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Yeah, they're really picky about the parts. You also can't get an aftermarket GP relay, because 90% of them aren't actually right and short out to the mounting tabs. And don't get me started on the brilliant "valve-cover-gasket-cum-GP-harness" idea.
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Mar 2, 2018 18:26
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sharkytm posted:Yeah, they're really picky about the parts. You also can't get an aftermarket GP relay, because 90% of them aren't actually right and short out to the mounting tabs. I thought that was a 7.3 PSD thing, not a 7.3 idi thing. But yes, that's the dumbest poo poo.
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Mar 2, 2018 23:19
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sharkytm posted:Yeah, they're really picky about the parts. You also can't get an aftermarket GP relay, because 90% of them aren't actually right and short out to the mounting tabs. I'm super duper uninitiated with electrical poo poo in general. How would I go about using a multimeter to check if my new relay is hosed, and/or tell me if there's some way of closing the short. Talk to me like I'm an idiot baby, because I surely am. It's this one, from BWD. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...1989/ford/f-250 edit: just ponied up for the Beru ZD9s, we'll see what that does edit 2: I popped one into place, tightened down, checked resistance against the Dieselhub troubleshooting page, which says brand new Motorcraft ZD9s should read .3-.5 ohms, but I'm getting about .8 on the first one, and that's the best reading. It's pretty wildly inconsistent. The page says probe the tip of the plug and the top of the engine block near where the plug rests, and I get anything from .8 up to 160 ohms. Could be my 50 dollar meter though. edit 3: tentative lesson learned, all the Berus are in place. Relay cycles fully, no clicks. Still kinda wanna probe the mounting tabs on the new relay and see if they're leaking at all. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Mar 3, 2018 |
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Mar 2, 2018 23:42
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160 Ohm seems off for one glowplug. try using the alternator or some other bare metal. in a pinch the glowplug body or the battery negative lug will work but you're looking at different views of the electrical system. IDI glowplugs fail open-circuit, or short-circuit. Also listen to your engine when it starts, If you have dead glowplugs you know. You want no less than 8V at the glowplug. You can use voltage drop tests to find the bad section in your harness: You measure this while the system is cycling the plugs. multimeter in voltage mode, one lead to one terminal, the other lead to the other terminal. battery lug >> relay input terminal *** two 10Ga wires from the factory handle this, as well as fusible links. It all goes through a plastic connector . The connector melts with age. The Fusible links will create high voltage drop on failure*** relay input terminal >> relay output terminal(the one bolted to the busbar) (any drop greater than .3V is failure of the relay) (cheapies like to arc-weld on, add a disconnect or a way to uncouple power, Berus are tough) skip the busbar, but make sure the connections are clean. busbar terminal >> glowplug connector. Internally the glowplug harness has a couple branch connectors that *shouldnt* give you any problems. The ends are just red bullet connectors, spring for ones with heatshrink built in. (I didn't have a enough nice ones for my rebuild so I just used heatshrink over standard red connectors) 7.3PSDS have the oddball valvecover gaskets. 6.0s run the wiring through the rocker box. idis have nothing of the sort.
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Mar 4, 2018 00:04
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Anti-archival bump! Now that the rain is done for the season it's time for more farmtruck fixes. First project: stop the cab from crumbling. Both A-pillars on this truck have significant cracking where the panels are glued together (via adhesives/seam-sealer). The passenger side pillar sheet steel has shear tears which will have to be corrected sooner rather than later(can't replace the windscreen till this is done). I'm going to pull the dash and load a blunderbuss of fixes and aim it in its general direction: The tears will get drilled, weld, and possibly plated over with thin strap to reinforce it. The dash will come out so that I don't set the old-rear end insulation on fire(installing new insulation), and well while I'm in there I can reinforce the 30 year old dash structural supports if there's any damage. This is also a good time to finish lobotomizing the harness. (RABS wiring). while it's in a billion pieces, knocking out the passenger fender/door dents would be nice, it'll allow the door to properly be aligned. I'm between two different 3M products to repair the seams. 07333 which is a impact resistant structural adhesive, and 08115 which is a panel bonding adhesive. My hitch is that if the adhesive is too rigid it may tear the sheetsteel next to the bonding (this is occurring in the passenger pillar/firewall now), but 08115 is not designed for anything structural (not that the paper-thin steel is structural anyway) but should allow for some flexibility in the panels. It specifically warns against using it in structural elements (such as a-pillars). Maybe a combo of the two depending on location? My solution is generally plate and weld but that's not really appropriate yet. With this project would bring new cab bushings and the hell of replacing them. New tires are happening either on the first or around mid-month, with centramatic balancers. The improved glow-plug system has been *awesome* too.
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Apr 25, 2018 23:44
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Truck is gonna be a million times better than the factory made it and even then they are drat good trucks. Nice work.
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Apr 25, 2018 23:55
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JFYI guys - when measuring resistance of stuff like that, you're really pissing in the wind using a regular multimeter, even a good one. Probe wire resistance is often 0.2-0.3 ohms and you're trying to measure 0.3 to 0.5 ohms with it, it's like trying to measure differential shims with a yardstick. The only way you're really going to get a good measurement other than dead vs maybe-dead is with a milliohmmeter, the kind with 4-wire "Kelvin clip" probes.
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May 4, 2018 15:39
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kastein posted:JFYI guys - when measuring resistance of stuff like that, you're really pissing in the wind using a regular multimeter, even a good one. Probe wire resistance is often 0.2-0.3 ohms and you're trying to measure 0.3 to 0.5 ohms with it, it's like trying to measure differential shims with a yardstick. The only way you're really going to get a good measurement other than dead vs maybe-dead is with a milliohmmeter, the kind with 4-wire "Kelvin clip" probes. Yeah that's why CSB cited vdrop tests specifically, you're doing a lot better measuring the other end of Ohm's law when it comes to tiny resistances.
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May 5, 2018 02:24
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kastein posted:JFYI guys - when measuring resistance of stuff like that, you're really pissing in the wind using a regular multimeter, even a good one. Probe wire resistance is often 0.2-0.3 ohms and you're trying to measure 0.3 to 0.5 ohms with it, it's like trying to measure differential shims with a yardstick. The only way you're really going to get a good measurement other than dead vs maybe-dead is with a milliohmmeter, the kind with 4-wire "Kelvin clip" probes. Yeah, back in my old air con job we had that problem with inverter compressor motors. A regular meter (even a good fluke one) would read 0.9ohm while it's really 0.3ohm or something. Some techs had the add on milli-ohm meter or module that fieldpiece makes so they could properly measure the resistance.
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May 5, 2018 08:57
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Day 1: BUSHINGS. hood off  note the body spacers holding the core support. The battery tray nut-clips are *gone*. This is part of the problem.  Note the spacers on this side.  and into the meat:   Drivers' side cracks. this is all brittle rear end seam sealer that has taken a dump.  Passenger's side. The fender mount is acting like a lever here and tearing the body apart. The upside here is this is nowhere near as bad as initially thought, and it's all confined to the cowl, no need to pull the dash!  Underside. Spot welds have torn through.  Lower fender mount. The gaps didnt change during the cab-off shenanigans, it's mostly more cracked seam sealer. To lift the cab, first the tank has to be supported because Ford put the cab mount right over the tank strap:    2 weeks of PB soaking and a rattlegun later, these rusty fuckers came out. (I had planned to clean these up and reuse them as they're only .005 sockintons, but ruined one later in the day). I didn't bother disconnecting major systems to lift the cab which entailed the maximum lift to be a few inches. (which is also the highest the HF stands will go anyway)   Crusty front bushes. these came out fairly easy. They're laid with metal, and are pressed together at the factory. I cut em in half with the sawzmost.  and rear bushings. These fought me for six hours. (the slip-yoke anti-rust system is working perfectly as you can see)  All the conventional tricks proved fruitless. Sawzmost didn't really have adequate angles or room to even operate the tool. Using a prybar with the 10lb resulted in a bent prybar. Tried the all mighty air chisel and it too, was denied. Cue the diegrinder, I'm done negotiating. Dropped the front so that the brakelines and sector shaft wouldn't get harmed, lifted the rear of the cab until it bumped the air cleaner and went to town.  I win, bitch.  There's no hardware in yet, it sits 10mm higher at the moment. I need to do some exhaust repair while the cab is able to be lifted.  Cleaned some of the seam-sealer off, it' doesn't look quite as bad now.
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May 8, 2018 03:50
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New cab mounts are money and time well spent.
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May 8, 2018 08:12
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gently caress I hope I never have to do that on my truck. I mean it's just a babied garage queen half ton so probably not, but sheesh. Nice work csb.
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May 8, 2018 17:10
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Nice job, dude.
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May 8, 2018 18:09
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Slung Blade posted:gently caress I hope I never have to do that on my truck. You're probably safe, the family probably never hooked a tractor to it to yank it out of mudholes hillbilly style Which is the conclusion I and a friend came up with to explain the body damage. (the bumper suggests such too) Day 2: Cab went back up, exhaust cracks fixed. Said friend assisted on day 2 with the core support bushes and fender dents. I didn't bother to get pics of this.  drilled the cracks then filled with weld, then ground that down to ensure the cowl/trim fits properly.  The underside looks like rear end, but it'll be fine. this seam was plugfilled from the top too.    420 lay chickenshit errday Adhesives on. the black stuff is panel bonding, the gray/purple is the structural adhesive. (it's color changes during curing) Day 3: 3M's literature allows for heating the adhesive to speed curing. That was the first project for the morning since it was also below target temperature.    Driver's door had a little bit of play, so while it's accessible, might as well rebush that too!    4 coats primer, 3 coats of paint.  and reassembled. Entertaining 4.5mm average gap on the door/fender lines, ~6ish on the hood/fender lines. I'll probably have to change this to make sure no panel contact happens from being twisted up on non-level terrain. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ikq-4N6kYYI here's a time-lapse of the entire project. It's a really pleasant to drive vehicle now. All of the firewall popping is gone, the column no longer shakes (rubber isolator between the column/firewall shifted), the doors no longer bang going over potholes. NVH is increased a little at idle which is expected. Ride quality is in line for a 30 year old 1 ton truck.
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May 11, 2018 03:26
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Nice refresh work. Why did you use two different kinds of adhesives? Is the structural stuff too high-build for panels?
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May 11, 2018 19:43
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Forgive these potentially stupid questions but, how did you know this needed to be done? Can it be seen with the body panels on? And how does this happen? Is it just wear and tear or a sign of abuse?
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May 11, 2018 21:40
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Nice refresh work. Why did you use two different kinds of adhesives? Is the structural stuff too high-build for panels? I used the panel bonding where it wasn't directly structural and welding also wasn't appropriate (excessive gaps). The panel bonding is thicker and did bridge panel gaps better. The structural adhesive was used as a secondary support to welding to help distribute forces in that I'd rather panel deformation over tearing. Kastivich posted:Forgive these potentially stupid questions but, how did you know this needed to be done? Can it be seen with the body panels on? I found it in January when I replaced the wipermotor and had to remove the cowl. Some of the cracking was visible by looking forward of the door hinge with the door open, otherwise not really visible.  Here's a pic I took at the time. It looks a lot worse without wirewheel treatment. I wasn't going to replace the windshield without fixing it, I'd be so annoyed to hit a pothole and crack a brand new piece of glass. abuse. all of the abuse. It's an ex ranch/farm truck. Those guys are hell on the equipment These bodies' sheet steel is pretty thin and will generally start tearing apart in places like the pedal box. I don't recall ever seeing another brick with as many cracks and busted seams as mine but as mentioned earlier there are signs of someone yanking hard on the front bumper and there's mud all in the frame rails in places where mud normally doesn't get. (like in the x-member the rear cab bushes mount to on the driver's side). The cab's b pillar also has some pretty good dents in it from contacting the hooks on the headache rack, I doubt this thing went rock crawling.
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May 12, 2018 00:36
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It's really cool you are taking the time to fix this so well. Better than new.
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May 12, 2018 03:07
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It's time for tires yet again on this bastid, and I'm done buying lovely used tires every goddamned year.  Centramatic wheel balancers. cool things that started on heavy duty trucks.  Back to 37s.
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May 25, 2018 22:48
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cursedshitbox posted:
What are the wheel balancers? Like a bolt on tube of fluid or something? Works like the kastein walmart beads poured in a tire? Seems like make one for all kinds of things like trailers, trucks etc. Do you use them because they can't get the big tires balanced tires properly in the first place? Their website doesn't really describe what they do/how they work. e: it does in the individual product pages. Sounds like it is a tube of weights that move around. Do they help? blindjoe fucked around with this message at 23:36 on May 25, 2018 |
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May 25, 2018 23:33
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Yea check out the video on the top right - http://www.centramatic.com/videos.rhtml It's like airsoft pellets but bolt on. Video is pretty cool.
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May 26, 2018 00:23
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Big tires can be a huge pain in the rear end to balance and generally don't stay balanced for long if you do any kind of wheeling.  I told them twice not to balance my poo poo. most of that is from the front tires. (with that many weights, they should have spun the tire 180deg on the wheel and tried again but that is another topic) There's both weights and fluid inside, their explanation is lengthy for what it is. Balance beads in the tire work the same way the centramatics do, but it can take some fiddling to get balance beads setup properly. I wanted a solution to work the first time without hassles. The kit itself came with two different styles of balancer to clear the front calipers and some spacers if needed. My vehicle didnt require the spacers and both styles of balancer cleared the calipers just fine.  (I really look forward to a brake overhaul )  It rides smoother than it did on the worn 35s. They had (likely not enough) beads and would vibrate at highway speeds. Since they were used purchase there was no point in trying to correct it. I noted no differences after the weights were removed. I've worked with the balancers on buses before and they'll make a tired rear end bus on cupping rubber ride decent. crossfit sized rubber @ 31kg/~70lb ea. unmounted, 45kg/~100lb ea mounted. : 
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May 26, 2018 17:04
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I'm back to pester you with more questions! I am having a really hard time finding a kingpin front axle, so I reluctantly changed my search terms to stop excluding ball joint dana 60 axles. I found one nearby for a good price that looks in decent enough condition, for 900... but it doesn't have any of the steering linkages, or the brake calipers. Is there any compatibility between the TTB brake system and the D60? And can the TTB steering linkage be used on a D60?
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May 29, 2018 19:57
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D50HD hubs/lockouts will work on the D60, afaik that's about it. Knuckles are different. 95-97s have larger rotors/different calipers. There's two major types of calipers, bolt on and guide pins. in a previous post you can see that I have guide pin style calipers. the steering linkages are different between TTB and D60. You can get these parts from rockauto. honestly? 05.5+ coil/10.5 swap. sorry about the bolt pattern but 4 wheel discs, coil sprung ride and turning radius. iirc the 07+ has an optional E-locker that just needs 12v to lock. the gears are usually 3.55s though.
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May 30, 2018 02:23
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I completely agree. 05+ superduty axles are by far the best OEM one ton axle set you can buy. Since it's been around 2 decades since they switched to 170mm bolt circle, aftermarket 4x4 wheels in this pattern are not as rare as they used to be. If I wasn't already the owner of an 87 kingpin 60 and a 74 IHC Dana 70, I'd go superduty no question. blindjoe posted:kastein walmart beads poured in a tire? Don't do this. It didn't work out well and they disintegrated into a nasty plastic dust fairly quickly.
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Jun 15, 2018 20:31
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89 kingpin SAS quest continued: Got a kingpin out of a '90 F350 to put in my '89 IDI F250. Going to pick up leaf springs hopefully today, also from an F350 from the same era. I have some questions - I don't have a front sway bar, but I do have a track bar(needs bushings, but I can get those pretty easily) and the track bar mount that bolts to the frame. I am running into a lot of conflicting opinions here - this is mostly a daily driver that I will take into the hills on weekends for camping/shooting/what have you. Sway bar - is this a 100% necessity? My understanding is it reduces body roll, but that's something you'd really just want for something lifted, and I'm not lifting it beyond what a stock F350 would be... right? Second question, track bar - is this a 100% necessity? My understanding is it reduces/eliminates left-and-right movement of the axle, or 'death wobble,' but that isn't necessary for a leaf sprung axle, because the leaf springs serve to locate the axle in all directions. I'd ask in the general question thread but this thread is vehicle appropriate. I hope nobody minds me hijacking the OP's thread to help me out; if there's somewhere else I should post this let me know and I'll head over there. edit: preemptive response - the last time I posted about this, it was recommended that I do a coil spring swap for additional travel, but I believe that requires fabrication and that's beyond both my ability to do myself, and my funds to pay for someone to do it. I'm trying to keep things simple and durable, so just keeping it leafsprung is all I want to do right now. A lift is possible at some point in the future. edit 2: i will also not be insulted if you dogpile those 'understandings' of mine, I just want to do this right the first time and have a safe vehicle. Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Jul 23, 2018 |
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Jul 23, 2018 14:07
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Would a track bar even work with leaf springs? Seems like it would bind up.
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Jul 23, 2018 14:33
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That's what I was thinking, but I'm less sure about the swaybar. From what I can tell I think I can get away without it for now, but if I ended up needing one I could do it later as long as I'm not driving like a crazy person. edit: I'm also looking for torque specs for this job, including leaf spring bolts, so if anyone has any resources for that I'd appreciate a link! I'll look through my Chilton but I'm not optimistic Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Jul 23, 2018 |
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Jul 23, 2018 15:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Would a track bar even work with leaf springs? Seems like it would bind up. It does. The panhard is there to reduce bumpsteer because of the front shackle configuration. It also helps prolong the life of the shackle bushing which is roughly 1/2 the length of the leaf end. (If curious, go back a few pages where the passenger upper shackle had collapsed into the frame from a failed bushing). I've not bothered replacing the panhard or swaybar bushes yet. They could use replacement but until I put real weight behind it, I don't really care. You'll probably be fine without the swaybar...these were intended as towpigs afterall. I've retained both sways and the panhard on mine for two reasons. 1. this thing handles like a farm truck and living in the bay area it needs all the help it can get. 2. it does get used for towpig duties both now and in the future. You're welcome posting here. Tech is tech imo and I post too infrequently. I don't have the torque specs off hand. Hee-haw + 1 small hernia is pretty good. Picked up a water-cooled lincoln precision 185 arc/tig welder last weekend. I'm slowly getting things ready for the bed rebuild.   Getting 15mi/gal on the 37s, 75% highway, 25% city. Nice.
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Jul 23, 2018 17:17
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Okay. I'll order some bushings from rockauto, then. I live in Colorado near the Front Range, so most of the time I'm on flat land or on low rolling hills... and because of the naturally aspirated IDI, whenever I go up on the mountain roads I'm never going terribly fast anyway, so I'll just try to be careful without the sway bar. I'm sure I'll be posting here before I start tearing it all apart, but whenever I do have it apart I'll post some pictures of the process for anyone else interested!
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Jul 23, 2018 18:04
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Bump - for the panhard bar I got some Moog bushings, they're the blue thermoplastic kind. Opinions vary on whether you should grease them, do you have any experience with them? Also, I don't suppose you can help me out with this next question... I'm not sure if I'll be able to keep my current driveshaft. I'm guessing I'll need a different yoke and u joint at the very least, but as far as measurements go, mine currently measures at around 36 inches, but that's just while it's on the truck, not fully compressed. Going off rockauto, a factory F250 with the ZF5 transmission gets a 33" 1/4 fully compressed front driveshaft, and a factory F350 with the same gets a 32" 1/4. Is that one inch difference going to slam into my transfer case? What measurements should I make to figure out if I should spring for a new one/drag one out of a junkyard truck? Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 16:43
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You mean polybushes? they usually come with lube, use it or else it'll squeak. (it'll squeak anyway). the 350s have a CV (double cardan) shaft up front with 1330 Ujoints. The T-case output flange might be different, I've read conflicting stories but it should be easy to source. At ride height the shaft sits at 34.5" center to center. It could potentially crash the shaft into the case. Note that the 250 came with two different front end options too, iirc both had a D50 inner, one with 44 outers, the other with 60 outers. the hub is the givaway.  two radius measurements. one from the leaf mount under the cab to the pinion,(B) second from the t-case yoke to the pinion(C). You'll also need the bumpstop distance to the perch(A). the two arcs will draw the difference. the difference is the length the driveshaft has to expand/contract. To get the difference you use your bumpstop for uptravel, alternatively the shock travel will work for total difference. (good for droop so that you don't pull the shaft apart) Trigonometry is your friend here. This is a very simplified version that'll get some ballpark figures.
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Jul 25, 2018 17:41
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I don't think they're poly, according to internet research, and they didn't come with grease. I'm just worried about if it's a weird proprietary material that grease might degrade it. Automotive ignorance ahoy: on measurement B, I'm guessing you mean the center of the leaf spring eye under the cab, but I don't know where or what you mean by 'pinion.'
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Jul 25, 2018 18:47
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yes on the leaf. Pinion as in differential pinion. I should clarify to measure at the yoke face where the strap bolts through as that's roughly the center mark for your u-joint cap (center-center measurements are done here) and the pinion shaft face will skew your measurements by 1/2' or so.
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Jul 25, 2018 19:51
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 at long last. Now to wait to see what other issues crop up :v I did end up having it taken to a shop, and I'm kind of glad I did. They took their sweet-rear end time but I get the impression I probably either would have screwed it up, or wouldn't have been able to do it in the time I would have allotted. Old driveshaft is disconnected, but I have it just in case I can still end up using it; haven't yet measured. edit: half the reason I had such a hardon for doing this swap was just because there was a squeaking noise at high speeds coming out of something in the TTB axle. I knew I didn't want to dump money into an axle I was going to replace at some point anyway so this whole summer I was chomping at the bit trying to find a D60. Also, factory springs or not, just having new suspension is making a world of difference in comfort when hitting bumps and potholes. Pretty stoked to finish things up, slap some new tires on it, and go have some fun. todo list: rebush rear springs, rebush front and rear leaf shackles, install new driveshaft, get new tires, have welding buddies fab up a mount for a winch, probably a bunch of poo poo I'm completely unaware of Admiral Bosch fucked around with this message at 13:28 on Aug 29, 2018 |
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Aug 29, 2018 13:22
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Nice! good call on knowing when to send it to someone else. did you use 250 springs or 350? Brakes went mushy. full brake overhaul including hydroboost swap.. real update soon. 
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Aug 30, 2018 15:05
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As luck would have it, a guy down in Denver had new manufacture F350 bricknose springs that he had already bushed, so I went and picked those up the day after I got the axle. It rides pretty great for being a big front heavy skateboard.
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Aug 30, 2018 21:21
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cursedshitbox posted:Nice! good call on knowing when to send it to someone else. did you use 250 springs or 350? Do you have a list of stuff you haven't replaced yet?
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Aug 30, 2018 22:07
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Powershift posted:Do you have a list of stuff you haven't replaced yet?
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Aug 30, 2018 22:13
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Powershift posted:Do you have a list of stuff you haven't replaced yet? The engine Honestly brakes are one of those subsystems that are spiteful and will continue to hate gently caress you if you replace one thing at a time. My time is valuable so I'd rather do it once and be done with it. The brakes on this truck have been pretty lovely and around two weeks ago the master cylinder started getting progressively spongier. I'm not gonna gamble with the life of others and a 7000lb truck that won't fuckin' stop.  broken slack adjuster spring on the passenger side.  Pads disintegrating due to oil contamination from a leaking wheel seal and plugged vent line. The seals on the wheel cylinder here were also swollen and likely going to fail soon.   The fronts were in decent shape, but I blunderbussed new semimets, calipers, and hoses at it anyway. rotors were reused.  Passenger side reconditioned.  This ultrafilthy gently caress took a combo of diesel and acetone to clean.  Leaking two-piece class8 style wheel seal. As far as I know they're original to the truck, they put up quite a fight but were replaced. Air chisel came out for this one...  Found a used hydroboost on ebay for $lol$ as the ad was poo poo and not very specific. sure I'll gamble.  the pedal pin needs to be moved up from the vacuum brake 3.5" pivot to pin center to 2.75" pivot to pin center. A simple grind and reweld worked fine.  I couldn't source a superduty or F-superduty reservoir without a week lead time :eyeroll: so I drilled a return into the nylon reservoir, threaded in a barb fitting with a washer and seal, then turned down a brass fitting on the lathe to secure it. The pressure hoses are standard F-superduty hoses. The booster works well and the accumulator holds a charge. fuckyea score. The vacuum line was plugged off, the pump now only runs the dash vent controls, when it dies I'll go to a mercedes vacuum lock pump and delete it from the engine.  This older ford has been sitting for a while for sale, looks decent imo aside from the roof rack. Fucker feels like it has airbrakes now. I'm pretty happy with the project.
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Aug 31, 2018 17:15
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