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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Watch Luke Towans vid on home etching. You can get good results and get the exact shapes you want, but it's a monumental pain the rear end for such little result. That's actually the video that reminded me of this! I mainly want to do this for fun, so I'm ok with it being a pain in the rear end (to a point). Where's the fun in buying a hobby thing when I can spend 5x as much plus a bunch of my time to make it myself? In any case, it would probably be less of a pain in the rear end if I used a bigger sheet of brass than in Luke's video. Or I guess I could waste an equal amount of time getting into resin casting...
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 04:17 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 17:47 |
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So this is probably a stupid question, but my problem is there's so much information and so many different techniques out there I'm not sure where to start. I'm into model trains (HO Scale) but I'm a member of a club and my primary interest is running trains, not building models. That said, I want them to look good, and I love the look of properly weathered models. I'm not happy with the results from just dry-brushing some browns and blacks onto things as "dirt" and want to be able to achieve some reasonably realistic looking weathering without spending hours on each car. I have a 35 car coal train I'd like to start with as each car was only about $15 so they're a relatively painless place to get some experience before I try an expensive locomotive. Can you recommend some good basic weathering guides? I'm not trying to achieve diorama quality here as these are models which get handled and transported, I just want to make them look somewhat realistic. I don't want to get an airbrush (yet) so something oriented towards hand painting/chalks/powders is what I'm looking for. Alternatively just tell me to do my own research, but I was hoping you guys might know some good places to get started.
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 05:20 |
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:So this is probably a stupid question, but my problem is there's so much information and so many different techniques out there I'm not sure where to start. This is what got me started with weathering https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLGC1fmQp8LDu9n4VN3yvQhBx4yZSdDiJa But pastels is also a good starting point, buy some cheap ones and isopropyl alcohol and go hog wild. If you don't like the result it cleans right of.
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 08:10 |
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Speaking of weathering rolling stock, here's a few I've been working on lately: This one is way, way overdone but oh well. All of these were weathered with washes, airbrushing, and some by brush for the chipped paint. I'd say the washes alone are 75% of the weathering. The graffiti is a mix of hand painting and airbrushing.
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 20:44 |
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Die O Rama
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 20:49 |
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Fish and Chimps posted:I definitely remember your stuff and lamented the day you stopped posting. I'm really looking forward to your Chieftains. Cheers dude, I'm finally getting a small amount of time for some painting and modelling. Feeling pretty rusty mind! Got the panzerputty out and layed the green down on the tanks. Looking quite light and chalky at the minute but the panel shading is there and the washes and weathering will hopefully ground them in the real world a bit more. I think light colours and contrast are better at this scale, I find othewise things are just a green blob. Opinions?
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 20:51 |
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Hoyota posted:One rail is connected to positive, and the other, negative, the locomotive has metal wheels that finish the circuit. For psychological reasons I'm trying to repair a HO trainset that broke when I was six or so. It lost one of the little metal track connectors and broke the circuit, and I guess I want to make sure this was the cause by fixing it?
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 21:04 |
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Finished Captain America. There are still a lot of parts I'm dissatisfied with, but I feel like I've already repainted every square inch of the figure at least twice, so might as well just cut my losses and call it done. Full album I have some very specific complaints about the engineering of this kit. The halves of the arms, torso, etc. have massive seams when you glue them together, and even after a ton of filling and sanding you can see where they are on the finished model. The missing scales on the shoulder isn't a result of me sanding too much, the detail is simply not there to begin with. The foundation where the leg meets the ground is very poor. There's only a plastic tab holding is initially, which snapped off very quickly. I had to reposition the figure so that the whole heel and a part of the sole makes contact with the ground for it to stay on properly. The weird position of the right leg offsets the balance of the figure so that it falls over really easily, if it was behind the Captain, then it would probably stand up better. I also don't really like the splash. In retrospect, I should have filled in the slots for it, since the model looked quite a bit better without it, and you could actually see the puddle (that turned out surprisingly well) from the front. One other huge mistake: there is an odd number of stripes on the uniform, so you have to choose one to split in half (thankfully they aren't all the same size, so it's not noticeable) when painting. Overall I'd give the kit a solid 7/10. Its age shows, but with a bit of work and hindsight the result can be quite good. I probably won't pass up one of these kits in the future if I see it at a reasonable price.
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# ? Sep 2, 2018 21:10 |
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Where can I get a decent model kit of the Galaxy Class USS Enterprise NCC-1701-D from Star Trek: The Next Generation? All I can find is the “clear” version and if that’s like gunpla clear it’s really not what I’m looking for. I feel like it’s a popular enough ship there has to be a kit somewhere readily available.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 05:53 |
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what is gunpla clear? regardless looking at scalemates it seems that only the 2016 re-issue of the AMT enterprise-d is clear so if you get one of the slightly older editions you should be good.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 06:22 |
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https://www.amazon.com/Star-Generation-U-S-S-Enterprise-AMT/dp/B001LZR2EA ?
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 06:22 |
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This might help you with figuring out what your possibilities are: https://www.scalemates.com/topics/topic.php?id=11008
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 07:12 |
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George Zimmer posted:Speaking of weathering rolling stock, here's a few I've been working on lately: I love these and I love how subversive this approach to modelling rail stock is in the "let's recreate the 1950s" world of model trains. In other news, my wife and I arrived in Vancouver yesterday to discover that the things we shipped from Anchorage were waiting for us. I picked them up today and found that the box containing my Bluenose model had a yellow stripe of customs tape attached to it-- CBSA had taken a look inside to ensure I wasn't smuggling something or whatever. I was pretty worried, but those fears were unfounded. Nothing was broken and the model was in good shape.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 08:05 |
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George Zimmer posted:Speaking of weathering rolling stock, here's a few I've been working on lately: It's not actually much worse than every SOO line car I've ever seen
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 08:16 |
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Nebakenezzer posted:For psychological reasons I'm trying to repair a HO trainset that broke when I was six or so. It lost one of the little metal track connectors and broke the circuit, and I guess I want to make sure this was the cause by fixing it? Yes that is most likely the reason, you can buy a small pack of connectors for less than 10 dollars. Make sure to clean the track as well, a light scrub along the tops of the rails with some fine sandpaper will help to conduct electricity to the locomotive.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 10:13 |
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Amen. By the way the Shipways Longboat is down to $40 on Amazon, so if my wife doesn't get it for me for our upcoming anniversary, I'll be buying it soon myself
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 12:49 |
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Taintrunner posted:Where can I get a decent model kit of the Galaxy Class USS Enterprise NCC-1701-D from Star Trek: The Next Generation? All I can find is the “clear” version and if that’s like gunpla clear it’s really not what I’m looking for. I feel like it’s a popular enough ship there has to be a kit somewhere readily available. The point is that if you want to include a light kit you can mask the windows or scrape paint off of them rather than drill god knows how many holes. This is how they did the Enterprise models in the show, or at least some of them.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 15:27 |
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What glue should I use to make a wooden boat model? I got this kit for my birthday and I've never made anything like this before, and I see conflicting info. Honestly I dont know what I need or where to start Latina 22135 1/41 Virginia American Schooner, 22135 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PUQ56C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YYuJBbHTXCFHN
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 16:01 |
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Fearless posted:I love these and I love how subversive this approach to modelling rail stock is in the "let's recreate the 1950s" world of model trains. Thank you! I was surprised when I found out so many people in model railroading get really bent out of shape about it. I work for one of the Class I's, and we actually have a G scale boxcar with some custom graffiti on display in one of our conference rooms. It's long since been accepted as just another aspect of modern railroading. I don't think I've ever met someone in the industry who genuinely cared. Jonny Nox posted:It's not actually much worse than every SOO line car I've ever seen Thanks! They are in notoriously bad shape, I was hoping to capture some of that. I always thought white was a poor color choice for rolling stock. I don't really post my tagged cars in too many places (see first comment), but this one I especially don't post that often.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 16:03 |
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George Zimmer posted:Thank you! I was surprised when I found out so many people in model railroading get really bent out of shape about it. I work for one of the Class I's, and we actually have a G scale boxcar with some custom graffiti on display in one of our conference rooms. It's long since been accepted as just another aspect of modern railroading. I don't think I've ever met someone in the industry who genuinely cared. I for one would like to laugh at examples of model railroad nerds getting their panties in a twist about modelling graffiti. Have a link to a forum or something?
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 16:43 |
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George Zimmer posted:Thank you! I was surprised when I found out so many people in model railroading get really bent out of shape about it. I work for one of the Class I's, and we actually have a G scale boxcar with some custom graffiti on display in one of our conference rooms. It's long since been accepted as just another aspect of modern railroading. I don't think I've ever met someone in the industry who genuinely cared. On a scale from one to 1488, how racist are the replies? Or is it just "gently caress you for not building a monument to the 50s"?
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 16:44 |
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Fish and Chimps posted:I for one would like to laugh at examples of model railroad nerds getting their panties in a twist about modelling graffiti. Have a link to a forum or something? Your wish is my etc. Here's the resukt of a quick google: http://cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/87119.aspx Fun starts halfway down:
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 16:49 |
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Phi230 posted:What glue should I use to make a wooden boat model? I got this kit for my birthday and I've never made anything like this before, and I see conflicting info. Honestly I dont know what I need or where to start I have had great results with one of the Gorilla wood glues and a thickish, gel CA glue like one of the loctites (though it needn't be that brand). Good luck on the kit and I very highly recommend taking your time and constantly rechecking the instructions as you go. These models do not go together like a plastic kit and you will spend a surprising amount of time sanding various things in the early stages of construction. Seriously, don't rush yourself and as Locator or Greyhawk once said, treat each piece of rigging or pair of planks as a project in their own right. George Zimmer posted:Thank you! I was surprised when I found out so many people in model railroading get really bent out of shape about it. I work for one of the Class I's, and we actually have a G scale boxcar with some custom graffiti on display in one of our conference rooms. It's long since been accepted as just another aspect of modern railroading. I don't think I've ever met someone in the industry who genuinely cared. When I am ancient and settled, I intend to build a layout that is a monument to post-industrial urban decay as a callback to my childhood. Grafitti'd cars rolling past rundown victorian neighbourhoods, cracked and potholed pavement, bars and payday loan centers, peelers and dealers all over the place. Fearless fucked around with this message at 17:39 on Sep 3, 2018 |
# ? Sep 3, 2018 17:35 |
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Jonny Nox posted:Your wish is my etc. Every single one of those pricks has a shaft the size of a telephone pole up their rear.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 18:15 |
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Fearless posted:I have had great results with one of the Gorilla wood glues and a thickish, gel CA glue like one of the loctites (though it needn't be that brand). Good luck on the kit and I very highly recommend taking your time and constantly rechecking the instructions as you go. These models do not go together like a plastic kit and you will spend a surprising amount of time sanding various things in the early stages of construction. Are there any videos I can watch on how to do rigging?
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 18:18 |
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Phi230 posted:Are there any videos I can watch on how to do rigging? Yep. There are a bunch on YouTube and there are some excellent resources on the Model Shipworld forums too. Rigging really, really rewards patience and pacing-- if you find yourself getting frustrated, walk away and do something different because man oh man that is how you mess things up (I learned this the hard way). The first big hurdle you have will be building the hull, though. This is where attention to detail and taking the time to properly fair everything saves you a pile of misery later on. I've heard that people are really intimidated by planking, but for me I think it is my favourite part of the process.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 18:26 |
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Fish and Chimps posted:I for one would like to laugh at examples of model railroad nerds getting their panties in a twist about modelling graffiti. Have a link to a forum or something? Johnny Nox has a good one, but I was part of a Facebook group that banned a whole slew of members en masse because they posted tagged cars. One guy in particular made really good ones and sold them, so he made a new Facebook group where people can post anything they want. The guy's name is Rick Dakota Kempf if you're curious about his stuff. Blue Footed Booby posted:On a scale from one to 1488, how racist are the replies? Or is it just "gently caress you for not building a monument to the 50s"? The word "thug" is prominently used. I'd put the racism level between a baby boomer saying "those people" and your grandparent that still uses the term "colored". Fearless posted:
Lance Mindheim makes layouts that are nice and gritty, like real railroads are. I really dig his stuff: I've also found a couple of folks who make stuff like strip bars, run down liquor stores, etc. The Pleasantville layouts just aren't as cool!
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 19:57 |
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Fearless posted:When I am ancient and settled, I intend to build a layout that is a monument to post-industrial urban decay as a callback to my childhood. Grafitti'd cars rolling past rundown victorian neighbourhoods, cracked and potholed pavement, bars and payday loan centers, peelers and dealers all over the place. on them thar internets I once saw a series of photos of a layout of the NY elevated train during the disintegration of brooklyn or similar
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 20:02 |
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George Zimmer posted:
There's a really weird subculture in model railroading that put people topless, nude, or loving in all their layouts.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 21:01 |
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Disgruntled Bovine posted:So this is probably a stupid question, but my problem is there's so much information and so many different techniques out there I'm not sure where to start. Always, always, always work from a picture to replicate wear/weathering patterns. E: Circus City Graphics on FB does some good modern graffiti: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQosqlz48Js Boomer The Cannon fucked around with this message at 21:17 on Sep 3, 2018 |
# ? Sep 3, 2018 21:10 |
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Boomer The Cannon posted:Always, always, always work from a picture to replicate wear/weathering patterns. gently caress anyone who says that a mural like that on a rail car isn't art.
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# ? Sep 3, 2018 22:47 |
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God drat, this looks exactly like the warehouse district a mile from my office, palm trees and all.
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# ? Sep 4, 2018 21:07 |
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Phi230 posted:What glue should I use to make a wooden boat model? I got this kit for my birthday and I've never made anything like this before, and I see conflicting info. Honestly I dont know what I need or where to start I use probably 99% good old fashioned yellow wood glue or basic white glue (Elmers school glue) depending on whether I'm worried about the yellow glue showing. Brand is really unimportant, but I use original Titebond yellow wood glue. I suggest avoiding waterproof wood glue, as when you make a mistake (you will), it's really great being able to soak the parts in water to de-bond them without messing up anything else. You'll also want to get a medium CA (superglue) for using when you need to glue a brass/cast part to wood. That's the only thing I use CA glue for, I use wood glue (or rarely white glue) for every wood to wood bond. For rigging a Medium Matte (paint) is great for securing knots and being completely invisible when it dries, but it will be a while before you have to worry about that. As Fearless said - getting the hull right is your immediate hurdle, and probably overall the most important part of the build. Taking your time getting the hull shape right, and properly fairing your bulkheads (and making sure they are perfectly straight when you glue them!) will pay off in the end results more than pretty much anything else. It's one of the downsides of wooden ships - the most important step is also the first one you have to do!
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# ? Sep 5, 2018 13:50 |
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I had to re-align one of the frames on my Bluenose build when I started planking the hull. I didn't realize that it was a couple of mm out of square until the first couple of layers of hull planks were on it. Happily, I was able to pop the planks off fairly easily and fix things.
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# ? Sep 5, 2018 22:00 |
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Oh hey, looks like Zoukei-Mura is gonna release a 1/72 + 1/144 Ho 229 combo this year. http://www.zoukeimura.co.jp/en/sentiment/oyajiblog_100.html
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# ? Sep 7, 2018 09:25 |
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My mentor has been after me to do some terrain or diorama, so I tried my hand with some desert scenery. Pretty happy with how it came out; excuse the Tiger; that was one of the first models I "finished."
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# ? Sep 10, 2018 15:53 |
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anyone got tips for custom decal printing? I'm trying to get white text with a transparent background. but since you can't print white ink, i've been trying to print the text on white decal paper and then cut out the letters which is less than ideal. any suggestions or is it just a matter of patience with scissors and an exacto knife
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# ? Sep 10, 2018 17:06 |
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Can you do very light grey? I think realistically you will have to do some cutting, regardless.
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# ? Sep 10, 2018 19:00 |
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EdsTeioh posted:My mentor has been after me to do some terrain or diorama, so I tried my hand with some desert scenery. Pretty happy with how it came out; excuse the Tiger; that was one of the first models I "finished." I really really like that base. Try adding a few small grass tufts here and there perhaps?
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# ? Sep 10, 2018 20:30 |
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# ? May 23, 2024 17:47 |
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big_g posted:I really really like that base. Thank you! I did add some dead grass/weeds in 2 spots if you look closely. I was going to do some more, but couldn't find my flocking. :-(
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# ? Sep 10, 2018 20:35 |