: Valspar Ultra Satin for the walls, and Valspar purple-to-white magic ceiling paint.
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Aug 19, 2018 19:48
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H110Hawk posted:Should I be cleaning the walls and ceiling prior to application? You should be doing this regardless of which room you're in. The kitchen just needs more cleaning. I've always used TSP for cleaning walls prior to painting.
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Aug 19, 2018 19:58
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I sprayed ZEP orange degreaser; let it stand; wipe down; repeat until clean. Then, wipe everything down with trisodium phosphate. As my late father - a paint chemist with Rohm & Haas - drilled into me: Painting is all about surface prep. lovely paint won’t last, but even the best paint will peel quickly without proper surface prep.
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Aug 19, 2018 22:31
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:You should be doing this regardless of which room you're in. The kitchen just needs more cleaning. I've always used TSP for cleaning walls prior to painting. PainterofCrap posted:I sprayed ZEP orange degreaser; let it stand; wipe down; repeat until clean. Then, wipe everything down with trisodium phosphate. Yeah I figured. Never used TSP before but I am scrubbing the ceiling right now with a basic soap / vinegar solution. It is both noticeably cleaner already and I am finding all the places they missed with the wall colored paint.
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Aug 19, 2018 23:04
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tactlessbastard posted:Oh, the sales director says it's good huh I’ve had more than one house painter tell me that too. If I couldn’t use Benjamin Moore for whatever reason I’d use Sherman Williams but the stuff from Home Depot and Lowe’s is straight up a waste of money. Behr especially but I’ve never tried the ultra premium cause the regular stuff is so bad.
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Aug 20, 2018 00:08
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tactlessbastard posted:Oh, the sales director says it's good huh Well, I mean he's worked at both companies, so he'd have a pretty good inside viewpoint, and if something was junk he'd tell me.
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Aug 20, 2018 01:15
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I used Benjamin Moore Aura on the exterior of my house. Went on extremely easily (1 coat, no primer) and it’s held up perfectly for 2 years now. Water beads off it really well. I’m guessing I’ll get 10 or more years out of it. I decided to paint my house myself so I figured I might as well buy the most expensive paint I could in an effort to have it last the longest. Well worth the $750 imo.
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Aug 20, 2018 03:51
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Oh, I agree, just joking y'all
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Aug 20, 2018 05:11
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Different topic: I give my dog baths in my shower stall. Sometimes he has fine sand in his fur, from going to the beach. Most of it stays in the shower stall instead of washing down the drain, and I can clean it out afterwards, but presumably at least some is going down the drain. How big a deal is this? Obviously I don't want the drain to clog, but I'd guess a small quantity of sand will just eventually get washed down to the sewer main. But if that doesn't happen, is there some kind of sand trap I can install in the shower drain to catch the sand? It's pretty fine-grained stuff.
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Aug 20, 2018 05:24
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Different topic: I give my dog baths in my shower stall. Sometimes he has fine sand in his fur, from going to the beach. Most of it stays in the shower stall instead of washing down the drain, and I can clean it out afterwards, but presumably at least some is going down the drain. How big a deal is this? Obviously I don't want the drain to clog, but I'd guess a small quantity of sand will just eventually get washed down to the sewer main. But if that doesn't happen, is there some kind of sand trap I can install in the shower drain to catch the sand? It's pretty fine-grained stuff. I can tell you from having had a saltwater tank that sand does eventually accumulate enough in the trap of the drain to become an issue. Mine was in a sink, so I was able to remove the trap and clear it. I imagine if it became an issue, a good plunger-ing of your shower would be enough to take care of it though since it's not a solid mass.
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Aug 20, 2018 12:11
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H110Hawk posted:I realized this room is the most greasy due to cooking, we fry stuff frequently. Should I be cleaning the walls and ceiling prior to application? If so, what are people's opinions on what to use? I wanted to add to the other suggestions that if the grease is like a thick, sticky enamel that doesn't come off with any amount of industrial degreaser, to scrub it with oil first, then use your degreaser. The last time I cleaned my kitchen cabinets, the ones above the stove were covered decade-old grease and I ended up using olive oil. It released the plasticized oil with way less labor then any solvent alone would've required.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:08
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Shame Boner posted:I wanted to add to the other suggestions that if the grease is like a thick, sticky enamel that doesn't come off with any amount of industrial degreaser, to scrub it with oil first, then use your degreaser. The last time I cleaned my kitchen cabinets, the ones above the stove were covered decade-old grease and I ended up using olive oil. It released the plasticized oil with way less labor then any solvent alone would've required. Thankfully ours was not that gross, but I know what you're talking about. When we originally moved to CA the house my parents bought was like that.  The turbo-stupid exhaust fan that was in the middle of the gas stovetop (and thus sucked the heat out with it, flames would lick into it if the burner and the fan were on high. This both made it hard to cook and likely dangerous.) was filled with grease. This is not an exaggeration, it had nearly 0 airflow until my dad scooped out the entire pipe into a bucket.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:14
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The wax ring in my downstairs toilet has been leaking for a while, unbeknownst to me until yesterday when it got worse and I heard it dripping on the ceiling in a finished portion of my basement. I replaced the wax ring (used one of those green rubber seals, worked great, highly recommend) and its no longer leaking. I cut away the ceiling around the drain and removed all the damaged drywall I can. Since its been leaking (not a ton) for a while, there is some black mold up there. Other than cutting away what I can, what do I do about areas I can't get to to kill the mold? i know bleach isn't enough. Complicating matters it looks like when this room was finished, they framed around the sewer pipe so its surrounded by wood strapping of sorts, which would make removing everything around this damage a massive project. e: I think this is the stuff recommended before? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UVGHQK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 opengl fucked around with this message at 19:43 on Aug 20, 2018 |
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Aug 20, 2018 18:26
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Shame Boner posted:I wanted to add to the other suggestions that if the grease is like a thick, sticky enamel that doesn't come off with any amount of industrial degreaser, to scrub it with oil first, then use your degreaser. The last time I cleaned my kitchen cabinets, the ones above the stove were covered decade-old grease and I ended up using olive oil. It released the plasticized oil with way less labor then any solvent alone would've required. I thought my mom was nuts when she suggested this, but it seriously works. I used vegetable oil instead, but yeah, it loosens up any of the grease on the cabinet and wipes off without much elbow grease. Just make sure once you get the heavy stuff off you go back and clean the vegetable oil off the cabinets.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:33
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Anyone ever DIY’d self-leveling underlayment? We just poured 12 bags over 600sqft, mixing in 5 gallon buckets. There was a lot of variability in consistency due to the small batches, and the wetter areas are drying a chalky white. I’m hoping this is just cosmetic effervescence. It’s also still pretty soupy after 6 hours despite the bags claiming “walkable in 4,” but maybe the rain outside is adding to the humidity? Anyone calm my worries that I just wasted $600 in materials?
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Aug 20, 2018 20:06
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H110Hawk posted:If it's already poo poo the bed at 5 years either you have comically hard water, that was the literal cheapest thing the supplier has, or both. there wolf posted:it's in a rental H110Hawk posted:I realized this room is the most greasy due to cooking, we fry stuff frequently. Should I be cleaning the walls and ceiling prior to application? If so, what are people's opinions on what to use?
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Aug 20, 2018 22:56
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eddiewalker posted:Anyone ever DIY’d self-leveling underlayment? We just poured 12 bags over 600sqft, mixing in 5 gallon buckets. We found there's a bunch of variety in the coloring, you can definitely tell where the different batches ended up. We also ended up with some white chalky stuff on the surface. I don't exactly remember drying times, but it's definitely based on how thick of a pour you did. The thicker areas took quite some time to cure.
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Aug 20, 2018 23:30
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I'm going to have to dig up and replace my sewer line from the house to the street because root intrusions are blocking it at least once a year now. Problem is, the line runs right under the nicest part of my yard, any tips on preserving the grass and having everything flat again after I dig up that porous iron piece of poo poo and lay in an equal size PVC pipe?
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Aug 21, 2018 00:17
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We used to have our clay sewer line clog up about once a year with roots then we started using Root-X and haven’t had it happened since. Delaying the inevitable but not really something I want to pay for right now.
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Aug 21, 2018 00:55
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The Dave posted:We used to have our clay sewer line clog up about once a year with roots then we started using Root-X and haven’t had it happened since. Delaying the inevitable but not really something I want to pay for right now. It's worth a shot, I'm not looking forward to digging that bastard out.
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Aug 21, 2018 01:28
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The Dave posted:We used to have our clay sewer line clog up about once a year with roots then we started using Root-X and haven’t had it happened since. Delaying the inevitable but not really something I want to pay for right now. Seconding this. We had a real issue with this in the condo we rented (think 2-3 times a year.) root-x solved it all.
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Aug 21, 2018 02:11
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Hello, I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but I looked around a bit and don't really see where else I can post it. Anyway, does anybody know what brand/make/model my doorhinges (is that the correct term?) are? Here are some pics I took of them.    You can see the complete hinge in the first pic (minus the coverplate), the thing I can just take out in the second pic and the way they're connected to my door in the last pic. There's no name on them and I've been looking around the net without much results. One brand I came across was Dr. Hahn but I've already confirmed mine are not Dr. Hahns. So does anybody know some other brands that I can look into? I don't want to completely redo the stuff that bolts in the walls (I'm bad with names for things).
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Aug 21, 2018 17:00
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shut up blegum posted:Hello, I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but I looked around a bit and don't really see where else I can post it. Is there any branding or serial number plates on the door? Those hinges look custom to that style of door. Check the edges of the door or the doorframe for a plate or sticker with a company name.
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Aug 21, 2018 17:17
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shut up blegum posted:Hello, I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but I looked around a bit and don't really see where else I can post it. That is something proprietary. You'll need to talk with the door manufacturer.
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Aug 21, 2018 17:26
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shut up blegum posted:Hello, I'm not sure if this is the right thread, but I looked around a bit and don't really see where else I can post it. I'm not familiar with the style of hinge. Your best bet is probably to take measurements and just look around at hinges that look matching with a search for "UPVC hinges" and the measurements. Or just scour sites that have those style hinges and hoping to find the right one. It's tough to track down the exact part without a name. Did you look on the spine of the door on the hinge side?
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Aug 21, 2018 17:49
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Yeah, thanks for the suggestions everyone. I only found one name on the door frame, and that was Winkhaus. Looking at their site, it seems more like they are a lock firm. Anyways, I'll look around some more, maybe it's on the top for some dumb reason? Never thought something like this would be so hard to find tbh. EDIT:  I am an idiot. I took some tiny plastic caps of the hinges and now I see that there's a miniature elephant on them. That'll guide me in the right direction. Still seems hard to find though!EDIT 2: seems like they are called Junior Elephant hinges.   I can only find them on shady Eastern European sites though, seems like the contractor that renovated my house bought a ton of stuff from there and brought it here. Still, I'll contact some sites and see what I can do. shut up blegum fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 17:51
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