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spog posted:Also: one for the Brits - where do you get your spools of wire from? Nothignfancy, just what you'd use to plumb in a couple of LEDS, dashcam power supply, etc Vehicle Wiring Products as already mentioned. They sell every colour of wire and will sell you as little as 1m rather than making you buy 100m rolls as some places do. Reasonable postage prices too. They also sell of lot of general electrical items like switches and terminals, generally catering more to the classic car world. SimTek have a lot of the harder to find stuff like manufactuer-specific connectors and terminals for more modern stuff. PoleVolt is another good place for general wiring supplies. Sweevo fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 00:53
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Same question about wiring but for ‘Merka
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Aug 21, 2018 02:45
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Same question about wiring but for ‘Merka Waytek wire is a good start, but their minimums on wire start at 100'. I don't know any source for short wiring spools. EFIConnection does 10' pieces of TXL wire, so maybe that's closer to what you're looking for. I've never used them, but WireBarn does short TXL and GXL wire in a bunch of colors. They've even got assortment packs which look pretty good. You're paying a premium per foot, but if you only need 25 feet, a 250' spool is pretty wasteful. It you're doing anything outdoors or marine-related, I can't gush about GenuineDealz enough (and yes, their store name is terrible). Their pricing on marine wire and heat shrink terminals is superb, their battery cable building service is incredible (just pay for the terminals, wire, and heatshrink, plus $1/termination, and they'll strip, crimp, and heatshrink your cables), and shipping is always free. They've got a good selection of colored glue-lined heatshrink tubing too. sharkytm fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 04:16
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cakesmith handyman posted:Steal it from work? Good question and I'd like the answer too as I've never actually bought it, just robbed it off young junkyard cars and I'd like to actually build a thing in the near future. For me, wire is like pens, paperclips and those crappy '50 piece' screwdriver sets - I never buy them, they just appear in my drawers. Sweevo posted:Vehicle Wiring Products as already mentioned. They sell every colour of wire and will sell you as little as 1m rather than making you buy 100m rolls as some places do. Reasonable postage prices too. They also sell of lot of general electrical items like switches and terminals, generally catering more to the classic car world. What spec would you recommend as keeping for general automotive use: assuming it is for low currents such as sensors, LEDs, USB sockets, etc and not starter motors? mod sassinator posted:A thermocouple or temperature probe could be handy for measuring the temp of things like radiator, coolant, etc. Otherwise with everything being fancy digital interfaces and buses these days I can't imagine much more than a basic voltage, current, and maybe frequency measurement is all you need with a multimeter and car. I'd get a cheapo digital meter and put the saved money towards a nicer code reader, OBD/CAN bus interface, etc. InitialDave posted:Vehicle Wiring Products is probably a good place to start. Does that have an amp clamp?
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Aug 21, 2018 17:15
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spog posted:What spec would you recommend as keeping for general automotive use: assuming it is for low currents such as sensors, LEDs, USB sockets, etc and not starter motors? I use the thin wall stuff for everything. The thinnest (0.5mm^2) is rated for 11 amps, so that's fine for any sensors, USB, gauge wiring, and small lights. You only need to go for the bigger sizes once you start wiring up things with significant current draws like headlamps or fans.
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Aug 21, 2018 21:22
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spog posted:Anyone got any recommendations for an automotive multimeter? i.e. something that does something special that bog standard multimeters don't do? I've used kojjaycat a bunch to get connectors and cable for car/bike projects. https://kojaycat.co.uk/
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Aug 21, 2018 21:38
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Sweevo posted:Can anyone help identify this logo? An old Delta logo maybe?
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Aug 25, 2018 01:41
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spog posted:Does that have an amp clamp? This is the killer feature for me. I use a Fluke 36 and the DC clamp functionality has come in handy for quick diagnosis of slow drains and such. It's easy to start at the battery cable and quickly move downstream to find the culprit
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Aug 25, 2018 10:50
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Rectal Placenta posted:An old Delta logo maybe? I don't think so. I've seen lots of old Delta compressors at work, but never seen any with that logo.
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Aug 25, 2018 11:23
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Sweevo posted:I don't think so. I've seen lots of old Delta compressors at work, but never seen any with that logo. Is there a nameplate? Could be on the compressor or the tank. Or both. Better pictures would help.
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Aug 25, 2018 13:06
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EVERYWHERE 
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What do you figure is the best way to run 2 batteries in my car. Would there be too much resistance running marine terminals on both tying them together with 1 gauge cable and copper lugs, then a 1 gauge cable to the starter? e: how bad of an idea would it be to use this style of terminal, and crimp/solder it on it on to a stripped section of a longer wire. 
Powershift fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Aug 25, 2018 |
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Aug 25, 2018 23:45
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Powershift posted:What do you figure is the best way to run 2 batteries in my car. Marine for life. Those stamped things are satan's rear end in a top hat.
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Aug 26, 2018 00:34
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Gingerbread House Music posted:Marine for life. Those stamped things are satan's rear end in a top hat. Word. Those things maybe work fine if you only rarely disconnect/change your battery, but I've seen so many of those broken of metal fatigue, probably from just the wear of tightening/loosening them. I would never put one in myself unless it was literally the only thing I had available (including hose clamps). These things are pretty common at least around here:  The idea is you just strip the cable and clamp it down with that little metal plate. They work decently well and are possible to do a field-repair with as long as you can strip the cable insulation. Downside is the cable will eventually corrode allover and also easily have strands break off when the cable moves about. If you can get a ring terminal crimped on your cable, always go for that together with one of those marine/whatever terminals where you bolt the ring terminal down proper. Depending on where you mount it, you may want to get one with a regular bolt instead of that wingnut, for a bit lower profile. If the positive terminal touches the hood of your car during turns when the body flexes in just the right way, there is instant Electric Boogaloo.
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Aug 27, 2018 12:08
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I'd go marine terminals plus a crimped cable terminal. None of those clamp-on terminals work well. Why do you need/want a second battery? You might want to install an isolator between them.
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Aug 27, 2018 15:07
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What do y'all like on a die grinder for clearing rust when doing brake jobs? So for the face of the hub, and also inside the caliper where the ears of the pad ride.
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Aug 27, 2018 17:52
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sharkytm posted:I'd go marine terminals plus a crimped cable terminal. None of those clamp-on terminals work well. Because it's a big engine used for short trips in the dead of winter. I think i'm going to go with 1/0 welding cables and marine terminals because the cost is ultimately negligible and it will always be handy to have a big hammer crimper.
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Aug 27, 2018 18:28
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Powershift posted:Because it's a big engine used for short trips in the dead of winter. I thought a two battery system warranted adding an isolator as well to prevent overcharging and depleting both leaving you stranded too.
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Aug 27, 2018 19:44
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StormDrain posted:I thought a two battery system warranted adding an isolator as well to prevent overcharging and depleting both leaving you stranded too. Along with extra ventilation to prevent explosions and/or poisoning
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Aug 27, 2018 19:54
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Powershift posted:What do you figure is the best way to run 2 batteries in my car. https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/battery-terminals
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Aug 27, 2018 19:58
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ionn posted:...Depending on where you mount it, you may want to get one with a regular bolt instead of that wingnut, for a bit lower profile. If the positive terminal touches the hood of your car during turns when the body flexes in just the right way, there is instant Electric Boogaloo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J9NnP1IMmZY
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Aug 27, 2018 20:45
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Are the Harbor Freight jack stands any good? On one hand, a giant hunk of metal shouldn't be difficult to do well, on the other hand I really don't want it to give out while I'm under the car.
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Aug 27, 2018 21:15
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Powershift posted:Because it's a big engine used for short trips in the dead of winter. The website name is terrible, but their cable is top-quality, and their terminations are done really nicely. Elbow terminals, heavy-wall lugs, glue-lined heatshrink, etc. Configure your cables, they'll make them and ship them for free. If you're serious about it, I'd have them make single-piece cables with flag terminals: http://www.genuinedealz.com/battery-terminal-flag-copper-tinned-positive-1-0-awg We re-did our research boat's 3-battery setup with their cables, and it came out really nicely. All 3 grounds were tied together, then the starting battery and house batteries were separated with an isolator and combination switch. Also, a second battery will help, but your diesel will hate short trips for lots of other reasons, namely the oil never getting to temp. You'd be smart to do a 30-minute drive once a week. My Duramax came with dual batteries, which is nice. opengl128 posted:What do y'all like on a die grinder for clearing rust when doing brake jobs? So for the face of the hub, and also inside the caliper where the ears of the pad ride. Brown/Maroon Roloc Disc, all the way.
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Aug 27, 2018 21:16
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the Harbor Freight jack stands any good? On one hand, a giant hunk of metal shouldn't be difficult to do well, on the other hand I really don't want it to give out while I'm under the car. The big 6 ton and small 1.5 ton cast aluminum ones have been solid for me.
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Aug 27, 2018 21:17
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Are the Harbor Freight jack stands any good? On one hand, a giant hunk of metal shouldn't be difficult to do well, on the other hand I really don't want it to give out while I'm under the car. I wouldn't trust their rating system, ie, don't trust that the 1.5 ton stands will hold 3000 lbs safely. Otherwise, they're probably fine.
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Aug 27, 2018 21:24
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Related question, do they mean weight for each or the pair? Total weight of the car or for half of it since you're only going to be lifting half the car with two stands? I'm currently using two 6 ton jack stands, but they're holding up the front end of a car I'm fixing soon™ E: For the record, I'm always in favor of using ridiculously high ratings on jack stands because I hate being under a car, it scares the poo poo out of me. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 21:31 on Aug 27, 2018 |
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Aug 27, 2018 21:28
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The 6 ton stands are great. Super tall and a big saddle instead of the little pinch weld notch that mangles rocker panels. And yeah, they're usually rated per pair, but way over-rating is obviously a good idea. Not just for weight capacity but for stability. I'd rather be under a car on 6 ton stands all the way down than anything smaller lifted up.
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Aug 27, 2018 22:46
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Related question, do they mean weight for each or the pair? Total weight of the car or for half of it since you're only going to be lifting half the car with two stands? Everyone I’ve seen was per pair, I recall it feeling really disingenuous.
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Aug 27, 2018 22:50
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StormDrain posted:I thought a two battery system warranted adding an isolator as well to prevent overcharging and depleting both leaving you stranded too. I think an isolator is only needed when you're separating the batteries or running 2 different types. This is a matched pair that never have been and never will be separated or drained seperately. sharkytm posted:Also, a second battery will help, but your diesel will hate short trips for lots of other reasons, namely the oil never getting to temp. You'd be smart to do a 30-minute drive once a week. My Duramax came with dual batteries, which is nice. My truck already has dual batteries. I'm doing this for the Lincoln which doesn't have a diesel..........yet.........
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Aug 27, 2018 23:04
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opengl128 posted:What do y'all like on a die grinder for clearing rust when doing brake jobs? So for the face of the hub, and also inside the caliper where the ears of the pad ride. Die grinder or angle grinder? If angle grinder, a wire wheel attachment. Cup style or disc style. Die grinder, beats the hell out of me. EVery die grinder I've seen, the RPMs are too high for anything like a wire wheel/sanding attachment.
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Aug 28, 2018 01:41
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Total weight of the car or for half of it since you're only going to be lifting half the car with two stands? A lot of jacks and stands are only rated for half the car's weight, you gotta watch out. 22 Eargesplitten posted:..I hate being under a car, it scares the poo poo out of me. it is the worst
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Aug 28, 2018 02:25
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If I was having a house custom-built I would no joke have them do a Jiffy-Lube style basement in the garage just so I would never have to lift the car unless I was doing tires/brakes/axles/whatever. I get that lifts are safe, but working with a hydraulic lift was terrifying too just because I was afraid the auto shop teacher would miss something when they came to check it out. I got a pair of the Harbor Freight 3-ton jacks so I can do my Camry's oil (I miss having a car that I didn't have to jack to do the oil), if I never post again I got crushed by Japanese steel due to Chinese craftsmanship.
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Aug 28, 2018 03:29
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Powershift posted:I think an isolator is only needed when you're separating the batteries or running 2 different types. This is a matched pair that never have been and never will be separated or drained seperately. Oh god. Do you already have a block heater? I know you’re competent with both cars and the cold but I’d just garage the Lincoln until the thaw comes to Alberta and ride the Ford all winter. Edit: earlier I was reading about some of the fancier isolators that prevent overcharging, not sure if that’s a concern or not. How does it work on the Powerstroke? StormDrain fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Aug 28, 2018 |
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Aug 28, 2018 04:01
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StormDrain posted:Oh god. Do you already have a block heater? I know you’re competent with both cars and the cold but I’d just garage the Lincoln until the thaw comes to Alberta and ride the Ford all winter. Our winter is 6 months long, and i can't stay out of it that long I only park it in the spring when there's dry gravel on paved roads. There are no isolators in dual or even quad battery diesels. Isolators are really only if one battery is being drawn down solo, which doesn't happen if they're tied in parallel. The batteries i'm using have threaded vent holes so it won't be too hard to rig up a couple vent lines. I REALLY want to put the powerstroke in the Lincoln, but need another pickup before i start tearing the F250 apart.
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Aug 28, 2018 04:21
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Powershift posted:
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Aug 29, 2018 04:13
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Looks like Sears has the 20pc ratcheting gearwrench set for $50 again.
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Aug 29, 2018 21:27
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El Jebus posted:Looks like Sears has the 20pc ratcheting gearwrench set for $50 again. Jesus, and you get $50 in bonus points to spend later. I don’t need them but also maybe I do?
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Aug 30, 2018 03:58
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StormDrain posted:Jesus, and you get $50 in bonus points to spend later. I don’t need them but also maybe I do? So it turns out what I really want was the stubby set anyway, which was $69.99. So I put it in my cart. Where they decided to also give me $20 off for fun. Ok great so now it's $49.99. Except then I don't get the bonus $50 in points to use later? I guess I can't combine them.... well what if I add this coffee mug sized bucket boss that I think is hilarious for $3? Oh cool now I get the bonus points that I'm going to use for a gearwrench 120xp ratchet. Except then they can't add a new credit card. Maybe it's a chrome problem, let's try Edge. that doesn't work. So I'll use paypal. What's the paypal password? no, no, no no no locked. OK I'll reset it. "new password was used too recently" *are you loving kidding me*. new password. Checkout. Back to the beginning again? choose payment? OK paypal again, now it works? HOW MANY WRENCHES DID I GET AND WAS SAVING $20 AND MAYBE GETTING A FREE RATCHET LATER WORTH IT? I am going to cry laugh when I get my tiny coffee mug bucketboss. I swear that took 20 minutes. edit: 
StormDrain fucked around with this message at 06:04 on Aug 30, 2018 |
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Aug 30, 2018 06:02
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I haven't ordered from Sears in forever (although everyday get emails, free points, bonus cash, etc.) but the Sears website is one of the biggest piles of poo poo in existence.
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Aug 30, 2018 13:18
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:I haven't ordered from Sears in forever (although everyday get emails, free points, bonus cash, etc.) but the Sears website is one of the biggest piles of poo poo in existence. Same here. I'll pay a little more to not have to deal with their idiotic policies, useless customer service, constant problems (failure to ship, lost shipments, lost pickups, etc), and general fuckery, especially with their website.
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Aug 30, 2018 14:34
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havent been back since i bought TWO of those glorious Gladiator 30" cabinets (the welded ones) that were on super sale for 99bux
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Aug 30, 2018 14:44
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