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Booley posted:You'll need to make the graphics yourself, but these guys seem to do a good job printing. Their sheets are more expensive than fallout but also way bigger. Can vouch for the quality of badlam decals, supposedly they'll create your artwork for you at an additional cost.
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Aug 15, 2018 20:48
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Bucnasti posted:Can vouch for the quality of badlam decals, supposedly they'll create your artwork for you at an additional cost. Glad to know they're quality since I'll be going to them for titanicus decals soon. What was their turnaround time?
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Aug 15, 2018 22:54
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Booley posted:Glad to know they're quality since I'll be going to them for titanicus decals soon. What was their turnaround time? I'd have to check my emails but I think it was like ten days maybe two weeks at the most, Josh responded to my initial request within hours on a weekend and had me a proof like 4-5 days later. The sheet is enormous, like 2.5 times the size of the decal sheet that came in the renegade box set. The only thing is that the decals are not separated on the sheet like the GW decals are so you have to carefully cut them out your self if you have tight fitting spots to place them.
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Aug 16, 2018 02:16
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What size is the black knob on the 105?
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Aug 16, 2018 05:46
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What size is the black knob on the 105? 0.35 iirc
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Aug 16, 2018 06:22
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What would you recommend for a wash or ink on this? I already tried Army Painter green ink on another and it looked like poo poo. Maybe my bottle is bad. 
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Aug 16, 2018 16:07
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Cross posting from the WH49k thread, my conversion and paint job for the best character in 40k, Merek Grimaldus  
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Aug 16, 2018 16:13
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Finally finished these boys up!           What I learned:
Any C+C is welcome, especially photography tips! I am using a home-made light box and pixel 2, but I still feel like I could do a better job. Next project is a squad of Death Company. For those guys I'm planning on trying out some layering techniques I picked up from this Kujo painting vid. We'll see how it goes.
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Aug 16, 2018 16:36
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Cat Face Joe posted:What would you recommend for a wash or ink on this? I already tried Army Painter green ink on another and it looked like poo poo. Maybe my bottle is bad. Ink by itself isn't designed to function like a wash. You'd want to water it down more and add a flow improver, Future, or just a brushtip touch or so of liquid dish soap. That should allow it to flow into just the low areas better.
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Aug 16, 2018 16:43
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Ink is just liquid pigment. Washes are pigment, medium, and flow improver. When people say Army Painter washes, they are talking about their line of Quickshade Washes.
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Aug 16, 2018 17:46
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Just did this Grave Robber from Darkest Dungeon. It's a fan made thing so not the best sculpt, especially the face, but I think it turned out pretty good.
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Aug 16, 2018 17:56
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darnon posted:Ink by itself isn't designed to function like a wash. You'd want to water it down more and add a flow improver, Future, or just a brushtip touch or so of liquid dish soap. That should allow it to flow into just the low areas better. dexefiend posted:Ink is just liquid pigment. 
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Aug 16, 2018 18:40
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I make my own washes with Liquitex flow improver, water and fountain pen ink. A 6:6:1 ratio of tends to get me where I need to be, but I tend to wash pretty dark.
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Aug 16, 2018 19:38
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Working on a Reaper Bones Khanjira. For the final matte varnish should I use Dullcote or brush on varnish (Liquitex probably)? I hit it with Krylon acrylic spray between base coat and highlighting, and it’s a little tacky now. Want to be sure the final varnish coat isn’t sticky and I know Bones is a weird thing sometimes.
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Aug 16, 2018 20:28
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Army Painter Inks are more about 'glaze' concentration so don't need to dilute them a lot. The Scale 75 Inktensity ones I picked up are nuclear strength by comparison.
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Aug 16, 2018 20:28
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Mikey Purp posted:
You definitely don't want gloss, satin is what you're after, it's in between the two
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Aug 16, 2018 21:59
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head58 posted:Working on a Reaper Bones Khanjira. For the final matte varnish should I use Dullcote or brush on varnish (Liquitex probably)? I hit it with Krylon acrylic spray between base coat and highlighting, and it’s a little tacky now. Want to be sure the final varnish coat isn’t sticky and I know Bones is a weird thing sometimes. I'd probably hit it with a gloss first, to kind of bring it to a "default" state before varnishing it. That usually gets rid of the tackiness. I have no idea how well a lacquer works on Bones models. So to be on the safe side, probably go with Liquitex, especially if you have an airbrush; if you're dead-set on Dullcote though, test it on a cheap Bones model first to see how it reacts.
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Aug 17, 2018 01:37
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Buddy got some kickstarter with literally a million trillion Dwarves from Scibor. He let me pick one out for my Dwarf Paladin I'm playing. So here he is. He was supposed to have a sword (I think?) - the baggie had like 2089482 weapons, but I got the maul from a weapon sprue where the hands line up. This left him with an empty sword scabbard, so I used a sword from another mini that came with multiple weapons and just happened to have a sword that I didn't use for him, and it magically fit the scabbard size, so I snipped the blade off. It took me about 10 hours to paint. Probably one of my quickest. I just got into the zone with this dude and had a blast the entire time. He's meant for tabletop so he'll be under a few layers of varnish shortly.  
Philthy fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Aug 17, 2018 |
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Aug 17, 2018 04:15
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Philthy posted:Buddy got some kickstarter with literally a million trillion Dwarves from Scibor. He let me pick one out for my Dwarf Paladin I'm playing. So here he is. He was supposed to have a sword (I think?) - the baggie had like 2089482 weapons, but I got the maul from a weapon sprue where the hands line up. This left him with an empty sword scabbard, so I used a sword from another mini that came with multiple weapons and just happened to have a sword that I didn't use for him, and it magically fit the scabbard size, so I snipped the blade off. It took me about 10 hours to paint. Probably one of my quickest. I just got into the zone with this dude and had a blast the entire time. He's meant for tabletop so he'll be under a few layers of varnish shortly.  Larger photos, please.
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Aug 17, 2018 13:11
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I painted another orc last night, save for the shield. Tried painting his shirt yellow, which went about as well as I expected. Doesn't look great, but looks okay (I'll try to post a photo later). All that leaves is one unpainted orc, along with another bunch of other small, minor details I need to do on the other minis, along with the shading. The big thing is getting doing their teeth and their eyes, and for the teeth, I don't know what color would work best (I'm guessing a bone color). With the Guardians, I feel like I need a red shade for their armor. Still thinking about going and getting the Start Collecting Blood Angels box, along with a can of Mephiston Red. I think I'd save myself a lot of time and effort by doing the priming and base painting at once, so I can focus more on the details. At the same time, it occurs to me that I need to also have a jar of the Mephiston Red to touch up any mistakes, and that doing a brush on coat is necessary to get a consistent texture.  If I was going to go that route, I was also considering getting some poster tack to wrap on the push-joints, so I can paint all the pieces separately, then assemble them. I don't know for sure, though if the Getting Started kit are push-fit, though. So far, I've not had any mini kits that I've been required to glue together. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Aug 18, 2018 |
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Aug 18, 2018 10:18
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Max Wilco posted:I painted another orc last night, save for the shield. Tried painting his shirt yellow, which went about as well as I expected. Doesn't look great, but looks okay (I'll try to post a photo later). All that leaves is one unpainted orc, along with another bunch of other small, minor details I need to do on the other minis, along with the shading. The big thing is getting doing their teeth and their eyes, and for the teeth, I don't know what color would work best (I'm guessing a bone color). With the Guardians, I feel like I need a red shade for their armor. Start Collecting are very much not push fit. My personal recommendation would be to pick a thing, watch Duncan videos for it and then get the paints he uses (listed in videos) and replicate his technique. That will help you get the fundamentals of thinning, basecoating, washing, layering and edge highlighting. Get the basics down then focus on details. If you can follow along and replicate Duncan's stuff, you will have a very solid base to work from. Also, then you're not spending time worrying about which paints to use and instead are focused on technique and improving your skills.
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Aug 18, 2018 11:26
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Quick question for the experts on here: can I paint metallics over a grey primer? I know it is unworkable over white, but I've never really primed anything but black before. Just need to know whether to lay down a black base coat under all the metal parts of the models which I am sitting down to paint now. Really should have primed them black! Citadel paints, if it makes any difference.
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Aug 18, 2018 14:34
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Genghis Cohen posted:Quick question for the experts on here: can I paint metallics over a grey primer? I know it is unworkable over white, but I've never really primed anything but black before. Yeah, you can. You might need to go over it in a few spots but it's totally doable.
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Aug 18, 2018 14:46
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God to know! Will report my progress.
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Aug 18, 2018 15:18
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So I'm still brainstorming an idea for a paint scheme for my Wytch cult for Killteam. One idea I have is having the leader have a split personality, represented by two different models. I was thinking one of the two basically being Harley Quinn. (because shut up) but I keep hitting this block of "I'm leaning towards making them wanna be Harliquins." Wytchs that laugh and whoop as they tear their opponents apart. But at that point why not just make an actual Harlequin team? Edit: I recently saw the most recent text to speech device and fell in love with French, aristricratic murder clown. BigRed0427 fucked around with this message at 15:43 on Aug 18, 2018 |
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Aug 18, 2018 15:37
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bonds0097 posted:Start Collecting are very much not push fit. Well, I was watching Duncan's video on painting the Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought last night, and it looks like that's part of the Easy-to-Build collection. It looks pretty neat, and it seems like it'd be a bit easier to paint in that it's a bit larger (well, maybe not easier, but I haven't done any kind of vehicle yet). As terrible as it might sound, I have also thought about doing some Ultramarine stuff, only because the blue color seems like it'd be easier to work with.
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Aug 18, 2018 20:42
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berzerkmonkey posted:
Sorry, those were quick cell photos. loving with my DLSR is the most aggravating poo poo ever. He is now unfortunately under two coats of lacquer which adds a more satin look and loses the S75 matte a bit. But! He can be used on the tabletop and people can manhandle him without issue.  
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Aug 18, 2018 21:00
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So I dropped by the GW store, but I chickened out on the Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought. I ended up getting a pack of the Space Marine Primaris Intercessors, along with some paints to finish up the other minis (Carroburg Crimson, Zandri Dust, Naggaroth Night). I'm also thinking next time I decide to buy something, I'm going to order it from GW's site. I don't know why, but whenever I go in there (mind you, this is the same store), the store manager just seems really unfriendly. I feel like I'm being a nuisance when asking questions. I could try a different GW store (I'm sure the staff aren't all like that), but the others around my area a lot farther away. I did get this neat little punch-out Titan standup for free, though. 
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Aug 19, 2018 02:44
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Max Wilco posted:Well, I was watching Duncan's video on painting the Primaris Redemptor Dreadnought last night, and it looks like that's part of the Easy-to-Build collection. It looks pretty neat, and it seems like it'd be a bit easier to paint in that it's a bit larger (well, maybe not easier, but I haven't done any kind of vehicle yet). Nothing wrong with Ultras. GuardianOfAsgard has some incredible looking 4th company dudes. I think you're too focused on details and minutiae atm. Sure, red is harder to basecoat than blue. Ultimately though, there are fundamental skills you need to pick up and the specific color scheme is going to matter much less than understanding proper paint consistency, brush control, washes, highlighting, etc.
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Aug 19, 2018 03:24
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bonds0097 posted:Nothing wrong with Ultras. GuardianOfAsgard has some incredible looking 4th company dudes. Yeah no offense man, but I agree with this. Stop theory-painting and stressing about doing it perfectly or whatever. JUST PAINT. It's fun and good and the more you do the better you'll get, promise.
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Aug 19, 2018 05:10
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Fyrbrand posted:Yeah no offense man, but I agree with this. Stop theory-painting and stressing about doing it perfectly or whatever. JUST PAINT. It's fun and good and the more you do the better you'll get, promise. Yeah, take it from someone who has spent years trying to find the perfect yellow for Imperial Fists, JUST PAINT. Always be painting. Even a badly painted model is a better result than an unpainted one.
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Aug 19, 2018 05:38
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The answer to the perfect yellow is now, and will always be, XF-3.
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Aug 19, 2018 06:00
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Belisarius Cawl, the model that drew me into Adeptus Mechanicus, is finally done! Also wrapped up six pieces of ruins terrain.   I was afraid to paint him for the longest time just cause he's go so many tiny details. But it turns out that he's a lot easier than I thought. Not really any more complicated than a Tech-Priest Dominus, just bigger.
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Aug 19, 2018 06:04
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Took a bit longer than I originally planned, but I finished my second box of custodes. 
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Aug 19, 2018 06:35
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Acquiring new things to paint is the easiest part of this hobby, you are going to have a huge backlog before you know it so stop thinking about painting and just start painting. Don't worry about color matching or consistency, just start laying down different colors and seeing how they work. Mix paint together on the pallets and see how the colors interact. Try different types of brushes and different techniques. When you're done, take some pics to track your progress, then drop them in some stripper and do it all again. The only way to get better at painting is to just paint.
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Aug 19, 2018 06:47
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First Cawdor Ganger, testing the colour scheme for the rest of them, pretty happy- I think the orange/green combo works pretty well.  
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Aug 19, 2018 08:42
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So, babby titans. How would people suggest basing 8mm models? The method I use for 40k models seems like it would look daft on such a difference scale.
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Aug 19, 2018 08:47
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I wouldn’t put too much detail on an 8mm base. You won’t be able to see any grass or rocks at that scale, so tamp down any flock and use super fine basing material.
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Aug 19, 2018 12:32
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Yeast posted:First Cawdor Ganger, testing the colour scheme for the rest of them, pretty happy- I think the orange/green combo works pretty well. This looks dope, good color combo.
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Aug 19, 2018 14:09
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Duct Tape posted:Belisarius Cawl, the model that drew me into Adeptus Mechanicus, is finally done! Also wrapped up six pieces of ruins terrain. Fantastic. Both the Cawl and the terrain. What was your technique for the terrain? I’m about to start mine.
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Aug 19, 2018 19:07
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