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Rhaegar posted:Fantastic. Both the Cawl and the terrain. What was your technique for the terrain? I’m about to start mine. I'm curious about that as well. That looks like... brown on the walls, blue on the metal, and then possibly different washes on each (or just a wash on the metal), and then an all-over drybrush with a light warm grey or cream?
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Aug 19, 2018 22:24
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah no offense man, but I agree with this. Stop theory-painting and stressing about doing it perfectly or whatever. JUST PAINT. It's fun and good and the more you do the better you'll get, promise. Bucnasti posted:Acquiring new things to paint is the easiest part of this hobby, you are going to have a huge backlog before you know it so stop thinking about painting and just start painting. Don't worry about color matching or consistency, just start laying down different colors and seeing how they work. Mix paint together on the pallets and see how the colors interact. Try different types of brushes and different techniques. When you're done, take some pics to track your progress, then drop them in some stripper and do it all again. The only way to get better at painting is to just paint. Sorry. I guess it's just that I fret about jumping ahead to something that's really difficult, and messing up on it. I know you can strip it, but I'd rather just work forward and have the ones I messed up on serve as a milestone. I'm more worried about messing up the assembly, since the first Space Marine I did ended up with a bobble-head because I messed up with the super-glue. Anyway, I did go ahead and paint, and the orcs and Guardians are done.       There are some mistakes, and I forgot to apply a shade to some of the swords, but I think the orcs came out really nice. The Guardians are unshaded, and the Naggaroth Night color for the helmet on the alternate color one ended up being too dark for what I intended. I also think I didn't thin it real well when doing the helmets. I still need to base them.
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Aug 19, 2018 22:29
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Rhaegar posted:Fantastic. Both the Cawl and the terrain. What was your technique for the terrain? I’m about to start mine. Stephenls posted:I'm curious about that as well. That looks like... brown on the walls, blue on the metal, and then possibly different washes on each (or just a wash on the metal), and then an all-over drybrush with a light warm grey or cream? Thanks, painting them was extremely simple. I basically followed the guide on Warhammer TV. The metals don't look quite so blue in person, as the LEDs I used to light the photos tend to give things a bit of a bluish hue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEAA9PhxZ-s Which boils down to: 1. Base Zandri Dust 2. Drybrush the stone with Ushabti Bone. 3. Wash the stone with Agrax Earthshade 4. Paint the metals Leadbelcher 5. Wash the metals with Agrax Earthshade, and then with Nuln Oil 6. Drybrush the metals with Necron Compound 7. Light drybrush everything with Screaming Skull For the full Sector Imperials terrain, there's also details on the flooring and golden metals in that video, but the six pieces I painted didn't have any of those details.
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Aug 20, 2018 01:01
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Drive-by cross posting! Groetgaffel posted:My Eschtachan project slowly continues, and I just finished two Company Commanders.
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Aug 20, 2018 01:06
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I just opened up the Primaris Intercessors, and I found out they have transfer sheet in them. I haven't done any of those yet. Do you need anything special for them, or can you just stick them on?
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Aug 20, 2018 08:53
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Max Wilco posted:I just opened up the Primaris Intercessors, and I found out they have transfer sheet in them. https://youtu.be/RIA-EdSUuFE
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Aug 20, 2018 09:07
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I tend to use white vinegar for adhering transfers. Duncan's video goes over the basics of it, namely gloss-coat first, but instead of water on the glossed area I use vinegar. The acidity of it helps dissolve the translucent areas a bit, making for a smoother look overall (and stronger too, I feel).
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Aug 20, 2018 14:55
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If you feel like it, go get a bottle of micro-sol and use it along with white vinegar like Slimnoid suggested. Gloss coat first, soak your transfer in a little water, paint some vinegar onto the model and slide the transfer from the paper backing onto the model. Position it with the side of a brush, dab away the excess liquid and then dab a couple drops of micro-sol over the top. Put it aside for 15 minutes, then check out how it looks. If it's wrinkly, dab a little more micro-sol over the top. The micro-sol will melt the transfer and get it to conform to the shape of the model, really great for shoulder pads and other awkward shapes that the decal doesn't naturally fit onto.
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Aug 20, 2018 16:34
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There's also the nuclear option of using Solvaset, if you absolutely want to glue that motherfucker of a decal down.
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Aug 20, 2018 17:27
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Kill team's small model count has given me hope of someday finishing a playable force, so I finally got around to finishing my tacticool Primaris sized scout.  Obviously a lot of rough edges there, but I'm learning a lot. I think I'm going to cast a torso and some bits when going for a whole squad. And just use Reiver legs, recasting them is too much hassle. Also forgot to finish his bolt pistol i see 
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Aug 20, 2018 20:06
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Duct Tape posted:Belisarius Cawl, the model that drew me into Adeptus Mechanicus, is finally done! Also wrapped up six pieces of ruins terrain. Seconding this Cawl looking amazing. Mind sharing the metals and the red recipes?
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Aug 21, 2018 10:55
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Genghis Cohen posted:Quick question for the experts on here: can I paint metallics over a grey primer? I know it is unworkable over white , but I've never really primed anything but black before. Wait what? I have never heard this "no metallic over white" thing before. I paint metal over white all the time and it looks....metallic, like I would expect it to.
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Aug 21, 2018 14:02
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It depends on the specific metallic paint and its pigment content etc. Some metallics are terrible and need to go over certain colours or they don't show up properly.
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Aug 21, 2018 14:10
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Harkano posted:Seconding this Cawl looking amazing. Mind sharing the metals and the red recipes? Thanks! A couple posts above yours for the metals on the terrain. The metals on Cawl himself are simply Leadbelcher + Nuln Oil or Retributor Armor + Nuln Oil. For Cawl's cloak, I followed the same steps as my Skitarii cloaks, with an additional edge highlight of Fire Dragon Bright along the very tips. Duct Tape posted:I've had a couple people ask how I paint my Skitarii cloaks. So I threw together this to show exactly how I do it.
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Aug 21, 2018 19:09
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Anyone have experience with Green Stuff World's textured rolling pins for making custom bases? I'm looking at their Factory Ground or Double Diamond for Genestealer Cult and some custom objective markers, as well as Alien Hive for Tyranid (someday). I love the idea of being able to roll out custom bases that look consistent between models. However, aside from their promo pictures, I can't find too many pictures or videos of people using them for mini bases, and haven't found any that really inspire the sense of "I need to build and paint that one".
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Aug 21, 2018 20:00
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Duct Tape posted:Anyone have experience with Green Stuff World's textured rolling pins for making custom bases? I'm looking at their Factory Ground or Double Diamond for Genestealer Cult and some custom objective markers, as well as Alien Hive for Tyranid (someday). I'd probably just buy some diamond tread plasticard instead of that diamond tread roller. While their rollers are OK, I feel like your best solution if you want custom bases that are consistent and don't cost as much as resin bases you should take your time building 10 or 15 bases, then cast them yourself.
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Aug 21, 2018 20:12
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Duct Tape posted:Anyone have experience with Green Stuff World's textured rolling pins for making custom bases? I'm looking at their Factory Ground or Double Diamond for Genestealer Cult and some custom objective markers, as well as Alien Hive for Tyranid (someday). I use the Egyptian textured rolling pin from GSW. It's great. Here's a few bases I used Sculpey III and the rolling pin for.    And not a base, but the rolling pin was used 
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Aug 21, 2018 20:31
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I've had bad luck layering cloaks, maybe I'll give drybrushing a chance.
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Aug 21, 2018 20:57
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Wonder if that's why my metallic silver goes over anything, but my metallic black needs a black coat first or it ends up looking like a metallic wash?
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Aug 21, 2018 21:02
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Happy Seppuku's stamps are also pretty good and cheap if you just want to do basic textures.
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Aug 21, 2018 22:39
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MasterSlowPoke posted:I've had bad luck layering cloaks, maybe I'll give drybrushing a chance. Thin your paints down to the point where they're basically glazes, and wet blend with flow retarder. That's how I do mine.
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Aug 22, 2018 00:04
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Arson Fire posted:Took a bit longer than I originally planned, but I finished my second box of custodes. Custodes that aren't just Goldar from the Power Rangers look drat good
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Aug 22, 2018 00:11
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Finished my first Reiver for Kill Team. 1 more and then another Intercessor for NOVA needed.  
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Aug 22, 2018 02:02
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bonds0097 posted:Finished my first Reiver for Kill Team. 1 more and then another Intercessor for NOVA needed. I didn’t even realize Prince Valiant was a Lamenter...
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Aug 22, 2018 02:04
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Got a piece of terrain flocked up for my jungle ruins themed kill team board.  The eventual plan is to fill an entire kill team sized board with darkened water effects, slime it up like swamp water, then use the assorted terrain pieces as ‘islands’ in the middle of a boggy swamp. Working on a ruined temple section right now, and also a couple shipping containers that will be sanded down at an angle so it looks like they’re slowly sinking into the muck. As this is going be to personal terrain for a very small model count game, I’m thinking I can use somewhat delicate stuff like Spanish moss in trees and lots of reeds and water grass on the terrain without worrying about randos mashing it to bits with their elephant fingers moving around 500 pewter orks.
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Aug 22, 2018 02:31
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Do you guys use commercial airbrush cleaning solution (like Iwata), or do you use an alternative like windshield wiper fluid?
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Aug 22, 2018 03:36
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I stand by Mr. Hobby Burnt Iron as a base coat for metals. It's a nice darker end metallic, light enough to go up from with glazes and dark enough to work as a base for lower-pigment metals.
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Aug 22, 2018 04:53
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Do you guys use commercial airbrush cleaning solution (like Iwata), or do you use an alternative like windshield wiper fluid? Iwata is cheap enough and in a good bottle.
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Aug 22, 2018 05:37
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Do you guys use commercial airbrush cleaning solution (like Iwata), or do you use an alternative like windshield wiper fluid? I bought two big bottles of airbrush cleaner when I got my first airbrush, I'm about halfway through the first one. If I ever run out I'm going to switch to isopropyl alcohol, which is basically what the name brand cleaners are made of.
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Aug 22, 2018 06:00
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Badablack posted:The eventual plan is to fill an entire kill team sized board with darkened water effects, slime it up like swamp water, then use the assorted terrain pieces as ‘islands’ in the middle of a boggy swamp.
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Aug 22, 2018 06:13
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WIP of my warlord. Needs a final varnish coat, basing, and maybe some pigments around the feet. Currently leaning towards some tizca style basing like in the warhammer world burning of prospero diorama.
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Aug 22, 2018 06:57
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So it looks like GW munitorum varnish has loving wrecked the 9 termagants I was slowly painting over the last two weeks. I'm really disappointed because I was really happy with the way they looked and tbh since they're plastic troops it's not like they really needed the varnish anyway. Not sure where I went wrong. Can was shaken for a good 5mins, humidity 60%, can was 8ish inches, short bursts. Did not think I was applying too much either, but watched them grey up in front of my eyes anyway Any advice to bring them back? I've read a lot of ways from spraying again, painting on a matte coat,rubbing with olive oil (not sure if this was a troll or not).
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Aug 22, 2018 08:15
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Spray a gloss coat over the affected areas.
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Aug 22, 2018 09:44
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What's the airbrush recipe for spraying Vallejo gloss varnish? Equal parts water and varnish? I've finally managed to get candy-coating looking the way I want, so now I want to make sure it's durable.
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Aug 22, 2018 11:04
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I just blast it through straight, no dilution, 35-40psi.
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Aug 22, 2018 12:18
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Do you guys use commercial airbrush cleaning solution (like Iwata), or do you use an alternative like windshield wiper fluid? I've been using 90% rubbing alcohol for the past month or two and it's worked fine. Granted, it's only marginally cheaper than branded airbrush cleaner, so YMMV. glitchkrieg posted:What's the airbrush recipe for spraying Vallejo gloss varnish? Equal parts water and varnish? I also do my varnish straight. You could go fairly light and let it dry between coats if you want to be really sure it's not going to fog, but I've only had that issue with my matte varnishes.
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Aug 22, 2018 13:32
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Booley posted:WIP of my warlord. Needs a final varnish coat, basing, and maybe some pigments around the feet. Currently leaning towards some tizca style basing like in the warhammer world burning of prospero diorama. Jesus, that's nice.
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Aug 22, 2018 15:18
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X-posting my Kill Team: 
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Aug 22, 2018 15:46
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re: airbrush cleaning, I have a bottle of the vellejo stuff and then a bottle of just plain water. 90% of flushing everything out can just be done with the water (also between colours) and then save the pricy stuff for the end to get it properly clean Also rad mans on the last couple of pages, good job everyone
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Aug 22, 2018 16:56
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Yeah, I got a big bottle of the Vallejo stuff and I give the brush a squirt of that, hose it out with water, and then a little bit more of the Vallejo to finish the job.
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Aug 22, 2018 17:37
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